Alright, i got 2 ,12" audiobahn ALUM12Q 1000 watt rms subs they are dual 6 ohms each also, one website recommended a 1 ohm stable mono amp, but im still not sure what kind of amp is going to push these to their fullest potential so if anyone can help me out id appreciate it.
stevo
Replies (8)
swez on 07/13/2004 20:27:45
Yep, you will need a 1 ohm stable amp here... maybe 2 if you really want all you can get from them Since these are 3+3 DVC's, all in parallel nets 1.5 ohm loading to the amp. A pair of 1000-1200 watt (RMS) amps per sub, will give you what you need to power them to full potential. Good SQL subs here too!
The lowest priced amps in this range are the venerable JBL BP-1200.1 monovalves. They are very stable at 1 ohm, very beefy design and deliver a bit more than rated. At under $230.00/ea., this is not a bad choice for almost 2500 watts RMS of sub power. Wiring 1 sub per amp nets ~ 850 - 900 RMS at 3 ohms. Good nuff!
One problem here mate... each amp pulls >100 amperes of current at full power. That stock electrical system in your Taurus will have to be modified in a big way to run this gear. Stock ALT is probably a tad over 100A and your BAT is maybe 650 CCA rated. The car needs about 60A. to run properly. That leaves you pretty short (-140A) on power for a large amp system w/o major electrical upgrades. Are you prepared to make that leap financially? Talking about close to $500.00 just to upgrade the electricals here. (a 250-300A ALT and dual batteries... 900 CCA Optima or similar plus wiring upgrades)
Yes, you can go to other amps that net out ~2000 RMS into a 1.5 ohm load. But these amps have the same issues... huge current draw and electricals are lacking here too. Best to look for Class D or Class T amps as these are much more efficient with power draw VS audio output.
This Bahn amp is a possible option: (E-bay will be your best prices)
Audiobahn A2300HCT-OB
http://www.thezeb.com/detail.aspx?ID=9416 ($470.00)
This is a HIGH CURRENT (Class A/B) 2 channel amp. It will draw well over 200A at full power. May have to contact Audiobahn Tech Support for recommendations and power requirements on this amp.
tech@audiobahninc.com
Swez
Bigeazy4387 on 07/14/2004 02:19:19
manne swez i bet he wanted to hear that he just spent 400 on his subs now your sayin just to play them he will need another 500 plus the price of his amp lol but its all right manne i would just get my amp 4ga wires a cap and a 100a fuse now you might not get all the power the jbl monovalve is capable of but u will get alot
now all this being said swez's way to go is best if your gonna get 2 amps or if u have the budget it would be best for 1 but doing what i said u can have your system stable,bumpin,and protected for 1 jbl monovalve amp at a reasonable price
and swez if im wrong plz correct me and im sry in advance if i am
snbaseball277 on 07/14/2004 03:06:39
Thanks a lot swez, your advice helped me, i decided to go with what you said about specs and chose a Power Acoustik "Class D" Digital Amplifier 2400 Watts Max and 1 OHM RMS 1800 Watts mono amp. If you think this wont work then please let me know so i dont waste $$ im paying about 300$ for it. its stable @1ohm so im thinkin its going to sound nice, also what kind of enclosure do you think will sound the best in the trunk of my taurus. thnx
Bigeazy4387 on 07/14/2004 03:19:50
those subs are very versitile so they work well in a variety of encolsures it all depends on what u want and what kinda music you prefer.and good choice i am also running a power acoustik amp and am very pleased as they are very underrated but be careful about which one u buy because p,a makes sum very good equipment and some very cheap equipment but that amp is one of their good ones so good luck
swez on 07/14/2004 09:03:07
PA does make a few interesting products and yes, that amp should get your Bahn hopping too.
I mentioned the power issues as you can either wing it as is and hope for the best... or start planning for some serious electrical upgrades in the future. A CAP on this size amp may haelp smooth out the power surge draws from big (but short) bass hits. But if you like music that has long, drawn out bass tones, a 15 Farad cap will not even cut that.
Which PA model are you looking at? Mentioned 2400 watts peak, 1 ohm stable Class D and that's about 1200 RMS @ 1 ohm... maybe a tad less.
Why not get a JBL BP1200.1 instead? Is cheaper... about 2500 watts peak, 1200 + RMS @ 1 ohm and can be had a bit cheaper than the PA you mentioned. I think you can get them off e-bay for under $300.00 new.
Swez
snbaseball277 on 07/14/2004 14:47:44
I was looking into a 2.4 Farad PA cap, also I listen to mainly rap music such as 36 mafia and twista, who tend to have long bass rhythms. The PA amp (model A2400DB) im going to get is actually right around the same price range as the JBL so i figure an extra 10 bucks isnt going to kill me. Im ordering a 4 gauge PA amp installation kit. also my Stock ALT is 65A i believe, so will that be ok to run the system off of? also, Any ideas on my cap size? i read that you should have 1 farad per 1000 watts, so i figured that if i got a 2400 watt amp then 2.4 would match perfectly. I appreciate all of your help.
,stevo
Bigeazy4387 on 07/14/2004 17:47:21
that cap sounds good but what size fuse comes with that amp kit
ps. that amp wont hit 2400watts pa has very nonchalant ways of measuring peak power but it will drive those bahns very nice i have a pa lt1440/2 class a/b amp that pulls pretty close to the ampres yours will pull and i run a 1.5fared cap with large wire and the only problem i have is the lights dim a little at night so you might have to keep it down at night so what i would do is try it out before i spent 500+ dollars on electrical system upgrades and if it doesnt dim the lights but a little you might consider a battery upgrade to fix BUT BEFORE YOU TRY IT OUT YOU MUST GET THE RIGHT FUSE TO PROTECT EVERYTHING
pss swez that amp rms is about 1800 at 14.4 volts so i say it will probaly push more around 1500
swez on 07/14/2004 18:47:30
Hey, give it try as mentioned by Sir Easy. If you get light dimming badly at night... dial back on the bass or you may find yourself looking for a jump. If you have a voltage gage... keep an eye on it. If the gage drops below 10.5 volts, serious discharing going on and most cars will shut down at ~10.0 volts. (Dead Battery) