I am working on my first system and I am thinking of buying a pair of JVC CS-HX6945 6x9's and a pair of JVC CS-HX635 6.5's. The 6x9's are rated at 360 watts max and the 6.5's are rated at 200 watts max. I do not know the rms ratings for these speakers. Anyways, I plan on running these speakers off of a JL 300/4 Slash Series amp. My question is will these sound good or like crap and will it clip or not?
Replies (52)
ryan on 09/7/2004 17:28:00
What ru looking for in these speakers. To have SQ or are you looking for the 6x9's to give you sum bass?
SHILL86 on 09/7/2004 17:37:17
I'm going for SQ. I'm getting 2 JL W3v2's for the bass.
ryan on 09/7/2004 17:40:24
well with those subs i dont think you'll need the 6x9's and you could just leave them out to get more bass into the cabin and plus you wont know the difference if you had them in or not i dont think. See what sum of the gold think. Are you going to be amping the front speakers?
SHILL86 on 09/7/2004 18:10:19
Yeah, I don't know what the sum of the gold thing is but I do plan on amping the front speakers.
alanjlamore on 09/7/2004 18:47:52
I think he means see what the members on this forum who have a gold metal next to their name think. These guys are known for their experience and great advice.
There are a lot of great articles on this site too, if you have some extra time while waiting for some of the more experienced guys to give their advice.
You've definitly come to the right place for good un-biased advice on how to build a great system. Good luck!
SHILL86 on 09/7/2004 19:10:11
Thanks for the info... this is a great site
P0werLifter on 09/7/2004 19:44:26
I havnt dealth with JVC's products personally, but I'm sure some of the others on the forum has.
If you dont have your heart set on the JVC's, I can recomend an awesome set of component speakers that will blow you mind away. You wont really need the 6x9 as much if your going to be adding the JL audio subs in the near future.
For the cost of the JVC speakers, 6.5's (89.95) and the 6x9 (119.95)= $208 you could purchase a set of high quality CDT
CL-61 component speakers from www.thezeb.com for 149.95.
http://www.thezeb.com/detail.aspx?ID=9415
Just about everyone on this forum highly recomends these. And you wont need as big of an amplifier to run these effectivly.
Im sure Swez, chronos, ttocs or some of the other gurus around here will be along shortly.
-Jason
SHILL86 on 09/7/2004 20:08:24
According to thezeb.com the JVC 6x9's are $69.95 and the 6.5's are $39.95. That is about $110. I think that is a good deal. I just wonder if these will sound good with the watts I will be giving them. I was also looking at the JVC CS-XV 6x9's and 6.5's. Those would cost me about $85 all together and the rms ratings seem more reasonable to what I plan on giving them (75w). I just want to replace my stock speakers. I'll probably replace my stock tweets around X-mas and get an Optima car battery. I am really looking at buying one of these sets of JVC speakers, but any suggestions will be welcomed.
swez on 09/7/2004 20:19:35
Agreed, The CDT Comps up front are an excellent SQ choice ih high definition speakers at well below market prices for similar quality speakers.
The JL amp will power the CDT's well if you bridge it to a 2 channel amp (more clean power) to speakers. If you want rear channel speakers... that's fine. More a personal preference on your part. (I happen to like some rear fill for good staging... It's like an 80/20 thing... 80% power to fronts, 20% to rears) The HU amps will do that job well enough if you so choose.
Finally, the subs mentioned are great products too. Just be aware that your car electrical system can only provide so much power to a pair of amps. Most typical cars need 40-60 amperes of current to perform properly. Anything above that left in the ALT, is fair game to use. In a smaller Import like the Civic, I would guess you have ~80-85A (at 2000 RPM or higher) of current from a stock ALT. (check that one out please)
The 4 channel will pull close to 40A at full power That leaves no extra power for even a modest sub amp. I see some electrical upgrades in the picture if you try to run a sub amp larger than ~250 watts (RMS).
Other than that, a great system in the making... if you are will to cough up the extra cash for a 150A ALT and a larger BAT.
Swez
P0werLifter on 09/7/2004 20:21:42
My mistake, i was getting the prices for the HX series from the JVC's website. But the CDT's are awesome speakers, just all up to personal preference.
-Jason
SHILL86 on 09/7/2004 21:10:37
I'm guessing that if I do get the JVC HX series, they will not sound great. With the amount of power I will be giving them (75w), I think I will be underpowering them too much. I don't know though. Any suggestions?
SHILL86 on 09/7/2004 22:45:33
I just found out that the amp I will be using to run whatever 6x9's and 6.5's I get is not the JL 300/4 Slash Series, but the JL e4300 amp instead. I don't know if that makes a difference or not.
Also, what should I get first? A capacitor or an Optima Yellow Top battery to help stop dimming lights.
-Thanks-
ryan on 09/7/2004 23:26:31
To save you money first upgrade the magic 3 wires. Those are alt to +battery, ground to -battery, and engine to -battery. Just to make sure let someone verify the engine to -battery one because im not 100% positive on that. You should upgrade the wires at least to 4guage or bigger (2 or 0/1). This will help the current flow faster for your electrical needs. And if that doesnt help either think of investing in a bigger alt. which is the best solution if you have more then slight dimming or get a Yellow Top.
I have to say it feels nice to be back here helping people out again.
uochronos on 09/8/2004 02:35:45
jumping in here a bit late but just throwing my 2 sense in... if your running good comps up front you could really go without the 6x9's if your an SQ kind of person 6x9's well justy hold you back... perhaps mount a set of 6.5" 2 ways back there? these well get much better SQ then a 6x9..... the only thing i would ever suggest 6x9 for is a cheap system where you want to get alot of bass from rear speakers.
as for thye diumming question... ialways upgrade battery first if its minor dimming. if its severe dimming then an alternator upgrade is going to be needed.. i and many others here do not recomend capsacitors they have there places but that place if not to stop dimming. they are really only good for covering the power needed by big bass spikes. if your dimming then upgrade battery and if you still get dimming then an alternator upgrade is going to be needed. a capacittor should be the last electrical upgrade and only if you need it for high bass spikes.
i would say a set of comps upfront and a set of 2way 6.5 mounted in 6x9 spot would be a great way to get reasonably priced SQ. i defiantly suggest CDT... but i have seen some other excelent deals on Component speakers latly at www.thezeb.com and www.partsexpress.com say a pair of decent such as the ma audio compnents on parts express for only 89.99 for 5.25 and 99.99 nfor 6.5 components. great deals my friend has a pair of these great SQ for the money.
and you can get a set of CDT 2 way 6.5 speakers 44.95 at www.thezeb.com. if you went with the MA components and the CDT 2 ways for the rear thats only 150$ for all the speakers and it would be very good SQ. well above average.
hope this helps
Chronos
SHILL86 on 09/8/2004 16:43:42
Thanks for the suggestions, but if I did get the MA comps and the CDT 2-ways, wouldn't I be underpowering them with the amp I will be using? Thus them not sounding good or will it still sound good with the watts I will be pumping to each speaker?
Also, what do you guys think of the Pioneer TS-A6980R 6x9 4-ways and the TS-A1680R 6.5 4-ways
uochronos on 09/8/2004 18:20:58
i never suggest 4 way speakers.. the most you should need is a 2 way really or a 3 way components..
and not you wouldnt be underpowering too much... i ran my cdt's off the HU 18watts rms per speaker it sounded good and they are 125rms... really over 50watts well be more then enough.
