OK, I've got my 2 12" Infinity Reference 1220W's ordered, now I want to build a box for them. Here's the manual for this subwoofer: http://manuals.harman.com/INF/CAR/Boxes%20and%20Parameters/REF1220w.pdf
I'm going to build the box to specs, so 1.25 cu ft per sub. How do I find out how much space the subwoofer takes up in the box? My box is going to be rectangular, boring yes, but very easy to do. I've come up with what I think are fairly good measurements of the box, but didn't want to finalize without knowing up much space the woofers will take up. I sort of compensated alittle for those woofers, but wanted to be exact, that's why I'm asking. I've got 30" wide, 11" deep, and 14" tall. Thank you.
Replies (16)
drumking15 on 06/20/2003 15:42:30
usually when a company suggest the size of the enclosure its has already compensated for the size of the driver....well at least in my experience....also 1 thing to remember is to make sure you are using internal dimesions for the box volumne...nto external due to the 3/4 wood it will throw off your calcs....somebody had some good box designers around here before i forget exactly where they are but...it helps with resonance of the box itself for a better sound. Anyways make sure you got all the supplies you need and always predrill you holes to preven the mdf from cracking
meat on 06/20/2003 15:47:03
ah, thank you for your help, and the quick response. good thing you said something, those were external measurements. thank you for making me notice that. I'll wait until I hear back from someone who has worked with infinity products, just to be sure on that compensation of the driver space. Thank you for you tips and suggestions, they are very appreciated.
Swez on 06/20/2003 16:59:50
The box dimensions noted if external, are 4, 600 cubic inches over all.
this translates to ~1.33 cf per sub (externally) Your internal volume of this enclosure is less than 1.0 cf per sub... Too small a box for your target of 1.25 cf/sub, internally. THINK
Here's some math to help you sort this out:
H x W X D = external cubic inches (in^3)
14 x 30 x 11 = 4,620 in^3 divided by 1728 = 2.67 ft^3 (external)
this nets 1.33 ft^3 per sub.... looks a wee bit big at first blush, until we factor in the panel thickness and a divider wall between the subs.
To do this we look at the following: (assuming 3/4" MDF wood)
Total height is 14" - (0.75" x 2) = 12.50" (internal)
Total width is 30" - (0.75" x 2) = 28.50" (internal)
Total depth is 11" - (0.75" x 2) = 09.50" (internal)
Sub displacement is ~ 200 in^3 per sub for a single 12" sub
Divider panel displacement is: 12.5" x 9.50" x 0.75" = 89 in^3
The internal box dimensions for this designs are:
12.5 x 28.5 x 9.5 = 3,384.38 in^3 (internally)
Subtract the driver and divider board displacement #'s and get"
3, 384 - 400 - 89 = 2,895.38 in^3 /1728 = 1.68 cf/2 = 0.84 cf/sub
Kinda small and not what you had in mind huh? Is about 38% smaller than required here.
Also, your H" of 14.0" is too tight for minimum height requirements of this sub. (12.25" OD) Needs to be closer to 16" if you can fit it into that space
TARGET ZONE: You need to revise the box specs to obtain close to ~ 7,000 in^3 (externally) , to obtain a 1.25 cf/chamber enclosure.
Care to take a stab at it with the calculations noted above. I can help you if you get stuck, but the bottom line is.... you have to increase the total ft^3 by 37 - 40% to get your targeted 1.25 ft^3 per sub.
The best way to do this, is to know your fixed maximum dimension in any one plane (H, D or W) and go larger on the 2 parameters that can be variable. Your minimum height should be as close to 16" as possible to allow the subs to fit in that panel.
Have fun and see what you can do on your own first... we can work out any last minute bugs, after you run some new calulations.
Swez SMILE
PS The box dmensions do not have to be perfect here. If you go +/-10% larger or smaller than target, is still going to sound very good!
meat on 06/20/2003 18:54:47
excellent, thank you for your help swez. i can't believe i did that bad of math, after i won algebra 1 and algebra 2 inter-high competitions, and graduated as salutatorian. ah well, it's summertime. I've came up with 36" wide, 16" tall, and 18" deep, to give me 6 cu ft external for the entire box. Sound good? I drive a 1993 Dodge Intrepid, and I havent measured the trunk out, but I think this should fit easily. Thanks for the help, I'll post back later on about how well i'm doing.
drumking15 on 06/20/2003 22:48:36
wish i had a trunk that big....id have like 5 tens instead of my three...infinity rocks...your gonna love'm i love all of my 9 drivers in my car....
Swez on 06/21/2003 07:32:35
Your target external dimensions should be pretty close to 6,000 in^3.
This nets out to ~ 3.5 ft^3 external. After you run the numbers as shown above, you should be pretty close to your target zone of 1.25ft^3 per sub. Let's run some numbers to dial it all in.
I would start with:
H = 16" as fixed (external) = 14.5" (internally)
W = 30" ............ (external) = 28.5" (internally)
D = 12.5"........... (external) = 11.0" (internally)
6000 in^3...... (external) = 4546 in^3 (internally) OR
3.47 ft^3 = External = 2.63 ft^3 = Internal
Divider panel insert = 14.5" x 11. 0" x 0.75" =
~ 120 in^3
OPTION #2: divider panel 14.5" x 11.0" x 1.00" =
~ 160 in^3
INTERNAL BOX DIMESIONS:
4546 in^3 - 120 in^3 (divider) =
4426 /1728 = 2.56 ft^3/2 = 1.28 cf per sub.
OPTION #2:
4546 in^3 - 160 in^3 (1.0" divider) =
4386 in^3 = 4386/1728 = 2.54/2 = 1.27 cf per sub.
OK, well within the 1.25 cf/sub (+/- 10%) target tolerance
without makng any oddball fractional cuts.
That sums it up Meat... hope that helps you out... GRIN
Swez CLAP
meat on 06/26/2003 20:52:54
thanks for your help swez. I went to the lumber yard today, they told me .75" mdf comes in 4'x8' sheets, and is around 50 dollars per sheet. What else is good that is alot cheaper? I can buy a pre-made box that is already carpeted, and probably turn out better for less than 50 dollars i'm sure.
Swez on 06/26/2003 21:05:32
The last sheet of 3/4" MDF I bought was ~ $18.00 at Lowes or Home Depot. They cut the sheet into managable panels and I did the rest at home with a table saw and skil saw.
A quality custom box can be built for ~ $75.00 in materials. A quality box premade to specs noted, will set you back anywhere between $80.00 -175.00. The main thing to consider... keep the internal volume spec close to 1.25 cf/chamber and use a divider panel for rigidity.
SubZone: http://www.subzoneusa.com/images/h-122%20dimensions.jpg a tad larger, but will work...
H-122 Dual 12" Sealed 3/4" MDF Box - 1.4cf per sub Picture $82.99 http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/subzone_universal_sub_boxes.html
Q-LOGIC: http://www.qlogic.ws/2003/home/
Model # QLH-1.2512DE
ID 84733
Model # QLH-1.2512DE
Description TYPE 2 DOUBLE 12" SUBWOOFER ENCLOSURE
Description Universal subwoofer enclosure fits under hatchback or in trunk of most popular cars.
Features • H 15-3/4 in x W 32 in x DT 9-1/4 in x DB 15-3/4 in
• 1.25 cu. ft. internal volume per subwoofer/ 2.5 cu. ft. total
• Spring-loaded terminal cup with 5-way binding posts
• One-piece grill accomodates large roll surrounds
• QxE ring allows for a range of mounting diameters
• External port plug for conversion to vented enclosure
• Elliptical Venturi tuning
• Elliptical port flange reduces port noise when vented
• Easy-reference port tuning chart included
• Trapezoid shape better utilizes trunk space
• 100% 5/8 in MDF construction
• Includes woofer mounting screws, poly fill, speaker wire
• Separate chamber for each subwoofer
• Dado groove and miter joint design for ultimate strength
Have to look for a good price as Q-Logic is not a cheap enclosure.
