anyone out there know a good combination of subs and amp under $1,000 that will get everyones attention? if so please help me out. im lookin for somethin worth my money
Replies (19)
compvr15s on 11/15/2004 21:54:09
are you lookin for just a sub and amp for under 1000 or does that include interior speakers as well as head unit and wires?? if just a sub(s) amp there are many choices out there... may want to check into adireaudio.com at the brahma series sub or reaudio.com and check out the xxx series sub if you want a single sub setup that will outperform most daul sub setups.... these subs are massive, handle lots of power and are still very clean and responisive... what size sub do you want 10s 12s 15s. i think both models mentioned are available in these sizes... and prices go from about 350 up to 450-500, but will produce massive bass from a single driver... and that leaves 500 or so for a sub amp... would recommend atleast a 1200 watt class D mono sub amp... these subs can handle way more but depending on box type 1200 watts will really make them pound... some amps to check into are jbl bp1200.1 very plain but solid performer, probably best bang for your buck high output amp out there... others include kicker 1200.1s. phenoix gold has a new line out called xenon, all the amps are stable from 1 ohm to 4 omh, produce the same power through all the levels... makes for very easy setup, dont have to be too picky on wiring the sub. there are lots of other brands too..... jl audio, audiobanh, rockford fosgate, really just depends on what you want.... explain exaclty what you want to spend the 1000 dollars on and then we can further help you.... wait for others to reply too you will find lots of knowledged people on there, you can learn alot here. good luck
Faded on 11/16/2004 00:18:45
if your limit is about 1000 then here are some really good 15's and some 15's will get some attention from a mile away
check this one out
http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=kic04s15l72&store=&catid=370
really good price for an L7 15
And if your just planning on using one sub here's a good amp to use
http://www.cardomain.com/item/JBLGTO12011
Victor on 11/16/2004 01:30:53
hmm.. good scope with that budget.. i got many combo's on mind.. but something here makes me give u just one of those options..lol..
Sub:- Adire Audio Brahma15
specs---15"
Fs 26 Hz
Qms 5.5
Qes 0.51
Qts 0.47
Vas 113 liters
Dual 2 Ohm voice coils 1.4 Ohms DC Resistance per voice coil
BL 15.9
Sd 749 cm2
Xmax 29mm one way linear
1600W RMS, 4800W peak
NOTE: Power rating is thermal only! It is NOT a power requirement; typically you get full output with significantly less power than the rating.
SPL5 87.6 dB @ 1W, 1m
Diameter 15.5"
Cutout 14.125"
Depth 8.75"
Volume 0.18 cubic feet
Weight 41 pounds
Price $439
with
AMP:- http://www.electronixwarehouse.com/car/sgl-prod/amps/powacoustik/a2400db.htm
thats the best that came to my mind.. there are many more.. equally good or even better than these.. wait for others to contribute their suggestions..
comments...??
Victor...
Victor on 11/16/2004 01:35:04
sorry i forgot to give u the link on the brahma... its
http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/cut%20sheets/Brahma%20Sales%20Brochure.pdf
and the price of the PA amp is around 370$ that makes it to a total of 900$ including shipping.. u got enough money left to build yourself an enclosure for the sub..and some wires too..
NOTE:- YOU WILL DEFINITELY NEED TO UPGRADE THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM OF YOUR CAR.. ALTERNATOR..WIRES, CABLES, BATTERY AND CAPACITORS..
comments...??
Victor...
Victor on 11/16/2004 01:42:31
LOL... as usual i hurried upon a conclusion.. Compvr 15s is right... lets have ur requirement first.. we can suggest you loads of good stuff once we know what u r looking for.. and what do u have at present in your car audio system..
comments...??
Victor...
Faded on 11/16/2004 02:31:51
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_145.html#
now that looks like a bad sub GRIN i just wish i had a 1000$ limit other than about 150$
uochronos on 11/16/2004 03:22:57
Many many fine choices here buy as compvr mentioned we need to know more if this a whole system? HU, interior speaker, interior speaker amp, sub, sub amp? or is it just a mean bass machine you want? sub and sub amp and box?
once we know what you want then we can start in on a plan of attack.
