OK, I just asked about an amp for my CDTs and I was also looking to get my sub amp (avionixx AXT 800.4) fixed 'cause one channel isn't working.
I now have 2 infinity perfect 10s (350 wrms each) and they were hooked up to the 4 channel amp bridged to 2 chanels which gave each sub 400wrms, untill one channel died on me.
Well, since I'm looking for an amp for my CDTs that cleanly puts out around 90wrms (+or- 10-20) and I saw some info on infinity's kappa perfect 10 VQs that take 400 wrms.
I was thinking, I could sell my 2 kappa perfect 10s and buy a kappa perfect 10VQ, then hook it up to 2 of the channels, bridged, from my avioixx amp (giving the sub 400wrms), then I could connect my CDTs in series to the remaining channel (that still works) that puts out 200 wrms at 4 ohms, giving the speakers (I think) around 100wrms since they'll be hooked up with an 8 ohm load, right?
This amp should give the CDTs the clean class T amp signal and enough power for the sub at the same time (I hope).
Just a thought. This could save me from getting a lot of new stuff. Does anyone know if this would work???
Just incase this is a little confusing, I'd have one sub that takes 400 wrms, hooked up to 2 channels, bridged, putting out 400 wrms.
Then two 6.5" CDT speakers hooked up in series (making the load 8 ohms) to one channel that puts out 200wrms at 4 ohms.
Thanks in advance,
Replies (11)
ttocs on 09/11/2004 21:08:45
if you run both of the front speakers off of the same channel there will be no stereo seperation?
uochronos on 09/12/2004 03:56:07
yes thats the big problem here... you could run a lower RMS sub off the 1 channel and then speakers off the other 2 but running the way you listed well not sound very good because of the reason ttocs stated.
Chronos
alanjlamore on 09/12/2004 06:55:07
Ya, I forgot about that whole sterio thing :(
Looks like I'll be getting that MA Audio HK297 amp for the CDTs and I could just use one side of the 4 ch amp for the infinity VQ.
Does anyone know if this is a good sub to use for 400 wrms, or are there better out there for the price?
The sensitivity on this sub is 87db, but the infinity kappa perfects that I have now (350 wrms) have a sensitivity of 94db.
swez on 09/12/2004 07:29:48
There's a misnomer on that sensitivity rating used by Infinity. They state "In Car Response" is 94dB/1w. That number would be higher for any sub if all subs were measured that way. Most car subs fall in a range between 85-90 dB/1w. (free air test)
When you get your Avionix amp repaired, can use it as a 3 channel amp. Front channels for the CDT's and rear channels bridged to your subs i n series. Yes, that's an 8 ohm load and you will lose 3dB of max output... but that can be made up in enclosure design... ported or vented.
Swez
PS You can easily run 2 sub (2 ohm load) off the amp channel that remains. That's probably only 150 RMS or so... but it will work. When amp is repaired, can use 1 sub to bridged rear channels. That would be plenty of power to 1 stout sub.
alanjlamore on 09/12/2004 07:46:11
Thanks again swez! Great idea as usual.
I was thinking about taking cplkittle up on his offer to build a box for a $150-$200 donation (if he's still offering).
What's the difference between ported and vented?
P0werLifter on 09/12/2004 13:41:58
Ported/Vented is pretty much the same thing...there are different types of ports we talk about. We have circle ports that are most comment, Slot Ports (which i reccomend over Circle Ports, More port area = more SPL + the benefit of slowing the air down) and Transmission Line enclosures (Slot port but the line has many differeent phase shifts).
For your application I'd reccomend going with a slot port design if your going to use 1 stout sub to provide more bump in the trunk, or even if you wanted you could use it for both of your subs as is. Just personal preference.
If you decide to go ahead and build one, we can help walk you throuh the process
-Jason
alanjlamore on 09/12/2004 18:03:18
OK, thaks for the help. I just might ask about how to build a slotted box in about 3 weeks or so when I get more money saved up.
So, I'm thinking I'll go with hooking both subs to two channels bridged with an 8 ohm load, in a slotted box; and the CDTs hooked up to the remaining 2 channels (when I get it fixed) at a lower gain setting.
I should lose about 3db by connecting the subs up in series, but gain some of it back by using the slotted box, right?
Since I've been looking to make or buy a new box anyway, I think this is the best/cheapest option for me.
Thanks a lot guys, I just donated $10 and plan on giving more when I get done with my setup.
P0werLifter on 09/12/2004 18:53:17
Correct...you will loose about 3db fby connecting the subs up at an 8ohm load but you will gain back the 3db in the ported design enclosure.
If you have a some carpentry skills and have the tools available building an enclosure is very cost efficient and will be a good learning experience. We can help you through it.
Thanks for donating, every little bit helps and is appreciated.
-Jason
alanjlamore on 09/13/2004 16:25:16
One last question.
Wouldn't I get around the same db from one sub fully powered, with a slotted box, as I would with 2 subs half powered with a slotted box?
Two subs have more surface area, half the power each, so I'm guessing maybe only a tad louder with 2?
If so, then I think it would be easier and more space efficient to build a box for just one sub.
Thanks,
Al
swez on 09/13/2004 19:33:31
Probably true in this case. If you were really shooting for high SPL bass, I would suggest otherwise. But since this is a good SQ system setup, a single sub, tube/slot ported will be a good player.
You mentioned you had 2 Infinity Perfect 10's right? Are they SVC 4 ohm subs or 4+4, DVC models?
Swez
alanjlamore on 09/13/2004 20:02:49
SVC 4 ohm.
Oh yea, I know I said "one last question" in the previous post, but I thought of another one:
Would a mid range speaker help the overall sound of my system?
