I have a boss audio Rt1035 amp i get power to the amp but no power from the amp to my subs what could the deal be
Replies (12)
uochronos on 11/15/2004 15:39:28
you have power to the ampe your sure? that is the first thing to check and be sure of.
second make sure your getting a signal from your RCA's you can use a portable CD player with a RCA conversion cord and plug the CD player into the amp and see if you get a signal then. if you get a signal then and sound. then its your RCA's that are bad.
check these 2 things first if niether is bad then we can trouble shoot from there.
Chronos
firefig18 on 11/15/2004 15:59:23
i did all that and i still have no power to the subs
danielm87 on 11/15/2004 16:10:39
If you don't have a voltometer, chronos told you the best way to test your RCA's, but to test your amp's ground and power wires, you will need a voltometer. If i'm not mistaken i think they are fairly inexpensive, and come in big handy when amp and sub problems arise.
Second, make it 100% positive that you indeed have the speaker wires hooked to the correct polarity terminals on your amp. If your red(negative) wire is on the positive terminal, this is your problem.
If your amp has a power light, check to make sure it is coming on, if so, then your problem is either your wire connections or your amp is faulty.
Connection possibilities are - ground wire, amp's power wire, RCAs,and the sub wire from its box to the terminals on your amp.
uochronos on 11/15/2004 16:20:41
yes a volt meter or multi meter costs little can get one for as little as 5$ or as much as a couple hundred mattering what you want it to do. the ground and the power should be tested to make sure your getting voltage.
if you are getting power to it for sure, and you have tested the RCA's and are sure they are good.
then time to check the speaker wires and even the remote wire. assuming the amps power on light comes on then the remote is fine. but check all of your speaker wires make sure they are hooked up right... also if ytou have an extra speaker laying around it never hurts to test a differnt speaker on the amp. make sure its still good.
if differnt speaker doesnt work and your getting power for sure. and the RCA's work then well sounds to me like a bad internal component in the amp... unfortuantly.
Chronos
firefig18 on 11/15/2004 16:33:01
i tried the amp in 3 different cars and it does the same thing
the power light is on and there is nothing inside the amp thats looks to be burnt or craked so i have no clue let me know guys
danielm87 on 11/15/2004 16:37:02
A burnt or cracked part doesn't necessarily have to be evident for there to be a problem.
If you've had all you wires hooked up correctly in all 3 cars, then you should have your amp checked out by someone who works on them.
I still think theres a possibility that you could be wiring it up wrong. Maybe your RCAs are bad if you'd used them in all 3 cars.
From there i'll hand it to Chronos, he's the Gold.
uochronos on 11/15/2004 16:57:55
Boss audio is not know for its durability or quality. chances are if in 3 differnt cars all with there own wires and it did not work with any of those setups then there is an internal problem. however if you used same RCA's as Daniel mentioned then get a new set see if that is your problem..
aside from that i'm not sure. maybe Ttocs or swez well know more here.
Chronos
UKinstaller on 11/15/2004 19:27:23
more than likely it's just fried outputs on the amp. once i installed a boss amp in someone's car and it literally started smoking the second it was turned on. they are not the greatest amps.
take it up to a local shop and see if they can test the outputs on it. if you are getting a solid 12volts and your rca's are definitely good, it is probably bad outputs.
as far as backwards positive/negative wires going to the subs. you would still get sound to the subs, they would just sound like crap. but you would definitely be able to tell they were getting power.
finally, have you opened up your sub box and made sure the subs are hooked up or that there are no loose wires?? that could pose a problem as well.
-UK
danielm87 on 11/15/2004 19:31:24
UK is on the job :)
UK- what's your opinion on Coustic amps?
I have an 801DB, it works great.
swez on 11/15/2004 19:35:43
The only test left is a bench test. That means a 12 volt car battery, a known good audio source with RCA connections and a known good speaker.
Can use your truck cigarette lighter as a power source. Just confirm polarity with a meter before you hook up. These are often fused at 25A. Will also need a temporary jumper line from B+ to REM.
If you get nothing on a bench test, it time to buy a buy amp as this one may not be worth fixing. It's not in the Boss website anymore, so it might be a few years old.
However, if you think it's worth repair, figure $60.00 bench fees (min) + parts.
Can you backtrack with us on the last time the amp worked?
Did it just stop working one day?
Did you get it from someone as a DOA?
Did it work before you installed it?
How was it wired? (2 channel or bridged MONO)
What sub(s) were you driving it with and how was/were it/they wired? (Ohmic load)
Swez
UKinstaller on 11/15/2004 21:25:26
Big Dan,
coustic is a brand that a couple of years ago i would avoid at all costs. however, they are really beginning to produce a decent product. while i don't think they will ever make a huge splash in the car audio scene, they are definitely surging past brands such as boss, pyle, roadgear, etc, who we typically see as bottom of the barrel in car audio. while their speakers are not really what i see as "quality", their amps are decent and definitely worth buying.
-UK
danielm87 on 11/15/2004 21:38:36
Yes, UK, i like my 801DB quite a bit, runs cool with no fan, class D, doesnt pull too much at all and looks pretty good too. Puts out 400RMS@4ohms, 800RMS@2ohms. Not bad for 135 bucks total.
Original owner paid like 350$$, desperate for some cash so he sold it to me cheap. Thanks for your input on my question!
