Currently have have a 700w amp (4 channel) connected to all my speakers. I have 5.25 rockfords in the front and 6x9 rockfords in the back. Only problem is that I get a lot of vibration from the front speakers when I'm listening to music with generous amounts of bass. I was just wondering if dynamat really works as good as they say, and how hard it is to install. Also, is it better to just use it around the speaker, or whole door? THINK
Replies (15)
cplkittle on 12/6/2004 13:17:37
Dynamat does work, and I tell you that as a friend, not as a retailer. I have installed it on many cars and trucks, and it does really work. What I would suggest is if you purchase just the speaker kit, nip the corners off of the square piece, and listen to the door panel with the music turned up. use the small triangle pieces you cut off to spot deaden any remaining rattles. I will tell you that you can get it cheaper from a mom and pop store than you can from circuit city, tweeters, or best buy. MSRP on dynamat is more than double the dealer cost, at a mom and pop store you can make an offer of around 60-70% of the tagged price and they will probably sell it to you.
speaker kit (2pcs 10" x 10")
MSRP origional 14.95
MSRP extreme 19.95
door kit (10sq ft total - 4 12x36 sheets)
MSRP origional 59.95
MSRP extreme 89.95
Intrigue on 12/6/2004 13:30:34
Thank you for your help. I went to Best Buy (to look.. I stopped buying car products there) and they were selling the door kit for $85!!! I looked online and found it much cheaper, but just wanted to double check with someone who knows. I might just go right to the door kit, as my make of car isn't known for its solid structure.
Another question though. I don't notice any vibrations from my rear speakers except in extreme situations when they're taking on lots of bass. Would a speaker kit help reduce distortion from them?
swez on 12/6/2004 14:16:27
May want to add a sub and amp for bass only here. These smaller speakers are not really designed to give a lot of solid bass performance. Once they get to a certain point with power and low frequencies, the motor system gets sloppy and the cones go out of control. Hense, lots of distortion.
If the speakers are in sealed (air tight) enclosures, they will sound better and take more power too.
Swez
Intrigue on 12/8/2004 23:24:07
Well, I'd like to get an amp but at the same time I'm on a budget. Right now I do have a 4-channel 700w amp (60x4 RMS), but I'm not sure that my 8 gauge wire will handle subs (from what I was told). If it's possible for me to run the subs and rear speakers with what I have then I'd definetly go for it. Any input on this situation would be great.
Here's the amp I have right now if there's any more information that's needed.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-armh1XO3G1B/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&I=489AP740
swez on 12/8/2004 23:32:33
What many guys do here, is to bridge the rear channels of the amp to power a sub. They run the front channels to front speakers for more power and clarity up front and power the rear speakers (rear fill) off the rear HU amps.
There's plenty of power for a single sub off this amp when bridged. (180 Wrms @ 4 ohms) The front's will get 60 x 2 and rear speakers get whatever the HU can reproduce.
No extra power wires are needed here. Just a few wiring changes and a sub is added. Not a big expense if you shop hard.
Swez
Intrigue on 12/8/2004 23:53:58
Thank you. So your saying to run a single sub and the rear speakers off both the 3rd and 4th channel. I never thought of doing that, but that'll be fine for me. Any suggestion on a sub I should choose? I have rockford fosgates right now for my speakers, and most likely would go with something like this...
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-armh1XO3G1B/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=67600&I=575P110S4
ttocs on 12/9/2004 02:24:01
start by simply crossing over the front speakers? Take the bass out of them and I bet you will think it sounds better. Start by spending $5, then move up...........
Intrigue on 12/9/2004 03:38:28
Never thought of doing that either. I'll give it a try and see how it sounds. Thanks.
swez on 12/9/2004 07:23:50
Yes, take this one step at a time and add on when you can.
The sub mentioned (Rockford Fosgate P110S4
Punch Stage 1 10" 4-ohm component subwoofer) is a very good fit for that amp. It is small in terms of box space needed and enough power handling to get the job done.
As ttocs mentioned, you may wish to experiment with that amp filtering network. The front speakers are generally good in the 80-100 Hz and up range. Start there with your HPF for channels 1&2. Depending on the settings you are using now, this may resolve several of your noise (door panel rattles) from the front speakers.
