hey every doez any1 heard of audiobahn?? i wanna know if there a good company or not?? wit everythin have have cuz i wanna make my whole system by audiobahn i have there subs rite now can sum1 tell me how well.. they are?? thanks
Replies (22)
Relax_The_Mind on 06/27/2003 16:51:31
Yes... I have 2 Audiobahn High Excursion 12" (2001 models) and I love them. As compared to other high end Subwoofers they tend to lack in the SQ area with the exception of the Audiobahn Alum series (my bro has). Although with the right box they sound great.
Sad to say I dont know much about their amps but they are making a scene at car audio comps. Personally, I think their amps are bigger than they should be and a bit cumbersome, but they look great if you like flames (accentuated cheesy smile). They are a good dependable company as far as warranties go. If you get amps Id get the Class D or High current amps as I dont think you would benefit any SQ from class a/b amps and the others can drop to 1 ohm mono.
Needless to say the only thing that I can say on the negative side about them is their new line of gear. Much of the sales are going into looks and High Power ratings. (sales pitch stuff) All in all I think that it is just them trying to make a name for themself as they are a pretty new company in the mainstream market. To be honest I was skeptical about them when I first heard of them and saw how cheap they were going for.
For Audiobahn, box design and dimensions are crucial (ported, sealed, box volume) even though they are listed with a pretty wide range of volumes for sealed enclosures. If you give me your Subwoofer model I can help you out.
I hit ~140-144db with those 2 12" in a cracked box (blew up). Not bad with a box about .5cu^f too small and a hole on both sides (for some reason it sounds better) and ~450rms.
RTM
Swez on 06/27/2003 18:19:44
Bahn has some very good brand name recognition. Their subs are not too bad at all for SPL applications... but SQ is lacking in all but the Alum Series already mentioned.
The component speakers they offer show thoughtful design and well laid out crossovers as well. Not really sure how good they sound in general. I have a pair of 6x8 plates sitting here with no place to use them at the moment. May just build a box and use them as rear fill for my shop system. Just have to figure where they are now??? GRIN
Bahn amps offer (boast) huge power potential in class D and High Current amps... but Bahn is very light on technical support on their web site. They also tend to over rate amp power like the rest of the "GEE WIZZ" glitzy makers do.
In all, a very nice looking package they offer... but some ot the retail prices are a bit out of line with similar or higher end gear. Seems like they want to market and price themselves as major market players, but pander to eye catching designs more than high quality equipment makers out there that under state their producs looks, but make up for same with outstanding performance and rational market pricing structures.
That's my opinon... for what it's worth,
Swez
PS I really wish their web site had more useful links and topics of interest like box design and building specs, performance curves based on Win ISD or LEAP performance testing software. The general product info they offer is so basic, it seems like they are either hiding product deficiencies or don't want to invest the resources to develop a very quality and informative site like JL, RF, Adire and Kicker sites.
Relax_The_Mind on 06/27/2003 19:19:32
Well if you really think about it. I know as far as RF and JL Audio go. Their websites equipment stats and tech sheets were not easily accesible. Only after 2 years did they finally put up full detail specs on their gear even though RF can still lack in some of the needed Technical data fro WinISD applications. Not forgetting how fairly "new" Audiobahn really is in the mainstream car audio market.
Not to mention that many competition also judge on 'looks' and they pretty much have that covered.
I feel like such an audiobahn salesman (w/ my favorite brand of subs being JLs any series). Its just I get a lot of "Audiobahn? I never heard of them, are they any good?" "are they generic subs?" until they actually get a taste of my camaro setup... go figure... Its just that I havent found Audiobahn sold anywhere around in my local or regional...other than online is basically the only place you can find info on or actually purchase them from. I've just had experience with some of their stuff for a little over 2 years and compared to other so called "high end" much higher priced brands they can hold their ground.
RTM
av601 on 06/27/2003 21:14:19
thanks every1 for helpin me out on this rite now i have 2 of there 12s subs there hittin but i dont think im powerin them rite cuz mah subz says there 400rms and mah kenwood 1000w amp only hits 230rms @ 2ohms?? im thinkin gettin da audiobahn amp so it could juice it betta,... da audiobahn amp mod.. iz a8002t wat do u think guyz?? and wat do u mean by SQ?? still dont know so much about systems wise
Swez on 06/27/2003 23:21:51
Here's a perfect example of what is not included in Bahn specs... is this am rated at RMS, peak or other? http://www.audiobahninc.com/frameset.html (Intake series amps)
No fuse rating detail so we know how much current the amp draws and what the amp is likely to produce on the output section. No useful specs at all !!! What the heck are they hiding here?
