hi
achiving the a very good sound imaging in your car . .. is done by the front speakers in the front ...... in my car the front speakers are installed in the cover of the side door not in the door it self .. this causes alot of ratlling ..
so from that i prefer make a kick panels made from wood ..
for my ALPINE SPR-176A COMPS
need help.
Replies (32)
P0werLifter on 12/1/2004 01:18:42
So what exactly is your question? Are your inquiring on how to build kick panels? or how will kick panels adjust your stereo imaging?
Most kick panels are built using fiberglass and molted into the existing interior paneling, or built custom with glass molding to the interior. Wood would not be the best option here.
As far as Imaging is concerned, Adding Kickpanels is night and day comparing it to stock locations. Kick Panels are well worth the $$ or the time building them. You might wanna check out Q-logic Kickpanels, they have tons of vehicles they build them for.
only_tuning on 12/1/2004 16:08:45
lets us say my concern on imagning is 70 % and looks 30 %......
so i'll need from you the two answers ..... how to build kick panels? and how to make a better sound imaging?
i don't want to use fiber glass .... i prefer using flexiglass ..but will the kick panels be in an small enclouser or free air ...... and which is better in SQ and wont hurt my Alpine components SPR-176A
THANKS
P0werLifter on 12/2/2004 01:43:27
i am unfamiliar with the term "flexiglass". I have never seen kick panels build with plain wood, all the ones i have seen are built using fiberglass to mold to the countours of the car, and to be able to position the speaker in the manner to provide the best imaging for that particular automobile.
You might want to check out q logic kickpanes on cardomain.com and see if they have any for your car.
A small enclosure will help with the low end of the driver and provide better response then free air. Neither free air, nor sealed will hurt your components.
speakerman3 on 12/2/2004 15:43:34
Are you referring to plexiglass or acrylic? I can imagine building the baffle (mounting area for the speakers) out of plexiglass with fiberglass contoured to hold everything together, but it seems like well done fiberglass would be just as pretty and easier.
Chris
only_tuning on 12/2/2004 16:10:57
ok so can the experts her guide to do step-by-step to do kick panels for my car .....
i checked car domain they don't have kickpanels for my car ..
thanks
P0werLifter on 12/2/2004 21:12:34
I can help you, but pictures give a much better description of what to do. heres a link of one that was built but make sure u aim the woofer in a manner upwards towards the seats rather than to the sides. This will provide better stereo imaging.
http://web.njit.edu/~cas1383/proj/kickpanels/index.htm
If you have questions feel free to ask, pictures speak a thousand words and i plan on building a set for my truck in the near future (i have Q-logic but i want to experiment) and i plan to due a tutorial for it once im finished.
P0werLifter on 12/2/2004 21:23:10
BTW 4got to add..when using fiberglass make sure you do it in a well vented area and i reccomend using a respirator to filture the fumes. Also get a bunch of latex gloves, and throw away paint brushes.
Ive also found out that the fiberglass from a marine/boating store is of higher quality and usually cheaper than the stuff you buy at a hardware store. Also be patient, fiberglassing techniques take time, its not a fast process by any means and experimentation is required to find your own techniques GRIN
only_tuning on 12/4/2004 01:51:43
ok that's cool ..... i need fom you to list me the materials need to make the kick panels ....... as you mentioned the i bettter get these from marine/boating store ........ i also what to paint them ..
i understand 60 % of the job till now ... need step-by-step i want to make it look like a professional peice of work ...
according to the link you gave me i noticed something .... pic number 7.8 .. when i put the glass foem is it only buy the brush or i need to after puting glass foem i put something so make it solid and look like pic number 9 ..
does the thickness of the kick panels affect the SQ .. ????
and how will i make them well fitted to the carpet side ..?????
