Alrighty now guys, I bought me a lot of 30 speakers today. Some subwoofers and some of the door-like speakers. Now, Some of them worked and some of them didn't. What I need help with, is how I can get the NON working ones, to work. There may be nothing that we can do to fix them, BUT if there's a chance, then it's all good.
First the subs that worked were a 12 inch Cerwin Vega, V124, a Cerwin Vega 10" HED 1002, and a 10 " Rockford Fosgate RFP3210...
Now the subs that didn't work are...
Xplod XS-L1236
Xplod XS-L1035
Xplod XS-L1035D6
Pioneer TS-W29C
RFP3212
Some were beyond fixing... I wired em up, and got nothing out of them. All the wires looked connected, any idea guys? Thanks in advance.
Replies (4)
swez on 12/1/2004 09:00:04
Best thing to do is test the coils on the subs with an ohm meter. The good ones will give you readings above 3 ohms.
On the bad ones, closely inspect the tinsel leads from the voice coil back to the termination lugs. Some could be loose, need to be resoldered etc.
About the only thing you can do if the coils do not register properly on the meter (0 ohms indicates a shorted coil, no meter readings means a separated coil) is to disassemble the sub/speaker "carefully" and peel back a few winds on the coil (both ends) and see if you get a reading now. If yes, can reassemble the speaker and see if it now works.
FYI: This is a very time consuming process. Patience and some sharp Exacto blades will be needed to remove the outer trim gasket, surround, dust cap and spider assy's.
If you want to try one, I can walk you through the process. Experiment with a cheap sub first, so if you mess up, no big loss.
Swez
TheErnie on 12/2/2004 01:54:09
I wouldn't mind giving it a go if you're up for it...
TheErnie on 12/2/2004 01:57:09
Cheapest one I got is a Xtreme VR3 one that doesn't work...
Also, I have a pioneer that gives out like a spattering sound, no bass, and no like voices.. Any ideas on that one?
swez on 12/2/2004 12:15:17
That Pioneer sub, sounds like coil may be working, but separated from cone or spider. Worst case, the coil bottomed out and is mechanically deformend. If you flip the sub on its' face, gently manipulate the cone and look at the spider and cone, where it joins the voice coil. If there is a separation there, it might be repairable. When this type of failure happens, we get a "brrrap, brrrrap" sound. Is that what you have?
OK, if you see the cone/coil is separated from the spider, I have used a 2 part epoxy, mixed and loaded into a small 5cc syringe. Don't need more than a few cc's to do the job. Just premix your epoxy, load into syringe and squirt a few drops around the separation area. Once the separation is lightly coated with epoxy, use a hair dryer to speed up the curing process.
As the heat reaches the epoxy, the viscosity will drop and start to flow around the joint nicely. Reduce heat and air flow on the dryer until the epoxy begins to harden. Let it air cure at room temperature after that. In a few hours, you may test the sub at low power. Wait overnight to really test it at rated power in a sealed enclosure or 50% rated power in free air test.
If you can get this one to work, we can move to the more difficult task of voice coil repairs when there is no sound.
Swez
First the subs that worked were a 12 inch Cerwin Vega, V124, a Cerwin Vega 10" HED 1002, and a 10 " Rockford Fosgate RFP3210...
Now the subs that didn't work are...
Xplod XS-L1236
Xplod XS-L1035
Xplod XS-L1035D6
Pioneer TS-W29C
RFP3212
Some were beyond fixing... I wired em up, and got nothing out of them. All the wires looked connected, any idea guys? Thanks in advance.
Replies (4)
swez on 12/1/2004 09:00:04
Best thing to do is test the coils on the subs with an ohm meter. The good ones will give you readings above 3 ohms.
On the bad ones, closely inspect the tinsel leads from the voice coil back to the termination lugs. Some could be loose, need to be resoldered etc.
About the only thing you can do if the coils do not register properly on the meter (0 ohms indicates a shorted coil, no meter readings means a separated coil) is to disassemble the sub/speaker "carefully" and peel back a few winds on the coil (both ends) and see if you get a reading now. If yes, can reassemble the speaker and see if it now works.
FYI: This is a very time consuming process. Patience and some sharp Exacto blades will be needed to remove the outer trim gasket, surround, dust cap and spider assy's.
If you want to try one, I can walk you through the process. Experiment with a cheap sub first, so if you mess up, no big loss.
Swez
TheErnie on 12/2/2004 01:54:09
I wouldn't mind giving it a go if you're up for it...
TheErnie on 12/2/2004 01:57:09
Cheapest one I got is a Xtreme VR3 one that doesn't work...
Also, I have a pioneer that gives out like a spattering sound, no bass, and no like voices.. Any ideas on that one?
swez on 12/2/2004 12:15:17
That Pioneer sub, sounds like coil may be working, but separated from cone or spider. Worst case, the coil bottomed out and is mechanically deformend. If you flip the sub on its' face, gently manipulate the cone and look at the spider and cone, where it joins the voice coil. If there is a separation there, it might be repairable. When this type of failure happens, we get a "brrrap, brrrrap" sound. Is that what you have?
OK, if you see the cone/coil is separated from the spider, I have used a 2 part epoxy, mixed and loaded into a small 5cc syringe. Don't need more than a few cc's to do the job. Just premix your epoxy, load into syringe and squirt a few drops around the separation area. Once the separation is lightly coated with epoxy, use a hair dryer to speed up the curing process.
As the heat reaches the epoxy, the viscosity will drop and start to flow around the joint nicely. Reduce heat and air flow on the dryer until the epoxy begins to harden. Let it air cure at room temperature after that. In a few hours, you may test the sub at low power. Wait overnight to really test it at rated power in a sealed enclosure or 50% rated power in free air test.
If you can get this one to work, we can move to the more difficult task of voice coil repairs when there is no sound.
Swez
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