SHILL86 on 09/8/2004 18:38:52
Why do you never suggest 4-way speakers?
uochronos on 09/8/2004 18:51:31
well the mid and tweeter in a 3 way speaker basicaly do the same thing they are so close in size. then a 4 way speaker adds a second tweeter.. thats second tweeter isnt going to add more sound or better quality. its more pieces and cheap filters. and again 6x9's arnt going to ahev the SQ i think you want. however if you go with 6x9 speakers i suggest 2 way speakers. they well give you all the rear fill you need and sound good...
if you need me to explain further on the 4way thing feel free to ask.
Chronos
SHILL86 on 09/8/2004 19:40:09
This is my first system, so I'm not looking for anything spectacular, you know what I'm saying. I'm on an ultra low budget right now (I'm in highschool and I don't have a job). Plus I'm buying my brother's system (2 JL subs & 2 JL amps) for around $300-$330. Then I'll probably need a new batt. That'll cost some $$$.
I was looking at the MA and CDT speakers you suggested, but I really don't want to spend $150. I really don't even want to spend over $100, but I know I have to to get decent speakers. I just want to replace my stocks with some decent yet inexpensive speakers. I was just thinking of going to Wal-Mart at first and buying some LA, but I know how booty they are.
I just want some speakers with decent mids and highs. I don't want all bass in my car. I want to hear the music and lyrics. (I know most people on here say I don't need 6x9's, but I want them anyways. Just in case my subs blow or something, I still have a little pound in my ride, you know. Plus my brother has used the subs for 2 or 3 years now).
That is why I either want to get one of these sets, but suggestions are welcomed.
A.) JVC HX series 6.5's($39.95) & 6x9's($69.95) = $110
B.) JVC XV series 6.5's($34.95) & 6x9's($49.95) = $85
C.) Pioneer TS-A1680R 6.5's($53.95) & either TS-A6970R 6x9's($59.95) or the 6980R 6x9's($69.95) = $115 or $125
Also, do you guys think these would sound good powered by a JL e4300 amp?
Again comments and suggestions are welcomed.
P.S. I just want to thank all of you guys for helping me out and giving me your insight. i really appreciate that. This is a great site with great people.
uochronos on 09/8/2004 21:33:13
ah i see well we can defiantly do some budgeting around here. one of are specialties. i well look around see what i can come up with... the cdt 2 ways i mentioned that ar 44.45 those would make good fronts as well. well above average mids and highs.
also just some info rear speakers arnt 100% nessicary i dont run any currently and didnt in my last car either. a set of good components in front and no rears for awhile may sound better then 4 lower quality speakers.
also if you want 4 lower speakers i would suggest the cdt coaxils up front and a set of alpine type S 2 wayb 6x9's in the front if you can find some cheap..
honestly i dont car at all for JVC speakers they never sound great to me compared to other brands in same price range... i have owned pioneer premier speakers they where aweful harsh sounding at high frequencies.
i well check some sites out see what i can find for under 100$ with a bit of shopping i'm sure we can find you a great set up within budget.
Chronos
uochronos on 09/8/2004 21:49:18
ok here is some good gear for good prices i have found so far
http://www.thezeb.com/detail.aspx?ID=1087
http://www.thezeb.com/detail.aspx?ID=2801
also almost all the ma audio stuff on www.thezeb.com is under 100$ so i would check itr all out... may consider useing 6.5 drivers in rear even if not the ones i suggested i couldnt find a single set of 6x9 speakers that where decent that where less then 80$.
swez on 09/9/2004 09:52:19
CDT Classic Comps are a very good option for high SQ applications. They are priced well below similar performance models like Focal, Diamond, MB Quartz and others. But, if that is out of your range for now, MA Audio will perform well at a modest price.
About 4-way 6x9's... I used them on my last install and they were good for bass and mids. But the tweeters and super tweeters were not all that swift. Cheap crossovers and low budget tweeters are a waste. I will be using 2-ways only in the next install. Comps up front and coaxials in back as I too, like rear fill and full range sound in my ride. It's more a preference than a rule of thumb.
I too, prefer round cones to ovals. Better sound characteristics with rounds than ovals. A simple mounting plate is all that's needed to convert 6x9 openings to 6.5" ones. They even make plate mounted rounds (comps) that fit into 5x7/6x8 openings for most trucks these days. Much better sound that oval coaxials in most cases.
Swez
SHILL86 on 09/9/2004 16:16:12
What do you guys think of MA Y2065K 6.5's up front and MA Y2069K 6x9's in the rear? I was looking at some of your guys suggestions and saw these for hella cheap.
I still might get a set of comps up front and 6.5's in the rear as some of you guys suggested. I just don't want speakers up front and none in the rear. Like Swez, I'd prefer rear fill and full range sound. And I do have tweets up front, albeit stock tweets. I'll replace those later unless I do get some comps.
I really am considering the MA Audio Comps uochronos mentioned. They look real nice and you guys say they sound nice. I might get those for up front and either the MA 6.5's or 6x9's I mentioned at the top of this reply, or the CDT CL-6X 6.5's for the rear.
Those MA Comps can handle 150w rms. The MA 6x9's I mentioned can handle 130w rms. And the MA 6.5's I mentioned can handle 90w rms. I'll probably be giving each speaker only about 45w with my amp. So if I do get the comps and either the 6x9's or 6.5's, will they sound good with the amount of power I will be giving them? And will they get messed up?
Thanks for the suggestions.
compvr15s on 09/9/2004 16:41:33
with 45 watts of power, the speakers will really scream.. giving them lets say 90 watts will only increase the audio level 3db, more than likely you wont even know the difference, heres the rule every time you double the current power you have you will net a 3db gain... so going from the HU amp, lets say roughly 20watts rms, you will be gettin 3 db gain by amping them with 45watts, and then another 3 db gain by giving them their rms rated power if its 90 watts... good thing about amping speakers compared to runnin off the head unit you get a cleaner more undistored signal at higher volumes... im sure you will be happy with the MAs heard a similar configuration in a van, ma comps up front and ma 6x9s in the back, not sure how much power, maybe even off the head unit, definitly turned my head for the price, another decent brand for a low price is audiobahn, have heard many of thier speakers used in setups. if i was you, id run 6.5 comps up front, a modest set of 6x9s in the back, dont need to be the greatest because your front speakers are going to be what you mainly hear anyway... you will love the difference from your factory speakers to your aftermaket speaks. good luck, any questions?ask away
SHILL86 on 09/9/2004 17:02:52
I think I will probably get the MA comps. The 6x9's I am looking at are either the MA Y2069K's, JVC XV 6x9's, or some Pioneer 6x9's. They are all really cheap and I just want to know how they all compare to each other. I might get some 6.5's for the rear though. But I have read reviews on mounting plates and they have been mixed. I don't think I really want to mess with those anyways.
