i have just hookd up my amp with a 2 farad cap... amp is shark 2000 watt and cap is boss..... everything was working fine.... i have a wire from battery to dashboard ,there it is connected to a switch where i can control amp and sub..... all other speakers are normal (connected to headunit) ...it was working fine until this morning.....what happened is: every time i switch on the switch on the dashboard the fuse of the power wire ( which is next to the car battery) blows off!!!! it takes 20 amp fuse but it always blows off ...i changed 20 times today..then i inserted 30 amp fuse it did the same....there is still power in my cap and cap is normal ...but now, there is a red light in my amp which says protected and it wont work.....both red and green light are in amp red is power and green is protected...what is happening?????? please help me!!!! thank you
Replies (3)
Bigeazy4387 on 09/11/2004 14:55:30
first of all unhook all wires from your amp [speaker wires ect.] then check your ground wire if it is ok then rehook it to your amp next check your power and replace the fuse 1 more time and if the power isnt touching any part of the car but the battery then rehook it next get a piece of old speaker wire touch one end of the speaker wire to the remote input on your amp then touch the other end to the power what this will do is tell you if it is your remote wire that is causing the problem if all is ok and the amp powers up and doesnt go into protect then remove the old speaker wire and reconnect the remote wire now see if it goes into protect if it does then it is your remote wire and you have to remove your hu. now if it doesnt then you probally had your speakers wired wrong so tell us how many channels your amp is and what ohms your speakers are and we will try to help you out
P0werLifter on 09/11/2004 15:12:10
I'm not real familiar with the Shark Brand but on all the amplifiers if dealt with, Red is Protect Mode, and Green is Normal.
Check all grounds on this install thouroghly, Have you grounded your Cap? When grounding make sure the area is clean and free of paint etc. If your running more than one piece of equipment it is reccomended you ground everything to one location on the car. Try to avoid using bolts that are existing due to the fact many times they are rusted, painted, etc. Srape all paint off a section on the car body itself using a screwdriver, puddy knife, then sand it down. Then use a self tapping screw to ground your wires.
Next make sure there are NO shorts in your power wires ({No metal on the wire touches metal on the automobile), Is this power wire the actual power wire that goes to your amplifir? What guage is it? How far do you have the fuse from your car battery? It should be as close as humany possibly. Next, if it is in fact your amplifiers power wire, and there are no shorts, then replace your fuse with an 60amp fuse. 20 amp in this case is waaay to small for a 2000watt amplifier to work with. Im assuming you probably havent upgraded your charging systems yet to run a high wattage system so a 60 amp fuse might be alright. Heres the math on how much current draw a True 2000watt Class D amplifier will take. 2000watts Divided by 90% efficiency factor (class D's run about 90% efficient) = 2222.22watts....2222.22watts divided by your cars charging systems voltage (13.5 volts) = 164.amper draw.
The average automobile runs about a 100amp alternator. It takes 50-60amps to run your stock electricals so that leaves you with about 40-50 watts to play with without having to upgrade you electricals. In this case, as you can see...you have a very large current draw from your amplifier. As soon as the current draw from the amplifier exeedes that of your rated fuse, the fuse will blow. (this is why i reccomend going with a 60amp fuse,,,to protect your charging system, if your current alternator cant keep up with the amperage draw, it can give out and leave you stranded somewhere..no lights, no charging= NO Driving anywhere,,,stuck)
Your power wire should be fairly large, If your amplifier is a true 2000watts you should be running 1guage wire
Check all these things then if it still isnt working correctly....we'll check some other stuff out
-Jason
swez on 09/11/2004 17:31:40
I think your switch is shot! Most automotive switches can do 10-20A and be OK. But if your amp is really large on current draw, those switch contacts will fail with all that current flow upon initial flick of the switch.
Does this amp have external fuses on it? If so, add em up. How many fuses are used? That will help determine power input needed, wire gage, fusing at BAT and how much current the amp requires.
Finally, do you have links to amp and subs used right now? Am not familiar with Shark brand name???
Swez
Replies (3)
Bigeazy4387 on 09/11/2004 14:55:30
first of all unhook all wires from your amp [speaker wires ect.] then check your ground wire if it is ok then rehook it to your amp next check your power and replace the fuse 1 more time and if the power isnt touching any part of the car but the battery then rehook it next get a piece of old speaker wire touch one end of the speaker wire to the remote input on your amp then touch the other end to the power what this will do is tell you if it is your remote wire that is causing the problem if all is ok and the amp powers up and doesnt go into protect then remove the old speaker wire and reconnect the remote wire now see if it goes into protect if it does then it is your remote wire and you have to remove your hu. now if it doesnt then you probally had your speakers wired wrong so tell us how many channels your amp is and what ohms your speakers are and we will try to help you out
P0werLifter on 09/11/2004 15:12:10
I'm not real familiar with the Shark Brand but on all the amplifiers if dealt with, Red is Protect Mode, and Green is Normal.
Check all grounds on this install thouroghly, Have you grounded your Cap? When grounding make sure the area is clean and free of paint etc. If your running more than one piece of equipment it is reccomended you ground everything to one location on the car. Try to avoid using bolts that are existing due to the fact many times they are rusted, painted, etc. Srape all paint off a section on the car body itself using a screwdriver, puddy knife, then sand it down. Then use a self tapping screw to ground your wires.
Next make sure there are NO shorts in your power wires ({No metal on the wire touches metal on the automobile), Is this power wire the actual power wire that goes to your amplifir? What guage is it? How far do you have the fuse from your car battery? It should be as close as humany possibly. Next, if it is in fact your amplifiers power wire, and there are no shorts, then replace your fuse with an 60amp fuse. 20 amp in this case is waaay to small for a 2000watt amplifier to work with. Im assuming you probably havent upgraded your charging systems yet to run a high wattage system so a 60 amp fuse might be alright. Heres the math on how much current draw a True 2000watt Class D amplifier will take. 2000watts Divided by 90% efficiency factor (class D's run about 90% efficient) = 2222.22watts....2222.22watts divided by your cars charging systems voltage (13.5 volts) = 164.amper draw.
The average automobile runs about a 100amp alternator. It takes 50-60amps to run your stock electricals so that leaves you with about 40-50 watts to play with without having to upgrade you electricals. In this case, as you can see...you have a very large current draw from your amplifier. As soon as the current draw from the amplifier exeedes that of your rated fuse, the fuse will blow. (this is why i reccomend going with a 60amp fuse,,,to protect your charging system, if your current alternator cant keep up with the amperage draw, it can give out and leave you stranded somewhere..no lights, no charging= NO Driving anywhere,,,stuck)
Your power wire should be fairly large, If your amplifier is a true 2000watts you should be running 1guage wire
Check all these things then if it still isnt working correctly....we'll check some other stuff out
-Jason
swez on 09/11/2004 17:31:40
I think your switch is shot! Most automotive switches can do 10-20A and be OK. But if your amp is really large on current draw, those switch contacts will fail with all that current flow upon initial flick of the switch.
Does this amp have external fuses on it? If so, add em up. How many fuses are used? That will help determine power input needed, wire gage, fusing at BAT and how much current the amp requires.
Finally, do you have links to amp and subs used right now? Am not familiar with Shark brand name???
Swez
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