i just took my system out of my car until i get my new amp and sub and box and im just gonna get a new wiring kit too could the power wire that melted through if that wire was touching metal would that make my subs boom without my cd player being on?
sorry that i ask so many questions and start so many new topic questions i just ALWAYS have trouble with my system. When i get everything around christmas time i dont wanna have to fix it all the time im only 17 i dont know everything about car audio but im learning i know alot but not all obviously
Replies (4)
ttocs on 11/5/2004 01:20:57
its signal related, not pwr.
Did the rca's not do anything?
Faded on 11/5/2004 02:17:30
no i took them out but i didnt have any new ones but i hooked my old ones up outside the car like you said but that didnt do anything either i dunno i found a really good setup that i can afford its only going to be 169.99 and free shipping on the sub a 15 GRIN and not a 12 i was only gonna get a 12 cuz i couldnt afford a decent 15 How is Alphasonic?
http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=alppsw415&rpc=367&catid=370&store= ---15
http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=proap1000&rpc=302&catid=308&store= ----Amp
and im thinking about making my own box insted of getting street sounds (audio store here) to do it he told me it would cost about 100bucks for them to build a ported box for a 15 i think i could make one just as good for less than that..... i think
swez on 11/5/2004 12:39:09
Not sure I understand your first issue on power wire. Did it melt the jacket and short to metal? (ground) If yes, that should have blown the fuse near the BAT. That's what that fuse is for!
Also, if there was a short of power to ground, The RCA's that connect between HU and amp could also have seen a large DC spike before the fuse blew. That could damage the Amp or the HU an other electricals in the car.
See, the ground on RCA's are connected to HU and HU is also grounded to body. So, there is a common ground path between body and all electricals in the car system. The Audio stages from HU to amp are AC voltage. (pretty low too...~2-4 volts) But, if the amp sees DC as an input signal and it is very strong, could wipe out the preamp circuits in amp. The HU uses a floating ground system and may not be so affected. But if the amp gets a jolt of strong DC voltage to the input preamp stage... something has to give.
The sub noted seems like a useful product. Would need a bit more details on sub to determine if it is suitable for ported enclosure and what size.
The amp noted is not a good choice for this sub. It is a two channel amp and "maybe" <500 watts (RMS) when bridged. However, if you bridge the amp MONO, need a 4 ohm load to get the most from this amp. Best you can do is wire 1 coil to each channel or bridge the amp and wire it for 8 ohms. (that's about 250 RMS to the sub, either way you slice it)
Look for a Class D MONO amp that is 2 ohm stable and at least 500 RMS @ 2 ohms
1. Kicker Kx600.1 (E-bay)
2. JBL BP-600.1 (Ebay or Ikesound)
3. MA Audio M1883I Mono Subwoofer Amplifier
Keep digging,
Swez
http://www.thezeb.com/p-MA-Audio-M1883I-Mono-Subwoofer-Amplifier-102546.htm
Faded on 11/5/2004 13:24:29
i wish i could get something like that but the profile amp is 98$ and thats a resonable price rang for me i cant get a amp thats 165$ or 200$ trust me if i could spend how ever much i wanted i would be getting this http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=alppsw815&store=&catid=370
insted of my sub that i have picked out and a better amp but my price range is about 200 tops 169 is what im paying for the profile and the alphasonic
sorry that i ask so many questions and start so many new topic questions i just ALWAYS have trouble with my system. When i get everything around christmas time i dont wanna have to fix it all the time im only 17 i dont know everything about car audio but im learning i know alot but not all obviously
Replies (4)
ttocs on 11/5/2004 01:20:57
its signal related, not pwr.
Did the rca's not do anything?
Faded on 11/5/2004 02:17:30
no i took them out but i didnt have any new ones but i hooked my old ones up outside the car like you said but that didnt do anything either i dunno i found a really good setup that i can afford its only going to be 169.99 and free shipping on the sub a 15 GRIN and not a 12 i was only gonna get a 12 cuz i couldnt afford a decent 15 How is Alphasonic?
http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=alppsw415&rpc=367&catid=370&store= ---15
http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=proap1000&rpc=302&catid=308&store= ----Amp
and im thinking about making my own box insted of getting street sounds (audio store here) to do it he told me it would cost about 100bucks for them to build a ported box for a 15 i think i could make one just as good for less than that..... i think
swez on 11/5/2004 12:39:09
Not sure I understand your first issue on power wire. Did it melt the jacket and short to metal? (ground) If yes, that should have blown the fuse near the BAT. That's what that fuse is for!
Also, if there was a short of power to ground, The RCA's that connect between HU and amp could also have seen a large DC spike before the fuse blew. That could damage the Amp or the HU an other electricals in the car.
See, the ground on RCA's are connected to HU and HU is also grounded to body. So, there is a common ground path between body and all electricals in the car system. The Audio stages from HU to amp are AC voltage. (pretty low too...~2-4 volts) But, if the amp sees DC as an input signal and it is very strong, could wipe out the preamp circuits in amp. The HU uses a floating ground system and may not be so affected. But if the amp gets a jolt of strong DC voltage to the input preamp stage... something has to give.
The sub noted seems like a useful product. Would need a bit more details on sub to determine if it is suitable for ported enclosure and what size.
The amp noted is not a good choice for this sub. It is a two channel amp and "maybe" <500 watts (RMS) when bridged. However, if you bridge the amp MONO, need a 4 ohm load to get the most from this amp. Best you can do is wire 1 coil to each channel or bridge the amp and wire it for 8 ohms. (that's about 250 RMS to the sub, either way you slice it)
Look for a Class D MONO amp that is 2 ohm stable and at least 500 RMS @ 2 ohms
1. Kicker Kx600.1 (E-bay)
2. JBL BP-600.1 (Ebay or Ikesound)
3. MA Audio M1883I Mono Subwoofer Amplifier
Keep digging,
Swez
http://www.thezeb.com/p-MA-Audio-M1883I-Mono-Subwoofer-Amplifier-102546.htm
Faded on 11/5/2004 13:24:29
i wish i could get something like that but the profile amp is 98$ and thats a resonable price rang for me i cant get a amp thats 165$ or 200$ trust me if i could spend how ever much i wanted i would be getting this http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=alppsw815&store=&catid=370
insted of my sub that i have picked out and a better amp but my price range is about 200 tops 169 is what im paying for the profile and the alphasonic
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