Fusion: http://www.justwoofers.com
fe-12d Dual 12" (l) 830 (h) 360 (d) 370mm (2.4 cuft)
1FE12D 12 $59.99
These are value priced and will also work for your application.
Swez
meat on 06/27/2003 11:49:57
Thanks for the links, I'll be sure to check them out. As for the very high price on the MDF here, it's because it's a very small lumber yard, in a small town. But, it's the only source really, unless I were to drive for a couple hours. I just got off the phone with them, and they have 5/8" industrial grade particleboard for $20 or so. How good would that particleboard work, as compared to MDF? Would you recommend going this route then?
Also, another question, about amp kits. I left the amp kit in my car that I used for my other system, which was very small compared to this. It has 10 gauge power and ground chords, and a 30 amp fuse. Would this be alright to run a jbl bp600.1? Or is it a necessity to upgrade?
Thank again
Tyler
Swez on 06/27/2003 13:13:20
MDF is the best material compared to standard partical board, OSB or other low density materials. Also, 5/8" is the minimum thickness to use for a medium powered sub enclosure... but here again MDF is the material of choice. Regular partical board is very heavy and hard to work with. It chips very easily, hard to cut and not as stable as MDF.
As for power feed wire on the JBL 600.1 amp, #10 is too small a gage for this amp. You'll need # 4 wire here. The good thing about #4, it will allow you to add a 2nd amp for mids/highs later if you choose to do so later.
Here's a wire gage chart for your referemce:
http://pub51.ezboard.com/fcaraudioknowledgefrm7.showMessage?topicID=12.topic
Also, if you need other wiring kit products, shop here for low priced, high quality car audio elecrical items:
http://www.knukonceptz.com
May I suggest that you plan map out your box, develop a parts and materials list and make the trip to a larger town where all materials can be purchased at one time? Can help you with the list if you wish to build the enclosure yourself. It's not that difficult if just a basic rectangle enclosure.
Swez (Dave)
meat on 07/3/2003 16:04:18
Ah, I finally got my box built and subs in. I'm borrowing my friend's 4 channel, 400 watt amp. The amp blows, but since he's not using it, and I don't have one until my 600.1 gets here, it's better than nothing. The amp isn't bridgeable to 2 ohms either, so I have to use it in 4 channel mode, so to say. Not much power getting to the subs at all, but I this is kind of beneficial, because now I can break the subs in, or whatever I'm supposed to do. How many hours of play does this need to be done? I'm going on a trip this weekend, which will be about 15 hours of driving at least, plus probably another 5 or so until that trip. Thank you for all of your help Swez, the box turned out great, and exactly to those specs you gave me. Thank again.
Swez on 07/4/2003 08:47:02
Nice work Tyler... break in is subject to debate and each sub maker has its own recommendations, but in general, 12-15 hours at 40-50% of RMS power rating is a good place to be.
Am glad you had the opportunity to build your own enclosure too. Did you have any trouble finding polyfill for your enclosure?
About that amp.... can bridge down to a 2 channel and wire one sub to each. That's where you'll get the most power from the amp and more power to subs. With the JBL 600.1, it has 2 output terminations in parallel, so if you wire each sub to its own termination cup, all will be good both now or later.
Enjoy your road trip with new bass!
Swez
meat on 07/4/2003 15:30:23
Actually, my mom had some polyfill stuff lying around, I'm not sure what she would even have it for, but she let me use it. It just looks like it came from a craft store or something.
I tried using the bridged modes, It was like LF+ and RF-, and then LR+ and RR-. However when I did this, the subs would "bump" once every half second or so in unison, not to the music, and the power light on the amp would turn on and off in unison to the subs, so I took it out of it, and now I just have one sub going to left rear, and the other going to right rear, with the amp swithed to 2 channel mode. The amp is a newer Jensen amp, 4 channel, 400 watts; so it's not the highest quality amp.