-Daniel Myers
Replies (12)
uochronos on 11/15/2004 15:39:28
you have power to the ampe your sure? that is the first thing to check and be sure of.
second make sure your getting a signal from your RCA's you can use a portable CD player with a RCA conversion cord and plug the CD player into the amp and see if you get a signal then. if you get a signal then and sound. then its your RCA's that are bad.
check these 2 things first if niether is bad then we can trouble shoot from there.
Chronos
firefig18 on 11/15/2004 15:59:23
i did all that and i still have no power to the subs
danielm87 on 11/15/2004 16:10:39
If you don't have a voltometer, chronos told you the best way to test your RCA's, but to test your amp's ground and power wires, you will need a voltometer. If i'm not mistaken i think they are fairly inexpensive, and come in big handy when amp and sub problems arise.
Second, make it 100% positive that you indeed have the speaker wires hooked to the correct polarity terminals on your amp. If your red(negative) wire is on the positive terminal, this is your problem.
If your amp has a power light, check to make sure it is coming on, if so, then your problem is either your wire connections or your amp is faulty.
Connection possibilities are - ground wire, amp's power wire, RCAs,and the sub wire from its box to the terminals on your amp.
uochronos on 11/15/2004 16:20:41
yes a volt meter or multi meter costs little can get one for as little as 5$ or as much as a couple hundred mattering what you want it to do. the ground and the power should be tested to make sure your getting voltage.
if you are getting power to it for sure, and you have tested the RCA's and are sure they are good.
then time to check the speaker wires and even the remote wire. assuming the amps power on light comes on then the remote is fine. but check all of your speaker wires make sure they are hooked up right... also if ytou have an extra speaker laying around it never hurts to test a differnt speaker on the amp. make sure its still good.
if differnt speaker doesnt work and your getting power for sure. and the RCA's work then well sounds to me like a bad internal component in the amp... unfortuantly.
Chronos
firefig18 on 11/15/2004 16:33:01
i tried the amp in 3 different cars and it does the same thing
the power light is on and there is nothing inside the amp thats looks to be burnt or craked so i have no clue let me know guys
danielm87 on 11/15/2004 16:37:02
A burnt or cracked part doesn't necessarily have to be evident for there to be a problem.
If you've had all you wires hooked up correctly in all 3 cars, then you should have your amp checked out by someone who works on them.
I still think theres a possibility that you could be wiring it up wrong. Maybe your RCAs are bad if you'd used them in all 3 cars.
From there i'll hand it to Chronos, he's the Gold.
uochronos on 11/15/2004 16:57:55
Boss audio is not know for its durability or quality. chances are if in 3 differnt cars all with there own wires and it did not work with any of those setups then there is an internal problem. however if you used same RCA's as Daniel mentioned then get a new set see if that is your problem..
aside from that i'm not sure. maybe Ttocs or swez well know more here.
Chronos
UKinstaller on 11/15/2004 19:27:23
more than likely it's just fried outputs on the amp. once i installed a boss amp in someone's car and it literally started smoking the second it was turned on. they are not the greatest amps.
take it up to a local shop and see if they can test the outputs on it. if you are getting a solid 12volts and your rca's are definitely good, it is probably bad outputs.
as far as backwards positive/negative wires going to the subs. you would still get sound to the subs, they would just sound like crap. but you would definitely be able to tell they were getting power.
finally, have you opened up your sub box and made sure the subs are hooked up or that there are no loose wires?? that could pose a problem as well.
-UK
danielm87 on 11/15/2004 19:31:24
UK is on the job :)
UK- what's your opinion on Coustic amps?
I have an 801DB, it works great.
swez on 11/15/2004 19:35:43
The only test left is a bench test. That means a 12 volt car battery, a known good audio source with RCA connections and a known good speaker.
Can use your truck cigarette lighter as a power source. Just confirm polarity with a meter before you hook up. These are often fused at 25A. Will also need a temporary jumper line from B+ to REM.
If you get nothing on a bench test, it time to buy a buy amp as this one may not be worth fixing. It's not in the Boss website anymore, so it might be a few years old.
However, if you think it's worth repair, figure $60.00 bench fees (min) + parts.
Can you backtrack with us on the last time the amp worked?
Did it just stop working one day?
Did you get it from someone as a DOA?
Did it work before you installed it?
How was it wired? (2 channel or bridged MONO)
What sub(s) were you driving it with and how was/were it/they wired? (Ohmic load)
Swez
UKinstaller on 11/15/2004 21:25:26
Big Dan,
coustic is a brand that a couple of years ago i would avoid at all costs. however, they are really beginning to produce a decent product. while i don't think they will ever make a huge splash in the car audio scene, they are definitely surging past brands such as boss, pyle, roadgear, etc, who we typically see as bottom of the barrel in car audio. while their speakers are not really what i see as "quality", their amps are decent and definitely worth buying.
-UK
danielm87 on 11/15/2004 21:38:36
Yes, UK, i like my 801DB quite a bit, runs cool with no fan, class D, doesnt pull too much at all and looks pretty good too. Puts out 400RMS@4ohms, 800RMS@2ohms. Not bad for 135 bucks total.
Original owner paid like 350$$, desperate for some cash so he sold it to me cheap. Thanks for your input on my question!
-Daniel Myers
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