Hello everyone. I have a 1993 dodge stealth. The amp was stolen before I purchased the car. So I am looking for the type of amp to replace it with. The car has 9 speakers in all. 2 tweeters in dash, 2 tweeters under dash, 2 dual cone in doors, 2-9" in the rear deck, and a 15inch sub in the trunk area.
The guy I bought it from had no idea what was originally in there! I have heard I need a 5 channel amp to run the stockers and the 15". What are your suggestions?
Replies (4)
Pinch on 11/20/2004 02:16:25
It sounds like a lot of aftermarket work was done to this before you got it. Just a quick bit of advice: I would never take something somebody else installed and just add on to it without giving it a thorough once over. You may have already done that, but a good inspection to ensure proper wire routing techniques were used will save you a huge headache down the road.
One other blurb... are you stuck on using all 4 tweeters in the dash? In my opinion, a woofer in the door, and a tweeter in the dash is optimal. More tweeters are un-necessary if the first set is of good quality. Trimming that down would allow for an easier install of that 5 channel you mentioned.
By the way. A 5 channel amp, though often not as powerful as using separate amps, is a very nice easy way to get a good, clean sounding system.
Pinch
swez on 11/20/2004 21:25:40
Agreed... if you don't know what was done before you got the car in audio mods, often best to either review what was done or do it over so you know exactly what is installed and why.
A 5 channel amp is great for modest bass needs. But if you really desire a strong bass machine, a solid 4 channel and a Class D MONO amp are usually the best option. The catch is matching the power demand of the amps used, to what your electrical system (ALT/BAT) can supply.
Say more and we can try to walk you through some options.
Swez
WOLF on 11/20/2004 22:27:30
I have reviewed a lot of the parts but I haven't got as far as inspecting all of the speakers. I will do so and get back to you. Thanks so far for the help. Greatly Appreciated.
I do not want a "super pounder". All I am looking for in the system is a good sound. I am still toying with the idea of dumping the 15" and the two other tweeters under the dash which I know are aftermarket. This would leave me with just a six speaker set up. I agree I need to go through the system completely.
(Thinking about the six speaker option as I write) Pioneer Premier head unit can only control four speakers correct? This means still needing an amp for the other two? How did the stock system work, do you think the stock head unit was controlling all six stock speakers or was there a stock amp?
I will give you more info soon! Thanks again!
swez on 11/21/2004 09:45:25
Most Chrysler products employ the Infinity Audio system. These consist of matched HU, speakers and power amp to run them. Not a bad system for stock, but Aftermarket can give much more.
Sounds like the original conversion was to aftermarket add ons like the tweeters and sub. Are the door and rear speakers stock?
Most guys want a blend of quality audio from the F&R stage speakers and a sub to add bump in the bass region. Adding quality Component speakers in doors (replace the dual cones) and adding a decent 4 channel amp, will power the front Comps and perhaps the sub too.
A good strategy here, might be a potent 4 channel amp, (~100 RMS x 4) and good Comps up front. The front channels of the amp will power the Comps. The sub(s) can be powered by the rear channel amps. The rear 6x9's can be run off the HU power amps as these are just MB fill only.
Bridging the rear channels on the amp, will net a solid 350-400 watts RMS for a sub. However, the total sub resistance load must be 4 ohms when using a bridged amp.
System suggestions:
4 Channel amp: This one will do a fine job.
http://www.thezeb.com/p-MA-Audio-M489I-Multi-Channel-Amplifier-102551.htm $170.00
Front Comps:
http://www.thezeb.com/p-MA-Audio-Y3K6C-6-1-2-inch-Component-System-102801.htm $80.00/pr.
Sub: What you have now, may work fine if it is a 4 ohm sub. What is the make and model number of that sub? Pull it out and find out what you have back there. If you wish to go with a different sub, make sure it can take the power and is able to meet the 4 ohm target. A single 2+2 Dual coil sub should be easy to find in that power range. If you desire 2 subs for this applications, use a pair of 4+4 DVC's. That will net 4 ohms when wired correctly.
