Hey guys
I am installing a system for a friend of mine and I need to know which wiring combination would be best to achieve the power rating of the subwoofers. Here is the equipment:
2 Profile Baja BX10 10" Subwoofers
-------------------------------------------------------------
Specifications
-------------------------------------
Fs: 35
Qts: .57
Qms: 8.56
Qes: 0.62
Vas: 2.17
Xmas: .19
Re: 3.6
Le: .7
Mounting Depth: 4.5"
Maximum Power Handling: 200W
RMS Power Handling: 100W
Cone Type: Polypropylene
Magnet Size: 30 oz.
Voice Coil: 2", 2-Layer
Frequency Response: 20Hz - 1KHz
Sensitivity: 90dB
Butyl Rubber Surround: Yes
I assume the speakers are 4 ohm each but both the website and the manual do not specify what they are.
Sony Xplod XM-444W 4-Channel Amplifier
-------------------------------------------------------------
Features
-------------------------------------
-Channel Configuration 4 / 3 / 2
-Frequency Response 5Hz-80kHz
-12dB Built in Crossover
-2 x 444 Watts Max @ 2 OHM, 2 x 222 Watts Max @ 4 OHM
-2 x 160 Watts RMS @ 2 OHM, 2 x 80 Watts RMS @ 4 OHM
-4 x 160 Watts Max @ 2 OHM, 4 x 80 Watts Max @ 4 OHM
-4 x 40 Watts RMS @ 2 OHM, 4 x 35 Watts RMS @ 4 OHM
-High Pass Filter/Low Pass Filter (80Hz)
-High Level Speaker Input
-Dual Mode Capability
-Full Protection Circuit
-MOSFET Power Supply
-Gold Plated Terminals
ProBend Competition Bandpass Box by R/T
-------------------------------------------------------------
Specifications
-------------------------------------
for two 10" subwoofers
width: 28-1/4"
height: 13-5/16"
bottom depth: 16-1/2"
top depth: 12-7/8"
port holes: 2 per sub (total of 4)
port diameter: 2-1/2"
port length: 4-3/4"
7/8" MDF
So how should I wire the amp to the subwoofers?... there is a speaker output thing called BTL on the amp but I am not sure what it does or if I should use it for these subwoofers and if I should wire in series or parallel. Otherwise I was just planning on wiring each subwoofer to a channel (total of two channels). Also, there are front and rear RCA inputs as well as a BTL input setup... which one should I use for the subwoofers?
Thanks if you can help
~Soul Karver
Replies (7)
swez on 07/30/2004 18:49:34
SK,
These are 4 ohm subs. (Re =3.6 ohms) If you want to only use this 4 channel amp, best power wise to bridge down the rear 2 channels and run 2 subs in parallel per bridged channel. The way the specs read, that's about 80 watts RMS per sub. These subs are rated at 100 watts RMS.
This amp puzzles me... it says it can do 160 watts at a 2 ohm load in bridged mode? That is not the norm at all. Double check that spec as I think there is an error here. I believe the 80 watts RMS @ 4 ohm bridged... but not 2 ohm stable when bridged. It will fry at 2 ohms or go into protect a lot! I think the specs on this amp are not correct.
What can I say... this amp is not well suited to drive a pair of 4 ohm subs with any real power behind them. Would be well advised to use a Class D MONO amp that is rated between 200-300 RMS @ 2 ohms for this pairing of subs.
The BTL function??? Not sure what that is... Bless the Lord?
Swez
soul_karver on 07/31/2004 01:57:02
I looked BTL up and I guess it stands for Bridge-Tied-Load. Still don't know exactly what it does. How exactly do I bridge down the rear 2 channels and run them in parallel per bridged channel? (I have never bridged subwoofers before :S)
Also, what about the BTL input?
Thanks! ~Soul Karver
swez on 07/31/2004 08:00:40
Not very familiar with BTL circuit design and it may be key to what you are trying to do here. I would suggest getting a copy of the install/operations manuals from Sony before trying anything mentioned prior.
It won't be easy as the Sony website is very complex and difficult to navigate for car audio gear. Good luck as Sony is not always quick in response to older product models.
http://www.xplodsony.com/info/contact/
==================================================
The Sony XM-4060GTX is the closest model in current catalog to what you may have now. Here are the specs on that model:
http://www.xplodsony.com/products/?CATEGORY=Amp/EQ&MD=XM-4060GTX
This model says 150 watts bridged rear channels... into a 4 ohm load.