Looks nice, has glowing hype... but all glitz BS w/o specs that a decent audio engineer can say... Not a bad product or... hummm not sure what they have here. Some good features mentioned... but NO INDICATION OF REAL WORLD PERFORMANCE !!!
SQ = Sound quality... purity of sound, not just ear bleeding loud, but clean, pure audio performance.
How much do they want for this amp anyway and what subs are you planning to run?
Swez
av601 on 06/28/2003 03:12:24
hi swez audiobahn only showz rms neva peak on all there products and im runnin 2 audiobahn 400rms dvcs and da amp i wanna get iz a 800rms by 2ch.. 4 them rite now im still under powerin da subs i think wat do u suggest?? thanks i had an account here b4
Swez on 06/28/2003 19:04:46
OK, I looked a bit deeper into this "Intake" series and yes, you do get 400 RMS per channel at 2 ohms/ch or bridge it Mono and have 800 watts RMS @ 4 ohms.
Not sure what the power input voltage is here, to get that 800 RMS, but am estimating this amp needs what 2x40 amp fuses?
The key here, either have your subs wired for 2 ohms in 2 channel mode or 4 ohms if you choose to bridge this amp. If your subs canot be wired to those loads, look for the Class D MONO amps or High Current versions, as these are generally able to run low ohm loads.
Good luck, and welcome back to the club! SMILE
Swez
av601 on 06/29/2003 15:08:19
hey swez the subs is just goin 2 b wired down 2 2ohms so i could get 400rms cuz mah subs iz only 400 rms i dont have 2 bridge it in2 1 cuz ill b fine thanx swez, o yea... mah head unit turn on and off once and a while either if a press sumthin or not do u know watz causin diz?? i would think u would rememba me cuz i think da last sn name i put was da same lolz
Swez on 06/29/2003 18:32:38
The HU may have a loose connection in the power feed harness, at the fuse panel or if a flip out type... removable face, the connectors get dirty and sometimes can be cleaned up with a pencile eraser and a tooth brush. Obviously, clean the contacts with the power off.
Your name is not so familiar... but your style of writing is unforgetable. It's probably been a while since you last hit this board as it was down for a few months during the Winter. Also, I support 2 boards now and probably answer several hundred posts per week plus personal e-mails on car audio etc.
So.... if I have misplaced you in my memory banks.. no offense as I think I am having more "Senior Moments" these day... that's what happends when you get close to 50 years young... the mind start to slip out of ear once in a while. GRIN
Swez
PS The amp and subs seem to be a very good match for your application. Just be sure to have a large power wire and ground for this amp. I would go no less that #4 gage wire here. If you are planning to add a full range amp later for interior speakers, consider #2 wiring.
av601 on 07/1/2003 00:26:28
hi swez i blieve im da only 1 dat doez dat... lolz ur very tru i had mah system since da winter time and u were helpin me wit it and also there was a time when sum guy was makin fun of u da way ur dress or close to dat hehe kinda 4got 2.... i have tried 2 get on diz page 4 a while but i couldnt cuz da page was down or sumthin wrong wit it im glad u kinda rememba a lil thanx swez ill b needin ur help again when i get a chance 2 get mah interior spkz.....
Swez on 07/1/2003 07:01:12
Too funny... SMILE that was a custom wedge box that Shark and I designed and fabricated last Fall for his Ford F-150. It turn out great and now he has a turbo-diesel F-250 and will be using a new sub design and a pair of 12's.
Yep, was dressed for working in hot weather, so I guess sombody thought I looked like a "Hick". Oh well.. to each his own opinion.