However, it does sound pretty good, and now I definately will have to do some sound dampening in my trunk, as just that little amp sometimes rattles it pretty bad.
Swez on 07/4/2003 16:27:27
Sounds to me that the 2/4 ch. switch, automatically bridges the channels for you. Not bad... and Jensen is getting better as amps go too... but wait until you get your 600.1 !!! You trunk will really rattle then.. GRIN CLAP
Swez
Raiding Mom's private stock of millinary stash eh??? That could put you in jail for at least a day.... pilfering Mom's stash... Shame on you Tyler SMILE
Good she had some on hand!
meat on 07/4/2003 19:48:37
haha, yeah, she actually helped me build the box, because she wanted something to do. I told her I had to find some polyfill somewhere, and she comes out with it and is just like "Use this if it will work." She's really cool.
I wondered if it did bridge it or not, because there is a very noticable difference in SPL when you switch it from 2, and 3, and 4 channels.
Also, what sound deadening would you recommend. Dynamat is obvious, but it's very expensive. I've looked at Brown Bread and whatever eDesigns offered, and both seemed fairly reasonable. At first I'll probably just be doing my trunk lid and bottom of rear deck, as that seems what rattles the most. Then may move on and do the rest of the trunk, if it needs it.
Swez on 07/4/2003 20:28:30
Brownbread, B-Quiet, Fatmat, Rattletrap, Cascade audio Engineering... V-block
Just perform a google search and see what pops up: "car audio", sound deadeners will get you started and here are some I have heard about.
The hard part... finding out where the rattles are. The license plate is common, tail lights, trunk lids, rear deck, seat hinges, loose window moldings, loose door lock control arms and linkages etc.
Once you figure out which items are most predominent, then some specific strategies may be applied.
Hey, your Mom sounds pretty cool and very dedicated to your success in what matters to you. This one is for your MOM.... CLAP
Swez
I'm going to build the box to specs, so 1.25 cu ft per sub. How do I find out how much space the subwoofer takes up in the box? My box is going to be rectangular, boring yes, but very easy to do. I've come up with what I think are fairly good measurements of the box, but didn't want to finalize without knowing up much space the woofers will take up. I sort of compensated alittle for those woofers, but wanted to be exact, that's why I'm asking. I've got 30" wide, 11" deep, and 14" tall. Thank you.
Replies (16)
drumking15 on 06/20/2003 15:42:30
usually when a company suggest the size of the enclosure its has already compensated for the size of the driver....well at least in my experience....also 1 thing to remember is to make sure you are using internal dimesions for the box volumne...nto external due to the 3/4 wood it will throw off your calcs....somebody had some good box designers around here before i forget exactly where they are but...it helps with resonance of the box itself for a better sound. Anyways make sure you got all the supplies you need and always predrill you holes to preven the mdf from cracking
meat on 06/20/2003 15:47:03
ah, thank you for your help, and the quick response. good thing you said something, those were external measurements. thank you for making me notice that. I'll wait until I hear back from someone who has worked with infinity products, just to be sure on that compensation of the driver space. Thank you for you tips and suggestions, they are very appreciated.
Swez on 06/20/2003 16:59:50
The box dimensions noted if external, are 4, 600 cubic inches over all.
this translates to ~1.33 cf per sub (externally) Your internal volume of this enclosure is less than 1.0 cf per sub... Too small a box for your target of 1.25 cf/sub, internally. THINK
Here's some math to help you sort this out:
H x W X D = external cubic inches (in^3)
14 x 30 x 11 = 4,620 in^3 divided by 1728 = 2.67 ft^3 (external)
this nets 1.33 ft^3 per sub.... looks a wee bit big at first blush, until we factor in the panel thickness and a divider wall between the subs.