===================================================
There is a product finder box on this page. I used your ref p/n and it came back with no matches. Get the right model number and you may get the proper specs etc., for that amp.
Swez
soul_karver on 07/31/2004 15:46:00
Alright I got the system hooked up but there are 2 problems. First of all, the subwoofers aren't as loud as they should be... I heard the system in another car (plus an equalizer) and it was much louder. Second of all, when the subwoofers are playing there is a REALLY loud rattling sound comming from the 2 sony 6x9" speakers (3-way, 100w rms) in the back of the car. I disconnected the 2 6x9" speakers to see if the rattling would stop and it did not stop... does anyone know a way I can stop the rattling?
Thanks! ~Soul Karver
uochronos on 07/31/2004 15:55:26
ok first about the system being louder in another car, every system well sound differnt in a differnt car each car has its own freq. of cabin gain that can make a system way louder in certain cars and quiter in others. plus an equalizer can really boost those frequencies so that could be why it was louder.
as for the rattlingi'm assuming these 6x9's are on a rear deck in the car if so then this is not uncomon for it to rattle especial with subs close to it. i had this same problem bad in my '84 t-bird. i simply used some bolts and glue to make the rear deck more stabhle.... be carefull if you do this it is easy to damage the deck. also you dont want glue fumes around your speakers so those well have to be removed temporarily. so the glue can set over night then air the car out well.
soul_karver on 07/31/2004 17:03:24
ok i can try an equalizer
i swear the rattling sound is comming from the 6x9" speakers though not the rear deck. actually when I unplugged the 6x9" speakers the woofer cone STILL vibrated and rattling sound was the same loudness! So how can i stop them from vibrating? will installing a baffle fix the problem?
swez on 07/31/2004 17:08:18
This rattle noise, is it mechanical like loose grill covers, loose speakers or more like cone noises? The cures are different for each noise.
Yes, most likely need a set of rear baffles on the back side of the rear deck speakers here. I had the same problem on one install, bought some plastic baffles, added some stuffing and installed same over rear baskets. The rattles were gone, once the baffles were installed.
Swez
Swez
I am installing a system for a friend of mine and I need to know which wiring combination would be best to achieve the power rating of the subwoofers. Here is the equipment:
2 Profile Baja BX10 10" Subwoofers
-------------------------------------------------------------
Specifications
-------------------------------------
Fs: 35
Qts: .57
Qms: 8.56
Qes: 0.62
Vas: 2.17
Xmas: .19
Re: 3.6
Le: .7
Mounting Depth: 4.5"
Maximum Power Handling: 200W
RMS Power Handling: 100W
Cone Type: Polypropylene
Magnet Size: 30 oz.
Voice Coil: 2", 2-Layer
Frequency Response: 20Hz - 1KHz
Sensitivity: 90dB
Butyl Rubber Surround: Yes
I assume the speakers are 4 ohm each but both the website and the manual do not specify what they are.
Sony Xplod XM-444W 4-Channel Amplifier
-------------------------------------------------------------
Features
-------------------------------------
-Channel Configuration 4 / 3 / 2
-Frequency Response 5Hz-80kHz
-12dB Built in Crossover
-2 x 444 Watts Max @ 2 OHM, 2 x 222 Watts Max @ 4 OHM
-2 x 160 Watts RMS @ 2 OHM, 2 x 80 Watts RMS @ 4 OHM
-4 x 160 Watts Max @ 2 OHM, 4 x 80 Watts Max @ 4 OHM
-4 x 40 Watts RMS @ 2 OHM, 4 x 35 Watts RMS @ 4 OHM
-High Pass Filter/Low Pass Filter (80Hz)
-High Level Speaker Input
-Dual Mode Capability
-Full Protection Circuit
-MOSFET Power Supply
-Gold Plated Terminals
ProBend Competition Bandpass Box by R/T
-------------------------------------------------------------
Specifications
-------------------------------------
for two 10" subwoofers
width: 28-1/4"
height: 13-5/16"
bottom depth: 16-1/2"
top depth: 12-7/8"
port holes: 2 per sub (total of 4)
port diameter: 2-1/2"
port length: 4-3/4"
7/8" MDF
So how should I wire the amp to the subwoofers?... there is a speaker output thing called BTL on the amp but I am not sure what it does or if I should use it for these subwoofers and if I should wire in series or parallel. Otherwise I was just planning on wiring each subwoofer to a channel (total of two channels). Also, there are front and rear RCA inputs as well as a BTL input setup... which one should I use for the subwoofers?