What say you?
Swez
The guy I bought it from had no idea what was originally in there! I have heard I need a 5 channel amp to run the stockers and the 15". What are your suggestions?
Replies (4)
Pinch on 11/20/2004 02:16:25
It sounds like a lot of aftermarket work was done to this before you got it. Just a quick bit of advice: I would never take something somebody else installed and just add on to it without giving it a thorough once over. You may have already done that, but a good inspection to ensure proper wire routing techniques were used will save you a huge headache down the road.
One other blurb... are you stuck on using all 4 tweeters in the dash? In my opinion, a woofer in the door, and a tweeter in the dash is optimal. More tweeters are un-necessary if the first set is of good quality. Trimming that down would allow for an easier install of that 5 channel you mentioned.
By the way. A 5 channel amp, though often not as powerful as using separate amps, is a very nice easy way to get a good, clean sounding system.
Pinch
swez on 11/20/2004 21:25:40
Agreed... if you don't know what was done before you got the car in audio mods, often best to either review what was done or do it over so you know exactly what is installed and why.
A 5 channel amp is great for modest bass needs. But if you really desire a strong bass machine, a solid 4 channel and a Class D MONO amp are usually the best option. The catch is matching the power demand of the amps used, to what your electrical system (ALT/BAT) can supply.
Say more and we can try to walk you through some options.
Swez
WOLF on 11/20/2004 22:27:30
I have reviewed a lot of the parts but I haven't got as far as inspecting all of the speakers. I will do so and get back to you. Thanks so far for the help. Greatly Appreciated.
I do not want a "super pounder". All I am looking for in the system is a good sound. I am still toying with the idea of dumping the 15" and the two other tweeters under the dash which I know are aftermarket. This would leave me with just a six speaker set up. I agree I need to go through the system completely.
(Thinking about the six speaker option as I write) Pioneer Premier head unit can only control four speakers correct? This means still needing an amp for the other two? How did the stock system work, do you think the stock head unit was controlling all six stock speakers or was there a stock amp?
I will give you more info soon! Thanks again!
swez on 11/21/2004 09:45:25
Most Chrysler products employ the Infinity Audio system. These consist of matched HU, speakers and power amp to run them. Not a bad system for stock, but Aftermarket can give much more.
Sounds like the original conversion was to aftermarket add ons like the tweeters and sub. Are the door and rear speakers stock?
Most guys want a blend of quality audio from the F&R stage speakers and a sub to add bump in the bass region. Adding quality Component speakers in doors (replace the dual cones) and adding a decent 4 channel amp, will power the front Comps and perhaps the sub too.
A good strategy here, might be a potent 4 channel amp, (~100 RMS x 4) and good Comps up front. The front channels of the amp will power the Comps. The sub(s) can be powered by the rear channel amps. The rear 6x9's can be run off the HU power amps as these are just MB fill only.
Bridging the rear channels on the amp, will net a solid 350-400 watts RMS for a sub. However, the total sub resistance load must be 4 ohms when using a bridged amp.
System suggestions:
4 Channel amp: This one will do a fine job.
http://www.thezeb.com/p-MA-Audio-M489I-Multi-Channel-Amplifier-102551.htm $170.00
Front Comps:
http://www.thezeb.com/p-MA-Audio-Y3K6C-6-1-2-inch-Component-System-102801.htm $80.00/pr.
Sub: What you have now, may work fine if it is a 4 ohm sub. What is the make and model number of that sub? Pull it out and find out what you have back there. If you wish to go with a different sub, make sure it can take the power and is able to meet the 4 ohm target. A single 2+2 Dual coil sub should be easy to find in that power range. If you desire 2 subs for this applications, use a pair of 4+4 DVC's. That will net 4 ohms when wired correctly.
What say you?
Swez
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