To do this we look at the following: (assuming 3/4" MDF wood)
Total height is 14" - (0.75" x 2) = 12.50" (internal)
Total width is 30" - (0.75" x 2) = 28.50" (internal)
Total depth is 11" - (0.75" x 2) = 09.50" (internal)
Sub displacement is ~ 200 in^3 per sub for a single 12" sub
Divider panel displacement is: 12.5" x 9.50" x 0.75" = 89 in^3
The internal box dimensions for this designs are:
12.5 x 28.5 x 9.5 = 3,384.38 in^3 (internally)
Subtract the driver and divider board displacement #'s and get"
3, 384 - 400 - 89 = 2,895.38 in^3 /1728 = 1.68 cf/2 = 0.84 cf/sub
Kinda small and not what you had in mind huh? Is about 38% smaller than required here.
Also, your H" of 14.0" is too tight for minimum height requirements of this sub. (12.25" OD) Needs to be closer to 16" if you can fit it into that space
TARGET ZONE: You need to revise the box specs to obtain close to ~ 7,000 in^3 (externally) , to obtain a 1.25 cf/chamber enclosure.
Care to take a stab at it with the calculations noted above. I can help you if you get stuck, but the bottom line is.... you have to increase the total ft^3 by 37 - 40% to get your targeted 1.25 ft^3 per sub.
The best way to do this, is to know your fixed maximum dimension in any one plane (H, D or W) and go larger on the 2 parameters that can be variable. Your minimum height should be as close to 16" as possible to allow the subs to fit in that panel.
Have fun and see what you can do on your own first... we can work out any last minute bugs, after you run some new calulations.
Swez SMILE
PS The box dmensions do not have to be perfect here. If you go +/-10% larger or smaller than target, is still going to sound very good!
meat on 06/20/2003 18:54:47
excellent, thank you for your help swez. i can't believe i did that bad of math, after i won algebra 1 and algebra 2 inter-high competitions, and graduated as salutatorian. ah well, it's summertime. I've came up with 36" wide, 16" tall, and 18" deep, to give me 6 cu ft external for the entire box. Sound good? I drive a 1993 Dodge Intrepid, and I havent measured the trunk out, but I think this should fit easily. Thanks for the help, I'll post back later on about how well i'm doing.
drumking15 on 06/20/2003 22:48:36
wish i had a trunk that big....id have like 5 tens instead of my three...infinity rocks...your gonna love'm i love all of my 9 drivers in my car....
Swez on 06/21/2003 07:32:35
Your target external dimensions should be pretty close to 6,000 in^3.
This nets out to ~ 3.5 ft^3 external. After you run the numbers as shown above, you should be pretty close to your target zone of 1.25ft^3 per sub. Let's run some numbers to dial it all in.
I would start with:
H = 16" as fixed (external) = 14.5" (internally)
W = 30" ............ (external) = 28.5" (internally)
D = 12.5"........... (external) = 11.0" (internally)
6000 in^3...... (external) = 4546 in^3 (internally) OR
3.47 ft^3 = External = 2.63 ft^3 = Internal
Divider panel insert = 14.5" x 11. 0" x 0.75" =
~ 120 in^3
OPTION #2: divider panel 14.5" x 11.0" x 1.00" =
~ 160 in^3
INTERNAL BOX DIMESIONS:
4546 in^3 - 120 in^3 (divider) =
4426 /1728 = 2.56 ft^3/2 = 1.28 cf per sub.
OPTION #2:
4546 in^3 - 160 in^3 (1.0" divider) =
4386 in^3 = 4386/1728 = 2.54/2 = 1.27 cf per sub.
OK, well within the 1.25 cf/sub (+/- 10%) target tolerance
without makng any oddball fractional cuts.
