well i took my system out for winter to protect my subs and amp from the cold and because i won't listen to them during the winter, and had my subs sitting in my garage when i accidentally hit the centre of the cone on one of my Orion XTR3 and it dented the centre of the cone and actually tore a little where the centre was connected to the rest of the cone. what i'm asking is: could this be fixed, and if it can be fixed will it sound absolutely awefull. or should i just toss it in the garbage heap?
Replies (13)
2fastxd on 11/21/2004 15:47:00
This may answer your question, http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t2
Comments, 2fastxd
uochronos on 11/21/2004 16:00:05
one of my Type R 10" subs has a quite bad divit out of it. didnt go all the way trhew though. and it sounds basicaly identical to the good on. as for the tear you well have to repair that. swez has some good info on repairng them. i certainly would not call it garbage....
why dont you listen to them in the winter? and unless your getting far below freezeing alot i dont see cold doing damage to them just so you know.
Chronos
oldmazda on 11/21/2004 16:47:39
well last winter it got to -40 degrees outside and it just gets super icy and i really have to pay really close attention to the road, its just really a personal thing, i probably don't HAVE to take them out but i'd rather do it for my own safety. but my problem with my sub isn't like the ones on the link that 2fast gave me, its in the very centre of the subnad kinda attached to the cone so i can't really repare it from the back. i'm not sure if i know how to explain it, really makes me wish i could just show you. i'll look for a picture that has something similar to what happened on the net but if you guys know what i'm saying let me know if you know how to fix that. thanks
oldmazda on 11/21/2004 16:48:58
sorry about posting it twice i hit the 'make reply' button twice by accident
uochronos on 11/21/2004 17:00:58
np should still be able to repair but may be mroe comlicated. swez again has way more info on this kind of stuff so i well leave it to him.
Chronos
swez on 11/21/2004 21:01:09
Depends on the severity of the damage to the dust cap and how creative you can be to repair/replace it.
If it is a fiberous cover, I use a shop vac to suck out the indentation. If that does the trick, then you have a very good chance of repairing it.
The best thing to do, is remove the dust cap and reshape/replace it. You may be able to get an OEM cap or 2 from Orion, along with instructions on how to remove and reinstall a new one.
http://www.orioncaraudio.com/contacts/default.asp
Worst case, Parts Express has replacement dust caps in several sizes. They are generic and in basic black, but would serve the purpose and save the sub.
http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&DID=7&WebPage_ID=3
Good luck... all is not lost!
Swez
PS After looking at a pic of this sub, seems to have an inverted dust cap. (concave). You can try removing the cap from the cone with IPA to soften the glue a bit. Once the cap is removed, invert and use contact cement to repair the tear from the unseen side and let cure over night. Then glue the cap into original position. Can use Super Glue for that.
ttocs on 11/21/2004 22:49:30
I would not store the speakers, or any electronics in the garage. The temps that they face in there can cause damage....
swez on 11/23/2004 09:38:57
So, what have come up with on this one Oldmazda?
Swez
oldmazda on 11/23/2004 18:59:04
alrite sorry it took a while to answer but i only just got some spare time, i got the dust cap popped back out but now i don't know what to use to seal it back up. when it was knocked it it broke about 1/4 of the seal that attaches the dust cap to the cone. i think someone said silicone but i don't really know which stuff or how to apply it.
swez on 11/23/2004 19:25:34
What is the dust cap material? Some are heavy pulp paper. Others are a composite plastics or a thin membrane dome.
Paper responds very well to bonding agents like Contact cement. Plastic ones often need a chemical bond between cone and cap. Here, Superglue or similar cyanoacrylate adhesives are a better choice.
Silicone will work in many cases too. The only challenge is getting enough on the cap to hold it to cone and not ooze out leaving a real mess to clean up. (or an eye sore)
In any event, centering the cap is most important and no unglued gaps in the seal. If you get a gap, it will rattle and buzz.
Comments?
Swez
oldmazda on 11/23/2004 20:41:25
it is the heavy pulp paper thing that you mentioned, what would be an example of contact cement? and the dust cap is still mostly attached so can i just re glue the place that needs to be glued?
oldmazda on 11/24/2004 17:05:32
do i have to take the dust cap all of the way off and put it back on again, or can i just glue down the place that came off?
swez on 11/24/2004 17:46:29
Contact cement is very common in repair of bike tires and fabric adhsives. A brand name I am most familiar with is called "Weldwood".
It comes in squeeze tubes (like tooth paste) or in cans or jars for larger applications. Made by DAP. Any hardware store or WalMart has this.
http://www.epinions.com/Glue_Adhesives-Dap_DAP_Weldwood_Tan_Contact_Cement_1_Fl_Oz/display_~full_specs
If it were me, I would heat up the the dust cap with a hair dryer until the glue softens and then gently remove the entire cap. Then, clean off the glue residue off the cap as best you can (Acetone/finger nail polish remover) and then reglue the whole cap and reinstall. Vac the coil gap before you re-install the cap.
The old glue residue on the cone may have a notable ridge on it and hard to clean off. Worst case, leave it as is and run a light bead of glue on that ridge too. A small hobby paint brush will do the trick... just cut the bristles short (1/2") so you have full control over where the glue is going to be placed.
Note: When using contact cement, we have to glue both halves to be joined. Allow to dry ~ 10 mins., then center the cap over the VC and set in place. A similar diameter can or jar can also be placed on the out edge of the dust cap to add force to make the glue set well. Allow several hours for full cure or we can speed up the curing process with a hair dryer on "warm" setting. Do not use high setting to speed cure this type of glue. It is flamable.