I have a Dodge Dakota and the speakers are at my feet, but the rear speakers are right behind the driver's and pasenger's heads.
I now have 2 infinity perfect 10s (350 wrms each) and they were hooked up to the 4 channel amp bridged to 2 chanels which gave each sub 400wrms, untill one channel died on me.
Well, since I'm looking for an amp for my CDTs that cleanly puts out around 90wrms (+or- 10-20) and I saw some info on infinity's kappa perfect 10 VQs that take 400 wrms.
I was thinking, I could sell my 2 kappa perfect 10s and buy a kappa perfect 10VQ, then hook it up to 2 of the channels, bridged, from my avioixx amp (giving the sub 400wrms), then I could connect my CDTs in series to the remaining channel (that still works) that puts out 200 wrms at 4 ohms, giving the speakers (I think) around 100wrms since they'll be hooked up with an 8 ohm load, right?
This amp should give the CDTs the clean class T amp signal and enough power for the sub at the same time (I hope).
Just a thought. This could save me from getting a lot of new stuff. Does anyone know if this would work???
Just incase this is a little confusing, I'd have one sub that takes 400 wrms, hooked up to 2 channels, bridged, putting out 400 wrms.
Then two 6.5" CDT speakers hooked up in series (making the load 8 ohms) to one channel that puts out 200wrms at 4 ohms.
Thanks in advance,
Replies (11)
ttocs on 09/11/2004 21:08:45
if you run both of the front speakers off of the same channel there will be no stereo seperation?
uochronos on 09/12/2004 03:56:07
yes thats the big problem here... you could run a lower RMS sub off the 1 channel and then speakers off the other 2 but running the way you listed well not sound very good because of the reason ttocs stated.
Chronos
alanjlamore on 09/12/2004 06:55:07
Ya, I forgot about that whole sterio thing :(
Looks like I'll be getting that MA Audio HK297 amp for the CDTs and I could just use one side of the 4 ch amp for the infinity VQ.
Does anyone know if this is a good sub to use for 400 wrms, or are there better out there for the price?
The sensitivity on this sub is 87db, but the infinity kappa perfects that I have now (350 wrms) have a sensitivity of 94db.
swez on 09/12/2004 07:29:48
There's a misnomer on that sensitivity rating used by Infinity. They state "In Car Response" is 94dB/1w. That number would be higher for any sub if all subs were measured that way. Most car subs fall in a range between 85-90 dB/1w. (free air test)
When you get your Avionix amp repaired, can use it as a 3 channel amp. Front channels for the CDT's and rear channels bridged to your subs i n series. Yes, that's an 8 ohm load and you will lose 3dB of max output... but that can be made up in enclosure design... ported or vented.
Swez
PS You can easily run 2 sub (2 ohm load) off the amp channel that remains. That's probably only 150 RMS or so... but it will work. When amp is repaired, can use 1 sub to bridged rear channels. That would be plenty of power to 1 stout sub.
alanjlamore on 09/12/2004 07:46:11
Thanks again swez! Great idea as usual.
I was thinking about taking cplkittle up on his offer to build a box for a $150-$200 donation (if he's still offering).
What's the difference between ported and vented?
P0werLifter on 09/12/2004 13:41:58
Ported/Vented is pretty much the same thing...there are different types of ports we talk about. We have circle ports that are most comment, Slot Ports (which i reccomend over Circle Ports, More port area = more SPL + the benefit of slowing the air down) and Transmission Line enclosures (Slot port but the line has many differeent phase shifts).
For your application I'd reccomend going with a slot port design if your going to use 1 stout sub to provide more bump in the trunk, or even if you wanted you could use it for both of your subs as is. Just personal preference.
If you decide to go ahead and build one, we can help walk you throuh the process
-Jason
alanjlamore on 09/12/2004 18:03:18
OK, thaks for the help. I just might ask about how to build a slotted box in about 3 weeks or so when I get more money saved up.
So, I'm thinking I'll go with hooking both subs to two channels bridged with an 8 ohm load, in a slotted box; and the CDTs hooked up to the remaining 2 channels (when I get it fixed) at a lower gain setting.
I should lose about 3db by connecting the subs up in series, but gain some of it back by using the slotted box, right?
Since I've been looking to make or buy a new box anyway, I think this is the best/cheapest option for me.
Thanks a lot guys, I just donated $10 and plan on giving more when I get done with my setup.
P0werLifter on 09/12/2004 18:53:17
Correct...you will loose about 3db fby connecting the subs up at an 8ohm load but you will gain back the 3db in the ported design enclosure.
If you have a some carpentry skills and have the tools available building an enclosure is very cost efficient and will be a good learning experience. We can help you through it.
Thanks for donating, every little bit helps and is appreciated.
-Jason
alanjlamore on 09/13/2004 16:25:16
One last question.
Wouldn't I get around the same db from one sub fully powered, with a slotted box, as I would with 2 subs half powered with a slotted box?
Two subs have more surface area, half the power each, so I'm guessing maybe only a tad louder with 2?
If so, then I think it would be easier and more space efficient to build a box for just one sub.
Thanks,
Al
swez on 09/13/2004 19:33:31
Probably true in this case. If you were really shooting for high SPL bass, I would suggest otherwise. But since this is a good SQ system setup, a single sub, tube/slot ported will be a good player.
You mentioned you had 2 Infinity Perfect 10's right? Are they SVC 4 ohm subs or 4+4, DVC models?
Swez
alanjlamore on 09/13/2004 20:02:49
SVC 4 ohm.
Oh yea, I know I said "one last question" in the previous post, but I thought of another one:
Would a mid range speaker help the overall sound of my system?
I have a Dodge Dakota and the speakers are at my feet, but the rear speakers are right behind the driver's and pasenger's heads.
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