Yes, I do remember you! Nobody has a writing style like yours... very unique, but not hard to understand. When you get ready for the interior speaks, hope you plan for amp too. Anything under 50 watts RMS may not keep up well with your subs. You going Bahn products all the way through the system? (except the HU)
Swez
av601 on 07/1/2003 16:34:25
hehe im da same when ur workin on ur car dont think u wanna dress normal cuz itz gonna dirty it up and stuff ppl just judges 2 much datz all..... i wonder wat kinda new system iz he goin 2 put 4 iz truck
?? yea im goin 2 pretty much make everythin audiobahn but da head unit iz alpline so far i have it runnin... but...... i think i need a new alternator and a higher battery cuz 4 sum reason mah rpm idle iz lower than 800 so i dunnoz watz da problem iz.. da spk... dat im gonna go 4 iz 3 way audiobahn 120 rms each.... soo... i would b usin an amp 4 it.... ill ask u 4 help when i get da spk... 2 install them cuz seemz like around here no1 wantz 2 install audiobahn.... :*(
Swez on 07/1/2003 22:53:59
I have a set of 6x8" Bahns... they are 2 way with crossovers and all built into the driver kit. They are more plate type speakers with 4" midrange and a 1" dome tweeter.
If I recall... these can take gobs of watts too, Never used them as I have no 6x8 needs to date but will hang on to them either to use or sell later. These are HD design and being a plate design, get the performance of a Component driver set, but fit in coaxial applications. Fits Ford installs well or can be modified to fit 6x9" rear deck fills too.
Again, I have never hooked them up and still fresh in a box.... but have yet to try them. If you have a need for same, maybe we can work out a deal. They are serious power speaks.... but as I say, never hooked them up to see what they can really do.
AM SURE THEY ARE ONE OF THE BETTER SQ/SPL SPEAKERS OFFERED BY BAHN.
Swez
Swez
av601 on 07/1/2003 23:50:19
hehe i know u were goin 2 tell me about it cuz u sed u had it b4 on either on mine or sum1 elses how much iz it and wat model??
_Robbob_ on 07/31/2003 12:55:44
Hey sorry this is going to be a long one guys...
I wonder if Audiobahn would be a relativly good choice for my next sub set up...localy I have a lot of friends telling me they are a good SPL sub...curently I've been a great fan of the Kicker L7's for they offer a great low end bass withought the cliping (noise) that many subs like JL and rockfords subs make. I'm split on the choice of giving up the reliable L7 for audiobahn's new line ups including the AWISD-15 or flame Q series 8 sub.
I have a chevy S-10 regular cap and plan on cutting into the bed for the box location....I've got quotes from local shops saying that they'll do everything for under 500 dollars including seal and amp locations...This is great deal! ...but...I have to decide the set up before the box is designed.
I want it to be serious competition but still be able to play tight...Is it posible for me to have one 15 audiobahn for comp and maybe two smaller L7's put in for regular driving...I've never heard of anyone matching diffrent brands of subs in one vehicle so would think there would be cancelation somewhere in the mix...
Any help? I'd like to ask the local shops but they tend to suport only what they sell... which ain't bad because for some of them thats al they have experianced... but for others its money they want.
I trust that you fellows will be of better help here
Swez on 07/31/2003 18:32:27
Most guys use 2 sub systems when they want a daily driver and then swap out to a DB Comps design. In an S-10 PU, that may be very cumbersome to do... but I can visualize an idea...
Use a box within a box design. A large box with removanble face panel. The large box could be speced for your Competition 15" sub. And when done with that for the day, pull the face panel (sub and all) and insert your dual W7's in separate chambers, but the face panel will be the same size and drop right into the larger box.
For Max SPL, port the 15" and have the port mounted through the face panel. When you want to switch back to the daily driver setup, insert the new face panel, wire it and seal it up with a goodly number of screws.
Does that make any sense to you Robbob? Get creative man, as you only have so much space to work in this small truck.
Swez
_Robbob_ on 07/31/2003 20:13:40
As a matter of fact your idea flies better than one i was thinking up a few days ago... I'll actually have most my bed left if it works... Thanks a lot i mean it!
You aren't kinding when it comes to space the largest sub i've been able to fit in the truck is a 10 and even then the seats had to come up a notch....I've even thought about building a box and fraiming it into the back window but it always ends up looking a little ugly on paper that and a little to expensive for what its worth...
P.S. You will never see me with a JL or W7 its a really clever design don't get me wrong. i'll stick to the L7 solobarics or some good ol refrence subs right GRIN oh yeah and thanks
Swez on 07/31/2003 21:26:08
You bet... JL and some of the other "Designer Class" subs are very expensive.... but there are so many good choices out there, if you shop and do your homework. We can help you in this matter... but you need to be reasonably clear on your goals and realistic about install and gear limitations.
Do a good mapping of your available space, figure out what your 15" super boomer needs, and then build your daily driver off that platform. Why reinvent the wheel right?
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress OK?
Swez
compvr15s on 07/31/2003 22:40:17
hey robbob, the L7's arent as great as ya think they are, id definitly recommend compvrs. i had 2 12inch L7s runnin off of 2 kicker kx600.1s and i blew about 8 of them, they were the 2003 model, i ended up trading them for 15 inch comp vrs. they hit alot harder and costs alot less. im not tryin to down the L7s cuz i loved them when i first got them,but there are better subs for the price. ive heard 2 12inch round subs sounded as good as my 2 12s. the box was build to specs by audio shop. just make sure they what ya want before ya spend all that money... good luck
_Robbob_ on 08/2/2003 01:21:56
hmm... I can't figure out how people keep blowing subs...distortion and clipping are easy to hear i think at least it is for me anyways turn that volume down when needed and the subs will last a whole lot longer.......I do have a set of 12 inch CompVr's in a shared vented box too...as noted in the string "voltage problems"
I have heard of people blowing L7's all the time ESP dual sets of 12's and the people i know just happen to hook them up to that same single amp...makes me wonder if theres something really bad about that combo............ I own both an original 10 inch L7 black series and a newer silver. The thing is that the sub is imposible to blow I've had it playing off a Kenwood 200 max amp a Sony old school 400X4 + 130 for the low end amps without problems other than not being able to turn up the volume to far... I found it literly imposible to blow because the sodder leads would melt off the input connectors before the voice coil got anywhere close to frying....For the new one I run a DEI 1100 class D amp...This is a 10 too and I have found it quite loud. I've been a fan of L7's because they cheat a little....instead of having a ~79 inch^2 area like a normal 10 ( ~113 for a single 12)they put out 100 inch^2 thats of course neglecting the mount and rubber suround....
For the CompVR yes i would have to agree that they are louder than the L7s in that combo you mentioned above. I don't think i need to explain why..... CompVRs tend to play bass to high in frequency for my liking which is easy to fix... they also clip easily near the subsonics frequencies and that tends to bug me...might be a voltage problem of mine though...
around here a 12 inch L7 costs only 50 bucks more than a 12 inch set of CompVRs the going price for a 15inch L7 in custom ported box is 450 dollars including install (about $300 w/o box) so yes i guess that the VRs are a nice deal so yeah thanks for pointing that out for me : )
Thanks and goodluck to U too
Swez on 08/2/2003 13:53:04
Blowing subs are usually 2 factors:
1. Too much power and fry the voice coils
2. Wrong enclosure specs.. expecially ported of BP
Addressing the 2nd one first, we have to know the proper recommended sub enclosure size and porting details. A large box will tend to give better low end performance, but power handling will drop as X-max is reached before the voltage to voice coil(s) burn them up. This is usually an issue when we use high output amps, no subsonic fliter and try to run the sub below port tuning frequencies.
The typical failure modes are ... damage spiders or pull away VC's from spider/cone, failed surrounds or seized voice coils that jumped the gap. Sometimes, we see lead wires pulled away from sub cone or terminations too. Too much excursion!
The other item that is common, the enclosure is well speced to the subs, but too much power to the coils. This will usually fry coils or melt the leads off the terminals.
Lastly, one can even fry a potent sub with a smaller amp if the amp is clipping enough. As the amp goes into clipping more, there are voltage spikes well in excess of the amps normal power ratings and the quality of the signal is very poor. Almost a DC voltage of the amp clips bad enough. DC voltage will kill a potent sub faster then plugging the sub into a 120 volt wall socket. No kidding!
Hope that helps,
Swez
_Robbob_ on 08/2/2003 14:57:02
lol I found a nice FAQ thanks to Mr. B's the fact was I was going to hurry up and retract or at least edit my last statement for as always I open my mouth before I understand the full problem.....
Seams you beat me to the finish line anyways I'll leave my statments intact but wish to maybe move it to a new topic other than audiobahn....