THINK
P0werLifter on 12/4/2004 03:03:27
Alrighty sounds good, at least you have a basic understandnig right now. Now lets get down to business,
Materials/ Tools
-Fiberglass Chop Matt (doesnt matter what thickness, i prefer 6oz)
-Fiberglass Resin
-Catalyst (aka. Hardner)
-Plenty of Paint brushes (buy the very cheap ones about 3" width)
-A fairly low mixing bucket (to hold the resin and mix it in)
-A respirator
-Masking Tape, plastic tarp
-Box of Latex Gloves
-Stretchy material (an old T-shirt should work- Or something with a polyester blend that will soak up resin and can stretch)
-Bondo
-Primer
-Paint
-Sanding Paper 80,120, 220 Grits
-Sander
I think thats all for materials now on to your question.
What you dont see in the picture is in the area where he taped/aluminum foiled off (the area where the kick panels back and base were going) he layed down chop matt. The easiest way to do this is once you have it taped off and you know where its going to be, lay down some 3m spray glue, let it tack up for 2minutes then lay down ur chop matt all over covering the whole area where the kickpanel bottom/back is going to be.
Next, you pour in some resin (not to much, a little goes along way when doing chop matt) into your bucket, and add the catalyst to it (make sure to read the directions to it, or ask the guys at the marine shop they'll know). Mix that catalyst in with the resin, then with your pain brush, start applying it all over the chop matt making sure you really soak it up (make sure there is NO white anywhere on the matt, once its soaked the matt will become semi-clear). Do this to the whole matt. (Note: This is messy so make sure everything is taped and covered in the area your working in,,and make sure ur wearing gloves/respirator, and long sleeve shirt)
Once everything is soaked and still in the position you want it, go inside and let it dry. If you did it correctly it should only take about 20-30minutes b4 its hard enough for you to remove out of the car, and strip off the tape, foil etc. If you need to, apply more chop matt and resin in the manner i talked about above to provide more stability to it.
then once thats dry, put it back in the car to make sure it fits correctly, then trace out the area you want it in as the tutorial dude. then cut ..BAM theres your base.
Now..on to your second question, as long as the fiberglass is rigid enough to hold the speakers up nice, and it doesnt flex, this will be sufficient. It doesnt take much fiberglass to make a very strong rigid base and back, Thickness will not affect SQ just make sure you have enough room for the speaker to mount and not hit anything.
As far as making it well fitted to the carpet side, im not quite sure what you mean by that, can you be more specific in your question?
-Jason
swez on 12/4/2004 09:40:29
Very interesting project you guys have going here. I think he means the carpeting at the floor and foot well, as it rises up to the fire wall.
Also, aiming the MB drivers and tweeters is key to good SQ. A good target to aim at, will be the headliner, centered between the seats. May have to use some reference stings to guide you in the aiming process. The tweeters and MB drivers should be in parallel paths, up to the headliner focal point. A bit tougher to do on the driver's side kick panel due to steering wheel and such.
Keep up the good work guys!
Swez
P0werLifter on 12/4/2004 16:17:04
Thanks Swez, Alright to answer your question if I understood it right, the fiberglass will mold perfectly to the floor countours as long as you press it in firmly and resin it up. When you wrap the material around the speaker mounting rings, and around the bottom your going to hold it in place with some glue or staples and let the resin dry and adhere it all together to make one solid piece.
Once its dry you'll trim away the excess on the bottom/top/sides to where it will fit flat on the floor. Then allz ya gotta do is sand, bondo, sand, paint and whammy...theres ur kick panels. Make sure you aim the woofer/tweeter in the correct position for proper imaging as Swez and myself have described above.
only_tuning on 12/5/2004 01:49:32
many thanks for your help .... that's hell alot of information i'll try to be carefull with details you mentioned ... but more thing i didn't understand is ... after everthing is done and fiberglass kickpanels are ready to be used ......... how will i fit the kickpanels excatly tight and make sure that they wont come out even if they were shaped on the foot step side of the driver and passenger side.
do i have to stick the fiber from the iner side or from the out side and will it break ..
