Ok,
I am getting a 2000 or a 2001 Honda Accord within the next week. I would like to put some subwoofers to get some bump in it, but I dont want to tak up the whole trunk while doing it. I'm a golfer, so I want room for my golf clubs in the trunk also. I looked at some Sub Tubes, but I read reviews and people said that they couldn't hear the bass outside the car, and that's not what I'm looking for. I'm looking for something that will bump, but doesnt take up the whole trunk while doing so. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Replies (12)
TigerFan20 on 07/30/2004 13:00:59
Also, I don't know much about car audio, what else would I have to get to make the subs work in a stock stereo system?
P0werLifter on 07/30/2004 13:53:10
How much room are you willing to give up?
A single 10" or 12" sub woofer will be good for this application in my opinion and will give you some good bumb in the trunk. Dual 10s or 12s might take up more space than you wish to give up.
Whats your budget for the subwoofers, amplifiers, wiring etc?
Have you considered replacing your stock Head Unit for an Aftermarket Unit?
After we get some more information from you we can really get a better idea of what your looking for and can help you along your way.
-Jason
TigerFan20 on 07/30/2004 15:43:36
Overall, I don't want to spend more than say $400-500. I would like to replace the head unit, but I need to get some more money first :) I'm not willing to give up a whole lot of space, mainly because I want to be able to fit a golf bag in the back. I agree with you on the dual subs, they would take up too much room. Any suggestions on brands, etc?
swez on 07/30/2004 20:01:51
There are several options here and since space is a concern (I'm with you...gotta have "the sticks" in the trunk) so a single 10 or 12" sub is plenty.
Power wise, consider about 300-400 watts RMS, Class D amp for the sub. Use a sealed enclosure as they are smaller than ported.
Sub brands:
1. Kicker CompVR CVR12-4 $150.00 is high... some shopping can get it closer to $90.00 of e-bay
http://www.cardomain.com/item/KIC03CVR124
===================================================
2. Audiobahn AWC12T $120.00
http://www.cardomain.com/item/ABNAWC12T
===================================================
3. Infinity Kappa 120.3DVC $130.00
http://www.cardomain.com/item/INFKAPPA1203DVC
===================================================
4. Phoenix Gold Octane-R 12d $100.00
http://www.cardomain.com/item/PHOR12D
===================================================
5. Power Acoustik FUBR-12 $100.00
http://www.cardomain.com/item/POWFUBR12
===================================================
Some of these subs can handle more power, but if you run a large power amp in this small car, it may overload your electrical system. Do you happen to know what size ALT this car has in it? I would guess about 80A. So to be on the safe end, stick with an amp that does not draw much over 40A of current or you may wind up spending more money on electrical upgrades. (HO ALT and bigger CCA rated BAT)
===================================================
Amplifiers:
1. JBL BP 300.1 ~$150.00 off ebay
===================================================
2. HiFonics Warrior Merlin $155.00
http://www.cardomain.com/item/HIFMERLIN
===================================================
3.US Acoustics USB600D $190.00
http://www.cardomain.com/item/USAUSB600D
===================================================
4. Lightning Audio Bolt B2.350.1 $180.00
http://www.cardomain.com/item/LITB23501
===================================================
OK, that's a quick list and you can review the ratings and specs on each item via web link provided. Now, under 300 RMS, you may not get a lot of thump outside the vehicle. (but plenty inside) Newer cars use more sound deadening material and the seals are tight enough to keep the bass INSIDE the car. This is a good thing too. Prevents noise tickets and theives cannot track you down and jack your gear.
Comments?
Swez
TigerFan20 on 07/30/2004 20:15:14
Thanks a lot man, I'll look over those links, and I'll let you guys know what I decide to do. I'm not sure what size ALT it will have in it, but I'll know within a week. Thanks again, you've been a lot of help.
TigerFan20 on 07/30/2004 20:18:10
Just to make sure, all I need to go with the subs is an amp, right?
TigerFan20 on 07/30/2004 20:18:25
And could I take it all to Bestbuy and get it installed?
TigerFan20 on 07/30/2004 20:27:41
Also, can you give me a link to some good sealed enclosures?
TigerFan20 on 07/30/2004 22:24:52
Thanks.
P0werLifter on 07/31/2004 03:58:43
Do you know if your Stock HU has RCA ports on the back to connect to your amplifier? You might need to check with the manufacturer to make sure.