Chronos
b3rto on 11/16/2004 19:15:16
im lookin for 2 12's. i heard good stuff about jl audio but i want something that you could hear from far. the 1000 is for the subs and amp and if i have money left over put more in for component speakers dependin on how much i got left
uochronos on 11/16/2004 22:27:54
wow 1000$ for a sub and amp lol defiantly easy to get good stuff for that...
2 12" subs i would suggest 2 12" JL W6 subs
2 12" adire shivas
2 12" type R subs
2 12" Resonant engineering subs
or you could go with just 1 12" sub 1 12" sub can put out the same amount of volume if you get the right sub
1 adire Brahma sub
1 JL W7
1 Resonant engineering XXX
1 alpine type X
there are some to look into. now keep in mind if you run more then 600watts RMS off a Mono class D or T amp you well need to upgrade your battery and alternator... 300-600$ in upgrades mattering the vehicle.
any of the subs listed above with the proper amp well get you heard from very far away hehe.
Chronos
Victor on 11/17/2004 06:25:28
Some pretty solid choices from Uochronos... but as i have earlier said and as he has suggested too.. Before even thinking of hooking up these monsters you need to look into ur cars electrical system at the present..
you will definitely need a Alt and battery upgrade.
comments...??
Victor...
PS. one of my friend got 2 of these hooked up with a jbl1000.1 in his honda and he easily makes his way thru the indian traffic...http://www.electronixwarehouse.com/car/sgl-prod/speakers/woofers/kole/kmx12.htm
swez on 11/17/2004 08:30:01
We all know JL makes great gear... but not cheap either. There are several alternatives out there at can do very well in your budget range and not have to add more electrical system power to your present car.
Do you know the ALT output for a stock ALT on this vehicle? If not, a quick call to Pep Boys or Auto Zone will tell you what ALT model and power range it has. All you need tell them is the Make, model, year and engine size. Once that info is confirmed, we can make some intelligent recommendations that won't cost an arm and a leg. My guess, this stock ALT is ~80 amperes at max output. About half that at idle. Please confirm.
You can power up to 600 RMS of amp (Class D or T) which draws 50-60A at full power. But, a large CCA rated battery is definitely needed if you stick with Stk ALT.
If you can find a 100-125A ALT upgrade for this car, a larger amp is possible. However, you will still be confined to an amp in the 600-1000 watts (RMS) power range.
600/.9 = 666.67/13.5 = 49.4A current draw (can use stock ALT here)
1000/.9 = 1111/13.5 = 82A current draw at full power (Need more electrical power from ALT/BAT here.
The trick is to blending this all together, using a low-moderate power amp and very high efficiency subs. Something in the order of +90dB @ 1watt/1m will do a fine job. Audiobahn feature many HIGH SPL subs that do not need a huge amp to get them pumping hard.
A low efficiency sub (under 88dB @ 1 watt,) will require a larger amp to reach SPL target. The Kole subs noted by Victor are a good option. A pair of KDC-12 subs will do nice. This is a 4+4 DVCm 400 RMS/ sub and effic of 91dB @1 w. Can be used sealed or ported. A ported enclosure will give you more bass with a solid class D power amp.
http://www.electronixwarehouse.com/car/sgl-prod/speakers/woofers/kole/kdc12.htm $140.00/each
http://www.justwoofers.com/Woofer_Pages/Kole/KOLE_KDC.htm $197.00 for a pair ($100.00/each)
====================================================
If you want to stick with a well proven sub, consider a pair of Alpine SWR-1241d's.
