I know it's been a while, but my free-time is now sparse. I'm going to get straight to the point - my system isn't hitting hard enough.
I haven't gathered enough courage to order my speaker amp, nor the sub and it's amp... they both seem like a pretty big investment to me... If I go too high on the wattage, I'll need to get a new alternator and battery.
No idea on what to do... would a speaker amp add more punch to my speakers (type-r fullrange), or would it be best to go with a subwoofer? The speaker amp I've been considering is the Hifonics 6400, or something a little less of a power-hog, since my speakers are only 50w rms.
For subwoofers I've been looking at Type-R's as well, just to keep the cost down, since I am buying $100 books for college. Type-R's are ~$100, so I'd like to stay around that price for the sub and come to a total of $300 including the amp.
Thanks guys FROWN
Replies (6)
uochronos on 10/17/2004 23:08:14
2 type r 10" subs with 550watts rms hit too hard for me to even site in my oldcar they where in.
a speaker amp would bring in some midbass and midrange but i dont think what you are looking for.
as for amps check out www.thezeb.com and look at profile amps super cheap 4 channel amps 50-110watts rms like 3 or 4 models all for under 200$ mot alot cheaper. they are all almost 50% off regular cost.
Chronos
Victor on 10/17/2004 23:13:32
ok.. u seem to be stuck.. if punch is your main criteria and u got a budget of 300$ i think it can be tackled.. u can get a 4ch x 50 w rms AB class amp, a decent one.. in 100$-110$.. u said u are getting the typeR for a 100$ too. u can power the woofer with a decent 2ch amp( in bridged mode) which u can get for around 80$-90$.. I dont know if u are too keen on brand names, but u can get sony and blaupunkt or jvc for a good price( they are no joke,, they are of-course good brands,, but many around here avoid using them i dunno why?..)... and if u have got a bit more money to spare then buil yourself a sturdy sealed or ported enclosure for the typeR.. this shud be enough to and a good bass to your system.
Victor..
uochronos on 10/17/2004 23:19:30
i agree except i would not suggest a 4 channel amp for sub application. they are onyl 60% efficient and a mono 1 channel amp class D or class T is 95%+ efficient. this well get you the same volume using wayb less drain from your battery alternator.
Chronos
PS
we dont avoid brands around "here" victor we simply list the products we know and stay away from one such as sony who are known to over rate there products.
Victor on 10/17/2004 23:40:58
hey man... i am sorry to have annoyed you.. but what i was just trying to do is what i have noticed on the site.. i have rarely seen people talk about certain brands.. just an inquisitive statement.. i am sorry if i have hurt the sentiments of any of the members on this site.. but i really didnt mean that u guys are involved in brand promotion.. i know this is a very good and useful forum.. i am really happy and proud to be a part of it.. and as a site policy i swear i wud never involve myself or for that matter let anyone else ,, into brand promotion..sorry once again.. and thanks a lot for your support and concern
P0werLifter on 10/18/2004 00:11:32
I would NOT suggest running a 4channel class A/B amplifier for subwoofer applications due to the fact they only run at about 50% efficient.
For example,,,lets say were going to run a 600watt A/B amplifier. 600watts Divided by .5 (50$ efficiency) = 1200...thats 1200watts of input to produce the 600watts of available power. now the 1200/13.5= 88 amperage draw for that 600 class A/B amplifier alone...not including other audio sources.
88+60(stock electricals)= 148amper draw . This requires an electrical upgrade of >$500
Now take the same 600 watts and use it on a Class D MONO amplifier. MONO blocks run at >90% efficient. 600/.9 = 666.9 watts of input to prodice the 600watts of available power. 666.9/13.5 = 49.38 amperage draw for the class D
49.38+60= 109.38amperage draw. A stock electrical system may handle this amount of amerage without major problems. If you have minor light dimming this can be fixed by merely upgrading to a 850+CCA battery and upgrading the wiring at Alt-Bat, Bat-Ground Engine-Chassis.
As you can see here the difference between running an A/B amplifier, and a Class D has quite a gap between it. Simple matter is Class D are much more suited for subwoofer applications.
As far as brands go, we merely suggest what we know works, and what is reliable. JVC does have some fine products out there, along with some other bands, we simply dont really suggest Sony due to the fact they overrate their audio equipment. There are many quality brands out there that we havent mensioned, like i said, we merely go with what we know works..and what is relatively cheap and reliable.
Now as far as your question goes GRIN . Amplfying your mids will help you with sound quality, will be louder and pierce better through the bass.
But it sounds to me you want the hard hitting SPL so id reccomend going with a amplifier to push your subwoofers to their potential and for the enclosure type, PORTED. "If your port it...bass will come"..with a ported enclosure it will be louder, and hit the lows better than a sealed enclosure but will lack the tight bass you get when its sealed.
What say you?
-PL
aposynthesi on 10/18/2004 08:15:13
I'm looking for sq/spl... sq over spl though... tight bass.
I'm also one of those guys who has to get brands that you wouldn't find in chain stores (besides Alpine) - SoundStream, Crossfire, MB Quart, Crystal, Image Dynamics, etc... you know what I'm saying?
So far I'm looking for a class d amp with ~ 300w rms @ 2 ohms and a sub (most likely a type-r)... correct?
