I was wondering which AMP would be best for these 2 Tweeters I am going to install... or if it would be best to work off of my Head Unit? (Alpine CDA-9807)
Infinity Reference 1001T 1" Tweeters
Power Handling, RMS: 50 Watts
Power Handling, Peak: 150 Watts
Sensitivity: 91dB
Frequency Response (±3dB): 2.5kHz - 21kHz
Impedance: 4 Ohms
I also purchased a 4 Channel AMP for my 4 - 5x7 Speakers. I was wondering what you suggest for Wiring.
AVIONIXX AXA 440.4
4 CHANNEL HIGH OUTPUT AMPLIFIER
MAX Power @ 4ohm 2x440 Watts Bridged
RMS Power @ 4ohm, 0.05% THD 4x85
RMS Power @ Bridged 4 ohm 0.5% THD 2x220
RMS Power @ 2 ohm, 0.5% THD 4x110
Power Bandwidth (Rated Power -1dB) 15Hz - 30kHz
Frequency Response (+0/-3dB) 5Hz - 70kHz
"A" Weighted Signal to Niose Ratio -90dBA
Channel Seperation 60dBA
Variable Input Level 150mV - 6V
Variable Frequency Bass EQ 25Hz - 80Hz
Variable Low Pass Crossover Filter 50Hz - 250Hz 12dB
Variable High Pass Crossover Filter 50Hz - 250Hz 12dB
My Subs right now aren't that great. I was looking for suggestions for 2 x 12" Subwoofers. (Not top-of-the line but something decent.) And an Amp/Box for these subs if it's not too much trouble. :)
Thanks!
*Donation* :)
Replies (5)
newcamr321 on 08/16/2004 04:53:43
Maybe you should put the "Make a Donation" button on the main page of the forums instead of just at the bottom of everyone's post? :)
For a second I thought you stopped accepting donations, heh.
Thanks again!
uochronos on 08/16/2004 05:42:20
those tweets well get very loud off the HU... dioesnt take much power at all to get them very loud,. howveer if you turn the gain down you can use that amp to run them as well.
swez on 08/16/2004 09:56:28
Agreed, the HU will have plenty of power to push the tweeters. If you linked them to your front channel speakers and ran them off the amp mentioned, would have to pad the tweeters as they would be very overpowering compared to the rest of the mix. Try the HU amps first.
Subs and amp... sure, what kind of budget do you have to work with and can you find out how large the ALT is in this vehicle? That Avionixx amp probably pulls close to 40A. all by itself. Am sure a decent bass amp added to the mix, will put the electrical system into distress mode quickly. See if you can find an ALT upgrade that will pack at least 150A for all your gear. The stock ALT is probably about 100A.
Swez
newcamr321 on 08/16/2004 19:13:23
Right now I have a 130 AMP Alternator. Where do you suggest that I find a replacement that packs 150A+ ?
My budget... well... I'm honestly not sure.
I was aiming for $700-900 for the Subs/Box/Amp
If it helps, I have a 3 Farad Cap and an Optima Yellow Top Battery.
Thanks Again!
swez on 08/17/2004 11:29:31
Your present ALT may get you by if not higher than ~40-50A of current draw. That 3 Farad Cap may help a bit on light dimming at hard bass hits, but if you note chonic power shortages, a larger ALT will be needed. It really depends on your listening habits.
Some larger cities have ALT rebuilding shops that can perhaps boost your stock ALT to that 150A mentioned. They often use a stronger diode bridge and more potent regulators. Some even offer larger coil sets and armature upgrades. You'll have to call around and see what is available. Also, some better autoparts dealers may have a line on beefier ALT upgrades that will drop right in. The other options are Stinger or Ohio Generator. They have some Monster ALTs available, but very expensive and some bracket mods may be needed to fit your vehicle.
What size Optima do you have? (CCA rating?)
As for subs, a pair of Adire Shiva's will do a nice job in sealed or ported enclosure. These can take a lot of input power, long throw voice coils allow more output than many lesser subs in that price range... $150.00/each.
A 500-600 watt Class D amp will drive a pair of these subs very well. Great SQ and good SPL. They are 8+8 DVC's, but when wire full parallel, you get a 2 ohm load to amp. If you go sealed, consider 1.0 -1.25 cf per sub. (internal airspace) Q-Logic and SubZone make many good sub enclosures for under $100.00. If you make your own, figure about $60.00 for all materials and 4-6 hours of work. Can buy precut panels at Home Depot... 3/4" MDF is best. The only challenge to making your own box, will be cutting a decent circle out for the subs.
As for amps, Audiobahn, Kicker, JBL, Orion, MTX, Rockford and many others make great amps. A Class D or T, MONO amp is recommended as they offer more power, less cost and are more efficient with power than 2 channel versions. Really, 600 RMS is plenty of power and average about 50A of current draw at full power. That stock ALT should take this with only minor light dimming, when you push the system hard.