http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/407 $95.00/sub
Specs:
Impedance 4 +4 ohms DCV
Cone Material Kevlar Reinforced Pulp
Surround Material 1" Santoprene Rubber
Sealed Box Volume (cubic feet) 0.7 - 1
Ported Box Volume (cubic feet) 0.75 - 1.75
Port diameter (inches) 4
Port length (inches) 13
Free-Air No
Dual Voice Coil Yes
Sensitivity 87dB
Frequency Response 24 - 1k Hz
RMS Power Range (Watts) 100-300
Peak Power Handling (Watts) 1000
Top Mount Depth (inches) 6 15/16
Bottom Mount Depth (inches) 7 1/2
Cutout Diameter or Length (inches) 10 15/16
Vas (liters) 58
Fs (Hz) 28
Qts 0.43
Xmax (millimeters) 13.87
Parts Warranty 1 year
Labor Warranty 1 year
A cheaper sub, lower efficiency ratings, but in a ported box and 600 RMS amp, a very solid bass machine.
===================================================
There are few choices in subs that can be considered. If you went with a pair of JL 12W3v2'-D4's these are low efficiency sub too. (86.9dB @ 1 watt) but still very good performers... not sure on street price for this sub though.
Swez
Victor on 11/17/2004 17:13:51
hmmm.. theres too many options stated above.. lets start it all over again keeping in mind the guidelines that swez has stated..
what i see as a better option is get an amp with that gives 500 +/- 100 wrms at 4ohms( and is 1 ohms stable).. so that there remains an option to use it at 2ohms or 1ohms to get more power... if u upgrade ur electricals in future..
SUB REQUIREMENTS...:-..in all cases the sub has to be of a higher efficiency.. 90db+
and buy subs which can handle 500wrms+ power..
since u got a nice budget.. why not invest it in equipment which u can be proud of for long..
comments...??
Victor...
b3rto on 11/17/2004 19:37:22
im stickin with the 2 12 jlw6v2 now i need an amp to power them up and get the best out of them.
swez on 11/17/2004 20:30:56
OK, fine sub choice here. Now, we have a new situation to consider. These only come in 4+4 DVC's. That means you get a 1 or 4 ohm load to the amp.
The JL 500/1 will deliver a solid 500 RMS @ 1.5 - 4.0 ohms and draws a max of 50A at rated power. That's an option/feature that hard to beat and it's called R.I.P.S. BTW, there will be very little SPL output difference between a 500 and an 800 watt RMS amp. (less than 2dB)
OK search hounds... can we find this gent a 1 ohm stable Class D/T amp that delivers a clean 500-800 WRMS?
1. Orion 600D $300.00
http://www.justamps.com/Amp_Pages/Orion/Orion_amps.htm
2. JBL BP-600.1 <$300.00 New
of E-bay
That's 3 I can think of for now. Any others we can suggest?
Swez
b3rto on 11/18/2004 20:39:16
il take the jl 500/1. and also instead of upgradin my car electrical system cant i just get a CAP.?
uochronos on 11/18/2004 23:40:54
a cap is absolutly no substitution for a upgraded alternator.and battery. caps are not for power shortages.
Chronos
swez on 11/21/2004 10:31:34
Caps will help with minor light dimming issues. However, for major light dimming, we usually start with upgrading the BAT and some wiring.
An 850 CCA rated BAT is a very good place to start and costs about the same as a 1 Farad Cap. This battery has >2,000,000 times the power storage ability of a 1 Farad Cap.
The wires are next. Upgrade the ALT/BAT, BAT/GND and double the grounding strap from engine block to firewall. Use #4 gage wire here for best performance. The amp will draw under 50A of current at full power, so major electrical upgrades are not needed.
Swez
PS A fine choice of gear here. This system will be something to be proud of when installed.
b3rto on 11/21/2004 11:31:14
thank you for all you help. my friend wants to know if 2 12 kickers (square) will hit hard with a kicker 500.2 amp
swez on 11/21/2004 21:45:36
In a larger vented enclosure, they can be pretty loud. The Kicker website has details on enclosure recommendations for his subs.
That amp will pull a lot more current than your JL 500/1 as well. Why?, it's a Class A/B amp. For every 1000 watts RMS it consumes, it will put out about 55-60% (550-600 watts) in speaker driving power.