P0werLifter on 12/5/2004 04:43:53
Now that my friend is the simple part of this project GRIN. Assuming everything is molded and formed correctly, (even if its not perfect) alls you gotta do is...set the kickpanel in the mounting location (dont put in the 6.5" Mid or whatever driver is going in yet). Predrill a hole through the fiberglass into the metal of the car. Then screw in a couple sheet metal screws etc. GRIN. Whammy, done and mounted, with the fiberglass screwed into the metal that kick panel wont be going anywhere in a hurry HAPPY
Any more questions?
ttocs on 12/6/2004 07:45:35
werd.............
http://www.sounddomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=164608
only_tuning on 12/7/2004 00:40:01
car domain web site is really cool ...
but how will i aim the components .. because the driver side is kind of different than the passenger side .. it's hard to make them look equel for the two sides.. THINK
many thanks
P0werLifter on 12/7/2004 01:30:41
Positioning of the compents is rather hard to explain. Look around on the net for different kick panels and look at how they have them aimed. Q-logic kick panels provide a pretty good idea of how you should aim them, but ever automobile is a little different.
This is where your own experimentation comes into play...cant tell you how to do everything. Learning is a process GRIN that requries expirimentation and trying different things.
Just look around on the net for other people's kickpanels etc and go from there
only_tuning on 12/7/2004 03:20:46
ok no problem ...
but there's few materials i didn't understand ..i neen more explainations for them ..... like :
-Catalyst (aka. Hardner)
-A respirator
-Bondo ..
GRIN please mind my poor engilsh
P0werLifter on 12/7/2004 03:52:48
Alright...when talking about fiberglass we have 3 components that make it. We have the actual fiberglass matt that we soak. We have the resin, then the hardner that solidifies the resin.
When we mix harder (catalyst) in with the resin, it soilidifies creats a very hard material. This is why it is applied to the shop matt.
A respirator is something we use to filter out the harmfull chemicals/ particles in the air. You need to use one because the fumes given off from the fiberglass along with the dust made when sanding can be harmful to your lungs.
Bondo is a body filler we use to make all the imperfections in the fiberglass smooth. you mix the base with a hardner in a way sort of like fiberglass, then spread it over the area you want. Let it dry, then sand it down.
This is just a brief overview of what each of those things are. If you need to. do some research on the net.
only_tuning on 12/11/2004 01:40:03
till now i didn't start anything i'm looking for the best materials/ tools available in my place .............
but i was THINK does the kick panels or fiberglass need any maintainencs .........
or does it get affected by the heat and cold of the summer and winter ..
many thanks
P0werLifter on 12/11/2004 02:22:56
No...the kick panels do not need any maintenence after their installed. The heat and cold you will experience in your local will not have an effect on the fiberglass
CSR on 12/13/2004 23:45:04
Power, that is a killer tutorial you've got there. I've done a ton of fiberglass, but never thought of putting a few pages together. Great work.
Cliff
P0werLifter on 12/14/2004 02:58:14
Cliff, That isnt my tutorial GRIN. Im going to be making one soon though. Ive just been showing him some other ones that were around and explaining the steps involved. Thanks tho
Jason
only_tuning on 12/14/2004 05:50:56
well so may u kindly please give me some more web sites ... more more .. diffrent than what posted i want more ... i want to study it perfectly and be well prepared ..
thanks
ttocs on 12/14/2004 10:30:01
a resperator? But it smells so perty............
P0werLifter on 12/14/2004 13:42:11
Go to yahoo or google and just search for Fiberglass tutorials, I dont have any more links as I've learned the very basics of it,,,then got to work. Book Smarts only go so far in this world. You learn far more by doing it. There isnt anything else i can do for you as far as fiberglass goes Tuning. Time for you to step up to the plate and take a swing.
GRIN ttocs I dont mind the fiberglass fumes lol, I dont even smell them anymore (is that bad? GRIN) infact..me LIKEY CLAP haha jk. As long as im working outside where its well ventelated i dont worry about it as much but as soon as im going to sand. On goes the mask/ respirator. badtimes getting that cr@p in my lungs
CSR on 12/14/2004 16:26:37
I've never seen any tutorials on the web, except for the really basic ones. Like Power said, it's best to just start working with it to know first hand how it's done. I learned in a body shop years ago and still like to use figerglass for alot of projects. There are a few books that show some other ways to make the molds, but that web site show the best way to built kick panels. Trust me, I've try a few different ways and that one works the best with the less amount of work.
I just finished a sub box for a 10" to fit in the jump seat area in my truck. I used cormat to stiffen the walls and used 3/4 MDF for the face to mount the speaker. 2 layers of cormat is like 1" MDF, so it's light weight and strong as he!!.
Cliff
only_tuning on 12/15/2004 06:10:43
hi
i just want to make sure of something about the fiber glass matt .. i found on this link:
http://www.shopmaninc.com/cloth.html
i red about the fiber glass matt when it's smoother it's better to make the paint job latter ...
is the fiberglass mat or cloth better .?????
which O.Z is the best ?
many thanks
swez on 12/15/2004 07:19:34
Tuning,
You are getting a lot of great info here. Are you afraid of making mistakes or missing a key step? Yes, something new is always a daunting task. But, making a few minor mistakes is all part of the process. Jump in, get your hands on this stuff and get a feel for it first.
Maybe the first phase of this project, is just making a simple form that gives you a feel for the process. That way, you can see (get a feel for) the process and figure out your concerns. The Bondo covers many imperfections. Just means more steps and sanding is all. With a little practice, you will be able to dispell concerns on the "unknow".
Once that phase has passed to your satisfaction, now you will be ready to begin the real deal. Mistakes are only opportunities to learn. No need to fear them... learning how to compensate is half the fun.
Are you ready for a test project? If not, why not? If so, press on and get your hand dirty! SMILE
Swez
PS You can do this! PL has been feeding you very good info. You should see what he did on his first attemp! Awesome enclosure! Show it there PL! Not to brag, but what you learned eh?
P0werLifter on 12/15/2004 13:58:31
Tuning,
I dont reccomend the woven style of matt for this application. You need the Chop matt. Chop matt will conform better to the tight areas and provide a better base.
This is the matt I use
http://www.shopmaninc.com/cloth.html
Ill throw up some pics of my enclosure im working on. As we speak im building the amp rack cover that goes in the front, and also finishing up the consol.
NOTE: these pics are after its bondo's and sanded down to provide a smooth surface for primer to go on then paint. Everything will be color matched to the exterior of the truck (emerald green)
The enclosure is >8cu Ft factoring in port and sub displacements. It will house a single Resonant Engineering 15" XXX with 1800watts RMS.
http://www.2and2.net/Uploads/Images/bondo box3.jpeg
http://www.2and2.net/Uploads/Images/bondo box1.jpeg
(I tried to link them but its showing an "X" so we'll do it this way for now see if it works)
Ive got more pics but dont wish to take up any more bandwith than neccessary.
Also here is a pic of my center consol. Didnt turn out exactly how I had planned but it will look good once its painted and installed. All the wiring will be inside the consol (Ie. Distrobution blocks, Grounding Block, Relays etc). Its housing an Audio Control Epic-160 and an 8" Koda Subwoofer to handle 70z-180Hz. Koda enclosure is .27cuFt
-PL
CSR on 12/15/2004 18:10:58
I don't know how to post a pic on site, here a link to a pic of the sub
http://www.csr69.com/subbox.jpg
and heres a pic during the install with the sub, amp, and cap mounted.
http://www.csr69.com/141-64.jpg
The sub wasn't built like the system used to build a kick panel, but it will show a few other things that can be done with fiberglass.
Cliff
only_tuning on 12/18/2004 06:29:22
thanks alot PL , CSR AND SWEZ CLAP
but i'm just being carfull not more....... i want to choose the best matiers available to make it solid .............
the other reason is because i'm new in car audio and i'm kind off helping my friends in his new car audio shop and we want to start in fiber glass buisness ... so the 1st sameple is going to be in my car ..
HAPPY
CSR on 12/18/2004 10:38:13
Then take a look on eBay. There is a DVD set on fiberglassing for auto sound. I've seen it in the Car Audio section a number of times. I've heard from a few different people that's it's pretty good.
achiving the a very good sound imaging in your car . .. is done by the front speakers in the front ...... in my car the front speakers are installed in the cover of the side door not in the door it self .. this causes alot of ratlling ..
so from that i prefer make a kick panels made from wood ..
for my ALPINE SPR-176A COMPS
need help.
Replies (32)
P0werLifter on 12/1/2004 01:18:42
So what exactly is your question? Are your inquiring on how to build kick panels? or how will kick panels adjust your stereo imaging?
Most kick panels are built using fiberglass and molted into the existing interior paneling, or built custom with glass molding to the interior. Wood would not be the best option here.
As far as Imaging is concerned, Adding Kickpanels is night and day comparing it to stock locations. Kick Panels are well worth the $$ or the time building them. You might wanna check out Q-logic Kickpanels, they have tons of vehicles they build them for.
only_tuning on 12/1/2004 16:08:45
lets us say my concern on imagning is 70 % and looks 30 %......
so i'll need from you the two answers ..... how to build kick panels? and how to make a better sound imaging?
i don't want to use fiber glass .... i prefer using flexiglass ..but will the kick panels be in an small enclouser or free air ...... and which is better in SQ and wont hurt my Alpine components SPR-176A
THANKS
P0werLifter on 12/2/2004 01:43:27
i am unfamiliar with the term "flexiglass". I have never seen kick panels build with plain wood, all the ones i have seen are built using fiberglass to mold to the countours of the car, and to be able to position the speaker in the manner to provide the best imaging for that particular automobile.
You might want to check out q logic kickpanes on cardomain.com and see if they have any for your car.
A small enclosure will help with the low end of the driver and provide better response then free air. Neither free air, nor sealed will hurt your components.
speakerman3 on 12/2/2004 15:43:34
Are you referring to plexiglass or acrylic? I can imagine building the baffle (mounting area for the speakers) out of plexiglass with fiberglass contoured to hold everything together, but it seems like well done fiberglass would be just as pretty and easier.
Chris
only_tuning on 12/2/2004 16:10:57
ok so can the experts her guide to do step-by-step to do kick panels for my car .....
i checked car domain they don't have kickpanels for my car ..
thanks
P0werLifter on 12/2/2004 21:12:34
I can help you, but pictures give a much better description of what to do. heres a link of one that was built but make sure u aim the woofer in a manner upwards towards the seats rather than to the sides. This will provide better stereo imaging.
http://web.njit.edu/~cas1383/proj/kickpanels/index.htm
If you have questions feel free to ask, pictures speak a thousand words and i plan on building a set for my truck in the near future (i have Q-logic but i want to experiment) and i plan to due a tutorial for it once im finished.
P0werLifter on 12/2/2004 21:23:10
BTW 4got to add..when using fiberglass make sure you do it in a well vented area and i reccomend using a respirator to filture the fumes. Also get a bunch of latex gloves, and throw away paint brushes.
Ive also found out that the fiberglass from a marine/boating store is of higher quality and usually cheaper than the stuff you buy at a hardware store. Also be patient, fiberglassing techniques take time, its not a fast process by any means and experimentation is required to find your own techniques GRIN
only_tuning on 12/4/2004 01:51:43
ok that's cool ..... i need fom you to list me the materials need to make the kick panels ....... as you mentioned the i bettter get these from marine/boating store ........ i also what to paint them ..
i understand 60 % of the job till now ... need step-by-step i want to make it look like a professional peice of work ...
according to the link you gave me i noticed something .... pic number 7.8 .. when i put the glass foem is it only buy the brush or i need to after puting glass foem i put something so make it solid and look like pic number 9 ..
does the thickness of the kick panels affect the SQ .. ????
and how will i make them well fitted to the carpet side ..?????