For now I have questions on this subject
_Robbob_
Replies (22)
Relax_The_Mind on 06/27/2003 16:51:31
Yes... I have 2 Audiobahn High Excursion 12" (2001 models) and I love them. As compared to other high end Subwoofers they tend to lack in the SQ area with the exception of the Audiobahn Alum series (my bro has). Although with the right box they sound great.
Sad to say I dont know much about their amps but they are making a scene at car audio comps. Personally, I think their amps are bigger than they should be and a bit cumbersome, but they look great if you like flames (accentuated cheesy smile). They are a good dependable company as far as warranties go. If you get amps Id get the Class D or High current amps as I dont think you would benefit any SQ from class a/b amps and the others can drop to 1 ohm mono.
Needless to say the only thing that I can say on the negative side about them is their new line of gear. Much of the sales are going into looks and High Power ratings. (sales pitch stuff) All in all I think that it is just them trying to make a name for themself as they are a pretty new company in the mainstream market. To be honest I was skeptical about them when I first heard of them and saw how cheap they were going for.
For Audiobahn, box design and dimensions are crucial (ported, sealed, box volume) even though they are listed with a pretty wide range of volumes for sealed enclosures. If you give me your Subwoofer model I can help you out.
I hit ~140-144db with those 2 12" in a cracked box (blew up). Not bad with a box about .5cu^f too small and a hole on both sides (for some reason it sounds better) and ~450rms.
RTM
Swez on 06/27/2003 18:19:44
Bahn has some very good brand name recognition. Their subs are not too bad at all for SPL applications... but SQ is lacking in all but the Alum Series already mentioned.
The component speakers they offer show thoughtful design and well laid out crossovers as well. Not really sure how good they sound in general. I have a pair of 6x8 plates sitting here with no place to use them at the moment. May just build a box and use them as rear fill for my shop system. Just have to figure where they are now??? GRIN
Bahn amps offer (boast) huge power potential in class D and High Current amps... but Bahn is very light on technical support on their web site. They also tend to over rate amp power like the rest of the "GEE WIZZ" glitzy makers do.
In all, a very nice looking package they offer... but some ot the retail prices are a bit out of line with similar or higher end gear. Seems like they want to market and price themselves as major market players, but pander to eye catching designs more than high quality equipment makers out there that under state their producs looks, but make up for same with outstanding performance and rational market pricing structures.
That's my opinon... for what it's worth,
Swez
PS I really wish their web site had more useful links and topics of interest like box design and building specs, performance curves based on Win ISD or LEAP performance testing software. The general product info they offer is so basic, it seems like they are either hiding product deficiencies or don't want to invest the resources to develop a very quality and informative site like JL, RF, Adire and Kicker sites.
Relax_The_Mind on 06/27/2003 19:19:32
Well if you really think about it. I know as far as RF and JL Audio go. Their websites equipment stats and tech sheets were not easily accesible. Only after 2 years did they finally put up full detail specs on their gear even though RF can still lack in some of the needed Technical data fro WinISD applications. Not forgetting how fairly "new" Audiobahn really is in the mainstream car audio market.
Not to mention that many competition also judge on 'looks' and they pretty much have that covered.
I feel like such an audiobahn salesman (w/ my favorite brand of subs being JLs any series). Its just I get a lot of "Audiobahn? I never heard of them, are they any good?" "are they generic subs?" until they actually get a taste of my camaro setup... go figure... Its just that I havent found Audiobahn sold anywhere around in my local or regional...other than online is basically the only place you can find info on or actually purchase them from. I've just had experience with some of their stuff for a little over 2 years and compared to other so called "high end" much higher priced brands they can hold their ground.
RTM
av601 on 06/27/2003 21:14:19
thanks every1 for helpin me out on this rite now i have 2 of there 12s subs there hittin but i dont think im powerin them rite cuz mah subz says there 400rms and mah kenwood 1000w amp only hits 230rms @ 2ohms?? im thinkin gettin da audiobahn amp so it could juice it betta,... da audiobahn amp mod.. iz a8002t wat do u think guyz?? and wat do u mean by SQ?? still dont know so much about systems wise
Swez on 06/27/2003 23:21:51
Here's a perfect example of what is not included in Bahn specs... is this am rated at RMS, peak or other? http://www.audiobahninc.com/frameset.html (Intake series amps)
No fuse rating detail so we know how much current the amp draws and what the amp is likely to produce on the output section. No useful specs at all !!! What the heck are they hiding here?
Looks nice, has glowing hype... but all glitz BS w/o specs that a decent audio engineer can say... Not a bad product or... hummm not sure what they have here. Some good features mentioned... but NO INDICATION OF REAL WORLD PERFORMANCE !!!
SQ = Sound quality... purity of sound, not just ear bleeding loud, but clean, pure audio performance.
How much do they want for this amp anyway and what subs are you planning to run?
Swez
av601 on 06/28/2003 03:12:24
hi swez audiobahn only showz rms neva peak on all there products and im runnin 2 audiobahn 400rms dvcs and da amp i wanna get iz a 800rms by 2ch.. 4 them rite now im still under powerin da subs i think wat do u suggest?? thanks i had an account here b4
Swez on 06/28/2003 19:04:46
OK, I looked a bit deeper into this "Intake" series and yes, you do get 400 RMS per channel at 2 ohms/ch or bridge it Mono and have 800 watts RMS @ 4 ohms.
Not sure what the power input voltage is here, to get that 800 RMS, but am estimating this amp needs what 2x40 amp fuses?
The key here, either have your subs wired for 2 ohms in 2 channel mode or 4 ohms if you choose to bridge this amp. If your subs canot be wired to those loads, look for the Class D MONO amps or High Current versions, as these are generally able to run low ohm loads.
Good luck, and welcome back to the club! SMILE
Swez
av601 on 06/29/2003 15:08:19
hey swez the subs is just goin 2 b wired down 2 2ohms so i could get 400rms cuz mah subs iz only 400 rms i dont have 2 bridge it in2 1 cuz ill b fine thanx swez, o yea... mah head unit turn on and off once and a while either if a press sumthin or not do u know watz causin diz?? i would think u would rememba me cuz i think da last sn name i put was da same lolz
Swez on 06/29/2003 18:32:38
The HU may have a loose connection in the power feed harness, at the fuse panel or if a flip out type... removable face, the connectors get dirty and sometimes can be cleaned up with a pencile eraser and a tooth brush. Obviously, clean the contacts with the power off.
Your name is not so familiar... but your style of writing is unforgetable. It's probably been a while since you last hit this board as it was down for a few months during the Winter. Also, I support 2 boards now and probably answer several hundred posts per week plus personal e-mails on car audio etc.
So.... if I have misplaced you in my memory banks.. no offense as I think I am having more "Senior Moments" these day... that's what happends when you get close to 50 years young... the mind start to slip out of ear once in a while. GRIN
Swez
PS The amp and subs seem to be a very good match for your application. Just be sure to have a large power wire and ground for this amp. I would go no less that #4 gage wire here. If you are planning to add a full range amp later for interior speakers, consider #2 wiring.
av601 on 07/1/2003 00:26:28
hi swez i blieve im da only 1 dat doez dat... lolz ur very tru i had mah system since da winter time and u were helpin me wit it and also there was a time when sum guy was makin fun of u da way ur dress or close to dat hehe kinda 4got 2.... i have tried 2 get on diz page 4 a while but i couldnt cuz da page was down or sumthin wrong wit it im glad u kinda rememba a lil thanx swez ill b needin ur help again when i get a chance 2 get mah interior spkz.....
Swez on 07/1/2003 07:01:12
Too funny... SMILE that was a custom wedge box that Shark and I designed and fabricated last Fall for his Ford F-150. It turn out great and now he has a turbo-diesel F-250 and will be using a new sub design and a pair of 12's.
Yep, was dressed for working in hot weather, so I guess sombody thought I looked like a "Hick". Oh well.. to each his own opinion.