If you go to a stereo shop to have it all installed ,all you'll need to buy is the amplifier and the sub woofer. They can do all the wiring for you and they can sell you some RCA cables too. Just look around and compare prices. Best Buy might do it but im not sure, might want to try a smaller shop around town.
any other input/comments?
uochronos on 07/31/2004 04:29:20
ok alot of questions here
first if your keeping the stock HU then chances are it does not have rca's most do not if this is the case it well take around 30$ worth of hardware to install the amp unless the amp you get has high level inputs.
second best buy can do this install however they charge alot and they do not have the most experienced staff. alot of smaller audio shops that only do car audio are going to have alot more experience and better prices if you call around.
and as far as prebuilt enclosures subzero makes good boxes and also most shops well build you a box. which may be a better option since the box has to match what sub you get. i would say the box is around 70% of getting a sub to sound good. a great sub in a badl;y built box well sound worse then a middle level sub in a great built box. so keep that in mind thats not an area you want to skimp on.
if your willing to try and install it yourself a sub amp install is not the most difficult and we could walk you threw it. this would save you alot of money since the labor is expensive at shops. usualy in my experiences this would cost around 200$ to install at least in my area.
swez on 07/31/2004 07:24:31
The hardest part of the install is to feed a power line from the BAT, through the firewall and back to the amp location. This can easily be done by a shop for cheap and you can wire the rest with our help and save some cash.
The other wires to deal with are input signal wiring from the factory HU to the amp and a remote turn on line. Some amps have high signal inputs that allow the installer to tap off the rear deck speakers to feed the amp audio signals. Some amps even have a built in turn on detector when they get a signal from the speakers.
The other route is to run a pair of RCA lines from the HU, back to the amp with a REMote tap off the ACC/IGN circuit. The amp turns on when the key is in RUN or ACC modes. This is a better method (less noise) but a Line out Converter is needed to convert Speaker level voltages to line out voltages. A bit more work, but woth the extra efforts as when you upgrade to a better aftermarket HU, the sub signal lines are already there.
About enslosures, wait until you get the car, then measure the space you have inside the trunk. Height is the critical measurment as it will determine what size sub you can use. If you have about 14-15" here, a 12" sub will fit. If less than that, a 10" sub will work very well too. Overall, most 12" subs will do fine in ~1.0-1.2cf enclosure. A 10" sub needs ~0.75-1.0 cf. These are internal volumn requirements of the enclosure. The external dimensions would be ~25% larger.
10" Sub Zone enclosure: $50.00
http://www.thezeb.com/detail.aspx?ID=5349
12" Sub Zone enclosure: $50.00
http://www.thezeb.com/detail.aspx?ID=5357
Swez
I am getting a 2000 or a 2001 Honda Accord within the next week. I would like to put some subwoofers to get some bump in it, but I dont want to tak up the whole trunk while doing it. I'm a golfer, so I want room for my golf clubs in the trunk also. I looked at some Sub Tubes, but I read reviews and people said that they couldn't hear the bass outside the car, and that's not what I'm looking for. I'm looking for something that will bump, but doesnt take up the whole trunk while doing so. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Replies (12)
TigerFan20 on 07/30/2004 13:00:59
Also, I don't know much about car audio, what else would I have to get to make the subs work in a stock stereo system?
P0werLifter on 07/30/2004 13:53:10
How much room are you willing to give up?
A single 10" or 12" sub woofer will be good for this application in my opinion and will give you some good bumb in the trunk. Dual 10s or 12s might take up more space than you wish to give up.
Whats your budget for the subwoofers, amplifiers, wiring etc?
Have you considered replacing your stock Head Unit for an Aftermarket Unit?
After we get some more information from you we can really get a better idea of what your looking for and can help you along your way.
-Jason
TigerFan20 on 07/30/2004 15:43:36
Overall, I don't want to spend more than say $400-500. I would like to replace the head unit, but I need to get some more money first :) I'm not willing to give up a whole lot of space, mainly because I want to be able to fit a golf bag in the back. I agree with you on the dual subs, they would take up too much room. Any suggestions on brands, etc?
swez on 07/30/2004 20:01:51
There are several options here and since space is a concern (I'm with you...gotta have "the sticks" in the trunk) so a single 10 or 12" sub is plenty.
Power wise, consider about 300-400 watts RMS, Class D amp for the sub. Use a sealed enclosure as they are smaller than ported.