So I don't know if I want the MA comps up front and 6x9's in the rear, or 2 or 3-way 6.5's up front and 2 or 3-way 6x9's in the rear.
uochronos on 09/9/2004 17:36:28
sounds like you have a solid plan... only thing i still suggest is going with 6.5's in the rear as well and not the 6x9's not only are 6.5's cheaper but they well sound alot better.... 6x9 arnt great for SQ at all. a good set of 2way 6.5's well really sound nice back there though,..
also as compvr already said 45watts rms per channel well really make them come to life. everytime you double power you only gain +3db of volume not much at all. at 18watts rms( a normal aftermarket HU) most speakers dont sound real full. but at 40-70rms you wellg et a nice full sound and good sq. anything after that is really just to gain the little extra volume.
as for a mounting plate i use them in every install i have done(damn ford using 6x8's in all there vehicles) and i made some of them and had some made. they cost less then 25$ to be made from plexiglass and they took me maybe 20minutes to install. a mounting plate doesnt change the way they sound just changes the size of the hole... only time i have seen problems is my friend who only used 2 screws to hold each one down and it rattles.. jsut use common sense and secure it properly.
as for going with comps or 2/3 way's the main differnce well be this in a 2/3way coaxil design they use cheap filters and crossovers built into the speakers. where a comp set you get a seperate corssover that has good nice components in it... literal 2/3 ways comapraed to comp's is like night and day in my opinion. in my experience 2/3 way coaxils sound muddy in the midrange area. really the extra money you pay for comps is money spent on a nice crossover system.
hope this helps
Chronos
SHILL86 on 09/9/2004 18:00:06
I'm pretty sure now that I will go with the MA Comps up front. I still don't know about the rear though. 6.5's are cheaper and do sound better than 6x9's. I am only thinking of getting 6x9's just in case my subs blow or go out for some strange reason (they have been in use for 2 or 3 years now). If my subs do go out I will still have a little thump.
What 6.5's or 6x9's should I get? The JVC XV series? The MA Y20 series? Pioneers? CDT's? They are all reletivly cheap. How do they all compare to each other? Any others I should consider?
Dynamat. Does this stuff really work? My brother said he used some and it really did't make a difference. I'm thinking of getting some for the trunk and liscence plate. I don't feel like using any for the doors, I'm lazy like that.
uochronos on 09/9/2004 18:11:59
i love dynamat i use Edead from www.edesignaudio.com same stuff way cheaper made by a differnt company.
as for what brand rear speakers iw ould say CDT, and MA are the best brands out of those listed. although the others arent slouches either.
as for the subs going out these are JL audio subs right? i dont think they well go out if well taken car of. JL builds gear to last if you dont abuse them they well probaly keep working...
Hope this helps
Chronos
SHILL86 on 09/9/2004 22:12:26
I think I am 99% sure I am going to buy the MA Comps for up front. Do you guys know if they will fit up front in my Civic? I really don't want to do any drilling or cutting. I would go out and measure it, but the car is in the shop.
As for the subs, I think my brother told me he had like a lifetime warrenty on them and on one of the amps or something. So if one does blow I can get another one at no charge. So I guess I don't need the 6x9's in the rear just incase my subs go. That is if he does have a lifetime warrenty. I'm going to have to ask him again.
That being said, I've narrowed down my choices for the 6.5's in the rear to either:
A.) MA Audio's Y2065K 2-way 6.5's ($34.95)
B.) JVC's CS-XV620 2-way 6.5's ($34.95)
or
C.) JVC's CS-HX635 3-way 6.5's ($39.95)
If my bro doesn't have a warrenty the 6x9's are either:
A.) MA Audio's Y2069K 2-way 6x9's ($49.95)
or
B.) JVC's CS-XV6930 3-way 6x9's ($49.95)
Those, I'm guessing, are pretty good/decent speakers for a cheap price. What do you guys think?
P0werLifter on 09/9/2004 22:18:53
Im sticking with Chronos on this one, CDT and MA are the best brands out of the list you have there, But the others arnt bad either.
As far as dynamat, its waaay to expensive. But sound deadening does help cut out road noise, engine noise, etc. Not only that but if you do deaden the whole automobile it addsa bout +3 dB of SPL. I personally used BrownBread/B-Quietextreme (www.b-quiet.com) 150sqft inside the whole cab of the truck and i must say..it helps emmensly...id reccomend it if you have the time and money.
As for the subs, JL makes top of the line equipment. If your buddy didnt total abuse the subwoofers, and likewise you dont either, You should be fine .
-Jason
SHILL86 on 09/10/2004 17:08:47
The CDT's are $59.95 at thezeb.com. I really don't want to spend that much. I just wanna know which I should get out of the MA's or JVC's I mentioned? I mean I'll probably go with the MA's just so I have the same brand up front and in the rear. I'm kinda like that, but I don't know.
swez on 09/10/2004 19:59:44
MA makes some pretty nice gear. Have been in the game a long time and have some very good products. I don't think you'll be unhappy with them.
Swez
SHILL86 on 09/10/2004 20:08:23
I think I have my system chosen. I have my Alpine headunit. I have my JL subs and JL amps. I'll be getting the MA comps up front. And I'll be getting the MA Y20 series 6.5's for the rear. I am 99% sure this is what I will do.
What do you guys think of this system/setup? Pretty good sounding or not?
And thanks to everybody who gave me recomendations and suggestions. You guys really know your stuff and pointed me in the right direction. I really appreciate that. Thanks.
swez on 09/10/2004 20:26:47
That should be a fine player here. If your HU has EQ controls, this will greatly enhance your ability to "fine tune" any peaks or dips in audio performance from your system.
That means ability to boost/cut bass, vocals and drum kit to your liking. Each car has its own quirky peaks and dips as we move through the audio spectrum. Even though the speakers may sound fine in one car, they may sound very different in another vehicle. A multi-band EQ can help normalize that factor a lot.
How many bands of EQ? Depends on how picky you are. A 3-5 bander is not enough for my preferences. A 7-10 bander is much better for hard to tune applications. But, you won't know that aspect until the install is done. Just keep this idea on file. You may not need it after the install is finished. But if there is a hitch in your get-a-long, that's the solution.
Swez
SHILL86 on 09/10/2004 20:35:20
One more quick question. What is the difference between titanium tweets and silk tweets? Aren't silk tweets more natural sounding and titanium tweets louder or something? Because the MA Comps have silk tweets and the MA 6.5's have titanium tweets. Just wanted to know.
Thanks
swez on 09/10/2004 21:11:00
Yes, silks are more natural and smooth sounding for all types of music. Ti or metal domes are naturally brighter and can be a good solution to cut through heavy bass tracks with minimal power applied.
I have both silks and metal domes in some boxes I am working on in my shop. The silks are just that... smooth as silk. The Ti domes are very bright, almost harsh to my ears... but that's more a personal preference than anything else. It's up to you and your tase in music.
Swez
SHILL86 on 09/10/2004 22:20:28
Before I do go ahead and order these, I just want to make sure they will fit nice and snug. Does anybody know if these will fit in my Civic, or will I have to do modifications? If so, how much?
uochronos on 09/11/2004 02:30:08
to see what size speakers fit your car goto crutchfield.com and input your car it well tell you what sizes fit...
i belibe 6.5 are up front its that or 5.25 MA makes both if anything the 5.25 speakers are cheaper. as for the rears 6.5 we already explained a simple baffle to get those to fit very cheap and very simple.
just make sure you get the right size for the front it well be either 6.5 or 5.25.
very nie choice on the system i think you well be very pleased with the sound you well get. i think the titanium tweeters in the back well sound pretty nie actualy. like swez said they well cut threw the bass better. may have to dial the rears back a little if they get to loud but should be simple enough.