Yes, I do remember you! Nobody has a writing style like yours... very unique, but not hard to understand. When you get ready for the interior speaks, hope you plan for amp too. Anything under 50 watts RMS may not keep up well with your subs. You going Bahn products all the way through the system? (except the HU)
Swez
av601 on 07/1/2003 16:34:25
hehe im da same when ur workin on ur car dont think u wanna dress normal cuz itz gonna dirty it up and stuff ppl just judges 2 much datz all..... i wonder wat kinda new system iz he goin 2 put 4 iz truck
?? yea im goin 2 pretty much make everythin audiobahn but da head unit iz alpline so far i have it runnin... but...... i think i need a new alternator and a higher battery cuz 4 sum reason mah rpm idle iz lower than 800 so i dunnoz watz da problem iz.. da spk... dat im gonna go 4 iz 3 way audiobahn 120 rms each.... soo... i would b usin an amp 4 it.... ill ask u 4 help when i get da spk... 2 install them cuz seemz like around here no1 wantz 2 install audiobahn.... :*(
Swez on 07/1/2003 22:53:59
I have a set of 6x8" Bahns... they are 2 way with crossovers and all built into the driver kit. They are more plate type speakers with 4" midrange and a 1" dome tweeter.
If I recall... these can take gobs of watts too, Never used them as I have no 6x8 needs to date but will hang on to them either to use or sell later. These are HD design and being a plate design, get the performance of a Component driver set, but fit in coaxial applications. Fits Ford installs well or can be modified to fit 6x9" rear deck fills too.
Again, I have never hooked them up and still fresh in a box.... but have yet to try them. If you have a need for same, maybe we can work out a deal. They are serious power speaks.... but as I say, never hooked them up to see what they can really do.
AM SURE THEY ARE ONE OF THE BETTER SQ/SPL SPEAKERS OFFERED BY BAHN.
Swez
Swez
av601 on 07/1/2003 23:50:19
hehe i know u were goin 2 tell me about it cuz u sed u had it b4 on either on mine or sum1 elses how much iz it and wat model??
_Robbob_ on 07/31/2003 12:55:44
Hey sorry this is going to be a long one guys...
I wonder if Audiobahn would be a relativly good choice for my next sub set up...localy I have a lot of friends telling me they are a good SPL sub...curently I've been a great fan of the Kicker L7's for they offer a great low end bass withought the cliping (noise) that many subs like JL and rockfords subs make. I'm split on the choice of giving up the reliable L7 for audiobahn's new line ups including the AWISD-15 or flame Q series 8 sub.
I have a chevy S-10 regular cap and plan on cutting into the bed for the box location....I've got quotes from local shops saying that they'll do everything for under 500 dollars including seal and amp locations...This is great deal! ...but...I have to decide the set up before the box is designed.
I want it to be serious competition but still be able to play tight...Is it posible for me to have one 15 audiobahn for comp and maybe two smaller L7's put in for regular driving...I've never heard of anyone matching diffrent brands of subs in one vehicle so would think there would be cancelation somewhere in the mix...
Any help? I'd like to ask the local shops but they tend to suport only what they sell... which ain't bad because for some of them thats al they have experianced... but for others its money they want.
I trust that you fellows will be of better help here
Swez on 07/31/2003 18:32:27
Most guys use 2 sub systems when they want a daily driver and then swap out to a DB Comps design. In an S-10 PU, that may be very cumbersome to do... but I can visualize an idea...
Use a box within a box design. A large box with removanble face panel. The large box could be speced for your Competition 15" sub. And when done with that for the day, pull the face panel (sub and all) and insert your dual W7's in separate chambers, but the face panel will be the same size and drop right into the larger box.
For Max SPL, port the 15" and have the port mounted through the face panel. When you want to switch back to the daily driver setup, insert the new face panel, wire it and seal it up with a goodly number of screws.
Does that make any sense to you Robbob? Get creative man, as you only have so much space to work in this small truck.
Swez
_Robbob_ on 07/31/2003 20:13:40
As a matter of fact your idea flies better than one i was thinking up a few days ago... I'll actually have most my bed left if it works... Thanks a lot i mean it!
You aren't kinding when it comes to space the largest sub i've been able to fit in the truck is a 10 and even then the seats had to come up a notch....I've even thought about building a box and fraiming it into the back window but it always ends up looking a little ugly on paper that and a little to expensive for what its worth...
P.S. You will never see me with a JL or W7 its a really clever design don't get me wrong. i'll stick to the L7 solobarics or some good ol refrence subs right GRIN oh yeah and thanks
Swez on 07/31/2003 21:26:08
You bet... JL and some of the other "Designer Class" subs are very expensive.... but there are so many good choices out there, if you shop and do your homework. We can help you in this matter... but you need to be reasonably clear on your goals and realistic about install and gear limitations.