THINK
P0werLifter on 12/4/2004 03:03:27
Alrighty sounds good, at least you have a basic understandnig right now. Now lets get down to business,
Materials/ Tools
-Fiberglass Chop Matt (doesnt matter what thickness, i prefer 6oz)
-Fiberglass Resin
-Catalyst (aka. Hardner)
-Plenty of Paint brushes (buy the very cheap ones about 3" width)
-A fairly low mixing bucket (to hold the resin and mix it in)
-A respirator
-Masking Tape, plastic tarp
-Box of Latex Gloves
-Stretchy material (an old T-shirt should work- Or something with a polyester blend that will soak up resin and can stretch)
-Bondo
-Primer
-Paint
-Sanding Paper 80,120, 220 Grits
-Sander
I think thats all for materials now on to your question.
What you dont see in the picture is in the area where he taped/aluminum foiled off (the area where the kick panels back and base were going) he layed down chop matt. The easiest way to do this is once you have it taped off and you know where its going to be, lay down some 3m spray glue, let it tack up for 2minutes then lay down ur chop matt all over covering the whole area where the kickpanel bottom/back is going to be.
Next, you pour in some resin (not to much, a little goes along way when doing chop matt) into your bucket, and add the catalyst to it (make sure to read the directions to it, or ask the guys at the marine shop they'll know). Mix that catalyst in with the resin, then with your pain brush, start applying it all over the chop matt making sure you really soak it up (make sure there is NO white anywhere on the matt, once its soaked the matt will become semi-clear). Do this to the whole matt. (Note: This is messy so make sure everything is taped and covered in the area your working in,,and make sure ur wearing gloves/respirator, and long sleeve shirt)
Once everything is soaked and still in the position you want it, go inside and let it dry. If you did it correctly it should only take about 20-30minutes b4 its hard enough for you to remove out of the car, and strip off the tape, foil etc. If you need to, apply more chop matt and resin in the manner i talked about above to provide more stability to it.
then once thats dry, put it back in the car to make sure it fits correctly, then trace out the area you want it in as the tutorial dude. then cut ..BAM theres your base.
Now..on to your second question, as long as the fiberglass is rigid enough to hold the speakers up nice, and it doesnt flex, this will be sufficient. It doesnt take much fiberglass to make a very strong rigid base and back, Thickness will not affect SQ just make sure you have enough room for the speaker to mount and not hit anything.
As far as making it well fitted to the carpet side, im not quite sure what you mean by that, can you be more specific in your question?
-Jason
swez on 12/4/2004 09:40:29
Very interesting project you guys have going here. I think he means the carpeting at the floor and foot well, as it rises up to the fire wall.
Also, aiming the MB drivers and tweeters is key to good SQ. A good target to aim at, will be the headliner, centered between the seats. May have to use some reference stings to guide you in the aiming process. The tweeters and MB drivers should be in parallel paths, up to the headliner focal point. A bit tougher to do on the driver's side kick panel due to steering wheel and such.
Keep up the good work guys!
Swez
P0werLifter on 12/4/2004 16:17:04
Thanks Swez, Alright to answer your question if I understood it right, the fiberglass will mold perfectly to the floor countours as long as you press it in firmly and resin it up. When you wrap the material around the speaker mounting rings, and around the bottom your going to hold it in place with some glue or staples and let the resin dry and adhere it all together to make one solid piece.
Once its dry you'll trim away the excess on the bottom/top/sides to where it will fit flat on the floor. Then allz ya gotta do is sand, bondo, sand, paint and whammy...theres ur kick panels. Make sure you aim the woofer/tweeter in the correct position for proper imaging as Swez and myself have described above.
only_tuning on 12/5/2004 01:49:32
many thanks for your help .... that's hell alot of information i'll try to be carefull with details you mentioned ... but more thing i didn't understand is ... after everthing is done and fiberglass kickpanels are ready to be used ......... how will i fit the kickpanels excatly tight and make sure that they wont come out even if they were shaped on the foot step side of the driver and passenger side.
do i have to stick the fiber from the iner side or from the out side and will it break ..