Swez
Infinity Reference 1001T 1" Tweeters
Power Handling, RMS: 50 Watts
Power Handling, Peak: 150 Watts
Sensitivity: 91dB
Frequency Response (±3dB): 2.5kHz - 21kHz
Impedance: 4 Ohms
I also purchased a 4 Channel AMP for my 4 - 5x7 Speakers. I was wondering what you suggest for Wiring.
AVIONIXX AXA 440.4
4 CHANNEL HIGH OUTPUT AMPLIFIER
MAX Power @ 4ohm 2x440 Watts Bridged
RMS Power @ 4ohm, 0.05% THD 4x85
RMS Power @ Bridged 4 ohm 0.5% THD 2x220
RMS Power @ 2 ohm, 0.5% THD 4x110
Power Bandwidth (Rated Power -1dB) 15Hz - 30kHz
Frequency Response (+0/-3dB) 5Hz - 70kHz
"A" Weighted Signal to Niose Ratio -90dBA
Channel Seperation 60dBA
Variable Input Level 150mV - 6V
Variable Frequency Bass EQ 25Hz - 80Hz
Variable Low Pass Crossover Filter 50Hz - 250Hz 12dB
Variable High Pass Crossover Filter 50Hz - 250Hz 12dB
My Subs right now aren't that great. I was looking for suggestions for 2 x 12" Subwoofers. (Not top-of-the line but something decent.) And an Amp/Box for these subs if it's not too much trouble. :)
Thanks!
*Donation* :)
Replies (5)
newcamr321 on 08/16/2004 04:53:43
Maybe you should put the "Make a Donation" button on the main page of the forums instead of just at the bottom of everyone's post? :)
For a second I thought you stopped accepting donations, heh.
Thanks again!
uochronos on 08/16/2004 05:42:20
those tweets well get very loud off the HU... dioesnt take much power at all to get them very loud,. howveer if you turn the gain down you can use that amp to run them as well.
swez on 08/16/2004 09:56:28
Agreed, the HU will have plenty of power to push the tweeters. If you linked them to your front channel speakers and ran them off the amp mentioned, would have to pad the tweeters as they would be very overpowering compared to the rest of the mix. Try the HU amps first.
Subs and amp... sure, what kind of budget do you have to work with and can you find out how large the ALT is in this vehicle? That Avionixx amp probably pulls close to 40A. all by itself. Am sure a decent bass amp added to the mix, will put the electrical system into distress mode quickly. See if you can find an ALT upgrade that will pack at least 150A for all your gear. The stock ALT is probably about 100A.
Swez
newcamr321 on 08/16/2004 19:13:23
Right now I have a 130 AMP Alternator. Where do you suggest that I find a replacement that packs 150A+ ?
My budget... well... I'm honestly not sure.
I was aiming for $700-900 for the Subs/Box/Amp
If it helps, I have a 3 Farad Cap and an Optima Yellow Top Battery.
Thanks Again!
swez on 08/17/2004 11:29:31
Your present ALT may get you by if not higher than ~40-50A of current draw. That 3 Farad Cap may help a bit on light dimming at hard bass hits, but if you note chonic power shortages, a larger ALT will be needed. It really depends on your listening habits.
Some larger cities have ALT rebuilding shops that can perhaps boost your stock ALT to that 150A mentioned. They often use a stronger diode bridge and more potent regulators. Some even offer larger coil sets and armature upgrades. You'll have to call around and see what is available. Also, some better autoparts dealers may have a line on beefier ALT upgrades that will drop right in. The other options are Stinger or Ohio Generator. They have some Monster ALTs available, but very expensive and some bracket mods may be needed to fit your vehicle.
What size Optima do you have? (CCA rating?)
As for subs, a pair of Adire Shiva's will do a nice job in sealed or ported enclosure. These can take a lot of input power, long throw voice coils allow more output than many lesser subs in that price range... $150.00/each.
A 500-600 watt Class D amp will drive a pair of these subs very well. Great SQ and good SPL. They are 8+8 DVC's, but when wire full parallel, you get a 2 ohm load to amp. If you go sealed, consider 1.0 -1.25 cf per sub. (internal airspace) Q-Logic and SubZone make many good sub enclosures for under $100.00. If you make your own, figure about $60.00 for all materials and 4-6 hours of work. Can buy precut panels at Home Depot... 3/4" MDF is best. The only challenge to making your own box, will be cutting a decent circle out for the subs.
As for amps, Audiobahn, Kicker, JBL, Orion, MTX, Rockford and many others make great amps. A Class D or T, MONO amp is recommended as they offer more power, less cost and are more efficient with power than 2 channel versions. Really, 600 RMS is plenty of power and average about 50A of current draw at full power. That stock ALT should take this with only minor light dimming, when you push the system hard.
Swez
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