What is the reccomended, or proven best, cubic feet in a single enclosure for an Audiobahn AWES15P?
I want a perfect box with the most bass possible for my big sub.
Replies (10)
uochronos on 11/2/2004 15:45:12
1.5 sealed recomended, 1.6 minimum ported 2.95 max ported... where are you puting this sub? in the C-10 pickup? how are you getting it to fit is so. this sub well not even fit behind the seat.
also if you have not looked into it you well need a 1000+watt rms amp to power this sub an amp that big well need electrical upgrades new battery, wires, alternator...
Chronos
danielm87 on 11/2/2004 17:52:21
Yeah, i have one of these subs sitting around, i reckon i'll put it on the seat, in front of the shifter, nobody sits there anyways.
a 2 farad cap will do just fine with a 100amp range ALT
uochronos on 11/3/2004 02:24:54
umm a 1200watt rms amp pulls at least 100amps of current at max volume a simple cap well not help here. i suggest you look into an alternator i got a 200amp alt for my truck for only 200$ on ebay and it works buitifully.
good rule of thumb is your stock electrical needs 50amp and then add your amp on top of that thats 150amps of power needed minimum tto run your system...
good placement for sub i would think... i suggest facing it up you well get better sound out of it as aposed to forward towards the dash it well rattlle more stuff pointing at dash.
Chronos
danielm87 on 11/3/2004 16:57:08
I dunno what chronos is smokin but my amplifier is 400RMS@4ohms , 800RMS@2ohms. I will only be running 400watts to the sub. A subwoofer only uses the amount of power that is given to it by an amplifier ...? plus any power it would use without one ...?
Eh correct me if i'm wrong but theres no real need for a new alternator or anything in my case, reference to my 1st and 2nd post on this topic.
danielm87 on 11/3/2004 17:02:57
BTW, what you referred to as "my stock electrical" , doesnt exist. The alternator powers ultimately nothing, my headlights only, no other electronics are functionable, its a custom deluxe, so, even if all the electrical stuff did work, only a cab light and a very terrible inst. cluster backlight would exist to be powered. My knowledge tells me surely theres other engine components that the ALT must power, so, im not trying to act like a democrat and point out everything you do or say wrong in a sad sad attempt to win over the american public. okay sorry folks i got carried away with that.
at least BUSH WON!!!
uochronos on 11/3/2004 17:30:55
i do not apriciate the "what i'm smoking" post i'am here to help you and if my help is unwelcome i well not respond any further to any of your posts..
i had a 500watt amp and it would kill my 93 probe with a 100amp alternator it died dead in 2 intersections. so an 800watt rms amp at high volume is capable of causeing electrical problems. second you never mentioned your amp you said it was a 1300watts rms sub which it is why would i think you where underpowering it???
second your alternator powers your engine! the engine draws power via the spark plugs... you know the things that make the engine go bang. that pulls a good chunk of ampage especialy in older vehicles. then there is the stereo HU itself pulls upwards of 5-10amps. then there is any other electical systems that may be installed on it sensors computers etc. the stock electricals that run your truck pull at least 30-50amps. we are nmot talking about extras.
so lets go low ball here your truck pulls 30amps for itself the HU pulls 5amps and the amp pulls 70 amps at high volume... thats lets say 105 amps... you have a 100amp alt thats pulling 5 more amps then your alt can produce and then you turn head lights on, heater, windshield wipers, or anything else you may have and the car well defiantly die on you. you simply can not pull more power then the alt can produce.
I have been on this forum for 2 years and i have been doing this stuff for 4 years i know my stuff and i dont enoy being insulted by you. if you cant be nice to the people helping you here and maybe ask why we say it and not say we are wrong before you know then i dont wish to have anything further to do with you myself.
Chronos
PS
i never insulted you once.
danielm87 on 11/3/2004 18:04:19
Yikes, i really never meant to insult anyone at all, nothing i said was even directed to you in an insulting fashion. I apologize though, that phrase i used is an analogical joke i've said since i was bout 5 years old. I'm a 19 yr old from knoxville tennessee sorry i guess my day to day word usage aint like most peoples. My bad man. although i have to say, if i WAS out to get you - you definitely defend yourself nicely and in a mature fashion. Yes, i realize all the blue ribbon guys on here are experts and i am a mere beginner.
Thanks for the info, that last post put my alternator usage into accurate perspective for my case.
Alright, say i put some of that water beading stuff on my windshield and try to stay away from rain and only use my wipers when i absolutely have to. My truck only has defrost, not to be used anyhow.
Unfortunately for me, theres no substitution for headlights, and i reallllllly doubt that my 87 custom deluxe even has a stock 75 amp ALT at best, which wouldnt be near enough for the system. So, you win, any suggestions as to where i could go about finding a 115-150 alternator?