That sums it up Meat... hope that helps you out... GRIN
Swez CLAP
meat on 06/26/2003 20:52:54
thanks for your help swez. I went to the lumber yard today, they told me .75" mdf comes in 4'x8' sheets, and is around 50 dollars per sheet. What else is good that is alot cheaper? I can buy a pre-made box that is already carpeted, and probably turn out better for less than 50 dollars i'm sure.
Swez on 06/26/2003 21:05:32
The last sheet of 3/4" MDF I bought was ~ $18.00 at Lowes or Home Depot. They cut the sheet into managable panels and I did the rest at home with a table saw and skil saw.
A quality custom box can be built for ~ $75.00 in materials. A quality box premade to specs noted, will set you back anywhere between $80.00 -175.00. The main thing to consider... keep the internal volume spec close to 1.25 cf/chamber and use a divider panel for rigidity.
SubZone: http://www.subzoneusa.com/images/h-122%20dimensions.jpg a tad larger, but will work...
H-122 Dual 12" Sealed 3/4" MDF Box - 1.4cf per sub Picture $82.99 http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/subzone_universal_sub_boxes.html
Q-LOGIC: http://www.qlogic.ws/2003/home/
Model # QLH-1.2512DE
ID 84733
Model # QLH-1.2512DE
Description TYPE 2 DOUBLE 12" SUBWOOFER ENCLOSURE
Description Universal subwoofer enclosure fits under hatchback or in trunk of most popular cars.
Features • H 15-3/4 in x W 32 in x DT 9-1/4 in x DB 15-3/4 in
• 1.25 cu. ft. internal volume per subwoofer/ 2.5 cu. ft. total
• Spring-loaded terminal cup with 5-way binding posts
• One-piece grill accomodates large roll surrounds
• QxE ring allows for a range of mounting diameters
• External port plug for conversion to vented enclosure
• Elliptical Venturi tuning
• Elliptical port flange reduces port noise when vented
• Easy-reference port tuning chart included
• Trapezoid shape better utilizes trunk space
• 100% 5/8 in MDF construction
• Includes woofer mounting screws, poly fill, speaker wire
• Separate chamber for each subwoofer
• Dado groove and miter joint design for ultimate strength
Have to look for a good price as Q-Logic is not a cheap enclosure.
Fusion: http://www.justwoofers.com
fe-12d Dual 12" (l) 830 (h) 360 (d) 370mm (2.4 cuft)
1FE12D 12 $59.99
These are value priced and will also work for your application.
Swez
meat on 06/27/2003 11:49:57
Thanks for the links, I'll be sure to check them out. As for the very high price on the MDF here, it's because it's a very small lumber yard, in a small town. But, it's the only source really, unless I were to drive for a couple hours. I just got off the phone with them, and they have 5/8" industrial grade particleboard for $20 or so. How good would that particleboard work, as compared to MDF? Would you recommend going this route then?
Also, another question, about amp kits. I left the amp kit in my car that I used for my other system, which was very small compared to this. It has 10 gauge power and ground chords, and a 30 amp fuse. Would this be alright to run a jbl bp600.1? Or is it a necessity to upgrade?
Thank again
Tyler
Swez on 06/27/2003 13:13:20
MDF is the best material compared to standard partical board, OSB or other low density materials. Also, 5/8" is the minimum thickness to use for a medium powered sub enclosure... but here again MDF is the material of choice. Regular partical board is very heavy and hard to work with. It chips very easily, hard to cut and not as stable as MDF.
As for power feed wire on the JBL 600.1 amp, #10 is too small a gage for this amp. You'll need # 4 wire here. The good thing about #4, it will allow you to add a 2nd amp for mids/highs later if you choose to do so later.
Here's a wire gage chart for your referemce:
http://pub51.ezboard.com/fcaraudioknowledgefrm7.showMessage?topicID=12.topic
Also, if you need other wiring kit products, shop here for low priced, high quality car audio elecrical items:
http://www.knukonceptz.com
May I suggest that you plan map out your box, develop a parts and materials list and make the trip to a larger town where all materials can be purchased at one time? Can help you with the list if you wish to build the enclosure yourself. It's not that difficult if just a basic rectangle enclosure.