Do a good mapping of your available space, figure out what your 15" super boomer needs, and then build your daily driver off that platform. Why reinvent the wheel right?
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress OK?
Swez
compvr15s on 07/31/2003 22:40:17
hey robbob, the L7's arent as great as ya think they are, id definitly recommend compvrs. i had 2 12inch L7s runnin off of 2 kicker kx600.1s and i blew about 8 of them, they were the 2003 model, i ended up trading them for 15 inch comp vrs. they hit alot harder and costs alot less. im not tryin to down the L7s cuz i loved them when i first got them,but there are better subs for the price. ive heard 2 12inch round subs sounded as good as my 2 12s. the box was build to specs by audio shop. just make sure they what ya want before ya spend all that money... good luck
_Robbob_ on 08/2/2003 01:21:56
hmm... I can't figure out how people keep blowing subs...distortion and clipping are easy to hear i think at least it is for me anyways turn that volume down when needed and the subs will last a whole lot longer.......I do have a set of 12 inch CompVr's in a shared vented box too...as noted in the string "voltage problems"
I have heard of people blowing L7's all the time ESP dual sets of 12's and the people i know just happen to hook them up to that same single amp...makes me wonder if theres something really bad about that combo............ I own both an original 10 inch L7 black series and a newer silver. The thing is that the sub is imposible to blow I've had it playing off a Kenwood 200 max amp a Sony old school 400X4 + 130 for the low end amps without problems other than not being able to turn up the volume to far... I found it literly imposible to blow because the sodder leads would melt off the input connectors before the voice coil got anywhere close to frying....For the new one I run a DEI 1100 class D amp...This is a 10 too and I have found it quite loud. I've been a fan of L7's because they cheat a little....instead of having a ~79 inch^2 area like a normal 10 ( ~113 for a single 12)they put out 100 inch^2 thats of course neglecting the mount and rubber suround....
For the CompVR yes i would have to agree that they are louder than the L7s in that combo you mentioned above. I don't think i need to explain why..... CompVRs tend to play bass to high in frequency for my liking which is easy to fix... they also clip easily near the subsonics frequencies and that tends to bug me...might be a voltage problem of mine though...
around here a 12 inch L7 costs only 50 bucks more than a 12 inch set of CompVRs the going price for a 15inch L7 in custom ported box is 450 dollars including install (about $300 w/o box) so yes i guess that the VRs are a nice deal so yeah thanks for pointing that out for me : )
Thanks and goodluck to U too
Swez on 08/2/2003 13:53:04
Blowing subs are usually 2 factors:
1. Too much power and fry the voice coils
2. Wrong enclosure specs.. expecially ported of BP
Addressing the 2nd one first, we have to know the proper recommended sub enclosure size and porting details. A large box will tend to give better low end performance, but power handling will drop as X-max is reached before the voltage to voice coil(s) burn them up. This is usually an issue when we use high output amps, no subsonic fliter and try to run the sub below port tuning frequencies.
The typical failure modes are ... damage spiders or pull away VC's from spider/cone, failed surrounds or seized voice coils that jumped the gap. Sometimes, we see lead wires pulled away from sub cone or terminations too. Too much excursion!
The other item that is common, the enclosure is well speced to the subs, but too much power to the coils. This will usually fry coils or melt the leads off the terminals.
Lastly, one can even fry a potent sub with a smaller amp if the amp is clipping enough. As the amp goes into clipping more, there are voltage spikes well in excess of the amps normal power ratings and the quality of the signal is very poor. Almost a DC voltage of the amp clips bad enough. DC voltage will kill a potent sub faster then plugging the sub into a 120 volt wall socket. No kidding!
Hope that helps,
Swez
_Robbob_ on 08/2/2003 14:57:02
lol I found a nice FAQ thanks to Mr. B's the fact was I was going to hurry up and retract or at least edit my last statement for as always I open my mouth before I understand the full problem.....
Seams you beat me to the finish line anyways I'll leave my statments intact but wish to maybe move it to a new topic other than audiobahn....
For now I have questions on this subject
_Robbob_
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