P.S. - Take a chill pill
(hopefully by now you know thats a joke)
uochronos on 11/3/2004 18:21:24
yes i normaly dont get so offended i just get a bit jumpy when people ask for advise then dont seem to accept it as truth.. wipers, interior lights, etc are all small they pull tiny amounts of current the engine itself the computer and the head lights pull the majority of the juice... my buddy had a 86 S-10 and it had an 80amp alt so you probaly have some thing in the 80-90amp range..
many places to get upgrade alternators for some vehicles you can get up to a 140-150amp alt from napa, pep boys, autozone, etc. for reasonable. i got mine on ebay from a company on the east coast got a 200amp alt for 200$ with liftime warranty.. you probaly with a 800watt amp only need like a 120-150amp alternator. which should be cheaper hehe. just look on ebay for people saleing alot of alternators then ask if they can get or build one with your specifications thats what i did.... i well see if i can dig up the name of the guy i got mine from...
Chronos
PS
as for the water beading stuff on the windshield i personaly use it alot its great on the highway but intown it doesnt work great right on the bottle it says it doesnt start working well till 30mph which means at stop lights and slow side streets visibility is very low. just a warning to be carefull
swez on 11/3/2004 20:42:17
Daniel,
Why not confirm what ALT power you actually have before taking any major steps to add audio gear to this vehicle. Can take your truck to most good autoparts centers (PepBoys, Autozone, etc.) and have them run a dynamic ALT/BAT test. (Free) This will confirm how much output your ALT actually has. It will be low output at idle, but at ~2,000 RPM, should be pretty much be max output. Knowing those numbers will lead to the next part of the install. (upgrade the ALT/BAt or press on with amp install)
A 400 watt Class A/B amp (typical 2 channel amp) will draw upwards of 64A current at full output. If you go to 800 watts (RMS) the amount is double that. (~50% efficient in Class A/B amps)
http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
However, a Class D (sub applications only) of the same power rating is much more efficient. A typical 400 watt (RMS) amp will pull a max of just under 40A. (almost 90% efficient)
A "stripped" truck may only need 35-45A to operate the basics. So, there's your basic outline to start.... find out how many amperes of current your present ALT can supply. The next step, depends on that part of the equation.
Swez
PS You guys handled the "misunderstanding" very well. Daniel... we run a very repectful board here. Sure we can take a joke, if we know it to be one. But, being new to the board, just realize we (Golds) are all skilled techs that "donate our time" to help others.
Chronos has been a strong supporter here for 2 years now. I think he is on the "edge" about something of late... but he'll get through it alright. I saw the humor in your post... but then again, it was not directed at me. In all, you guys handled it well! Good job!
danielm87 on 11/3/2004 21:04:34
Eh thanks bud, i think i'll go ahead and get a 150, for any additions i make. How much current would a set of Pioneer TS-A4103 4X10s pull?
yeah my dads got that beading stuff on his camry, crazy how well it works, only while doing 30+ like you said.
I want a perfect box with the most bass possible for my big sub.
Replies (10)
uochronos on 11/2/2004 15:45:12
1.5 sealed recomended, 1.6 minimum ported 2.95 max ported... where are you puting this sub? in the C-10 pickup? how are you getting it to fit is so. this sub well not even fit behind the seat.
also if you have not looked into it you well need a 1000+watt rms amp to power this sub an amp that big well need electrical upgrades new battery, wires, alternator...
Chronos
danielm87 on 11/2/2004 17:52:21
Yeah, i have one of these subs sitting around, i reckon i'll put it on the seat, in front of the shifter, nobody sits there anyways.
a 2 farad cap will do just fine with a 100amp range ALT
uochronos on 11/3/2004 02:24:54
umm a 1200watt rms amp pulls at least 100amps of current at max volume a simple cap well not help here. i suggest you look into an alternator i got a 200amp alt for my truck for only 200$ on ebay and it works buitifully.
good rule of thumb is your stock electrical needs 50amp and then add your amp on top of that thats 150amps of power needed minimum tto run your system...
good placement for sub i would think... i suggest facing it up you well get better sound out of it as aposed to forward towards the dash it well rattlle more stuff pointing at dash.
Chronos
danielm87 on 11/3/2004 16:57:08
I dunno what chronos is smokin but my amplifier is 400RMS@4ohms , 800RMS@2ohms. I will only be running 400watts to the sub. A subwoofer only uses the amount of power that is given to it by an amplifier ...? plus any power it would use without one ...?
Eh correct me if i'm wrong but theres no real need for a new alternator or anything in my case, reference to my 1st and 2nd post on this topic.
danielm87 on 11/3/2004 17:02:57
BTW, what you referred to as "my stock electrical" , doesnt exist. The alternator powers ultimately nothing, my headlights only, no other electronics are functionable, its a custom deluxe, so, even if all the electrical stuff did work, only a cab light and a very terrible inst. cluster backlight would exist to be powered. My knowledge tells me surely theres other engine components that the ALT must power, so, im not trying to act like a democrat and point out everything you do or say wrong in a sad sad attempt to win over the american public. okay sorry folks i got carried away with that.
at least BUSH WON!!!
uochronos on 11/3/2004 17:30:55
i do not apriciate the "what i'm smoking" post i'am here to help you and if my help is unwelcome i well not respond any further to any of your posts..
