I was wanting to set up 2, 12 inch, 1000 watt max subs, with a 1400 watt amplifier for use in my home entertainment center. I figured out how to set everything up except where to wire the remote connection on the amplifier so that the amp would turn on.
Extra Info: I am planning to run the subs off of a basic stereo system, using a 110 to 12 volt converter, getting max output from the subs is not an issue.
I would appreciate any help from you experts that could be provided.
Replies (4)
uochronos on 08/11/2004 02:06:40
run the remote wire to the constant power and just have a switch.
where did you find a 110ac-12vdc converter capable of handling that much ampage i would think that would cost alot.
compvr15s on 08/11/2004 03:49:09
i was planning to do the same thing massdog, wanting to bring my subs into my house. my first choice was to use a car battery and a trickle charger to run my amp, but zwez recommended not doing this, due to size and looks. have you seen powered sub woofers for home audio use? they use plate amps that are built right into the box, this is what he recommended to me and this is what i recommend to you,
http://www.apexjr.com/Apexsenior.htm
this is a 350 watt at 4ohms plate amp(price is $159) very reasonable for that amount of power., that will feed your 12s plenty of power to shake your house down. how are your subs wired, they are single 4 ohm VCs or dual 2omh VCs you will want one amp per sub. if subs net out to 2 ohms each then you will want to wire them to a 4 ohm load and only use 1 amp, 175 watts to each 12 will still really make them subs bump, just be careful on your gains and settings. your other choice as uochronos mentioned is a power converter, here you are lookin to spend lots of money to do it this way, the car battery will work fine but it just takes up lots of space and dont look nice. uf you do choose the car battery set up, alls you have to do is run wire from your remote lead to a toggle switch then tap into the 12volt positive lead on the amp as chronos also mentioned. good luck with whatever you decide.
Massdog05 on 08/11/2004 08:34:48
So your saying that if I tap the remote into the positive lead without limiting the current that it won't blow anything? That's what I was worried about, I thought it might blow my amp. I'd appreciate it if you could send me another reply verifying that connecting the remote to the positive 12 volt supply will not blow anything.
--Thanks
Basically, this is only gonna be a temporary setup. The guy who bought the subs later found out that they were too big for his truck, so he wanted them set up as home subs until he could get them sold.
swez on 08/11/2004 10:15:47
The REM circuit is 12 volts and very low current. It will only take as much current as it needs, even though there is much more current available. You can install an inline fuse (say 0.5A) to REM line so that anything greater will blow the fuse. A safety valve basically.
You can either run a small gage wire (#18) from the convertor Positive terminal to REM w/ inline fuse and switch, or just shut off the power supply when done listening. The fuse is needed, but the switch is not.
Swez
Extra Info: I am planning to run the subs off of a basic stereo system, using a 110 to 12 volt converter, getting max output from the subs is not an issue.
I would appreciate any help from you experts that could be provided.
Replies (4)
uochronos on 08/11/2004 02:06:40
run the remote wire to the constant power and just have a switch.
where did you find a 110ac-12vdc converter capable of handling that much ampage i would think that would cost alot.
compvr15s on 08/11/2004 03:49:09
i was planning to do the same thing massdog, wanting to bring my subs into my house. my first choice was to use a car battery and a trickle charger to run my amp, but zwez recommended not doing this, due to size and looks. have you seen powered sub woofers for home audio use? they use plate amps that are built right into the box, this is what he recommended to me and this is what i recommend to you,
http://www.apexjr.com/Apexsenior.htm
this is a 350 watt at 4ohms plate amp(price is $159) very reasonable for that amount of power., that will feed your 12s plenty of power to shake your house down. how are your subs wired, they are single 4 ohm VCs or dual 2omh VCs you will want one amp per sub. if subs net out to 2 ohms each then you will want to wire them to a 4 ohm load and only use 1 amp, 175 watts to each 12 will still really make them subs bump, just be careful on your gains and settings. your other choice as uochronos mentioned is a power converter, here you are lookin to spend lots of money to do it this way, the car battery will work fine but it just takes up lots of space and dont look nice. uf you do choose the car battery set up, alls you have to do is run wire from your remote lead to a toggle switch then tap into the 12volt positive lead on the amp as chronos also mentioned. good luck with whatever you decide.
Massdog05 on 08/11/2004 08:34:48
So your saying that if I tap the remote into the positive lead without limiting the current that it won't blow anything? That's what I was worried about, I thought it might blow my amp. I'd appreciate it if you could send me another reply verifying that connecting the remote to the positive 12 volt supply will not blow anything.
--Thanks
Basically, this is only gonna be a temporary setup. The guy who bought the subs later found out that they were too big for his truck, so he wanted them set up as home subs until he could get them sold.
swez on 08/11/2004 10:15:47
The REM circuit is 12 volts and very low current. It will only take as much current as it needs, even though there is much more current available. You can install an inline fuse (say 0.5A) to REM line so that anything greater will blow the fuse. A safety valve basically.
You can either run a small gage wire (#18) from the convertor Positive terminal to REM w/ inline fuse and switch, or just shut off the power supply when done listening. The fuse is needed, but the switch is not.
Swez
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