Chronos
SHILL86 on 09/11/2004 12:58:11
The mounting depth on the MA Comps is 3". Couldn't I buy a 1" speaker spacer, and that would cut down the depth to 2"?
The brand or speaker spacer and speaker adapter I am looking at is Scosche. Their stuff is really cheap at sounddomain.com. I've read mixed reviews on their stuff. Are they any good, or should I avoid?
P0werLifter on 09/11/2004 15:14:35
On most installs ive done, if i need a spacer, i use MDF..works great....a spacer is a spacer in my opinion GRIN
-Jason
SHILL86 on 09/11/2004 23:59:29
But if I did get a 1" spacer, would the mounting depth of my MA Comps be reduced from 3" to 2"? Is that how a spacer works? And Scosche, are they a decent brand or should I avoid.
Thanks
uochronos on 09/12/2004 03:32:38
yes your mounting depth would be 2 inch into the door instead of 3 inch with a 1 inch spacer. and i'm sure scoche well work fine. as PL said a spacer is a spaceer i have bought some for around 5-10$ for a pair and i have made several out of MDF or Plexi glass. just about anything well work hehe.
Chronos
swez on 09/12/2004 17:13:26
If you are not sure what size speakers you have in that car, go to Crutchfield.com and look up "what fits my vehicle". Just fill in the appropriate information requested and viola... you'll have your answer on speakers and HU designs that work.
Swez
Here:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ynk4LX1q3CV/cgi-bin/autoinfo/autoinfo.asp?s=0&cc=01&vehicleid=0
SHILL86 on 10/10/2004 19:58:44
Hey, I'm back again. I still haven't ordered my speakers from thezeb.com. I've been kind of side tracked lately with school and all.
Anyways, I'm about to order my speakers this time for sure. I'm just wondering about my component speakers. I was going to purchase the MA Audio Y3K6C Comp set which is $79.95. But looking more on thezeb I've found a Power Acoustik XP2K-60C Comp set for only $46.95. Plus, the Power Acoustik's are slim mount so I know they would fit in my car with really no modifications.
I'm just wondering if I should just go with the MA's like I was going to do, or if I should go with the Power Acoustik's? Is Power Acoustik even a good/decent brand?
SHILL86 on 10/10/2004 23:01:25
I decided to purchase the Power Acoustik Comps mainly because they were about $30 cheaper than the MA Comps, and because they should just plop right in my doors nice and easy. I hope I made the right choice.
uochronos on 10/11/2004 02:18:32
power acoutics makes some fine gear. they arnt going to be as great sounding as the MA's because i know there compoenent are great. but it does save time them being slim mount. i dont think you made a bad choice at all. if money is an issue then i think these well please you. definatly well be far superior to stock speakers and better then coaxils.
Chronos
SHILL86 on 10/16/2004 15:40:26
Hey, I just got my comps and speakers the other day. I will probably be hooking them up in about a week or so. I just have a few questions.
Does anybody know the rms rating for the Power Acoustik XP2K-60C comps? The top of the box says 150 watts rms, while the side of the box says 150 maximum watts.
About my subs. I have two JL W3v2 subs. The sealed enclosure range is 1.00 to 1.50 cu.ft. per sub. The box I bought is 1.00 cu.ft. per side/chamber. Now, I heard that the box does not take into account the space the subs will take up. Is this true? Also, what would the difference in sound be if instead of buying a 1.00 cu.ft. box, I bought a 1.25 or 1.50 cu.ft. box?
uochronos on 10/16/2004 22:09:48
the bigger the box the more boomy and deep the bass. aslo sub handles slightly less power in larger boxes. also if the box is 1cubic foot per sub then with the sub in the box well only be aournd .7-.8 cubic feet per sub..
as for the comps call the company that sounds fishy to me. i have heard some companies rate there speakers in paires so 150rms may mean for both sets and 75watts rms per set... but i do not know for sure. from the looks of it i would say they are in the 50-75watts rms range but i could be wrong.
Chronos
SHILL86 on 10/17/2004 01:27:50
So, if with the sub box is .7 to .8 cu.ft. with the subs installed, will I need to get a bigger box? JL's website says 1.00 to 1.50 cu.ft., but I don't know if that is with the subs installed or just an empty box.
swez on 10/17/2004 10:14:53
If you have a 1.0 cf enclosure, the sub displacement on the 12W3v2 is actually minimal. (0.07 ft^3 or 121 in^3) That means the actual enclosure is now 0.93 cf with sub installed. You won't notice any sound difference here. However, you can always add ~16 oz of polyfill/fiberglass to the interior of the box. This will add about 8-10% more "perceived" internal volume to the box. That makes up for the sub displacement losses. "NO PROBLEMS HERE" !!! I would expect good low bass along with a nice punch to them, in a 1.0 ft^3 sealed box. Worst case, if you don't get enough low bass, move to a larger box. (1.25 ft^3, is a very good choice if you have the room)
About the Power Acoustik XP2K-60C's, their website states 150 watts. It does not say if RMS or peak watts are that number. No matter here though. If you are using an amp that is rated at 45 RMS x 4, even if these speakers are 150 peak, that's about 75 RMS per unit. Not an issue here either. From a little research, it appears these are rated at 150 peak. (~75 RMS) $47.00/pr, @ Zeb.
Note: You can bridge the 4 channel amp to power the front speakers and use the HU to power the rear speakers. The amp is able to produce 150 RMS x 2 in bridged mode to a 4 ohm load. Plenty of power to cut through the bass. Just have to set the amp gains properly to an output level that does not overdrive your Comps.
Using a more powerful amp than speakers are rated for is a good thing. It prevents clipping during high spike transients in audio content. However, setting your gains properly (if bridged) is essential to keeping your speakers from getting too much continous power. That will blow them if you get it wrong.
Uhmmmm, why be concerned over future events that may never happen? (like blowing subs and needing decent rear speakers to cover bass) If you set up your system intelligently and don't abuse the gear, no fear of blowing a sub unless they have been abused before or you abuse them. If we use our gear in a manner that they were designed for... should not have any product failures.
FYI: (start sermon) I have been into audio for many years now. Have NEVER blown a speaker or fried an amp in 25 years. Why? Because I know when the system is being stressed and dial back on the power. There is more than one volume setting on our gear. We don't use turbo-boost all day long right? If we do... we'll spend a lot of time and money fixing the damage we caused by our own hand. Don't be a turbo-boost addict or it'll cost you plenty in the long run OK?. (end sermon)
In all, this seems to be shaping up very well. Good luck with your install and read the FAQ's on how to set up your system properly. Then you should few, if any problems later.
Swez
Old MAn Audio
SHILL86 on 10/17/2004 17:33:09
I'll probably just leave my box the way it is. I mean .93cu.ft. is not that much less than 1.00cu.ft., so I probably wouldn't hear a difference anyways. But if I don't like my sound I'll probably just use some polyfill or something.
