Hey guys, I think I'm ready to start building my ported/slotted enclosure for my Infinity Kappa Perfect 10" sub.
I was wondering if you could help me out first with what I need to buy including tools (kind of like a grocery list), since I only have a powered drill, very few hand tools and a Black & Decker NaviGator electric handsaw/jigsaw.
I was also thinking of putting the sub in one of the rear corners of my truck (2000 Dakota club cab) with the sub facing the middle of the truck, or facing forward.
Since I have two seats in the back (one long one and a small one), I'd like to take out the smaller one and make the box the size of that seat so it all blends in, even if I have to add something to the bottom to make it the same height.
SPECIFICATIONS:
Nominal Impedance: 4 Ohms
Mounting Depth: 5-7/8" (150mm)
Cut-out Diameter: 9-1/8" (232mm)
THIELE-SMALL PARAMETERS
VOICE COIL DC RESISTANCE: REVC (OHMS) . . . . . . 4.11
VOICE COIL INDUCTANCE @ 1 KHZ: LEVC (MH) . . . . . . . 2.96
DRIVER RADIATING AREA: SD (IN2) . . . . . . . . 53.40
SD (CM2) . . . . . . 346.00
MOTOR FORCE FACTOR: BL (TM) . . . . . . . . 16.64
COMPLIANCE VOLUME: VAS (FT3) . . . . . . . . 1.36
VAS (LITERS) . . . . . 38.52
SUSPENSION COMPLIANCE: CMS (µM/N) . . . . 189.00
MOVING MASS, AIR LOAD: MMS (GRAMS). . . . 166.71
MOVING MASS, DIAPHRAGM: MMD (GRAMS) . . . 163.01
FREE-AIR RESONANCE: FS (HZ) . . . . . . . . 28.35
MECHANICAL Q: QMS . . . . . . . . . . . 8.83
ELECTRICAL Q: QES . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.44
TOTAL Q: QTS . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.42
MAGNETIC-GAP HEIGHT: HAG (IN) . . . . . . . . . 0.39
HAG (MM) . . . . . . . . 9.80
VOICE-COIL HEIGHT: HVC (IN) . . . . . . . . . 1.50
HVC (MM) . . . . . . . 38.10
MAXIMUM EXCURSION: XMAX (IN) . . . . . . . . 0.56
XMAX (MM) . . . . . . 14.15
Thanks,
Al
(formerly alanjlamore but I had to get a new account cause it wouldn't let me post, it had the one minute message warning, but the time differnce was over 4 hours appart)
Replies (5)
swez on 09/18/2004 18:39:11
If you have the panels pre-cut at the lumber store to specs, the drill and jigsaw should be enough to build a box. All you need is a few basic hand tools from there:
Tape measure (YOYO)
Hammer (anna-kanna-panna)
Brad finish nails (1.5" long)
Dry wall screws (#8 x 2")
Carpenter's glue (Elmer's Pro)
Pencils/markers
Carpenter's square
Rough tooth half-round bastard file (hole touch ups)
Sander to finish box surface (orbital or 1/3rd sheet will do)
#80 grit sand paper (2 full sheets are plenty)
Drill bits for pilot holes and countersinking screws (1/8" & 1/4" min)
Staple gun for polyfill (if used, 12 oz. is good for this size sub)
For this sub, a round port should be adequate. Less cutting and smaller enclosure than if making a slot style port.
Do you have enclosure specs for this sub and port dimensions yet?
If not, this link will give you the dimensions required, port information and building techniques.
http://www.bcae1.com/spboxnew2.htm
Good luck and have patience if this is your first time out.
Swez
PS For cutting the holes perfectly, a router with circle jig tool is the best. A Roto-Zip with compass attachment is also good. Jig saws are much harder to control while cutting circles. Just go slow and use a rough cut half-round "bastard" file if you need to open the hole a few mm's.
PSS Did I forget anything guys?
alanlamore on 09/18/2004 18:59:41
What about the port? Should I use PVC pipe, and How do you connect the port to the box?
swez on 09/18/2004 19:29:38
PVC pipe is fine, pre-fab ports from Parts Express are flared and will look better too or even heavy cardboard tubing will do. For a single 10" sub, a 3" dia port is about right. Just use glue or silicone or latex caulk sealer to install the port and use the same to seal the interior seams of the box as well. One standard cartridge (caulking gun size) will be plenty and have some left over.
