Sub Confusion!

by ryan
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Alright by the end of summer im goin to upgrade my system. I want 2 12" subs. I was gonna go with the L7 but i was lookin at sum good deals on ebay for jl's. Now I either want the Kicker L7 or the Jl Audio W7 or W6v2.
KICKER L7 W7 W6v2
Max watt- 1500 1500? 800?
RMS watt-700 750 400
Db-86.9 N/A 85.9
Freq.- 20-100 N/A N/A
Either - 2or 4 ohm N/A 4ohm
V-Max- 158.4 348 198

I cant find to much info. on the W7 on Jl's site. But I would like 2 but 2 of one of these brands in a slot port box. For the kicker i would use JBL BP1200.1 amp, could i use that on the W6v2 also. And if I get the W7 ( only if i find a great deal on ebay lol) should i find a more powerful amp. Which one should i decide to go with. I kno the W7 will blow them away GRIN but mostly i want to kno if i should go wtih the L7 or W6v2. THINK Tell me if u need more info.


Replies (7)
ryan on 05/31/2003 00:15:13
Sorry looks like when i posted it made the specs get smudged together.

Swez on 05/31/2003 10:58:38
Have you seen the Adire Brahma series yet? These come in 10, 12 & 15" versions and are real brute SQ/SPL subs. They are rated at 1600 watt RMS, DVC 1/2/4 ohm configureation. A single 12 or 15 in the proper enclosure will blow most other single and dual cone systems right out of the max bass game as these things really move air!!!! The tech service here is well above average as well.

Read a bit: http://www.adireaudio.com/mobile_audio/drivers/brahma_series.htm

JL makes a very good grouping of SQ/SPL subs as well, but they are pretty pricey and support for technical is very limited. You are just one of the crowd of "audio snobs" that can afford JL products. Not opinion, a fact ! A pair of W7's will handle a 1200.1 fine. A pair of W6v's will take it , but are pressing them pretty hard as they are rated @ 400 watts continous/sub, but in a small sealed box, they might stand up to the 1200.1 In a larger ported box, they may reach X-max well below rated power. Depends on the box size and port tuning used.

Kicker makes some very good SPL subs. Their featured subs, require large enclosures, to get the SPL you crave. Not a bad sub.... if you have the space (~5.0 - 10.0 cf range, external) Need a pair of these to handle a 1200.1, as these are rated at 750 RMS/sub. Not a cheap venture here either.

Swez

PS What's your goal here? High SPL, SPL Competition, blend of SQ/SPL, price..... say more




xplicitblitzboi on 05/31/2003 13:05:50
yes, it all depends on what you are going for, as the L7s will give you the SPL desired but are not too hot for SQ. but anyways, i've always been a big fan of the brahma, its a great sub, and damn theyre loud. that would be one of the best options, as the 1200.1 would be a good match for it. I just wish i had some more money right now to be able to afford this type of stuff.

good luck
Blitz

ryan on 05/31/2003 22:45:46
Im looking for a blend of SQ and SPL. My price range is from about $900 - 1000. If i go with 2 12" W7 or W6v2 or 1 12" Adire Brahma would i need to upgrade my alt. I have a 97 cavalier. I cant read the number of my alt. so im not sure what its rated. If i go with the Brahma should i find a more powerful amp to power it. Should i get 2 or 4 guage wire.

ryan on 05/31/2003 23:24:06
If I get 2 12" w7 with that JBL ampwill it be better then 1 12" brahma with the JBL amp?


xplicitblitzboi on 06/1/2003 03:04:16
good luck tryin to fit the w7 box in the trunk of the cavalier, lol, i'd go with the w7s if i could, just because i love them. thats a close competition though, i think i'd have to hear the w7s and the brahma in my car first to be able to decide

Swez on 06/1/2003 10:16:35
Really, your best choices are the JL or the Brahma here.

If you run them with a JBL 1200.1, you may get by on a stock ALT... if it is higher than 120A output. This amp pulls 114A at full power, but the duty cycle (time on VS off) is pretty short due to class D design. But if you have a few power hogging toys already, some light dimming at night, at low RPM are likely with an underpowered electrical system. This amp takes #4 wire.

I would recommend #2 gage here... this allows you to add an extra amp later for the Mids/highs if you wish. Just add a D-block with #2 inputs and #4 & #8 outputs... Not too expensive either.

One thing good about GM ALTs... they make several output versions that will fit in the same location, but more power. A quick call to a good autoparts store will give you the low down on that. Also, rebuilts are a lot cheaper than new of from a dealership. They generally come with lifetime warrantee, so if it poops out, get a new one.

I would also recommend upgrading your BAT to a high CCA rated version. Stock BATs are generally ~600 CCA. In this case, an 850 CCA BAT or higher would help a lot as a reserve current supply. Also, upgradng the stock power wires between ALT/BAT and BAT/GND to at least #4, if not #2 gage wire will help as well.

Finally, a very good source for wiring, fuse systems, termination hardware and D-blocks would be: www.knukonceptz.com
Very high quality products at very reasonable prices too.

Swez

PS Some guy cut costs on #2 gage wire by using welding cable. Not pretty, but inexpensive, very flexible and can get this at most Home Depot/Lowes etc.



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