I'm just wondering if I would hear a big difference between a 1.00cu.ft. enclosure and a 1.25cu.ft. enclosure? Because if I still didn't like the sound I was getting with my box filled with polyfill, I would just go up to Best Buy and buy a 1.25cu.ft. box.
uochronos on 10/17/2004 21:36:43
i can tell the differnce between .2 cubic feet chance fairly easy. the differnce betwen .93 and 1.25 would be significant but not that huge... i think you well be pleased with .93 though.
anyway good luck
Chronos
Replies (52)
ryan on 09/7/2004 17:28:00
What ru looking for in these speakers. To have SQ or are you looking for the 6x9's to give you sum bass?
SHILL86 on 09/7/2004 17:37:17
I'm going for SQ. I'm getting 2 JL W3v2's for the bass.
ryan on 09/7/2004 17:40:24
well with those subs i dont think you'll need the 6x9's and you could just leave them out to get more bass into the cabin and plus you wont know the difference if you had them in or not i dont think. See what sum of the gold think. Are you going to be amping the front speakers?
SHILL86 on 09/7/2004 18:10:19
Yeah, I don't know what the sum of the gold thing is but I do plan on amping the front speakers.
alanjlamore on 09/7/2004 18:47:52
I think he means see what the members on this forum who have a gold metal next to their name think. These guys are known for their experience and great advice.
There are a lot of great articles on this site too, if you have some extra time while waiting for some of the more experienced guys to give their advice.
You've definitly come to the right place for good un-biased advice on how to build a great system. Good luck!
SHILL86 on 09/7/2004 19:10:11
Thanks for the info... this is a great site
P0werLifter on 09/7/2004 19:44:26
I havnt dealth with JVC's products personally, but I'm sure some of the others on the forum has.
If you dont have your heart set on the JVC's, I can recomend an awesome set of component speakers that will blow you mind away. You wont really need the 6x9 as much if your going to be adding the JL audio subs in the near future.
For the cost of the JVC speakers, 6.5's (89.95) and the 6x9 (119.95)= $208 you could purchase a set of high quality CDT
CL-61 component speakers from www.thezeb.com for 149.95.
http://www.thezeb.com/detail.aspx?ID=9415
Just about everyone on this forum highly recomends these. And you wont need as big of an amplifier to run these effectivly.
Im sure Swez, chronos, ttocs or some of the other gurus around here will be along shortly.
-Jason
SHILL86 on 09/7/2004 20:08:24
According to thezeb.com the JVC 6x9's are $69.95 and the 6.5's are $39.95. That is about $110. I think that is a good deal. I just wonder if these will sound good with the watts I will be giving them. I was also looking at the JVC CS-XV 6x9's and 6.5's. Those would cost me about $85 all together and the rms ratings seem more reasonable to what I plan on giving them (75w). I just want to replace my stock speakers. I'll probably replace my stock tweets around X-mas and get an Optima car battery. I am really looking at buying one of these sets of JVC speakers, but any suggestions will be welcomed.
swez on 09/7/2004 20:19:35
Agreed, The CDT Comps up front are an excellent SQ choice ih high definition speakers at well below market prices for similar quality speakers.
The JL amp will power the CDT's well if you bridge it to a 2 channel amp (more clean power) to speakers. If you want rear channel speakers... that's fine. More a personal preference on your part. (I happen to like some rear fill for good staging... It's like an 80/20 thing... 80% power to fronts, 20% to rears) The HU amps will do that job well enough if you so choose.
Finally, the subs mentioned are great products too. Just be aware that your car electrical system can only provide so much power to a pair of amps. Most typical cars need 40-60 amperes of current to perform properly. Anything above that left in the ALT, is fair game to use. In a smaller Import like the Civic, I would guess you have ~80-85A (at 2000 RPM or higher) of current from a stock ALT. (check that one out please)
The 4 channel will pull close to 40A at full power That leaves no extra power for even a modest sub amp. I see some electrical upgrades in the picture if you try to run a sub amp larger than ~250 watts (RMS).
Other than that, a great system in the making... if you are will to cough up the extra cash for a 150A ALT and a larger BAT.
Swez
P0werLifter on 09/7/2004 20:21:42
My mistake, i was getting the prices for the HX series from the JVC's website. But the CDT's are awesome speakers, just all up to personal preference.
-Jason
SHILL86 on 09/7/2004 21:10:37
I'm guessing that if I do get the JVC HX series, they will not sound great. With the amount of power I will be giving them (75w), I think I will be underpowering them too much. I don't know though. Any suggestions?
SHILL86 on 09/7/2004 22:45:33
I just found out that the amp I will be using to run whatever 6x9's and 6.5's I get is not the JL 300/4 Slash Series, but the JL e4300 amp instead. I don't know if that makes a difference or not.
Also, what should I get first? A capacitor or an Optima Yellow Top battery to help stop dimming lights.
-Thanks-
ryan on 09/7/2004 23:26:31
To save you money first upgrade the magic 3 wires. Those are alt to +battery, ground to -battery, and engine to -battery. Just to make sure let someone verify the engine to -battery one because im not 100% positive on that. You should upgrade the wires at least to 4guage or bigger (2 or 0/1). This will help the current flow faster for your electrical needs. And if that doesnt help either think of investing in a bigger alt. which is the best solution if you have more then slight dimming or get a Yellow Top.
I have to say it feels nice to be back here helping people out again.
uochronos on 09/8/2004 02:35:45
jumping in here a bit late but just throwing my 2 sense in... if your running good comps up front you could really go without the 6x9's if your an SQ kind of person 6x9's well justy hold you back... perhaps mount a set of 6.5" 2 ways back there? these well get much better SQ then a 6x9..... the only thing i would ever suggest 6x9 for is a cheap system where you want to get alot of bass from rear speakers.
as for thye diumming question... ialways upgrade battery first if its minor dimming. if its severe dimming then an alternator upgrade is going to be needed.. i and many others here do not recomend capsacitors they have there places but that place if not to stop dimming. they are really only good for covering the power needed by big bass spikes. if your dimming then upgrade battery and if you still get dimming then an alternator upgrade is going to be needed. a capacittor should be the last electrical upgrade and only if you need it for high bass spikes.
i would say a set of comps upfront and a set of 2way 6.5 mounted in 6x9 spot would be a great way to get reasonably priced SQ. i defiantly suggest CDT... but i have seen some other excelent deals on Component speakers latly at www.thezeb.com and www.partsexpress.com say a pair of decent such as the ma audio compnents on parts express for only 89.99 for 5.25 and 99.99 nfor 6.5 components. great deals my friend has a pair of these great SQ for the money.
and you can get a set of CDT 2 way 6.5 speakers 44.95 at www.thezeb.com. if you went with the MA components and the CDT 2 ways for the rear thats only 150$ for all the speakers and it would be very good SQ. well above average.
hope this helps
Chronos
SHILL86 on 09/8/2004 16:43:42
Thanks for the suggestions, but if I did get the MA comps and the CDT 2-ways, wouldn't I be underpowering them with the amp I will be using? Thus them not sounding good or will it still sound good with the watts I will be pumping to each speaker?
Also, what do you guys think of the Pioneer TS-A6980R 6x9 4-ways and the TS-A1680R 6.5 4-ways
uochronos on 09/8/2004 18:20:58
i never suggest 4 way speakers.. the most you should need is a 2 way really or a 3 way components..
and not you wouldnt be underpowering too much... i ran my cdt's off the HU 18watts rms per speaker it sounded good and they are 125rms... really over 50watts well be more then enough.
SHILL86 on 09/8/2004 18:38:52
Why do you never suggest 4-way speakers?
uochronos on 09/8/2004 18:51:31
well the mid and tweeter in a 3 way speaker basicaly do the same thing they are so close in size. then a 4 way speaker adds a second tweeter.. thats second tweeter isnt going to add more sound or better quality. its more pieces and cheap filters. and again 6x9's arnt going to ahev the SQ i think you want. however if you go with 6x9 speakers i suggest 2 way speakers. they well give you all the rear fill you need and sound good...
if you need me to explain further on the 4way thing feel free to ask.
Chronos
SHILL86 on 09/8/2004 19:40:09
This is my first system, so I'm not looking for anything spectacular, you know what I'm saying. I'm on an ultra low budget right now (I'm in highschool and I don't have a job). Plus I'm buying my brother's system (2 JL subs & 2 JL amps) for around $300-$330. Then I'll probably need a new batt. That'll cost some $$$.
I was looking at the MA and CDT speakers you suggested, but I really don't want to spend $150. I really don't even want to spend over $100, but I know I have to to get decent speakers. I just want to replace my stocks with some decent yet inexpensive speakers. I was just thinking of going to Wal-Mart at first and buying some LA, but I know how booty they are.
I just want some speakers with decent mids and highs. I don't want all bass in my car. I want to hear the music and lyrics. (I know most people on here say I don't need 6x9's, but I want them anyways. Just in case my subs blow or something, I still have a little pound in my ride, you know. Plus my brother has used the subs for 2 or 3 years now).
That is why I either want to get one of these sets, but suggestions are welcomed.
A.) JVC HX series 6.5's($39.95) & 6x9's($69.95) = $110
B.) JVC XV series 6.5's($34.95) & 6x9's($49.95) = $85
C.) Pioneer TS-A1680R 6.5's($53.95) & either TS-A6970R 6x9's($59.95) or the 6980R 6x9's($69.95) = $115 or $125
Also, do you guys think these would sound good powered by a JL e4300 amp?
Again comments and suggestions are welcomed.
P.S. I just want to thank all of you guys for helping me out and giving me your insight. i really appreciate that. This is a great site with great people.
uochronos on 09/8/2004 21:33:13
ah i see well we can defiantly do some budgeting around here. one of are specialties. i well look around see what i can come up with... the cdt 2 ways i mentioned that ar 44.45 those would make good fronts as well. well above average mids and highs.
also just some info rear speakers arnt 100% nessicary i dont run any currently and didnt in my last car either. a set of good components in front and no rears for awhile may sound better then 4 lower quality speakers.
also if you want 4 lower speakers i would suggest the cdt coaxils up front and a set of alpine type S 2 wayb 6x9's in the front if you can find some cheap..
honestly i dont car at all for JVC speakers they never sound great to me compared to other brands in same price range... i have owned pioneer premier speakers they where aweful harsh sounding at high frequencies.
i well check some sites out see what i can find for under 100$ with a bit of shopping i'm sure we can find you a great set up within budget.
Chronos
uochronos on 09/8/2004 21:49:18
ok here is some good gear for good prices i have found so far
http://www.thezeb.com/detail.aspx?ID=1087
http://www.thezeb.com/detail.aspx?ID=2801
also almost all the ma audio stuff on www.thezeb.com is under 100$ so i would check itr all out... may consider useing 6.5 drivers in rear even if not the ones i suggested i couldnt find a single set of 6x9 speakers that where decent that where less then 80$.
swez on 09/9/2004 09:52:19
CDT Classic Comps are a very good option for high SQ applications. They are priced well below similar performance models like Focal, Diamond, MB Quartz and others. But, if that is out of your range for now, MA Audio will perform well at a modest price.
About 4-way 6x9's... I used them on my last install and they were good for bass and mids. But the tweeters and super tweeters were not all that swift. Cheap crossovers and low budget tweeters are a waste. I will be using 2-ways only in the next install. Comps up front and coaxials in back as I too, like rear fill and full range sound in my ride. It's more a preference than a rule of thumb.
I too, prefer round cones to ovals. Better sound characteristics with rounds than ovals. A simple mounting plate is all that's needed to convert 6x9 openings to 6.5" ones. They even make plate mounted rounds (comps) that fit into 5x7/6x8 openings for most trucks these days. Much better sound that oval coaxials in most cases.
Swez
SHILL86 on 09/9/2004 16:16:12
What do you guys think of MA Y2065K 6.5's up front and MA Y2069K 6x9's in the rear? I was looking at some of your guys suggestions and saw these for hella cheap.
I still might get a set of comps up front and 6.5's in the rear as some of you guys suggested. I just don't want speakers up front and none in the rear. Like Swez, I'd prefer rear fill and full range sound. And I do have tweets up front, albeit stock tweets. I'll replace those later unless I do get some comps.
I really am considering the MA Audio Comps uochronos mentioned. They look real nice and you guys say they sound nice. I might get those for up front and either the MA 6.5's or 6x9's I mentioned at the top of this reply, or the CDT CL-6X 6.5's for the rear.
Those MA Comps can handle 150w rms. The MA 6x9's I mentioned can handle 130w rms. And the MA 6.5's I mentioned can handle 90w rms. I'll probably be giving each speaker only about 45w with my amp. So if I do get the comps and either the 6x9's or 6.5's, will they sound good with the amount of power I will be giving them? And will they get messed up?
Thanks for the suggestions.
compvr15s on 09/9/2004 16:41:33
with 45 watts of power, the speakers will really scream.. giving them lets say 90 watts will only increase the audio level 3db, more than likely you wont even know the difference, heres the rule every time you double the current power you have you will net a 3db gain... so going from the HU amp, lets say roughly 20watts rms, you will be gettin 3 db gain by amping them with 45watts, and then another 3 db gain by giving them their rms rated power if its 90 watts... good thing about amping speakers compared to runnin off the head unit you get a cleaner more undistored signal at higher volumes... im sure you will be happy with the MAs heard a similar configuration in a van, ma comps up front and ma 6x9s in the back, not sure how much power, maybe even off the head unit, definitly turned my head for the price, another decent brand for a low price is audiobahn, have heard many of thier speakers used in setups. if i was you, id run 6.5 comps up front, a modest set of 6x9s in the back, dont need to be the greatest because your front speakers are going to be what you mainly hear anyway... you will love the difference from your factory speakers to your aftermaket speaks. good luck, any questions?ask away
SHILL86 on 09/9/2004 17:02:52
I think I will probably get the MA comps. The 6x9's I am looking at are either the MA Y2069K's, JVC XV 6x9's, or some Pioneer 6x9's. They are all really cheap and I just want to know how they all compare to each other. I might get some 6.5's for the rear though. But I have read reviews on mounting plates and they have been mixed. I don't think I really want to mess with those anyways.