This one is a very nice 3" flared port, adjustable length too: 3" dia, 17" long, but can be cut to proper length for tuning.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=268-350
Swez
alanjlamore on 09/20/2004 13:09:16
How about a saw horse and clamps? Should I just get the cheapest I can find?
I think that should cover everything I need (besides the DMF wood of course).
I found 2 saw horses for $19.99 and they also have a set of 12 Quick Ratchet BAR CLAMPS for $14.75 (mydealsdirect is the name of the ebayer's store). I'll still check Home Depot or Lowes and see if it's worth buying over the internet or not.
swez on 09/20/2004 13:49:51
Strap clamps are usually a good option if you want that kind of stuff. I just use glue and brad nails to hold the panels stable until the screws are installed. Once the glue cures, very stong bond is there. The glue is what holds the wood together. The screws are used to create a firm mechanical bond until the glue cures. The brads hold the panels in place after glue is applied. Can sink them deep or leave a 1/4" head exposed for removal later.
Saw horses are nice to have around as they come in handy for a portable work bench. I use a few boards (2"x8"x48") and just screw them into the saw horse support boards. When your project is finished, just remove the screws, boards and fold up the horses for easy storage. Most of the time, I just pre-assemble the box on the cement floor. Then once the outer walls are in place and cured, up to the workbench for front and rear panel installation.
FYI: When assembling the outer walls of the enclosure, a 2nd pair of hands are most helpful to hold the panels in alignment after glue is applied and you begin to drive the brads into the joints. A pencil line about 3/8"-7/16" from the board edges will help guide you in nailing and screwing panels together. Pre drill all screw holes with a 1/8" pilot bit about 1.25" deep. Then go back and make shallow cups (counter- sink) the screw heads so they are flush or 1/4" below flush. A 1/4" drill bit will do or use a countersinking bit. Nice finish tough this way.
Anymore questions? (yeah right huh???)
Swez
I was wondering if you could help me out first with what I need to buy including tools (kind of like a grocery list), since I only have a powered drill, very few hand tools and a Black & Decker NaviGator electric handsaw/jigsaw.
I was also thinking of putting the sub in one of the rear corners of my truck (2000 Dakota club cab) with the sub facing the middle of the truck, or facing forward.
Since I have two seats in the back (one long one and a small one), I'd like to take out the smaller one and make the box the size of that seat so it all blends in, even if I have to add something to the bottom to make it the same height.
SPECIFICATIONS:
Nominal Impedance: 4 Ohms
Mounting Depth: 5-7/8" (150mm)
Cut-out Diameter: 9-1/8" (232mm)
THIELE-SMALL PARAMETERS
VOICE COIL DC RESISTANCE: REVC (OHMS) . . . . . . 4.11
VOICE COIL INDUCTANCE @ 1 KHZ: LEVC (MH) . . . . . . . 2.96
DRIVER RADIATING AREA: SD (IN2) . . . . . . . . 53.40
SD (CM2) . . . . . . 346.00
MOTOR FORCE FACTOR: BL (TM) . . . . . . . . 16.64
COMPLIANCE VOLUME: VAS (FT3) . . . . . . . . 1.36
VAS (LITERS) . . . . . 38.52
SUSPENSION COMPLIANCE: CMS (µM/N) . . . . 189.00
MOVING MASS, AIR LOAD: MMS (GRAMS). . . . 166.71
MOVING MASS, DIAPHRAGM: MMD (GRAMS) . . . 163.01
FREE-AIR RESONANCE: FS (HZ) . . . . . . . . 28.35
MECHANICAL Q: QMS . . . . . . . . . . . 8.83
ELECTRICAL Q: QES . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.44
TOTAL Q: QTS . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.42
MAGNETIC-GAP HEIGHT: HAG (IN) . . . . . . . . . 0.39
HAG (MM) . . . . . . . . 9.80
VOICE-COIL HEIGHT: HVC (IN) . . . . . . . . . 1.50
HVC (MM) . . . . . . . 38.10
MAXIMUM EXCURSION: XMAX (IN) . . . . . . . . 0.56
XMAX (MM) . . . . . . 14.15
Thanks,
Al
(formerly alanjlamore but I had to get a new account cause it wouldn't let me post, it had the one minute message warning, but the time differnce was over 4 hours appart)
Replies (5)
swez on 09/18/2004 18:39:11
If you have the panels pre-cut at the lumber store to specs, the drill and jigsaw should be enough to build a box. All you need is a few basic hand tools from there:
Tape measure (YOYO)
Hammer (anna-kanna-panna)
Brad finish nails (1.5" long)
Dry wall screws (#8 x 2")
Carpenter's glue (Elmer's Pro)
Pencils/markers
Carpenter's square
Rough tooth half-round bastard file (hole touch ups)
Sander to finish box surface (orbital or 1/3rd sheet will do)
#80 grit sand paper (2 full sheets are plenty)
Drill bits for pilot holes and countersinking screws (1/8" & 1/4" min)
Staple gun for polyfill (if used, 12 oz. is good for this size sub)
For this sub, a round port should be adequate. Less cutting and smaller enclosure than if making a slot style port.