Swez
Replies (19)
compvr15s on 11/15/2004 21:54:09
are you lookin for just a sub and amp for under 1000 or does that include interior speakers as well as head unit and wires?? if just a sub(s) amp there are many choices out there... may want to check into adireaudio.com at the brahma series sub or reaudio.com and check out the xxx series sub if you want a single sub setup that will outperform most daul sub setups.... these subs are massive, handle lots of power and are still very clean and responisive... what size sub do you want 10s 12s 15s. i think both models mentioned are available in these sizes... and prices go from about 350 up to 450-500, but will produce massive bass from a single driver... and that leaves 500 or so for a sub amp... would recommend atleast a 1200 watt class D mono sub amp... these subs can handle way more but depending on box type 1200 watts will really make them pound... some amps to check into are jbl bp1200.1 very plain but solid performer, probably best bang for your buck high output amp out there... others include kicker 1200.1s. phenoix gold has a new line out called xenon, all the amps are stable from 1 ohm to 4 omh, produce the same power through all the levels... makes for very easy setup, dont have to be too picky on wiring the sub. there are lots of other brands too..... jl audio, audiobanh, rockford fosgate, really just depends on what you want.... explain exaclty what you want to spend the 1000 dollars on and then we can further help you.... wait for others to reply too you will find lots of knowledged people on there, you can learn alot here. good luck
Faded on 11/16/2004 00:18:45
if your limit is about 1000 then here are some really good 15's and some 15's will get some attention from a mile away
check this one out
http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=kic04s15l72&store=&catid=370
really good price for an L7 15
And if your just planning on using one sub here's a good amp to use
http://www.cardomain.com/item/JBLGTO12011
Victor on 11/16/2004 01:30:53
hmm.. good scope with that budget.. i got many combo's on mind.. but something here makes me give u just one of those options..lol..
Sub:- Adire Audio Brahma15
specs---15"
Fs 26 Hz
Qms 5.5
Qes 0.51
Qts 0.47
Vas 113 liters
Dual 2 Ohm voice coils 1.4 Ohms DC Resistance per voice coil
BL 15.9
Sd 749 cm2
Xmax 29mm one way linear
1600W RMS, 4800W peak
NOTE: Power rating is thermal only! It is NOT a power requirement; typically you get full output with significantly less power than the rating.
SPL5 87.6 dB @ 1W, 1m
Diameter 15.5"
Cutout 14.125"
Depth 8.75"
Volume 0.18 cubic feet
Weight 41 pounds
Price $439
with
AMP:- http://www.electronixwarehouse.com/car/sgl-prod/amps/powacoustik/a2400db.htm
thats the best that came to my mind.. there are many more.. equally good or even better than these.. wait for others to contribute their suggestions..
comments...??
Victor...
Victor on 11/16/2004 01:35:04
sorry i forgot to give u the link on the brahma... its
http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/cut%20sheets/Brahma%20Sales%20Brochure.pdf
and the price of the PA amp is around 370$ that makes it to a total of 900$ including shipping.. u got enough money left to build yourself an enclosure for the sub..and some wires too..
NOTE:- YOU WILL DEFINITELY NEED TO UPGRADE THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM OF YOUR CAR.. ALTERNATOR..WIRES, CABLES, BATTERY AND CAPACITORS..
comments...??
Victor...
Victor on 11/16/2004 01:42:31
LOL... as usual i hurried upon a conclusion.. Compvr 15s is right... lets have ur requirement first.. we can suggest you loads of good stuff once we know what u r looking for.. and what do u have at present in your car audio system..
comments...??
Victor...
Faded on 11/16/2004 02:31:51
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_145.html#
now that looks like a bad sub GRIN i just wish i had a 1000$ limit other than about 150$
uochronos on 11/16/2004 03:22:57
Many many fine choices here buy as compvr mentioned we need to know more if this a whole system? HU, interior speaker, interior speaker amp, sub, sub amp? or is it just a mean bass machine you want? sub and sub amp and box?
once we know what you want then we can start in on a plan of attack.