So I don't know if I want the MA comps up front and 6x9's in the rear, or 2 or 3-way 6.5's up front and 2 or 3-way 6x9's in the rear.
uochronos on 09/9/2004 17:36:28
sounds like you have a solid plan... only thing i still suggest is going with 6.5's in the rear as well and not the 6x9's not only are 6.5's cheaper but they well sound alot better.... 6x9 arnt great for SQ at all. a good set of 2way 6.5's well really sound nice back there though,..
also as compvr already said 45watts rms per channel well really make them come to life. everytime you double power you only gain +3db of volume not much at all. at 18watts rms( a normal aftermarket HU) most speakers dont sound real full. but at 40-70rms you wellg et a nice full sound and good sq. anything after that is really just to gain the little extra volume.
as for a mounting plate i use them in every install i have done(damn ford using 6x8's in all there vehicles) and i made some of them and had some made. they cost less then 25$ to be made from plexiglass and they took me maybe 20minutes to install. a mounting plate doesnt change the way they sound just changes the size of the hole... only time i have seen problems is my friend who only used 2 screws to hold each one down and it rattles.. jsut use common sense and secure it properly.
as for going with comps or 2/3 way's the main differnce well be this in a 2/3way coaxil design they use cheap filters and crossovers built into the speakers. where a comp set you get a seperate corssover that has good nice components in it... literal 2/3 ways comapraed to comp's is like night and day in my opinion. in my experience 2/3 way coaxils sound muddy in the midrange area. really the extra money you pay for comps is money spent on a nice crossover system.
hope this helps
Chronos
SHILL86 on 09/9/2004 18:00:06
I'm pretty sure now that I will go with the MA Comps up front. I still don't know about the rear though. 6.5's are cheaper and do sound better than 6x9's. I am only thinking of getting 6x9's just in case my subs blow or go out for some strange reason (they have been in use for 2 or 3 years now). If my subs do go out I will still have a little thump.
What 6.5's or 6x9's should I get? The JVC XV series? The MA Y20 series? Pioneers? CDT's? They are all reletivly cheap. How do they all compare to each other? Any others I should consider?
Dynamat. Does this stuff really work? My brother said he used some and it really did't make a difference. I'm thinking of getting some for the trunk and liscence plate. I don't feel like using any for the doors, I'm lazy like that.
uochronos on 09/9/2004 18:11:59
i love dynamat i use Edead from www.edesignaudio.com same stuff way cheaper made by a differnt company.
as for what brand rear speakers iw ould say CDT, and MA are the best brands out of those listed. although the others arent slouches either.
as for the subs going out these are JL audio subs right? i dont think they well go out if well taken car of. JL builds gear to last if you dont abuse them they well probaly keep working...
Hope this helps
Chronos
SHILL86 on 09/9/2004 22:12:26
I think I am 99% sure I am going to buy the MA Comps for up front. Do you guys know if they will fit up front in my Civic? I really don't want to do any drilling or cutting. I would go out and measure it, but the car is in the shop.
As for the subs, I think my brother told me he had like a lifetime warrenty on them and on one of the amps or something. So if one does blow I can get another one at no charge. So I guess I don't need the 6x9's in the rear just incase my subs go. That is if he does have a lifetime warrenty. I'm going to have to ask him again.
That being said, I've narrowed down my choices for the 6.5's in the rear to either:
A.) MA Audio's Y2065K 2-way 6.5's ($34.95)
B.) JVC's CS-XV620 2-way 6.5's ($34.95)
or
C.) JVC's CS-HX635 3-way 6.5's ($39.95)
If my bro doesn't have a warrenty the 6x9's are either:
A.) MA Audio's Y2069K 2-way 6x9's ($49.95)
or
B.) JVC's CS-XV6930 3-way 6x9's ($49.95)
Those, I'm guessing, are pretty good/decent speakers for a cheap price. What do you guys think?
P0werLifter on 09/9/2004 22:18:53
Im sticking with Chronos on this one, CDT and MA are the best brands out of the list you have there, But the others arnt bad either.
As far as dynamat, its waaay to expensive. But sound deadening does help cut out road noise, engine noise, etc. Not only that but if you do deaden the whole automobile it addsa bout +3 dB of SPL. I personally used BrownBread/B-Quietextreme (www.b-quiet.com) 150sqft inside the whole cab of the truck and i must say..it helps emmensly...id reccomend it if you have the time and money.
As for the subs, JL makes top of the line equipment. If your buddy didnt total abuse the subwoofers, and likewise you dont either, You should be fine .
-Jason
SHILL86 on 09/10/2004 17:08:47
The CDT's are $59.95 at thezeb.com. I really don't want to spend that much. I just wanna know which I should get out of the MA's or JVC's I mentioned? I mean I'll probably go with the MA's just so I have the same brand up front and in the rear. I'm kinda like that, but I don't know.
swez on 09/10/2004 19:59:44
MA makes some pretty nice gear. Have been in the game a long time and have some very good products. I don't think you'll be unhappy with them.
Swez
SHILL86 on 09/10/2004 20:08:23
I think I have my system chosen. I have my Alpine headunit. I have my JL subs and JL amps. I'll be getting the MA comps up front. And I'll be getting the MA Y20 series 6.5's for the rear. I am 99% sure this is what I will do.
What do you guys think of this system/setup? Pretty good sounding or not?
And thanks to everybody who gave me recomendations and suggestions. You guys really know your stuff and pointed me in the right direction. I really appreciate that. Thanks.
swez on 09/10/2004 20:26:47
That should be a fine player here. If your HU has EQ controls, this will greatly enhance your ability to "fine tune" any peaks or dips in audio performance from your system.
That means ability to boost/cut bass, vocals and drum kit to your liking. Each car has its own quirky peaks and dips as we move through the audio spectrum. Even though the speakers may sound fine in one car, they may sound very different in another vehicle. A multi-band EQ can help normalize that factor a lot.
How many bands of EQ? Depends on how picky you are. A 3-5 bander is not enough for my preferences. A 7-10 bander is much better for hard to tune applications. But, you won't know that aspect until the install is done. Just keep this idea on file. You may not need it after the install is finished. But if there is a hitch in your get-a-long, that's the solution.
Swez
SHILL86 on 09/10/2004 20:35:20
One more quick question. What is the difference between titanium tweets and silk tweets? Aren't silk tweets more natural sounding and titanium tweets louder or something? Because the MA Comps have silk tweets and the MA 6.5's have titanium tweets. Just wanted to know.
Thanks
swez on 09/10/2004 21:11:00
Yes, silks are more natural and smooth sounding for all types of music. Ti or metal domes are naturally brighter and can be a good solution to cut through heavy bass tracks with minimal power applied.
I have both silks and metal domes in some boxes I am working on in my shop. The silks are just that... smooth as silk. The Ti domes are very bright, almost harsh to my ears... but that's more a personal preference than anything else. It's up to you and your tase in music.
Swez
SHILL86 on 09/10/2004 22:20:28
Before I do go ahead and order these, I just want to make sure they will fit nice and snug. Does anybody know if these will fit in my Civic, or will I have to do modifications? If so, how much?
uochronos on 09/11/2004 02:30:08
to see what size speakers fit your car goto crutchfield.com and input your car it well tell you what sizes fit...
i belibe 6.5 are up front its that or 5.25 MA makes both if anything the 5.25 speakers are cheaper. as for the rears 6.5 we already explained a simple baffle to get those to fit very cheap and very simple.
just make sure you get the right size for the front it well be either 6.5 or 5.25.
very nie choice on the system i think you well be very pleased with the sound you well get. i think the titanium tweeters in the back well sound pretty nie actualy. like swez said they well cut threw the bass better. may have to dial the rears back a little if they get to loud but should be simple enough.
