Hi I have a MTX 801D amp on 2 kicker solbaric L5 2ohm DVC and INFINITY KAPPA 6 1/2 Component 2-way and maching 6x9 on and 4-channel INFINITY INI7540A amp and my head unit is a kenwood KDCV-7022.my question is that iam getting alot of power loss so i replaced altonator with a new 140 amp and a EXIDE 34dc48 deep cycle battery and still having power loss.some one told me to switch all power battery cables to 4 gauge cables and to ad a 1 farad cap and that might help. does anyone have any helping thoughs.
Replies (2)
swez on 08/3/2004 08:12:50
Assuming you have the subs wired for a net 2 ohms here yes?
This car may be a bit tricky as the electronics package on some early 90's Caddy's are highly regulated by the ECM. Check your voltage coming off the battery terminals and see what voltage range is a present at low and high charging rates. You might find ~13.4 volts is nominal after running a few minutes, bit slightly higher on start up.
Also, check your voltage drop when audio system is running. It may well drop below 13.0 volts at night w/ lights and A/C running. If this is true of your vehicle, using larger wires (than stock) may help get more current back to your battery and amp. What is the CCA rating on that new BAT? The wires to upgrade:
1. ALT to BAT
2. BAT to GND
3. Grounding strap from engine to body (use 2 straps)
Finally, use a min of #4 gage back to amps. I would go #2 if the amperage draw of both amplifiers exceeds 100 amperes of current. (add up your fuses and multiply that number by 0.8) If that number is over 100A., #2 gage may help. Make sure you have a solid, bare metal grounding link to both amps as well.
Swez
PS If you use the Cap, use only on the sub amp feed line.
swez on 08/5/2004 08:32:56
What's the status on this post? Any progress with power feeds to amps?
Swez
Replies (2)
swez on 08/3/2004 08:12:50
Assuming you have the subs wired for a net 2 ohms here yes?
This car may be a bit tricky as the electronics package on some early 90's Caddy's are highly regulated by the ECM. Check your voltage coming off the battery terminals and see what voltage range is a present at low and high charging rates. You might find ~13.4 volts is nominal after running a few minutes, bit slightly higher on start up.
Also, check your voltage drop when audio system is running. It may well drop below 13.0 volts at night w/ lights and A/C running. If this is true of your vehicle, using larger wires (than stock) may help get more current back to your battery and amp. What is the CCA rating on that new BAT? The wires to upgrade:
1. ALT to BAT
2. BAT to GND
3. Grounding strap from engine to body (use 2 straps)
Finally, use a min of #4 gage back to amps. I would go #2 if the amperage draw of both amplifiers exceeds 100 amperes of current. (add up your fuses and multiply that number by 0.8) If that number is over 100A., #2 gage may help. Make sure you have a solid, bare metal grounding link to both amps as well.
Swez
PS If you use the Cap, use only on the sub amp feed line.
swez on 08/5/2004 08:32:56
What's the status on this post? Any progress with power feeds to amps?
Swez
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