Chronos
b3rto on 11/16/2004 19:15:16
im lookin for 2 12's. i heard good stuff about jl audio but i want something that you could hear from far. the 1000 is for the subs and amp and if i have money left over put more in for component speakers dependin on how much i got left
uochronos on 11/16/2004 22:27:54
wow 1000$ for a sub and amp lol defiantly easy to get good stuff for that...
2 12" subs i would suggest 2 12" JL W6 subs
2 12" adire shivas
2 12" type R subs
2 12" Resonant engineering subs
or you could go with just 1 12" sub 1 12" sub can put out the same amount of volume if you get the right sub
1 adire Brahma sub
1 JL W7
1 Resonant engineering XXX
1 alpine type X
there are some to look into. now keep in mind if you run more then 600watts RMS off a Mono class D or T amp you well need to upgrade your battery and alternator... 300-600$ in upgrades mattering the vehicle.
any of the subs listed above with the proper amp well get you heard from very far away hehe.
Chronos
Victor on 11/17/2004 06:25:28
Some pretty solid choices from Uochronos... but as i have earlier said and as he has suggested too.. Before even thinking of hooking up these monsters you need to look into ur cars electrical system at the present..
you will definitely need a Alt and battery upgrade.
comments...??
Victor...
PS. one of my friend got 2 of these hooked up with a jbl1000.1 in his honda and he easily makes his way thru the indian traffic...http://www.electronixwarehouse.com/car/sgl-prod/speakers/woofers/kole/kmx12.htm
swez on 11/17/2004 08:30:01
We all know JL makes great gear... but not cheap either. There are several alternatives out there at can do very well in your budget range and not have to add more electrical system power to your present car.
Do you know the ALT output for a stock ALT on this vehicle? If not, a quick call to Pep Boys or Auto Zone will tell you what ALT model and power range it has. All you need tell them is the Make, model, year and engine size. Once that info is confirmed, we can make some intelligent recommendations that won't cost an arm and a leg. My guess, this stock ALT is ~80 amperes at max output. About half that at idle. Please confirm.
You can power up to 600 RMS of amp (Class D or T) which draws 50-60A at full power. But, a large CCA rated battery is definitely needed if you stick with Stk ALT.
If you can find a 100-125A ALT upgrade for this car, a larger amp is possible. However, you will still be confined to an amp in the 600-1000 watts (RMS) power range.
600/.9 = 666.67/13.5 = 49.4A current draw (can use stock ALT here)
1000/.9 = 1111/13.5 = 82A current draw at full power (Need more electrical power from ALT/BAT here.
The trick is to blending this all together, using a low-moderate power amp and very high efficiency subs. Something in the order of +90dB @ 1watt/1m will do a fine job. Audiobahn feature many HIGH SPL subs that do not need a huge amp to get them pumping hard.
A low efficiency sub (under 88dB @ 1 watt,) will require a larger amp to reach SPL target. The Kole subs noted by Victor are a good option. A pair of KDC-12 subs will do nice. This is a 4+4 DVCm 400 RMS/ sub and effic of 91dB @1 w. Can be used sealed or ported. A ported enclosure will give you more bass with a solid class D power amp.
http://www.electronixwarehouse.com/car/sgl-prod/speakers/woofers/kole/kdc12.htm $140.00/each
http://www.justwoofers.com/Woofer_Pages/Kole/KOLE_KDC.htm $197.00 for a pair ($100.00/each)
====================================================
If you want to stick with a well proven sub, consider a pair of Alpine SWR-1241d's.