P0werLifter on 12/5/2004 04:43:53
Now that my friend is the simple part of this project GRIN. Assuming everything is molded and formed correctly, (even if its not perfect) alls you gotta do is...set the kickpanel in the mounting location (dont put in the 6.5" Mid or whatever driver is going in yet). Predrill a hole through the fiberglass into the metal of the car. Then screw in a couple sheet metal screws etc. GRIN. Whammy, done and mounted, with the fiberglass screwed into the metal that kick panel wont be going anywhere in a hurry HAPPY
Any more questions?
ttocs on 12/6/2004 07:45:35
werd.............
http://www.sounddomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=164608
only_tuning on 12/7/2004 00:40:01
car domain web site is really cool ...
but how will i aim the components .. because the driver side is kind of different than the passenger side .. it's hard to make them look equel for the two sides.. THINK
many thanks
P0werLifter on 12/7/2004 01:30:41
Positioning of the compents is rather hard to explain. Look around on the net for different kick panels and look at how they have them aimed. Q-logic kick panels provide a pretty good idea of how you should aim them, but ever automobile is a little different.
This is where your own experimentation comes into play...cant tell you how to do everything. Learning is a process GRIN that requries expirimentation and trying different things.
Just look around on the net for other people's kickpanels etc and go from there
only_tuning on 12/7/2004 03:20:46
ok no problem ...
but there's few materials i didn't understand ..i neen more explainations for them ..... like :
-Catalyst (aka. Hardner)
-A respirator
-Bondo ..
GRIN please mind my poor engilsh
P0werLifter on 12/7/2004 03:52:48
Alright...when talking about fiberglass we have 3 components that make it. We have the actual fiberglass matt that we soak. We have the resin, then the hardner that solidifies the resin.
When we mix harder (catalyst) in with the resin, it soilidifies creats a very hard material. This is why it is applied to the shop matt.
A respirator is something we use to filter out the harmfull chemicals/ particles in the air. You need to use one because the fumes given off from the fiberglass along with the dust made when sanding can be harmful to your lungs.
Bondo is a body filler we use to make all the imperfections in the fiberglass smooth. you mix the base with a hardner in a way sort of like fiberglass, then spread it over the area you want. Let it dry, then sand it down.
This is just a brief overview of what each of those things are. If you need to. do some research on the net.
only_tuning on 12/11/2004 01:40:03
till now i didn't start anything i'm looking for the best materials/ tools available in my place .............
but i was THINK does the kick panels or fiberglass need any maintainencs .........
or does it get affected by the heat and cold of the summer and winter ..
many thanks
P0werLifter on 12/11/2004 02:22:56
No...the kick panels do not need any maintenence after their installed. The heat and cold you will experience in your local will not have an effect on the fiberglass
CSR on 12/13/2004 23:45:04
Power, that is a killer tutorial you've got there. I've done a ton of fiberglass, but never thought of putting a few pages together. Great work.
Cliff
P0werLifter on 12/14/2004 02:58:14
Cliff, That isnt my tutorial GRIN. Im going to be making one soon though. Ive just been showing him some other ones that were around and explaining the steps involved. Thanks tho
Jason
only_tuning on 12/14/2004 05:50:56
well so may u kindly please give me some more web sites ... more more .. diffrent than what posted i want more ... i want to study it perfectly and be well prepared ..
thanks
ttocs on 12/14/2004 10:30:01
a resperator? But it smells so perty............
P0werLifter on 12/14/2004 13:42:11
Go to yahoo or google and just search for Fiberglass tutorials, I dont have any more links as I've learned the very basics of it,,,then got to work. Book Smarts only go so far in this world. You learn far more by doing it. There isnt anything else i can do for you as far as fiberglass goes Tuning. Time for you to step up to the plate and take a swing.
GRIN ttocs I dont mind the fiberglass fumes lol, I dont even smell them anymore (is that bad? GRIN) infact..me LIKEY CLAP haha jk. As long as im working outside where its well ventelated i dont worry about it as much but as soon as im going to sand. On goes the mask/ respirator. badtimes getting that cr@p in my lungs
CSR on 12/14/2004 16:26:37
I've never seen any tutorials on the web, except for the really basic ones. Like Power said, it's best to just start working with it to know first hand how it's done. I learned in a body shop years ago and still like to use figerglass for alot of projects. There are a few books that show some other ways to make the molds, but that web site show the best way to built kick panels. Trust me, I've try a few different ways and that one works the best with the less amount of work.