Sub brands:
1. Kicker CompVR CVR12-4 $150.00 is high... some shopping can get it closer to $90.00 of e-bay
http://www.cardomain.com/item/KIC03CVR124
===================================================
2. Audiobahn AWC12T $120.00
http://www.cardomain.com/item/ABNAWC12T
===================================================
3. Infinity Kappa 120.3DVC $130.00
http://www.cardomain.com/item/INFKAPPA1203DVC
===================================================
4. Phoenix Gold Octane-R 12d $100.00
http://www.cardomain.com/item/PHOR12D
===================================================
5. Power Acoustik FUBR-12 $100.00
http://www.cardomain.com/item/POWFUBR12
===================================================
Some of these subs can handle more power, but if you run a large power amp in this small car, it may overload your electrical system. Do you happen to know what size ALT this car has in it? I would guess about 80A. So to be on the safe end, stick with an amp that does not draw much over 40A of current or you may wind up spending more money on electrical upgrades. (HO ALT and bigger CCA rated BAT)
===================================================
Amplifiers:
1. JBL BP 300.1 ~$150.00 off ebay
===================================================
2. HiFonics Warrior Merlin $155.00
http://www.cardomain.com/item/HIFMERLIN
===================================================
3.US Acoustics USB600D $190.00
http://www.cardomain.com/item/USAUSB600D
===================================================
4. Lightning Audio Bolt B2.350.1 $180.00
http://www.cardomain.com/item/LITB23501
===================================================
OK, that's a quick list and you can review the ratings and specs on each item via web link provided. Now, under 300 RMS, you may not get a lot of thump outside the vehicle. (but plenty inside) Newer cars use more sound deadening material and the seals are tight enough to keep the bass INSIDE the car. This is a good thing too. Prevents noise tickets and theives cannot track you down and jack your gear.
Comments?
Swez
TigerFan20 on 07/30/2004 20:15:14
Thanks a lot man, I'll look over those links, and I'll let you guys know what I decide to do. I'm not sure what size ALT it will have in it, but I'll know within a week. Thanks again, you've been a lot of help.
TigerFan20 on 07/30/2004 20:18:10
Just to make sure, all I need to go with the subs is an amp, right?
TigerFan20 on 07/30/2004 20:18:25
And could I take it all to Bestbuy and get it installed?
TigerFan20 on 07/30/2004 20:27:41
Also, can you give me a link to some good sealed enclosures?
TigerFan20 on 07/30/2004 22:24:52
Thanks.
P0werLifter on 07/31/2004 03:58:43
Do you know if your Stock HU has RCA ports on the back to connect to your amplifier? You might need to check with the manufacturer to make sure.
If you go to a stereo shop to have it all installed ,all you'll need to buy is the amplifier and the sub woofer. They can do all the wiring for you and they can sell you some RCA cables too. Just look around and compare prices. Best Buy might do it but im not sure, might want to try a smaller shop around town.
any other input/comments?
uochronos on 07/31/2004 04:29:20
ok alot of questions here
first if your keeping the stock HU then chances are it does not have rca's most do not if this is the case it well take around 30$ worth of hardware to install the amp unless the amp you get has high level inputs.
second best buy can do this install however they charge alot and they do not have the most experienced staff. alot of smaller audio shops that only do car audio are going to have alot more experience and better prices if you call around.
and as far as prebuilt enclosures subzero makes good boxes and also most shops well build you a box. which may be a better option since the box has to match what sub you get. i would say the box is around 70% of getting a sub to sound good. a great sub in a badl;y built box well sound worse then a middle level sub in a great built box. so keep that in mind thats not an area you want to skimp on.
if your willing to try and install it yourself a sub amp install is not the most difficult and we could walk you threw it. this would save you alot of money since the labor is expensive at shops. usualy in my experiences this would cost around 200$ to install at least in my area.
swez on 07/31/2004 07:24:31
The hardest part of the install is to feed a power line from the BAT, through the firewall and back to the amp location. This can easily be done by a shop for cheap and you can wire the rest with our help and save some cash.
The other wires to deal with are input signal wiring from the factory HU to the amp and a remote turn on line. Some amps have high signal inputs that allow the installer to tap off the rear deck speakers to feed the amp audio signals. Some amps even have a built in turn on detector when they get a signal from the speakers.
The other route is to run a pair of RCA lines from the HU, back to the amp with a REMote tap off the ACC/IGN circuit. The amp turns on when the key is in RUN or ACC modes. This is a better method (less noise) but a Line out Converter is needed to convert Speaker level voltages to line out voltages. A bit more work, but woth the extra efforts as when you upgrade to a better aftermarket HU, the sub signal lines are already there.
About enslosures, wait until you get the car, then measure the space you have inside the trunk. Height is the critical measurment as it will determine what size sub you can use. If you have about 14-15" here, a 12" sub will fit. If less than that, a 10" sub will work very well too. Overall, most 12" subs will do fine in ~1.0-1.2cf enclosure. A 10" sub needs ~0.75-1.0 cf. These are internal volumn requirements of the enclosure. The external dimensions would be ~25% larger.
10" Sub Zone enclosure: $50.00
http://www.thezeb.com/detail.aspx?ID=5349
12" Sub Zone enclosure: $50.00
http://www.thezeb.com/detail.aspx?ID=5357
Swez
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