As for the sub, set the LPF on channels 3&4 to about the same 80-100 Hz. The trick is to blend all your interior speakers to get a pleasing effect w/o overdriving them into distortion. The majority of your mid/highs will come from the front stage. The rear speakers will give us ambient fill. (full range or just midbass) The sub brings in the lower 2 octaves of low end audio to complete the package. This may require some tweaking to get optimal performance out of each component in the system. We can walk you through that, once you get there.
Swez
PS Read this DIY tip on tweaking the system for optimal performance. If you are using a HU that has all RCA lines, disregard the part that refers to LOC's.
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t3
Intrigue on 12/9/2004 14:51:39
Wow, cutting the low frequencies from the front speakers really did make a difference. I kinda wish I did that earlier... The vibrations stopped so that made me happy. I'm still going to get the sub, but now I'm less eager to get them and won't try to spend money I don't have. Once again, I can't thank you guys enough.
swez on 12/9/2004 18:13:54
Can "massage" the HPF on the front speakers until you get some lows, but not enough to create rattles and such. I would not suggest going much lower than 50-60 Hz. This will give you good midbass performance, but not to the point of stressing your 5.25" woofers.
Also, if your rear speakers are now amped off the rear channels of that amp, consider dropping the HPF on these speakers to ~40-50 Hz and see how they sound. This will give you some bass... but not like having a real sub in the back.
Swez
Intrigue on 12/14/2004 10:03:11
Adding some lows definitely made a difference to the front speakers and the speakers still don't cause any vibrations. Eventually I'll get a sub and I'll be sure to come here for help. Till then, thank you for all your help.
ttocs on 12/14/2004 10:28:05
do not over do it on bass boost and bass controls on the deck. Bass boost is normally little more then a distortion switch....
Intrigue on 12/14/2004 10:30:50
I figured that out the other day. I turned up the bass boost a little bit but when I turned the volume up it was a little too much so I set it back to where it was. I'll have to wait until I get a sub to get the bass I'm looking for.
swez on 12/14/2004 12:47:12
Good work... am glad we could help you get a better result than when you first started. It's all about getting full performance from what you already have, without pushing the HU, amps or speakers beyond thier design limits.
On the right track,
Swez
Replies (15)
cplkittle on 12/6/2004 13:17:37
Dynamat does work, and I tell you that as a friend, not as a retailer. I have installed it on many cars and trucks, and it does really work. What I would suggest is if you purchase just the speaker kit, nip the corners off of the square piece, and listen to the door panel with the music turned up. use the small triangle pieces you cut off to spot deaden any remaining rattles. I will tell you that you can get it cheaper from a mom and pop store than you can from circuit city, tweeters, or best buy. MSRP on dynamat is more than double the dealer cost, at a mom and pop store you can make an offer of around 60-70% of the tagged price and they will probably sell it to you.
speaker kit (2pcs 10" x 10")
MSRP origional 14.95
MSRP extreme 19.95
door kit (10sq ft total - 4 12x36 sheets)
MSRP origional 59.95
MSRP extreme 89.95
Intrigue on 12/6/2004 13:30:34
Thank you for your help. I went to Best Buy (to look.. I stopped buying car products there) and they were selling the door kit for $85!!! I looked online and found it much cheaper, but just wanted to double check with someone who knows. I might just go right to the door kit, as my make of car isn't known for its solid structure.
Another question though. I don't notice any vibrations from my rear speakers except in extreme situations when they're taking on lots of bass. Would a speaker kit help reduce distortion from them?
swez on 12/6/2004 14:16:27
May want to add a sub and amp for bass only here. These smaller speakers are not really designed to give a lot of solid bass performance. Once they get to a certain point with power and low frequencies, the motor system gets sloppy and the cones go out of control. Hense, lots of distortion.
If the speakers are in sealed (air tight) enclosures, they will sound better and take more power too.
Swez
Intrigue on 12/8/2004 23:24:07
Well, I'd like to get an amp but at the same time I'm on a budget. Right now I do have a 4-channel 700w amp (60x4 RMS), but I'm not sure that my 8 gauge wire will handle subs (from what I was told). If it's possible for me to run the subs and rear speakers with what I have then I'd definetly go for it. Any input on this situation would be great.
