any major upgrade needs a larger ALT . so lets say for example i need 100 amp extra to full fill the needs of the amplifiers ,,
i was thinking if there was an extra ampers over the car ..... would that affect the electrical system in the car like the daiods has limted amount of currnet that can handels ..
Replies (11)
uochronos on 11/2/2004 14:50:48
i dont quite understadn here can you explain a bit more drawn out.
only_tuning on 11/3/2004 17:28:44
what i'm trying to say is :
when i want to install a two amps lets say for example :
jbl 1200.1 mono amp- at 2ohm
MTX Audio Thunder564 - 4ch amp
lets say my car is a honda civic si ........ don't u think there is an over current draw and there's a load over the stoke ALT ..
and the best solution to kill light dimming . and to have a perfect power supple for the amps is to full fill the hunger of the amps with out hurting the electrice in the car .
uochronos on 11/3/2004 17:32:37
if you installed that in a honda civic and ran it above say 40% volume you would defiantly need upgrades. thats around 140amps of power draw probaly more. you would need alternator upgrades in that case. probaly battery and wire upgrade too,
Chronos
only_tuning on 11/3/2004 17:48:13
ok now what i'm willing to know .... installing a powerfull ALT . which will be enough to supply the amps . and for the car electricity...
and eg:
don't u think when i'm not using the audio system at night time there will be a load and extra power for the car
uochronos on 11/4/2004 02:46:41
dont quite understand the question? are you asking if when stereo is off if too much power well be created? if so then the awnser is now. it wont over charge the battery or anything.
Chronos
swez on 11/4/2004 10:49:37
The two amps mentioned can draw pretty close to 150 amperes of current at full power. The JBL alone will pull 114A. The MTX is pretty close to 40A... So, just for the audio gear alone, looking at over 150 amperes of current. In this case, a 200A ALT and maybe a 850+ CCA rated battery will be needed. That should cover all your power needs with amps and such.
Now, if you have a high output electrical system installed and do not use the audio gear, the ALT/BAT will only deliver the needed current to whatever is needing power. If the amps are off, the current draw will be ~40-50A with engine controls, lights and heater/AC in use.
The ALT will fully charge the battery (about 10A draw) and then supply adequate power to all devices that call for power. If the ampere draw goes up, so will ALT power output, to fill the need to its' max amperage capacity. Once the ALT has reached MAX output, it will borrow additional power from the battery. When battery voltage drops below ~10.0 volts, the car will usually shut down as there is not enough juice to run the car properly.
That's the basics of how a charging system works. Do you see the process better now?
Swez
only_tuning on 11/5/2004 16:19:45
ok what's the steps that i need to be carefull with when installing the ALT in the car ?????
uochronos on 11/5/2004 17:40:43
what car is it? should be pretty simple assuming its in an easy to reach place... in my truck alls you do is put a breaker bar in the tensioner for the belt and gently pull it till the belt releases the alternator pully. then unbolt the alternator put new one on and reattach the belt. make sure the belt is where it was in the begining and is not off any of the other pullies. and no twists in it. i had never done one before and it only too me 40 minutes. it well be more difficult if your car is really tight in the engine compartment or if the alt is under a bunch of stuff.
Chronos
only_tuning on 11/6/2004 00:30:55
my car is peugeot 307 2.0L 16v 4dr
only_tuning on 11/6/2004 00:33:04
my car is peugeot 307 2.0L 16v 4dr
what do u think .. i'm new i.c.e stuff . and i'm willing to buy those amps but i need to know if i should buy the Alt and BAT . first or buy the amps and then install the ALT
swez on 11/6/2004 10:33:19
Do you have a link to pics that show the ALT location in some detail?
Some cars are very easy to remove and replace ALT's as noted by Chronos. My GM cars are very easy... Just loosen the ALT bolts, pull the belt tension pully enough to remove the belt from pully and then remove the harness plug and power feed line. Then pull out the retaining bolts and remove the ALT. Only need a few sockets, prying device to move tension pully a few inches and a small nut driver to remove BAT/ALT power wire nut. I can do mine in under 20 mins.
NOTE: ALWAYS REMOVE THE NEG BAT TERMINAL WHEN WORKING ON AN ALT. You'll have to reset the clock and radio station memory presets... but this is minimal effort. It also resets the computer (ECM/BCM) modules to original factory settings. Nice feature if you have error codes showing up on the dash board too.
When shopping for a replacement ALT, match up the bolt holes and check that the pully will be in correct alignment with belt when reinstalled. (if bolt holes & wiring hardware are in different positions than stock model, have to "re-clock" the front face plate to match the stock unit.
FYI: The parts store can easily do that for you. If you have never done a "re-clock", best to let someone who knows the steps, do it for you as it can release the brushes. Now, the unit will then have to be dissassembled to reset the brushes. A real pain!
Also, on HO ALT's, the case is often larger in diameter and sometimes deeper too. Have to take careful measurements to insure the new HO ALT will fit w/o major mounting bracket mods.