Do you have enclosure specs for this sub and port dimensions yet?
If not, this link will give you the dimensions required, port information and building techniques.
http://www.bcae1.com/spboxnew2.htm
Good luck and have patience if this is your first time out.
Swez
PS For cutting the holes perfectly, a router with circle jig tool is the best. A Roto-Zip with compass attachment is also good. Jig saws are much harder to control while cutting circles. Just go slow and use a rough cut half-round "bastard" file if you need to open the hole a few mm's.
PSS Did I forget anything guys?
alanlamore on 09/18/2004 18:59:41
What about the port? Should I use PVC pipe, and How do you connect the port to the box?
swez on 09/18/2004 19:29:38
PVC pipe is fine, pre-fab ports from Parts Express are flared and will look better too or even heavy cardboard tubing will do. For a single 10" sub, a 3" dia port is about right. Just use glue or silicone or latex caulk sealer to install the port and use the same to seal the interior seams of the box as well. One standard cartridge (caulking gun size) will be plenty and have some left over.
This one is a very nice 3" flared port, adjustable length too: 3" dia, 17" long, but can be cut to proper length for tuning.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=268-350
Swez
alanjlamore on 09/20/2004 13:09:16
How about a saw horse and clamps? Should I just get the cheapest I can find?
I think that should cover everything I need (besides the DMF wood of course).
I found 2 saw horses for $19.99 and they also have a set of 12 Quick Ratchet BAR CLAMPS for $14.75 (mydealsdirect is the name of the ebayer's store). I'll still check Home Depot or Lowes and see if it's worth buying over the internet or not.
swez on 09/20/2004 13:49:51
Strap clamps are usually a good option if you want that kind of stuff. I just use glue and brad nails to hold the panels stable until the screws are installed. Once the glue cures, very stong bond is there. The glue is what holds the wood together. The screws are used to create a firm mechanical bond until the glue cures. The brads hold the panels in place after glue is applied. Can sink them deep or leave a 1/4" head exposed for removal later.
Saw horses are nice to have around as they come in handy for a portable work bench. I use a few boards (2"x8"x48") and just screw them into the saw horse support boards. When your project is finished, just remove the screws, boards and fold up the horses for easy storage. Most of the time, I just pre-assemble the box on the cement floor. Then once the outer walls are in place and cured, up to the workbench for front and rear panel installation.
FYI: When assembling the outer walls of the enclosure, a 2nd pair of hands are most helpful to hold the panels in alignment after glue is applied and you begin to drive the brads into the joints. A pencil line about 3/8"-7/16" from the board edges will help guide you in nailing and screwing panels together. Pre drill all screw holes with a 1/8" pilot bit about 1.25" deep. Then go back and make shallow cups (counter- sink) the screw heads so they are flush or 1/4" below flush. A 1/4" drill bit will do or use a countersinking bit. Nice finish tough this way.
Anymore questions? (yeah right huh???)
Swez
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