Thanks if you can help
~Soul Karver
Replies (7)
swez on 07/30/2004 18:49:34
SK,
These are 4 ohm subs. (Re =3.6 ohms) If you want to only use this 4 channel amp, best power wise to bridge down the rear 2 channels and run 2 subs in parallel per bridged channel. The way the specs read, that's about 80 watts RMS per sub. These subs are rated at 100 watts RMS.
This amp puzzles me... it says it can do 160 watts at a 2 ohm load in bridged mode? That is not the norm at all. Double check that spec as I think there is an error here. I believe the 80 watts RMS @ 4 ohm bridged... but not 2 ohm stable when bridged. It will fry at 2 ohms or go into protect a lot! I think the specs on this amp are not correct.
What can I say... this amp is not well suited to drive a pair of 4 ohm subs with any real power behind them. Would be well advised to use a Class D MONO amp that is rated between 200-300 RMS @ 2 ohms for this pairing of subs.
The BTL function??? Not sure what that is... Bless the Lord?
Swez
soul_karver on 07/31/2004 01:57:02
I looked BTL up and I guess it stands for Bridge-Tied-Load. Still don't know exactly what it does. How exactly do I bridge down the rear 2 channels and run them in parallel per bridged channel? (I have never bridged subwoofers before :S)
Also, what about the BTL input?
Thanks! ~Soul Karver
swez on 07/31/2004 08:00:40
Not very familiar with BTL circuit design and it may be key to what you are trying to do here. I would suggest getting a copy of the install/operations manuals from Sony before trying anything mentioned prior.
It won't be easy as the Sony website is very complex and difficult to navigate for car audio gear. Good luck as Sony is not always quick in response to older product models.
http://www.xplodsony.com/info/contact/
==================================================
The Sony XM-4060GTX is the closest model in current catalog to what you may have now. Here are the specs on that model:
http://www.xplodsony.com/products/?CATEGORY=Amp/EQ&MD=XM-4060GTX
This model says 150 watts bridged rear channels... into a 4 ohm load.
===================================================
There is a product finder box on this page. I used your ref p/n and it came back with no matches. Get the right model number and you may get the proper specs etc., for that amp.
Swez
soul_karver on 07/31/2004 15:46:00
Alright I got the system hooked up but there are 2 problems. First of all, the subwoofers aren't as loud as they should be... I heard the system in another car (plus an equalizer) and it was much louder. Second of all, when the subwoofers are playing there is a REALLY loud rattling sound comming from the 2 sony 6x9" speakers (3-way, 100w rms) in the back of the car. I disconnected the 2 6x9" speakers to see if the rattling would stop and it did not stop... does anyone know a way I can stop the rattling?
Thanks! ~Soul Karver
uochronos on 07/31/2004 15:55:26
ok first about the system being louder in another car, every system well sound differnt in a differnt car each car has its own freq. of cabin gain that can make a system way louder in certain cars and quiter in others. plus an equalizer can really boost those frequencies so that could be why it was louder.
as for the rattlingi'm assuming these 6x9's are on a rear deck in the car if so then this is not uncomon for it to rattle especial with subs close to it. i had this same problem bad in my '84 t-bird. i simply used some bolts and glue to make the rear deck more stabhle.... be carefull if you do this it is easy to damage the deck. also you dont want glue fumes around your speakers so those well have to be removed temporarily. so the glue can set over night then air the car out well.
soul_karver on 07/31/2004 17:03:24
ok i can try an equalizer
i swear the rattling sound is comming from the 6x9" speakers though not the rear deck. actually when I unplugged the 6x9" speakers the woofer cone STILL vibrated and rattling sound was the same loudness! So how can i stop them from vibrating? will installing a baffle fix the problem?
swez on 07/31/2004 17:08:18
This rattle noise, is it mechanical like loose grill covers, loose speakers or more like cone noises? The cures are different for each noise.
Yes, most likely need a set of rear baffles on the back side of the rear deck speakers here. I had the same problem on one install, bought some plastic baffles, added some stuffing and installed same over rear baskets. The rattles were gone, once the baffles were installed.
Swez
Swez
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