Replacement steps are in reverse order or removal steps.
Swez
i was thinking if there was an extra ampers over the car ..... would that affect the electrical system in the car like the daiods has limted amount of currnet that can handels ..
Replies (11)
uochronos on 11/2/2004 14:50:48
i dont quite understadn here can you explain a bit more drawn out.
only_tuning on 11/3/2004 17:28:44
what i'm trying to say is :
when i want to install a two amps lets say for example :
jbl 1200.1 mono amp- at 2ohm
MTX Audio Thunder564 - 4ch amp
lets say my car is a honda civic si ........ don't u think there is an over current draw and there's a load over the stoke ALT ..
and the best solution to kill light dimming . and to have a perfect power supple for the amps is to full fill the hunger of the amps with out hurting the electrice in the car .
uochronos on 11/3/2004 17:32:37
if you installed that in a honda civic and ran it above say 40% volume you would defiantly need upgrades. thats around 140amps of power draw probaly more. you would need alternator upgrades in that case. probaly battery and wire upgrade too,
Chronos
only_tuning on 11/3/2004 17:48:13
ok now what i'm willing to know .... installing a powerfull ALT . which will be enough to supply the amps . and for the car electricity...
and eg:
don't u think when i'm not using the audio system at night time there will be a load and extra power for the car
uochronos on 11/4/2004 02:46:41
dont quite understand the question? are you asking if when stereo is off if too much power well be created? if so then the awnser is now. it wont over charge the battery or anything.
Chronos
swez on 11/4/2004 10:49:37
The two amps mentioned can draw pretty close to 150 amperes of current at full power. The JBL alone will pull 114A. The MTX is pretty close to 40A... So, just for the audio gear alone, looking at over 150 amperes of current. In this case, a 200A ALT and maybe a 850+ CCA rated battery will be needed. That should cover all your power needs with amps and such.
Now, if you have a high output electrical system installed and do not use the audio gear, the ALT/BAT will only deliver the needed current to whatever is needing power. If the amps are off, the current draw will be ~40-50A with engine controls, lights and heater/AC in use.
The ALT will fully charge the battery (about 10A draw) and then supply adequate power to all devices that call for power. If the ampere draw goes up, so will ALT power output, to fill the need to its' max amperage capacity. Once the ALT has reached MAX output, it will borrow additional power from the battery. When battery voltage drops below ~10.0 volts, the car will usually shut down as there is not enough juice to run the car properly.
That's the basics of how a charging system works. Do you see the process better now?
Swez
only_tuning on 11/5/2004 16:19:45
ok what's the steps that i need to be carefull with when installing the ALT in the car ?????
uochronos on 11/5/2004 17:40:43
what car is it? should be pretty simple assuming its in an easy to reach place... in my truck alls you do is put a breaker bar in the tensioner for the belt and gently pull it till the belt releases the alternator pully. then unbolt the alternator put new one on and reattach the belt. make sure the belt is where it was in the begining and is not off any of the other pullies. and no twists in it. i had never done one before and it only too me 40 minutes. it well be more difficult if your car is really tight in the engine compartment or if the alt is under a bunch of stuff.
Chronos
only_tuning on 11/6/2004 00:30:55
my car is peugeot 307 2.0L 16v 4dr
only_tuning on 11/6/2004 00:33:04
my car is peugeot 307 2.0L 16v 4dr
what do u think .. i'm new i.c.e stuff . and i'm willing to buy those amps but i need to know if i should buy the Alt and BAT . first or buy the amps and then install the ALT
swez on 11/6/2004 10:33:19
Do you have a link to pics that show the ALT location in some detail?
Some cars are very easy to remove and replace ALT's as noted by Chronos. My GM cars are very easy... Just loosen the ALT bolts, pull the belt tension pully enough to remove the belt from pully and then remove the harness plug and power feed line. Then pull out the retaining bolts and remove the ALT. Only need a few sockets, prying device to move tension pully a few inches and a small nut driver to remove BAT/ALT power wire nut. I can do mine in under 20 mins.
NOTE: ALWAYS REMOVE THE NEG BAT TERMINAL WHEN WORKING ON AN ALT. You'll have to reset the clock and radio station memory presets... but this is minimal effort. It also resets the computer (ECM/BCM) modules to original factory settings. Nice feature if you have error codes showing up on the dash board too.
When shopping for a replacement ALT, match up the bolt holes and check that the pully will be in correct alignment with belt when reinstalled. (if bolt holes & wiring hardware are in different positions than stock model, have to "re-clock" the front face plate to match the stock unit.
FYI: The parts store can easily do that for you. If you have never done a "re-clock", best to let someone who knows the steps, do it for you as it can release the brushes. Now, the unit will then have to be dissassembled to reset the brushes. A real pain!
Also, on HO ALT's, the case is often larger in diameter and sometimes deeper too. Have to take careful measurements to insure the new HO ALT will fit w/o major mounting bracket mods.
Replacement steps are in reverse order or removal steps.
Swez
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