Here's the amp I have right now if there's any more information that's needed.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-armh1XO3G1B/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&I=489AP740
swez on 12/8/2004 23:32:33
What many guys do here, is to bridge the rear channels of the amp to power a sub. They run the front channels to front speakers for more power and clarity up front and power the rear speakers (rear fill) off the rear HU amps.
There's plenty of power for a single sub off this amp when bridged. (180 Wrms @ 4 ohms) The front's will get 60 x 2 and rear speakers get whatever the HU can reproduce.
No extra power wires are needed here. Just a few wiring changes and a sub is added. Not a big expense if you shop hard.
Swez
Intrigue on 12/8/2004 23:53:58
Thank you. So your saying to run a single sub and the rear speakers off both the 3rd and 4th channel. I never thought of doing that, but that'll be fine for me. Any suggestion on a sub I should choose? I have rockford fosgates right now for my speakers, and most likely would go with something like this...
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-armh1XO3G1B/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=67600&I=575P110S4
ttocs on 12/9/2004 02:24:01
start by simply crossing over the front speakers? Take the bass out of them and I bet you will think it sounds better. Start by spending $5, then move up...........
Intrigue on 12/9/2004 03:38:28
Never thought of doing that either. I'll give it a try and see how it sounds. Thanks.
swez on 12/9/2004 07:23:50
Yes, take this one step at a time and add on when you can.
The sub mentioned (Rockford Fosgate P110S4
Punch Stage 1 10" 4-ohm component subwoofer) is a very good fit for that amp. It is small in terms of box space needed and enough power handling to get the job done.
As ttocs mentioned, you may wish to experiment with that amp filtering network. The front speakers are generally good in the 80-100 Hz and up range. Start there with your HPF for channels 1&2. Depending on the settings you are using now, this may resolve several of your noise (door panel rattles) from the front speakers.
As for the sub, set the LPF on channels 3&4 to about the same 80-100 Hz. The trick is to blend all your interior speakers to get a pleasing effect w/o overdriving them into distortion. The majority of your mid/highs will come from the front stage. The rear speakers will give us ambient fill. (full range or just midbass) The sub brings in the lower 2 octaves of low end audio to complete the package. This may require some tweaking to get optimal performance out of each component in the system. We can walk you through that, once you get there.
Swez
PS Read this DIY tip on tweaking the system for optimal performance. If you are using a HU that has all RCA lines, disregard the part that refers to LOC's.
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t3
Intrigue on 12/9/2004 14:51:39
Wow, cutting the low frequencies from the front speakers really did make a difference. I kinda wish I did that earlier... The vibrations stopped so that made me happy. I'm still going to get the sub, but now I'm less eager to get them and won't try to spend money I don't have. Once again, I can't thank you guys enough.
swez on 12/9/2004 18:13:54
Can "massage" the HPF on the front speakers until you get some lows, but not enough to create rattles and such. I would not suggest going much lower than 50-60 Hz. This will give you good midbass performance, but not to the point of stressing your 5.25" woofers.
Also, if your rear speakers are now amped off the rear channels of that amp, consider dropping the HPF on these speakers to ~40-50 Hz and see how they sound. This will give you some bass... but not like having a real sub in the back.
Swez
Intrigue on 12/14/2004 10:03:11
Adding some lows definitely made a difference to the front speakers and the speakers still don't cause any vibrations. Eventually I'll get a sub and I'll be sure to come here for help. Till then, thank you for all your help.
ttocs on 12/14/2004 10:28:05
do not over do it on bass boost and bass controls on the deck. Bass boost is normally little more then a distortion switch....
Intrigue on 12/14/2004 10:30:50
I figured that out the other day. I turned up the bass boost a little bit but when I turned the volume up it was a little too much so I set it back to where it was. I'll have to wait until I get a sub to get the bass I'm looking for.
swez on 12/14/2004 12:47:12
Good work... am glad we could help you get a better result than when you first started. It's all about getting full performance from what you already have, without pushing the HU, amps or speakers beyond thier design limits.
On the right track,
Swez
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