i had a 500watt amp and it would kill my 93 probe with a 100amp alternator it died dead in 2 intersections. so an 800watt rms amp at high volume is capable of causeing electrical problems. second you never mentioned your amp you said it was a 1300watts rms sub which it is why would i think you where underpowering it???
second your alternator powers your engine! the engine draws power via the spark plugs... you know the things that make the engine go bang. that pulls a good chunk of ampage especialy in older vehicles. then there is the stereo HU itself pulls upwards of 5-10amps. then there is any other electical systems that may be installed on it sensors computers etc. the stock electricals that run your truck pull at least 30-50amps. we are nmot talking about extras.
so lets go low ball here your truck pulls 30amps for itself the HU pulls 5amps and the amp pulls 70 amps at high volume... thats lets say 105 amps... you have a 100amp alt thats pulling 5 more amps then your alt can produce and then you turn head lights on, heater, windshield wipers, or anything else you may have and the car well defiantly die on you. you simply can not pull more power then the alt can produce.
I have been on this forum for 2 years and i have been doing this stuff for 4 years i know my stuff and i dont enoy being insulted by you. if you cant be nice to the people helping you here and maybe ask why we say it and not say we are wrong before you know then i dont wish to have anything further to do with you myself.
Chronos
PS
i never insulted you once.
danielm87 on 11/3/2004 18:04:19
Yikes, i really never meant to insult anyone at all, nothing i said was even directed to you in an insulting fashion. I apologize though, that phrase i used is an analogical joke i've said since i was bout 5 years old. I'm a 19 yr old from knoxville tennessee sorry i guess my day to day word usage aint like most peoples. My bad man. although i have to say, if i WAS out to get you - you definitely defend yourself nicely and in a mature fashion. Yes, i realize all the blue ribbon guys on here are experts and i am a mere beginner.
Thanks for the info, that last post put my alternator usage into accurate perspective for my case.
Alright, say i put some of that water beading stuff on my windshield and try to stay away from rain and only use my wipers when i absolutely have to. My truck only has defrost, not to be used anyhow.
Unfortunately for me, theres no substitution for headlights, and i reallllllly doubt that my 87 custom deluxe even has a stock 75 amp ALT at best, which wouldnt be near enough for the system. So, you win, any suggestions as to where i could go about finding a 115-150 alternator?
P.S. - Take a chill pill
(hopefully by now you know thats a joke)
uochronos on 11/3/2004 18:21:24
yes i normaly dont get so offended i just get a bit jumpy when people ask for advise then dont seem to accept it as truth.. wipers, interior lights, etc are all small they pull tiny amounts of current the engine itself the computer and the head lights pull the majority of the juice... my buddy had a 86 S-10 and it had an 80amp alt so you probaly have some thing in the 80-90amp range..
many places to get upgrade alternators for some vehicles you can get up to a 140-150amp alt from napa, pep boys, autozone, etc. for reasonable. i got mine on ebay from a company on the east coast got a 200amp alt for 200$ with liftime warranty.. you probaly with a 800watt amp only need like a 120-150amp alternator. which should be cheaper hehe. just look on ebay for people saleing alot of alternators then ask if they can get or build one with your specifications thats what i did.... i well see if i can dig up the name of the guy i got mine from...
Chronos
PS
as for the water beading stuff on the windshield i personaly use it alot its great on the highway but intown it doesnt work great right on the bottle it says it doesnt start working well till 30mph which means at stop lights and slow side streets visibility is very low. just a warning to be carefull
swez on 11/3/2004 20:42:17
Daniel,
Why not confirm what ALT power you actually have before taking any major steps to add audio gear to this vehicle. Can take your truck to most good autoparts centers (PepBoys, Autozone, etc.) and have them run a dynamic ALT/BAT test. (Free) This will confirm how much output your ALT actually has. It will be low output at idle, but at ~2,000 RPM, should be pretty much be max output. Knowing those numbers will lead to the next part of the install. (upgrade the ALT/BAt or press on with amp install)
A 400 watt Class A/B amp (typical 2 channel amp) will draw upwards of 64A current at full output. If you go to 800 watts (RMS) the amount is double that. (~50% efficient in Class A/B amps)
http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
However, a Class D (sub applications only) of the same power rating is much more efficient. A typical 400 watt (RMS) amp will pull a max of just under 40A. (almost 90% efficient)
A "stripped" truck may only need 35-45A to operate the basics. So, there's your basic outline to start.... find out how many amperes of current your present ALT can supply. The next step, depends on that part of the equation.
Swez
PS You guys handled the "misunderstanding" very well. Daniel... we run a very repectful board here. Sure we can take a joke, if we know it to be one. But, being new to the board, just realize we (Golds) are all skilled techs that "donate our time" to help others.
Chronos has been a strong supporter here for 2 years now. I think he is on the "edge" about something of late... but he'll get through it alright. I saw the humor in your post... but then again, it was not directed at me. In all, you guys handled it well! Good job!
danielm87 on 11/3/2004 21:04:34
Eh thanks bud, i think i'll go ahead and get a 150, for any additions i make. How much current would a set of Pioneer TS-A4103 4X10s pull?
yeah my dads got that beading stuff on his camry, crazy how well it works, only while doing 30+ like you said.
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