I haven't gathered enough courage to order my speaker amp, nor the sub and it's amp... they both seem like a pretty big investment to me... If I go too high on the wattage, I'll need to get a new alternator and battery.
No idea on what to do... would a speaker amp add more punch to my speakers (type-r fullrange), or would it be best to go with a subwoofer? The speaker amp I've been considering is the Hifonics 6400, or something a little less of a power-hog, since my speakers are only 50w rms.
For subwoofers I've been looking at Type-R's as well, just to keep the cost down, since I am buying $100 books for college. Type-R's are ~$100, so I'd like to stay around that price for the sub and come to a total of $300 including the amp.
Thanks guys FROWN
Replies (6)
uochronos on 10/17/2004 23:08:14
2 type r 10" subs with 550watts rms hit too hard for me to even site in my oldcar they where in.
a speaker amp would bring in some midbass and midrange but i dont think what you are looking for.
as for amps check out www.thezeb.com and look at profile amps super cheap 4 channel amps 50-110watts rms like 3 or 4 models all for under 200$ mot alot cheaper. they are all almost 50% off regular cost.
Chronos
Victor on 10/17/2004 23:13:32
ok.. u seem to be stuck.. if punch is your main criteria and u got a budget of 300$ i think it can be tackled.. u can get a 4ch x 50 w rms AB class amp, a decent one.. in 100$-110$.. u said u are getting the typeR for a 100$ too. u can power the woofer with a decent 2ch amp( in bridged mode) which u can get for around 80$-90$.. I dont know if u are too keen on brand names, but u can get sony and blaupunkt or jvc for a good price( they are no joke,, they are of-course good brands,, but many around here avoid using them i dunno why?..)... and if u have got a bit more money to spare then buil yourself a sturdy sealed or ported enclosure for the typeR.. this shud be enough to and a good bass to your system.
Victor..
uochronos on 10/17/2004 23:19:30
i agree except i would not suggest a 4 channel amp for sub application. they are onyl 60% efficient and a mono 1 channel amp class D or class T is 95%+ efficient. this well get you the same volume using wayb less drain from your battery alternator.
Chronos
PS
we dont avoid brands around "here" victor we simply list the products we know and stay away from one such as sony who are known to over rate there products.
Victor on 10/17/2004 23:40:58
hey man... i am sorry to have annoyed you.. but what i was just trying to do is what i have noticed on the site.. i have rarely seen people talk about certain brands.. just an inquisitive statement.. i am sorry if i have hurt the sentiments of any of the members on this site.. but i really didnt mean that u guys are involved in brand promotion.. i know this is a very good and useful forum.. i am really happy and proud to be a part of it.. and as a site policy i swear i wud never involve myself or for that matter let anyone else ,, into brand promotion..sorry once again.. and thanks a lot for your support and concern
P0werLifter on 10/18/2004 00:11:32
I would NOT suggest running a 4channel class A/B amplifier for subwoofer applications due to the fact they only run at about 50% efficient.
For example,,,lets say were going to run a 600watt A/B amplifier. 600watts Divided by .5 (50$ efficiency) = 1200...thats 1200watts of input to produce the 600watts of available power. now the 1200/13.5= 88 amperage draw for that 600 class A/B amplifier alone...not including other audio sources.
88+60(stock electricals)= 148amper draw . This requires an electrical upgrade of >$500
Now take the same 600 watts and use it on a Class D MONO amplifier. MONO blocks run at >90% efficient. 600/.9 = 666.9 watts of input to prodice the 600watts of available power. 666.9/13.5 = 49.38 amperage draw for the class D
49.38+60= 109.38amperage draw. A stock electrical system may handle this amount of amerage without major problems. If you have minor light dimming this can be fixed by merely upgrading to a 850+CCA battery and upgrading the wiring at Alt-Bat, Bat-Ground Engine-Chassis.
As you can see here the difference between running an A/B amplifier, and a Class D has quite a gap between it. Simple matter is Class D are much more suited for subwoofer applications.
As far as brands go, we merely suggest what we know works, and what is reliable. JVC does have some fine products out there, along with some other bands, we simply dont really suggest Sony due to the fact they overrate their audio equipment. There are many quality brands out there that we havent mensioned, like i said, we merely go with what we know works..and what is relatively cheap and reliable.
Now as far as your question goes GRIN . Amplfying your mids will help you with sound quality, will be louder and pierce better through the bass.
But it sounds to me you want the hard hitting SPL so id reccomend going with a amplifier to push your subwoofers to their potential and for the enclosure type, PORTED. "If your port it...bass will come"..with a ported enclosure it will be louder, and hit the lows better than a sealed enclosure but will lack the tight bass you get when its sealed.
What say you?
-PL
aposynthesi on 10/18/2004 08:15:13
I'm looking for sq/spl... sq over spl though... tight bass.
I'm also one of those guys who has to get brands that you wouldn't find in chain stores (besides Alpine) - SoundStream, Crossfire, MB Quart, Crystal, Image Dynamics, etc... you know what I'm saying?
So far I'm looking for a class d amp with ~ 300w rms @ 2 ohms and a sub (most likely a type-r)... correct?
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