http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/407 $95.00/sub
Specs:
Impedance 4 +4 ohms DCV
Cone Material Kevlar Reinforced Pulp
Surround Material 1" Santoprene Rubber
Sealed Box Volume (cubic feet) 0.7 - 1
Ported Box Volume (cubic feet) 0.75 - 1.75
Port diameter (inches) 4
Port length (inches) 13
Free-Air No
Dual Voice Coil Yes
Sensitivity 87dB
Frequency Response 24 - 1k Hz
RMS Power Range (Watts) 100-300
Peak Power Handling (Watts) 1000
Top Mount Depth (inches) 6 15/16
Bottom Mount Depth (inches) 7 1/2
Cutout Diameter or Length (inches) 10 15/16
Vas (liters) 58
Fs (Hz) 28
Qts 0.43
Xmax (millimeters) 13.87
Parts Warranty 1 year
Labor Warranty 1 year
A cheaper sub, lower efficiency ratings, but in a ported box and 600 RMS amp, a very solid bass machine.
===================================================
There are few choices in subs that can be considered. If you went with a pair of JL 12W3v2'-D4's these are low efficiency sub too. (86.9dB @ 1 watt) but still very good performers... not sure on street price for this sub though.
Swez
Victor on 11/17/2004 17:13:51
hmmm.. theres too many options stated above.. lets start it all over again keeping in mind the guidelines that swez has stated..
what i see as a better option is get an amp with that gives 500 +/- 100 wrms at 4ohms( and is 1 ohms stable).. so that there remains an option to use it at 2ohms or 1ohms to get more power... if u upgrade ur electricals in future..
SUB REQUIREMENTS...:-..in all cases the sub has to be of a higher efficiency.. 90db+
and buy subs which can handle 500wrms+ power..
since u got a nice budget.. why not invest it in equipment which u can be proud of for long..
comments...??
Victor...
b3rto on 11/17/2004 19:37:22
im stickin with the 2 12 jlw6v2 now i need an amp to power them up and get the best out of them.
swez on 11/17/2004 20:30:56
OK, fine sub choice here. Now, we have a new situation to consider. These only come in 4+4 DVC's. That means you get a 1 or 4 ohm load to the amp.
The JL 500/1 will deliver a solid 500 RMS @ 1.5 - 4.0 ohms and draws a max of 50A at rated power. That's an option/feature that hard to beat and it's called R.I.P.S. BTW, there will be very little SPL output difference between a 500 and an 800 watt RMS amp. (less than 2dB)
OK search hounds... can we find this gent a 1 ohm stable Class D/T amp that delivers a clean 500-800 WRMS?
1. Orion 600D $300.00
http://www.justamps.com/Amp_Pages/Orion/Orion_amps.htm
2. JBL BP-600.1 <$300.00 New
of E-bay
That's 3 I can think of for now. Any others we can suggest?
Swez
b3rto on 11/18/2004 20:39:16
il take the jl 500/1. and also instead of upgradin my car electrical system cant i just get a CAP.?
uochronos on 11/18/2004 23:40:54
a cap is absolutly no substitution for a upgraded alternator.and battery. caps are not for power shortages.
Chronos
swez on 11/21/2004 10:31:34
Caps will help with minor light dimming issues. However, for major light dimming, we usually start with upgrading the BAT and some wiring.
An 850 CCA rated BAT is a very good place to start and costs about the same as a 1 Farad Cap. This battery has >2,000,000 times the power storage ability of a 1 Farad Cap.
The wires are next. Upgrade the ALT/BAT, BAT/GND and double the grounding strap from engine block to firewall. Use #4 gage wire here for best performance. The amp will draw under 50A of current at full power, so major electrical upgrades are not needed.
Swez
PS A fine choice of gear here. This system will be something to be proud of when installed.
b3rto on 11/21/2004 11:31:14
thank you for all you help. my friend wants to know if 2 12 kickers (square) will hit hard with a kicker 500.2 amp
swez on 11/21/2004 21:45:36
In a larger vented enclosure, they can be pretty loud. The Kicker website has details on enclosure recommendations for his subs.
That amp will pull a lot more current than your JL 500/1 as well. Why?, it's a Class A/B amp. For every 1000 watts RMS it consumes, it will put out about 55-60% (550-600 watts) in speaker driving power.
Swez
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