Chronos
SHILL86 on 09/11/2004 12:58:11
The mounting depth on the MA Comps is 3". Couldn't I buy a 1" speaker spacer, and that would cut down the depth to 2"?
The brand or speaker spacer and speaker adapter I am looking at is Scosche. Their stuff is really cheap at sounddomain.com. I've read mixed reviews on their stuff. Are they any good, or should I avoid?
P0werLifter on 09/11/2004 15:14:35
On most installs ive done, if i need a spacer, i use MDF..works great....a spacer is a spacer in my opinion GRIN
-Jason
SHILL86 on 09/11/2004 23:59:29
But if I did get a 1" spacer, would the mounting depth of my MA Comps be reduced from 3" to 2"? Is that how a spacer works? And Scosche, are they a decent brand or should I avoid.
Thanks
uochronos on 09/12/2004 03:32:38
yes your mounting depth would be 2 inch into the door instead of 3 inch with a 1 inch spacer. and i'm sure scoche well work fine. as PL said a spacer is a spaceer i have bought some for around 5-10$ for a pair and i have made several out of MDF or Plexi glass. just about anything well work hehe.
Chronos
swez on 09/12/2004 17:13:26
If you are not sure what size speakers you have in that car, go to Crutchfield.com and look up "what fits my vehicle". Just fill in the appropriate information requested and viola... you'll have your answer on speakers and HU designs that work.
Swez
Here:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ynk4LX1q3CV/cgi-bin/autoinfo/autoinfo.asp?s=0&cc=01&vehicleid=0
SHILL86 on 10/10/2004 19:58:44
Hey, I'm back again. I still haven't ordered my speakers from thezeb.com. I've been kind of side tracked lately with school and all.
Anyways, I'm about to order my speakers this time for sure. I'm just wondering about my component speakers. I was going to purchase the MA Audio Y3K6C Comp set which is $79.95. But looking more on thezeb I've found a Power Acoustik XP2K-60C Comp set for only $46.95. Plus, the Power Acoustik's are slim mount so I know they would fit in my car with really no modifications.
I'm just wondering if I should just go with the MA's like I was going to do, or if I should go with the Power Acoustik's? Is Power Acoustik even a good/decent brand?
SHILL86 on 10/10/2004 23:01:25
I decided to purchase the Power Acoustik Comps mainly because they were about $30 cheaper than the MA Comps, and because they should just plop right in my doors nice and easy. I hope I made the right choice.
uochronos on 10/11/2004 02:18:32
power acoutics makes some fine gear. they arnt going to be as great sounding as the MA's because i know there compoenent are great. but it does save time them being slim mount. i dont think you made a bad choice at all. if money is an issue then i think these well please you. definatly well be far superior to stock speakers and better then coaxils.
Chronos
SHILL86 on 10/16/2004 15:40:26
Hey, I just got my comps and speakers the other day. I will probably be hooking them up in about a week or so. I just have a few questions.
Does anybody know the rms rating for the Power Acoustik XP2K-60C comps? The top of the box says 150 watts rms, while the side of the box says 150 maximum watts.
About my subs. I have two JL W3v2 subs. The sealed enclosure range is 1.00 to 1.50 cu.ft. per sub. The box I bought is 1.00 cu.ft. per side/chamber. Now, I heard that the box does not take into account the space the subs will take up. Is this true? Also, what would the difference in sound be if instead of buying a 1.00 cu.ft. box, I bought a 1.25 or 1.50 cu.ft. box?
uochronos on 10/16/2004 22:09:48
the bigger the box the more boomy and deep the bass. aslo sub handles slightly less power in larger boxes. also if the box is 1cubic foot per sub then with the sub in the box well only be aournd .7-.8 cubic feet per sub..
as for the comps call the company that sounds fishy to me. i have heard some companies rate there speakers in paires so 150rms may mean for both sets and 75watts rms per set... but i do not know for sure. from the looks of it i would say they are in the 50-75watts rms range but i could be wrong.
Chronos
SHILL86 on 10/17/2004 01:27:50
So, if with the sub box is .7 to .8 cu.ft. with the subs installed, will I need to get a bigger box? JL's website says 1.00 to 1.50 cu.ft., but I don't know if that is with the subs installed or just an empty box.
swez on 10/17/2004 10:14:53
If you have a 1.0 cf enclosure, the sub displacement on the 12W3v2 is actually minimal. (0.07 ft^3 or 121 in^3) That means the actual enclosure is now 0.93 cf with sub installed. You won't notice any sound difference here. However, you can always add ~16 oz of polyfill/fiberglass to the interior of the box. This will add about 8-10% more "perceived" internal volume to the box. That makes up for the sub displacement losses. "NO PROBLEMS HERE" !!! I would expect good low bass along with a nice punch to them, in a 1.0 ft^3 sealed box. Worst case, if you don't get enough low bass, move to a larger box. (1.25 ft^3, is a very good choice if you have the room)
About the Power Acoustik XP2K-60C's, their website states 150 watts. It does not say if RMS or peak watts are that number. No matter here though. If you are using an amp that is rated at 45 RMS x 4, even if these speakers are 150 peak, that's about 75 RMS per unit. Not an issue here either. From a little research, it appears these are rated at 150 peak. (~75 RMS) $47.00/pr, @ Zeb.
Note: You can bridge the 4 channel amp to power the front speakers and use the HU to power the rear speakers. The amp is able to produce 150 RMS x 2 in bridged mode to a 4 ohm load. Plenty of power to cut through the bass. Just have to set the amp gains properly to an output level that does not overdrive your Comps.
Using a more powerful amp than speakers are rated for is a good thing. It prevents clipping during high spike transients in audio content. However, setting your gains properly (if bridged) is essential to keeping your speakers from getting too much continous power. That will blow them if you get it wrong.
Uhmmmm, why be concerned over future events that may never happen? (like blowing subs and needing decent rear speakers to cover bass) If you set up your system intelligently and don't abuse the gear, no fear of blowing a sub unless they have been abused before or you abuse them. If we use our gear in a manner that they were designed for... should not have any product failures.
FYI: (start sermon) I have been into audio for many years now. Have NEVER blown a speaker or fried an amp in 25 years. Why? Because I know when the system is being stressed and dial back on the power. There is more than one volume setting on our gear. We don't use turbo-boost all day long right? If we do... we'll spend a lot of time and money fixing the damage we caused by our own hand. Don't be a turbo-boost addict or it'll cost you plenty in the long run OK?. (end sermon)
In all, this seems to be shaping up very well. Good luck with your install and read the FAQ's on how to set up your system properly. Then you should few, if any problems later.
Swez
Old MAn Audio
SHILL86 on 10/17/2004 17:33:09
I'll probably just leave my box the way it is. I mean .93cu.ft. is not that much less than 1.00cu.ft., so I probably wouldn't hear a difference anyways. But if I don't like my sound I'll probably just use some polyfill or something.
I'm just wondering if I would hear a big difference between a 1.00cu.ft. enclosure and a 1.25cu.ft. enclosure? Because if I still didn't like the sound I was getting with my box filled with polyfill, I would just go up to Best Buy and buy a 1.25cu.ft. box.
uochronos on 10/17/2004 21:36:43
i can tell the differnce between .2 cubic feet chance fairly easy. the differnce betwen .93 and 1.25 would be significant but not that huge... i think you well be pleased with .93 though.
anyway good luck
Chronos
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