OK, been out of the loop for awhile. Long while! What happened to the site on ezboard.com?? Could not find it so I did a general search of the net for "swez" and it took me here. Good thing you have a unique name.
Finally finished school a year ago, got my Electrical and Contractor's licenses and opened my own business. Slow so far, but hope to do better when the phone book ad in the yellow pages comes out.
I'm FINALLY(after 2+ years) about to get serious about my system again. All I had was some Pioneer 4" in the dash and some Jensen(yuck) 6x9's behind the seat with a Pioneer deck. NO amps and subs.
But I'm starting out by replacing all speakers with some new Audiobahn AS series. Putting as62q 6.5's in doors(just bought them the other day) and some as46q 4x6's in the dash.
The door speakers have the option to mount them as coaxials, or as a component set with removable tweeters. Need I even ask which you would say to do??
Dash speakers can be mounted as separates too, but I probably won't do that. More details later in another post on my ideas, but lets hear yours for now.
By the way, what do you think of Audiobahn?? Newer company that's now had several years in the market and their gear looks pretty cool to me. These speakers are way better than any I've ever had before and they are their lower line I believe. BUT MAN DO THEY ALL HAVE BIG MAGNETS. Space may be a problem. Hope not.
I'll look foward to your reply in a day or so.
Duane - a.k.a. audeogod(from the old forums)
Replies (3)
swez on 12/1/2004 11:22:38
Hey Duane,
Long time since we have crossed paths. Congrats on your new Contractor licensing. It's a tough business to start, but once you get a few jobs under your belt, word of mouth will pull in more jobs. Just make sure your get Insured and a contractor's Lic #.
As for your truck application... I like the idea of using components either in the door panels or better still, kick panels. Thed 6x9's can be amped or run off the HU if you like and maybe a modest sub later for some thump.
As for the dash mounted 4x6's, can either run them off the HU front channels or delete them entirely. They may be good for ambient fill up front, but the front door Comps are your best bet for power and clarity.
What HU are you going to use here? If it has RCA's for output, I suggest powering the front 6.5 Comps with the front channels on a solid 4 channel amp and bridge the rear channels for a single sub. How much power you choose in that amp is up to you. But, I would not go less that 75 x 4 RMS.
Bahn? Good SPL speakers. Very efficient, nice looks, decent crossovers and good MB performance. Depending on the tweeters they use in these models, can be very bright. You may need attenuation circuits on the tweeters if they seem over powering to the rest of the system.
Comments?
Swez
audeogod on 12/1/2004 16:33:48
Yeah, the state of KY requires a minimum of $500,000 liability insurance to get licensed, so I have that.
Can't put the comp's in the kick panels because of lack of available space, unless I buy some Q-forms or something. I think the doors will do for me though.
I just threw those 6x9's in there with some wedge shaped boxes when I was lacking on $$$$ so I wouldn't only have the little 4" dash speakers. They are going away permanently now.
But I do like the idea of having dash speakers in combination with the door speakers. That also gives me the idea, since the tweeters are removable on both sets(dash and door) of mounting 6.5's in doors, 4x6's in dash, and then positioning both sets of tweeters(4 in all) in between them(2 per side of the cab space). That way, I don't have to worry about tweeters being too far from any woofer and creating...um...phase problems(is that how you say it?). I have the perfect space to put them in on the door up near the mirror mount just slightly below it. They will be aiming very nearly directly at my listening position.
That idea may be shot now though since you mentioned that Audiobahn's tweeters can be bright. I do have a couple of other optional spaces to mount them in though, and they won't aim directly at me, but rather at the opposite door of the cab. They can swivel somewhat though. I don't know what they are made of. They are blue in color, but could be metal or poly, I don't know which. All I know is I was thrilled with the way they sounded(the whole speaker mounted as a coaxial) on display in the store. And I made sure it was just the deck they were on, no amps, and no subs to help out either.
For now, I'll just have the deck, a Pioneer DEH41(older model, about 4 years) with 45x4, about 22.5x4RMS power, and the Audiobahn 6.5's and 4x6's with separate tweets from both sets. The deck has one set of RCA outs to use later for a sub amp.
I did pick out a cheap Lightning Audio 10" sub from Wal-Mart. Not bad in features with a rubber surround and poly cone. I figured it didn't have to be extreme quality since no one will see it behind the seat and I don't like slammin' bass anyway, just a little extra punch on the deeper notes. Only needs 200 watts and a 0.75 cu. ft. sealed enclosure. I have an older Pioneer amp that will supply that. I bought it several years ago and never used it. I chose that sub for the small air space needs so it would fit behind the seat in the space I have. I will build my own box from 3/4" MDF. I drew up the plans and included amp mounting space by extending the back panel of the box to one side so the amp mounts vertically beside the box and is all one unit. It will be hard to carpet that way, but was necessary so I didn't have to put it under the seat.
Well, that's all for now. Thanks for any input you supply.
swez on 12/1/2004 20:34:05
Sounds like a good "low budget" plan for now. If you do decide to remove the two tweeters and remount them elswhere, can do. Especially if you mount them on the same verticle plane as the door MB drivers. For best results (phasing), aim the tweeters away from each other a tad. This way, you'll get a wider dispersion angle for the tweeters and it may tone down the brightness of them as well. Avoid "beaming" them at your head. If they are still too bright after that part of the install, can insert a Zobel attenuation circuit to knock em down a few dB. Can help you there.
Also, that Lightning sub should work out fine with a modest power amp. A 200 watt bass machine is plenty if only using HU to power most of your speakers.
Comments?
Swez
Finally finished school a year ago, got my Electrical and Contractor's licenses and opened my own business. Slow so far, but hope to do better when the phone book ad in the yellow pages comes out.
I'm FINALLY(after 2+ years) about to get serious about my system again. All I had was some Pioneer 4" in the dash and some Jensen(yuck) 6x9's behind the seat with a Pioneer deck. NO amps and subs.
But I'm starting out by replacing all speakers with some new Audiobahn AS series. Putting as62q 6.5's in doors(just bought them the other day) and some as46q 4x6's in the dash.
The door speakers have the option to mount them as coaxials, or as a component set with removable tweeters. Need I even ask which you would say to do??
Dash speakers can be mounted as separates too, but I probably won't do that. More details later in another post on my ideas, but lets hear yours for now.
By the way, what do you think of Audiobahn?? Newer company that's now had several years in the market and their gear looks pretty cool to me. These speakers are way better than any I've ever had before and they are their lower line I believe. BUT MAN DO THEY ALL HAVE BIG MAGNETS. Space may be a problem. Hope not.
I'll look foward to your reply in a day or so.
Duane - a.k.a. audeogod(from the old forums)
Replies (3)
swez on 12/1/2004 11:22:38
Hey Duane,
Long time since we have crossed paths. Congrats on your new Contractor licensing. It's a tough business to start, but once you get a few jobs under your belt, word of mouth will pull in more jobs. Just make sure your get Insured and a contractor's Lic #.
As for your truck application... I like the idea of using components either in the door panels or better still, kick panels. Thed 6x9's can be amped or run off the HU if you like and maybe a modest sub later for some thump.
As for the dash mounted 4x6's, can either run them off the HU front channels or delete them entirely. They may be good for ambient fill up front, but the front door Comps are your best bet for power and clarity.
What HU are you going to use here? If it has RCA's for output, I suggest powering the front 6.5 Comps with the front channels on a solid 4 channel amp and bridge the rear channels for a single sub. How much power you choose in that amp is up to you. But, I would not go less that 75 x 4 RMS.
Bahn? Good SPL speakers. Very efficient, nice looks, decent crossovers and good MB performance. Depending on the tweeters they use in these models, can be very bright. You may need attenuation circuits on the tweeters if they seem over powering to the rest of the system.
Comments?
Swez
audeogod on 12/1/2004 16:33:48
Yeah, the state of KY requires a minimum of $500,000 liability insurance to get licensed, so I have that.
Can't put the comp's in the kick panels because of lack of available space, unless I buy some Q-forms or something. I think the doors will do for me though.
I just threw those 6x9's in there with some wedge shaped boxes when I was lacking on $$$$ so I wouldn't only have the little 4" dash speakers. They are going away permanently now.
But I do like the idea of having dash speakers in combination with the door speakers. That also gives me the idea, since the tweeters are removable on both sets(dash and door) of mounting 6.5's in doors, 4x6's in dash, and then positioning both sets of tweeters(4 in all) in between them(2 per side of the cab space). That way, I don't have to worry about tweeters being too far from any woofer and creating...um...phase problems(is that how you say it?). I have the perfect space to put them in on the door up near the mirror mount just slightly below it. They will be aiming very nearly directly at my listening position.
That idea may be shot now though since you mentioned that Audiobahn's tweeters can be bright. I do have a couple of other optional spaces to mount them in though, and they won't aim directly at me, but rather at the opposite door of the cab. They can swivel somewhat though. I don't know what they are made of. They are blue in color, but could be metal or poly, I don't know which. All I know is I was thrilled with the way they sounded(the whole speaker mounted as a coaxial) on display in the store. And I made sure it was just the deck they were on, no amps, and no subs to help out either.
For now, I'll just have the deck, a Pioneer DEH41(older model, about 4 years) with 45x4, about 22.5x4RMS power, and the Audiobahn 6.5's and 4x6's with separate tweets from both sets. The deck has one set of RCA outs to use later for a sub amp.
I did pick out a cheap Lightning Audio 10" sub from Wal-Mart. Not bad in features with a rubber surround and poly cone. I figured it didn't have to be extreme quality since no one will see it behind the seat and I don't like slammin' bass anyway, just a little extra punch on the deeper notes. Only needs 200 watts and a 0.75 cu. ft. sealed enclosure. I have an older Pioneer amp that will supply that. I bought it several years ago and never used it. I chose that sub for the small air space needs so it would fit behind the seat in the space I have. I will build my own box from 3/4" MDF. I drew up the plans and included amp mounting space by extending the back panel of the box to one side so the amp mounts vertically beside the box and is all one unit. It will be hard to carpet that way, but was necessary so I didn't have to put it under the seat.
Well, that's all for now. Thanks for any input you supply.
swez on 12/1/2004 20:34:05
Sounds like a good "low budget" plan for now. If you do decide to remove the two tweeters and remount them elswhere, can do. Especially if you mount them on the same verticle plane as the door MB drivers. For best results (phasing), aim the tweeters away from each other a tad. This way, you'll get a wider dispersion angle for the tweeters and it may tone down the brightness of them as well. Avoid "beaming" them at your head. If they are still too bright after that part of the install, can insert a Zobel attenuation circuit to knock em down a few dB. Can help you there.
Also, that Lightning sub should work out fine with a modest power amp. A 200 watt bass machine is plenty if only using HU to power most of your speakers.
Comments?
Swez
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