i have:
h/u - pioneer deh p5550mp 4x 50w
front - pioneer 220w splits
rear - pioneer 330w 6x9's
boot - pioneer vccs 12" sub in box
amp - 4 channel 600w schnieder
how do i make this system work best?
Replies (9)
Victor on 11/21/2004 04:29:53
hmmm... well you are missing on a lot of details here.. please specify the exact model numbers and detailed specs.. or link to the specs...
for example.. the pioneer vccs 12" sub u mentioned has like more than 6 variants... how wud we know exactly what equipment are u talking about..
please mention complete and correct details ..
also there are a lot of factors incorporated in obtaining optimum result from your current audio system.. we shall discuss that much later in the post.. but for now we need the specs as a strong foundation ..
comments...??
Victor...
screwy666 on 11/21/2004 04:44:36
Victor on 11/21/2004 04:52:51
i am in the chat room for 15 mins.. join in if u wanna talk it out there,,,'
Victor...
screwy666 on 11/21/2004 05:19:22
12" Subwoofer for Infinite Baffle ("Free Air") applications
Optimised for "Free Air" applications
600 Watts Max. Power Handling
300 Watts Nominal Rating
Frequency Response 18 ~ 2,000 Hz.
Efficiency 90 dB
Impedance 4 Ohm
6x9's - 3-Way Configuration
330 Watts Max. Power Handling
80 Watts Nominal Rating
Frequency Response 25 ~ 30,000 Hz.
Efficiency 93 dB
Impedance 4 Ohm
f0 (Lowest Resonant Frequency) 58 Hz.
Crossover frequency 2,500Hz
splitz - 16cm Packaged 2-way Component System
220 Watts Max. Power Handling
60 Watts Nominal Rating
Frequency Response 30 - 32,000 Hz.
Efficiency 91dB
Impedance 4 Ohm
fo (Lowest Resonant Frequency) 73 Hz.
H/U -
MOSFET 50 Watts x 4 high power
Pop-up Rotary Volume control
EEQ+ (Easy Equalizer)
EQ-EX (augments EEQ)
3-Band Parametric Equalizer within EEQ
HPF/LPF Crossover within EEQ
Built-in Subwoofer Crossover (50/80/125Hz)
Direct Subwoofer Drive
Electronic Bass / Treble
SFEQ (Sound Focus Equalizer) - replaces FIE
Selectable Loudness Control
Electronic Volume / Balance / Fader controls
Selectable Dual RCA or RCA + Sub Preout
SLA (Source Level Adjuster)
Level Indicator
AUX IN capable via CD-RB20
Cellular Mute
Bridgeable 4 Channel Amplifier
180 W x 4 Max power
65 W x 4 RMS power
Features:
Total Max Power = 4 x 180 Watts.
2 x 130 Watts RMS @ 4 Ohms bridged.
<0.05% total harmonic distortion @ 4 Ohms.
Thermal overload protection circuit offers added redundancy.
High and Low Level inputs allow connectivity to modern head units with RCA outputs or older style factory units.
Dual Power Supply for optimum sound output.
Variable high/low pass Crossover allows attachment for a variety of speakers or subwoofers.
Victor on 11/21/2004 06:52:13
Good... now thats called info...
Looking at the equipments u have.. frankly theres not much scope other than the regular setup..no need to be down cause if u cant get the best.. u can atleast get the best out of what u got..
All the gear u got is good average gear.. i just see a dip in sub amplification..
cause the amp that u got has got enough power for all the ovals and the seprates u got.. but the sub here wont get enough power if you decide to drive it with the same amp..
is u do want to use the sub though... u can run the front seprates on the channel 1&2 of the amp and bridge the channel 3&4 to drive the sub..the rear speakers can be wired directly to the HU rear output it will play but not at its best.. cause the sub aint getting enough power to perform at its best..( speaker placement wud also matter.. but all u can do here is install the seperate in the doorpanels.. their tweets on the dash or A pillar.. the coaxials in the rear baffle and the sub in the baffle too)
If here you got something around 150$to spend then u can get a good amp to drive your sub.. and the amp that u already have can drive all the 4 speakers..
thats all i got in mind..i can tell you something more.. if you tell me what r u exactly looking for..how much more can u spend...??
are u from australia??
i think we got a few members from aus who can help u find a good installer too..
comments...??
Victor...
swez on 11/21/2004 09:10:58
What Victor suggested will work well for moderate powered systems. You can use channels 1&2 to power your splits and channels 3&4 (bridged) to power the sub. Just make sure the channels 3&4 have a Low Pass filter network for sub. (80-100 Hz and below will pass to sub) The notes you gave indicate this will work. Has HP/LP on each half of the amp.
Actually, that sub is rated for 200 RMS. This amp can deliver 130 RMS @ 4 ohms. Not a bad match.
Swez
screwy666 on 11/21/2004 21:24:43
i live in south australia! i already have my other speakers nd h/u in im just waiting on my amp so i can run my sub! thanks victor and swez! il try and let ya know how i went!
swez on 11/21/2004 21:31:20
G-day mate. This should be a pretty smooth operation in all.
I note you have a free air sub here. Are you planning to enclose it or maybe mount it in the boot. (spare tire well?) Hummmm, see you mentioned a box already in the original post... never mind... (sheepish grin)
Swez SMILE
Victor on 11/21/2004 23:05:27
hmmm... if you do plan to make an enclosure for this sub.. i got a very good one for u..
i have made this box with the same pioneer sub u are talking about..
swez and me were discussing about it yesterday.. and it sure is a performer..
its just a suggestion.. its completely upto you to decide what u wanna do..
anyways if you do plan to make it .. here's the link to the original post..
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?g2458_1074
lemme know if u need some help regarding it..
comments...??