Swez (Dave)
meat on 07/3/2003 16:04:18
Ah, I finally got my box built and subs in. I'm borrowing my friend's 4 channel, 400 watt amp. The amp blows, but since he's not using it, and I don't have one until my 600.1 gets here, it's better than nothing. The amp isn't bridgeable to 2 ohms either, so I have to use it in 4 channel mode, so to say. Not much power getting to the subs at all, but I this is kind of beneficial, because now I can break the subs in, or whatever I'm supposed to do. How many hours of play does this need to be done? I'm going on a trip this weekend, which will be about 15 hours of driving at least, plus probably another 5 or so until that trip. Thank you for all of your help Swez, the box turned out great, and exactly to those specs you gave me. Thank again.
Swez on 07/4/2003 08:47:02
Nice work Tyler... break in is subject to debate and each sub maker has its own recommendations, but in general, 12-15 hours at 40-50% of RMS power rating is a good place to be.
Am glad you had the opportunity to build your own enclosure too. Did you have any trouble finding polyfill for your enclosure?
About that amp.... can bridge down to a 2 channel and wire one sub to each. That's where you'll get the most power from the amp and more power to subs. With the JBL 600.1, it has 2 output terminations in parallel, so if you wire each sub to its own termination cup, all will be good both now or later.
Enjoy your road trip with new bass!
Swez
meat on 07/4/2003 15:30:23
Actually, my mom had some polyfill stuff lying around, I'm not sure what she would even have it for, but she let me use it. It just looks like it came from a craft store or something.
I tried using the bridged modes, It was like LF+ and RF-, and then LR+ and RR-. However when I did this, the subs would "bump" once every half second or so in unison, not to the music, and the power light on the amp would turn on and off in unison to the subs, so I took it out of it, and now I just have one sub going to left rear, and the other going to right rear, with the amp swithed to 2 channel mode. The amp is a newer Jensen amp, 4 channel, 400 watts; so it's not the highest quality amp.
However, it does sound pretty good, and now I definately will have to do some sound dampening in my trunk, as just that little amp sometimes rattles it pretty bad.
Swez on 07/4/2003 16:27:27
Sounds to me that the 2/4 ch. switch, automatically bridges the channels for you. Not bad... and Jensen is getting better as amps go too... but wait until you get your 600.1 !!! You trunk will really rattle then.. GRIN CLAP
Swez
Raiding Mom's private stock of millinary stash eh??? That could put you in jail for at least a day.... pilfering Mom's stash... Shame on you Tyler SMILE
Good she had some on hand!
meat on 07/4/2003 19:48:37
haha, yeah, she actually helped me build the box, because she wanted something to do. I told her I had to find some polyfill somewhere, and she comes out with it and is just like "Use this if it will work." She's really cool.
I wondered if it did bridge it or not, because there is a very noticable difference in SPL when you switch it from 2, and 3, and 4 channels.
Also, what sound deadening would you recommend. Dynamat is obvious, but it's very expensive. I've looked at Brown Bread and whatever eDesigns offered, and both seemed fairly reasonable. At first I'll probably just be doing my trunk lid and bottom of rear deck, as that seems what rattles the most. Then may move on and do the rest of the trunk, if it needs it.
Swez on 07/4/2003 20:28:30
Brownbread, B-Quiet, Fatmat, Rattletrap, Cascade audio Engineering... V-block
Just perform a google search and see what pops up: "car audio", sound deadeners will get you started and here are some I have heard about.
The hard part... finding out where the rattles are. The license plate is common, tail lights, trunk lids, rear deck, seat hinges, loose window moldings, loose door lock control arms and linkages etc.
Once you figure out which items are most predominent, then some specific strategies may be applied.
Hey, your Mom sounds pretty cool and very dedicated to your success in what matters to you. This one is for your MOM.... CLAP
Swez
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