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I HAVE A 2003 FOR RANGER STOCK MOC MP3 CD ONLY PLAYER. I HAVE JUST PURCHASED A 12" KICKER COMP (2003 MODEL) ENCLOSEURE AND HAVE HAD AN AMP WIRING KET INSTALLED BY THE PLACE THAT I BOUGHT THE SUB. MY PROBLEM IS THAT I AM NOT GETTING ANY POWER TO MY AMP. WHAT HAPPENS IS THE POWER LIGHT ON THE AMP COMES ON RIGHT AWAY WHEN I TURN ON THE VEHICAL BUT THE POWER LIGHT DIMS OUT RIGHT AWAY UNTIL IT IS TOTALY OFF. ANOTHER PROBLEM IS ON OF THE THERE FUSES IN MY INSIDE FUSE PANEL FOR MY STEREO KEEPS BLOWING. IT IS THE FIRST (# 20 IN THE OWNERS MANUAL) OF THE THREE IN THE CIRCUT. I HAD THE DEALER ALSO PUT ON AN ADAPTER TO THE STOCK STEREO SO I CAN HOOK UP MY RCA'S. SO BASICALLY I CAN'T FIGURE OUT WHY MY AMP SEEMS TO BE SHORTING OUT. IS IT BECAUSE I AM GROUDING OUT SOMEWHERE? IS IT BECAUSE MY STOCK STEREO CAN'T HANDLE AND THAT IS WHY THE FUSE IS BLOWING? ONE OTHER THING IS THAT MY STOCK STEREO HAS A 75W AMP BUILT IN. THANK YOU DONOHUE420 Replies (4) Relax_The_Mind on 06/26/2003 03:09:57 I am wondering where or if they hooked up the remote wire for the amp to. As far as not knowing that it can be of several things. My first guess would be a ground problem for the blowing fuse as that is the most possible cause. If they hooked up the remote wire to a power antenna that would mean your amp only turns on when the radio is chosen. I have a 99' ford f-150 and I had to use a relay from radio shack for the remote wire. If they used a similar solution they could have possibly hooked up the relay incorrect, using accessory power and ground on the HU (you should never use ground on the HU and a good installer would give a dedicated fuse for the relay) Dealers do some of the funniest and oddest things. I may just be brainstorming so someone else come up with possible answers. RTM xplicitblitzboi on 06/26/2003 18:44:57 i always know when i have the right connections on my amp because the power light turns off when everything is okay. it turns on when the remote wire is hooked up, and once i got a good enough ground and the power hooked up the light turns off until i turn on the car. there are so many problems that can happen with just the ground wire, its interesting actually. anyone got a spare MECP study guide they could lend me since my local libraries' got stolen.??? please GRIN well, later Blitz COFFEE Tray on 07/3/2003 16:37:26 Sounds almost like they are getting the 12V power source from the same place as the deck itself. Check to see if there is a new wire run to the positive terminal of the battery. If not, that is most likely the problem, as the amp/sub would be drawing more than 20 amps, causing the fuse to blow. Do you have access to a test light? They are usually around $3 at the parts store, and would aid us in helping you diagnose the problem. I would venture to guess that it isn't a remote lead issue, as I don't think they pull enough wattage to blow a 20 amp fuse. Swez on 07/4/2003 08:58:04 Hummm, sounds like someone that installed your wiring kit did not get it right. Since you have interior factory amps on the Mach systems, this may be a potential source of your problems. If the dealer did the proper installation of RCA convertor for your amp inputs, that's one to rule out. Also, in order to work properly your amp needs a FUSED main power feed off the POS battery terminal, back to the sub amp. The wire gage used for power feed and grounding wire to amp, are dictatated by the current draw of your sub amp. The ground for the amp should be short and connected to a bare metal body ground with a mounting bolt or #8-12 x 3/4" self tapping sheet metal screw. The last item, you need a remote feed signal to turn on the amp, when the key is in ACC/IGN positions. Otherwise, the amp will not operate without this turn on power lead. There are several ways to do this: 1. Off the HU with power antenna function... but when you switch to MP3 or CD, power antenna feed goes to "ZERO" voltage. (Not recommended) 2. A sepearate tap off the ACC/IGN fuse panel, fused at 3.0A to Amp REMOTE lug 3. A separate REMOTE feed to amp, connected to a lighted switch, again, connected to IGN/ACC in fuse panel About blowing fuses, only reasons for this are: A. Too much current drawn off that circuit (over load) Too many amps being drawn off that circuit, will blow the fuse. B. Shorted power wiring to ground. Hope that helps, and good luck! Swez PS I would take it back to the place you had the power wiring done and print a copy of this detail for them. Get the "A" class installer to look at the previous work and see that it gets done right this time. Sometimes, the small jobs get passed to rookies that don't have enough background to get it right. This may be the case in your scenario. Swez Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved |