Is there any way anyone would know or have a ballpark guess at the capacity of the alternator on my truck is? My earlier post will tell you the system i'm running, i've never turn it up loud, because i'm afraid i'll fry the alternator and be forced to buy a new one that i don't have money for. I have that 1 farad cap just to be safe, but i really fear for the safety of my alternator and battery. How much do high wattage alternators go for?
Replies (15)
ttocs on 10/31/2004 01:17:18
refresh me, what kind of amp? is it still the original alt?
danielm87 on 10/31/2004 08:11:50
800rms@2ohms 400rms@4ohms
yes, original alternator
ttocs on 10/31/2004 10:29:37
800rms does not always equal 800 rms, different brands mean different things. What brand amp?
I have seen very large systems ran off of that stock alt with no problems. At the time however they were not 17 yrs old. If it is keeping up ok then I would see no problems. Keep an eye on the voltage gauge and you should be ok.
swez on 10/31/2004 11:37:13
Stock S-10 is often a 105A ALT. You can call a few local autoparts dealers and ask about what ALT amperage range this vehicle uses. If the 4.3 liter V-6, probably a 105A. If smaller engine (4 cyl.) may be a smaller ALT. Depends on the package and Vin #.
An 800 watt RMS amp will draw between 50-60A of current is non- Class D mono amp. If the amp is class D or T type, can expect less.
Amp make and model # will help...
Swez
PS If your lights are not dimming badly at idle speeds and the voltage to amp remains close to 13.5 or higher, have room to play a bit harder. But if you get heavy light dimming and low voltage, (below 12.0 volts) this amp is straining the electricals.
danielm87 on 10/31/2004 15:14:33
Heh, Swez i hate to burst your bubble, but it's a C-10, full size pickup, 5.7 L 350 V-8. By the way, theres absolutely nothing that the alternator is powering, i have no cab light, no speedometer backlights etc., i have one blinker working. LOL
Hope that helps.
Audiobahn A8000T Intake series amp.
My VIN# is 1GCCR14K2HJ109957
Oh yeah, the headlights work also.
danielm87 on 10/31/2004 15:22:18
correction on that amp - Coustic 801DB
swez on 10/31/2004 18:14:48
Hummm, I stand corrected on the vehicle. Sound like a pretty old work truck with plenty of uhmph. I would think a 130A ALT to be stock on this package. But you can always have it verified by calling a local parts store.
That amp mentioned, I looked at the owners manual and specs from archived Coustic files. No mention of what fuse rating is on that amp. It does state 800 watts @ 14.4 volts, 2% THD into a 2 ohm load. But I have no way of telling if that is 800 Peak or RMS watts w/o knowing the current draw. The prices I have seen, indicate this amp is probably 800 RMS @ 2 ohms. ($300 - 400.00)
The newer 800DB amp is rated at 400 watts RMS @ 2 ohms and has dual 20A fuses. The 401DB is rated at 400 RMS @ 2 ohms and has 2x30A fusing. I have to believe the older 801DB is actually a pretty strong amp. The fuses used will tell the story.
Swez
danielm87 on 10/31/2004 19:10:19
yes, i apologize for any embarassment i caused you. i love my ole truck, lots of power. My coustic is indeed the older model, 800rms@2 ohms. I JUST finished bidding on it on e-bay, 117.00$ final. great price aint it? I'll be hooking up a 2 ohm load to my 1500rms audiobahns, aw1208t's. Thanks a bunch for the alt. info, glad to know it'll have plenty of spare power for the system.
I will still hook up a 1 farad cap just to be safe.
cplkittle on 10/31/2004 21:01:22
Autozone lists 5 alternators as replacements for this vehicle, ranging from 63 amps to 94 amps. I would guess stock to be 63. I don't think they would offer a lower rated alternator.
danielm87 on 10/31/2004 21:11:42
Hmm, so with a little 63 amp ALT and a 1 farad cap, should i have any problems?
-Coustic db800 amp, 4 ohm 400 watts
-2Audiobahn AW1208Ts
-2 4x10s, unpowered
-the alt. has nothing to power other than the headlights, and my system.
cplkittle on 10/31/2004 21:22:02
won't be able to tell until it is hooked up and running. at 12volts, 400watts is going to pull around 35 amps.
if your lights dim at this point, you need a bigger alt or battery.
ttocs on 10/31/2004 21:48:48
I really do not see a problem. Like I said I saw many many big systems in those trucks and this was before class "d" efficiency.....
danielm87 on 10/31/2004 22:06:46
thats good to hear. in any case, a 1 farad cap is a safe bet. at worst, i'd have to..... buy a new battery or alternator? my truck needs both anyways. its all good
ttocs on 10/31/2004 22:40:52
start with a new battery with max CCA before adding the cap. Ya get more bang for the buck......
swez on 11/1/2004 10:53:30
By all means, used a larger CCA rated BAT. Caps are a poor substitute for reserve power. A 1 farad cap has <1/2,000,000th the storage capacity of a normal car battery. For about the same price, get a good 800 CCA rated battery in there and you should be fine.
Worst case, can always consider upgrading to a larger ALT in this truck. Am sure it can be fitted out with a standard GM ALT that nets >100A of current flow. A few bracket mods might be needed and perhaps a few wires re-routed. The older vehicles use to have external voltage/current regulators. All the newer models have them built into the ALT.
Swez
PS Nope, I was not miffed at your "correction" on truck model number. I should have paid more attention to the details and not skimming the obvious. (my error, not yours) It takes a whole lot more than that to knot my shorts... :-)
Replies (15)
ttocs on 10/31/2004 01:17:18
refresh me, what kind of amp? is it still the original alt?
danielm87 on 10/31/2004 08:11:50
800rms@2ohms 400rms@4ohms
yes, original alternator
ttocs on 10/31/2004 10:29:37
800rms does not always equal 800 rms, different brands mean different things. What brand amp?
I have seen very large systems ran off of that stock alt with no problems. At the time however they were not 17 yrs old. If it is keeping up ok then I would see no problems. Keep an eye on the voltage gauge and you should be ok.
swez on 10/31/2004 11:37:13
Stock S-10 is often a 105A ALT. You can call a few local autoparts dealers and ask about what ALT amperage range this vehicle uses. If the 4.3 liter V-6, probably a 105A. If smaller engine (4 cyl.) may be a smaller ALT. Depends on the package and Vin #.
An 800 watt RMS amp will draw between 50-60A of current is non- Class D mono amp. If the amp is class D or T type, can expect less.
Amp make and model # will help...
Swez
PS If your lights are not dimming badly at idle speeds and the voltage to amp remains close to 13.5 or higher, have room to play a bit harder. But if you get heavy light dimming and low voltage, (below 12.0 volts) this amp is straining the electricals.
danielm87 on 10/31/2004 15:14:33
Heh, Swez i hate to burst your bubble, but it's a C-10, full size pickup, 5.7 L 350 V-8. By the way, theres absolutely nothing that the alternator is powering, i have no cab light, no speedometer backlights etc., i have one blinker working. LOL
Hope that helps.
Audiobahn A8000T Intake series amp.
My VIN# is 1GCCR14K2HJ109957
Oh yeah, the headlights work also.
danielm87 on 10/31/2004 15:22:18
correction on that amp - Coustic 801DB
swez on 10/31/2004 18:14:48
Hummm, I stand corrected on the vehicle. Sound like a pretty old work truck with plenty of uhmph. I would think a 130A ALT to be stock on this package. But you can always have it verified by calling a local parts store.
That amp mentioned, I looked at the owners manual and specs from archived Coustic files. No mention of what fuse rating is on that amp. It does state 800 watts @ 14.4 volts, 2% THD into a 2 ohm load. But I have no way of telling if that is 800 Peak or RMS watts w/o knowing the current draw. The prices I have seen, indicate this amp is probably 800 RMS @ 2 ohms. ($300 - 400.00)
The newer 800DB amp is rated at 400 watts RMS @ 2 ohms and has dual 20A fuses. The 401DB is rated at 400 RMS @ 2 ohms and has 2x30A fusing. I have to believe the older 801DB is actually a pretty strong amp. The fuses used will tell the story.
Swez
danielm87 on 10/31/2004 19:10:19
yes, i apologize for any embarassment i caused you. i love my ole truck, lots of power. My coustic is indeed the older model, 800rms@2 ohms. I JUST finished bidding on it on e-bay, 117.00$ final. great price aint it? I'll be hooking up a 2 ohm load to my 1500rms audiobahns, aw1208t's. Thanks a bunch for the alt. info, glad to know it'll have plenty of spare power for the system.
I will still hook up a 1 farad cap just to be safe.
cplkittle on 10/31/2004 21:01:22
Autozone lists 5 alternators as replacements for this vehicle, ranging from 63 amps to 94 amps. I would guess stock to be 63. I don't think they would offer a lower rated alternator.
danielm87 on 10/31/2004 21:11:42
Hmm, so with a little 63 amp ALT and a 1 farad cap, should i have any problems?
-Coustic db800 amp, 4 ohm 400 watts
-2Audiobahn AW1208Ts
-2 4x10s, unpowered
-the alt. has nothing to power other than the headlights, and my system.
cplkittle on 10/31/2004 21:22:02
won't be able to tell until it is hooked up and running. at 12volts, 400watts is going to pull around 35 amps.
if your lights dim at this point, you need a bigger alt or battery.
ttocs on 10/31/2004 21:48:48
I really do not see a problem. Like I said I saw many many big systems in those trucks and this was before class "d" efficiency.....
danielm87 on 10/31/2004 22:06:46
thats good to hear. in any case, a 1 farad cap is a safe bet. at worst, i'd have to..... buy a new battery or alternator? my truck needs both anyways. its all good
ttocs on 10/31/2004 22:40:52
start with a new battery with max CCA before adding the cap. Ya get more bang for the buck......
swez on 11/1/2004 10:53:30
By all means, used a larger CCA rated BAT. Caps are a poor substitute for reserve power. A 1 farad cap has <1/2,000,000th the storage capacity of a normal car battery. For about the same price, get a good 800 CCA rated battery in there and you should be fine.
Worst case, can always consider upgrading to a larger ALT in this truck. Am sure it can be fitted out with a standard GM ALT that nets >100A of current flow. A few bracket mods might be needed and perhaps a few wires re-routed. The older vehicles use to have external voltage/current regulators. All the newer models have them built into the ALT.
Swez
PS Nope, I was not miffed at your "correction" on truck model number. I should have paid more attention to the details and not skimming the obvious. (my error, not yours) It takes a whole lot more than that to knot my shorts... :-)
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