Hope that helps,
Swez
Replies (13)
2fastxd on 11/21/2004 15:47:00
This may answer your question, http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t2
Comments, 2fastxd
uochronos on 11/21/2004 16:00:05
one of my Type R 10" subs has a quite bad divit out of it. didnt go all the way trhew though. and it sounds basicaly identical to the good on. as for the tear you well have to repair that. swez has some good info on repairng them. i certainly would not call it garbage....
why dont you listen to them in the winter? and unless your getting far below freezeing alot i dont see cold doing damage to them just so you know.
Chronos
oldmazda on 11/21/2004 16:47:39
well last winter it got to -40 degrees outside and it just gets super icy and i really have to pay really close attention to the road, its just really a personal thing, i probably don't HAVE to take them out but i'd rather do it for my own safety. but my problem with my sub isn't like the ones on the link that 2fast gave me, its in the very centre of the subnad kinda attached to the cone so i can't really repare it from the back. i'm not sure if i know how to explain it, really makes me wish i could just show you. i'll look for a picture that has something similar to what happened on the net but if you guys know what i'm saying let me know if you know how to fix that. thanks
oldmazda on 11/21/2004 16:48:58
sorry about posting it twice i hit the 'make reply' button twice by accident
uochronos on 11/21/2004 17:00:58
np should still be able to repair but may be mroe comlicated. swez again has way more info on this kind of stuff so i well leave it to him.
Chronos
swez on 11/21/2004 21:01:09
Depends on the severity of the damage to the dust cap and how creative you can be to repair/replace it.
If it is a fiberous cover, I use a shop vac to suck out the indentation. If that does the trick, then you have a very good chance of repairing it.
The best thing to do, is remove the dust cap and reshape/replace it. You may be able to get an OEM cap or 2 from Orion, along with instructions on how to remove and reinstall a new one.
http://www.orioncaraudio.com/contacts/default.asp
Worst case, Parts Express has replacement dust caps in several sizes. They are generic and in basic black, but would serve the purpose and save the sub.
http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&DID=7&WebPage_ID=3
Good luck... all is not lost!
Swez
PS After looking at a pic of this sub, seems to have an inverted dust cap. (concave). You can try removing the cap from the cone with IPA to soften the glue a bit. Once the cap is removed, invert and use contact cement to repair the tear from the unseen side and let cure over night. Then glue the cap into original position. Can use Super Glue for that.
ttocs on 11/21/2004 22:49:30
I would not store the speakers, or any electronics in the garage. The temps that they face in there can cause damage....
swez on 11/23/2004 09:38:57
So, what have come up with on this one Oldmazda?
Swez
oldmazda on 11/23/2004 18:59:04
alrite sorry it took a while to answer but i only just got some spare time, i got the dust cap popped back out but now i don't know what to use to seal it back up. when it was knocked it it broke about 1/4 of the seal that attaches the dust cap to the cone. i think someone said silicone but i don't really know which stuff or how to apply it.
swez on 11/23/2004 19:25:34
What is the dust cap material? Some are heavy pulp paper. Others are a composite plastics or a thin membrane dome.
Paper responds very well to bonding agents like Contact cement. Plastic ones often need a chemical bond between cone and cap. Here, Superglue or similar cyanoacrylate adhesives are a better choice.
Silicone will work in many cases too. The only challenge is getting enough on the cap to hold it to cone and not ooze out leaving a real mess to clean up. (or an eye sore)
In any event, centering the cap is most important and no unglued gaps in the seal. If you get a gap, it will rattle and buzz.
Comments?
Swez
oldmazda on 11/23/2004 20:41:25
it is the heavy pulp paper thing that you mentioned, what would be an example of contact cement? and the dust cap is still mostly attached so can i just re glue the place that needs to be glued?
oldmazda on 11/24/2004 17:05:32
do i have to take the dust cap all of the way off and put it back on again, or can i just glue down the place that came off?
swez on 11/24/2004 17:46:29
Contact cement is very common in repair of bike tires and fabric adhsives. A brand name I am most familiar with is called "Weldwood".
It comes in squeeze tubes (like tooth paste) or in cans or jars for larger applications. Made by DAP. Any hardware store or WalMart has this.
http://www.epinions.com/Glue_Adhesives-Dap_DAP_Weldwood_Tan_Contact_Cement_1_Fl_Oz/display_~full_specs
If it were me, I would heat up the the dust cap with a hair dryer until the glue softens and then gently remove the entire cap. Then, clean off the glue residue off the cap as best you can (Acetone/finger nail polish remover) and then reglue the whole cap and reinstall. Vac the coil gap before you re-install the cap.
The old glue residue on the cone may have a notable ridge on it and hard to clean off. Worst case, leave it as is and run a light bead of glue on that ridge too. A small hobby paint brush will do the trick... just cut the bristles short (1/2") so you have full control over where the glue is going to be placed.
Note: When using contact cement, we have to glue both halves to be joined. Allow to dry ~ 10 mins., then center the cap over the VC and set in place. A similar diameter can or jar can also be placed on the out edge of the dust cap to add force to make the glue set well. Allow several hours for full cure or we can speed up the curing process with a hair dryer on "warm" setting. Do not use high setting to speed cure this type of glue. It is flamable.
Hope that helps,
Swez
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