Victor...
h/u - pioneer deh p5550mp 4x 50w
front - pioneer 220w splits
rear - pioneer 330w 6x9's
boot - pioneer vccs 12" sub in box
amp - 4 channel 600w schnieder
how do i make this system work best?
Replies (9)
Victor on 11/21/2004 04:29:53
hmmm... well you are missing on a lot of details here.. please specify the exact model numbers and detailed specs.. or link to the specs...
for example.. the pioneer vccs 12" sub u mentioned has like more than 6 variants... how wud we know exactly what equipment are u talking about..
please mention complete and correct details ..
also there are a lot of factors incorporated in obtaining optimum result from your current audio system.. we shall discuss that much later in the post.. but for now we need the specs as a strong foundation ..
comments...??
Victor...
screwy666 on 11/21/2004 04:44:36
Victor on 11/21/2004 04:52:51
i am in the chat room for 15 mins.. join in if u wanna talk it out there,,,'
Victor...
screwy666 on 11/21/2004 05:19:22
12" Subwoofer for Infinite Baffle ("Free Air") applications
Optimised for "Free Air" applications
600 Watts Max. Power Handling
300 Watts Nominal Rating
Frequency Response 18 ~ 2,000 Hz.
Efficiency 90 dB
Impedance 4 Ohm
6x9's - 3-Way Configuration
330 Watts Max. Power Handling
80 Watts Nominal Rating
Frequency Response 25 ~ 30,000 Hz.
Efficiency 93 dB
Impedance 4 Ohm
f0 (Lowest Resonant Frequency) 58 Hz.
Crossover frequency 2,500Hz
splitz - 16cm Packaged 2-way Component System
220 Watts Max. Power Handling
60 Watts Nominal Rating
Frequency Response 30 - 32,000 Hz.
Efficiency 91dB
Impedance 4 Ohm
fo (Lowest Resonant Frequency) 73 Hz.
H/U -
MOSFET 50 Watts x 4 high power
Pop-up Rotary Volume control
EEQ+ (Easy Equalizer)
EQ-EX (augments EEQ)
3-Band Parametric Equalizer within EEQ
HPF/LPF Crossover within EEQ
Built-in Subwoofer Crossover (50/80/125Hz)
Direct Subwoofer Drive
Electronic Bass / Treble
SFEQ (Sound Focus Equalizer) - replaces FIE
Selectable Loudness Control
Electronic Volume / Balance / Fader controls
Selectable Dual RCA or RCA + Sub Preout
SLA (Source Level Adjuster)
Level Indicator
AUX IN capable via CD-RB20
Cellular Mute
Bridgeable 4 Channel Amplifier
180 W x 4 Max power
65 W x 4 RMS power
Features:
Total Max Power = 4 x 180 Watts.
2 x 130 Watts RMS @ 4 Ohms bridged.
<0.05% total harmonic distortion @ 4 Ohms.
Thermal overload protection circuit offers added redundancy.
High and Low Level inputs allow connectivity to modern head units with RCA outputs or older style factory units.
Dual Power Supply for optimum sound output.
Variable high/low pass Crossover allows attachment for a variety of speakers or subwoofers.
Victor on 11/21/2004 06:52:13
Good... now thats called info...
Looking at the equipments u have.. frankly theres not much scope other than the regular setup..no need to be down cause if u cant get the best.. u can atleast get the best out of what u got..
All the gear u got is good average gear.. i just see a dip in sub amplification..
cause the amp that u got has got enough power for all the ovals and the seprates u got.. but the sub here wont get enough power if you decide to drive it with the same amp..
is u do want to use the sub though... u can run the front seprates on the channel 1&2 of the amp and bridge the channel 3&4 to drive the sub..the rear speakers can be wired directly to the HU rear output it will play but not at its best.. cause the sub aint getting enough power to perform at its best..( speaker placement wud also matter.. but all u can do here is install the seperate in the doorpanels.. their tweets on the dash or A pillar.. the coaxials in the rear baffle and the sub in the baffle too)
If here you got something around 150$to spend then u can get a good amp to drive your sub.. and the amp that u already have can drive all the 4 speakers..
thats all i got in mind..i can tell you something more.. if you tell me what r u exactly looking for..how much more can u spend...??
are u from australia??
i think we got a few members from aus who can help u find a good installer too..
comments...??
Victor...
swez on 11/21/2004 09:10:58
What Victor suggested will work well for moderate powered systems. You can use channels 1&2 to power your splits and channels 3&4 (bridged) to power the sub. Just make sure the channels 3&4 have a Low Pass filter network for sub. (80-100 Hz and below will pass to sub) The notes you gave indicate this will work. Has HP/LP on each half of the amp.
Actually, that sub is rated for 200 RMS. This amp can deliver 130 RMS @ 4 ohms. Not a bad match.
Swez
screwy666 on 11/21/2004 21:24:43
i live in south australia! i already have my other speakers nd h/u in im just waiting on my amp so i can run my sub! thanks victor and swez! il try and let ya know how i went!
swez on 11/21/2004 21:31:20
G-day mate. This should be a pretty smooth operation in all.
I note you have a free air sub here. Are you planning to enclose it or maybe mount it in the boot. (spare tire well?) Hummmm, see you mentioned a box already in the original post... never mind... (sheepish grin)
Swez SMILE
Victor on 11/21/2004 23:05:27
hmmm... if you do plan to make an enclosure for this sub.. i got a very good one for u..
i have made this box with the same pioneer sub u are talking about..
swez and me were discussing about it yesterday.. and it sure is a performer..
its just a suggestion.. its completely upto you to decide what u wanna do..
anyways if you do plan to make it .. here's the link to the original post..
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?g2458_1074
lemme know if u need some help regarding it..
comments...??
Victor...
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