I just finished a sub box for a 10" to fit in the jump seat area in my truck. I used cormat to stiffen the walls and used 3/4 MDF for the face to mount the speaker. 2 layers of cormat is like 1" MDF, so it's light weight and strong as he!!.
Cliff
only_tuning on 12/15/2004 06:10:43
hi
i just want to make sure of something about the fiber glass matt .. i found on this link:
http://www.shopmaninc.com/cloth.html
i red about the fiber glass matt when it's smoother it's better to make the paint job latter ...
is the fiberglass mat or cloth better .?????
which O.Z is the best ?
many thanks
swez on 12/15/2004 07:19:34
Tuning,
You are getting a lot of great info here. Are you afraid of making mistakes or missing a key step? Yes, something new is always a daunting task. But, making a few minor mistakes is all part of the process. Jump in, get your hands on this stuff and get a feel for it first.
Maybe the first phase of this project, is just making a simple form that gives you a feel for the process. That way, you can see (get a feel for) the process and figure out your concerns. The Bondo covers many imperfections. Just means more steps and sanding is all. With a little practice, you will be able to dispell concerns on the "unknow".
Once that phase has passed to your satisfaction, now you will be ready to begin the real deal. Mistakes are only opportunities to learn. No need to fear them... learning how to compensate is half the fun.
Are you ready for a test project? If not, why not? If so, press on and get your hand dirty! SMILE
Swez
PS You can do this! PL has been feeding you very good info. You should see what he did on his first attemp! Awesome enclosure! Show it there PL! Not to brag, but what you learned eh?
P0werLifter on 12/15/2004 13:58:31
Tuning,
I dont reccomend the woven style of matt for this application. You need the Chop matt. Chop matt will conform better to the tight areas and provide a better base.
This is the matt I use
http://www.shopmaninc.com/cloth.html
Ill throw up some pics of my enclosure im working on. As we speak im building the amp rack cover that goes in the front, and also finishing up the consol.
NOTE: these pics are after its bondo's and sanded down to provide a smooth surface for primer to go on then paint. Everything will be color matched to the exterior of the truck (emerald green)
The enclosure is >8cu Ft factoring in port and sub displacements. It will house a single Resonant Engineering 15" XXX with 1800watts RMS.
http://www.2and2.net/Uploads/Images/bondo box3.jpeg
http://www.2and2.net/Uploads/Images/bondo box1.jpeg
(I tried to link them but its showing an "X" so we'll do it this way for now see if it works)
Ive got more pics but dont wish to take up any more bandwith than neccessary.
Also here is a pic of my center consol. Didnt turn out exactly how I had planned but it will look good once its painted and installed. All the wiring will be inside the consol (Ie. Distrobution blocks, Grounding Block, Relays etc). Its housing an Audio Control Epic-160 and an 8" Koda Subwoofer to handle 70z-180Hz. Koda enclosure is .27cuFt
-PL
CSR on 12/15/2004 18:10:58
I don't know how to post a pic on site, here a link to a pic of the sub
http://www.csr69.com/subbox.jpg
and heres a pic during the install with the sub, amp, and cap mounted.
http://www.csr69.com/141-64.jpg
The sub wasn't built like the system used to build a kick panel, but it will show a few other things that can be done with fiberglass.
Cliff
only_tuning on 12/18/2004 06:29:22
thanks alot PL , CSR AND SWEZ CLAP
but i'm just being carfull not more....... i want to choose the best matiers available to make it solid .............
the other reason is because i'm new in car audio and i'm kind off helping my friends in his new car audio shop and we want to start in fiber glass buisness ... so the 1st sameple is going to be in my car ..
HAPPY
CSR on 12/18/2004 10:38:13
Then take a look on eBay. There is a DVD set on fiberglassing for auto sound. I've seen it in the Car Audio section a number of times. I've heard from a few different people that's it's pretty good.
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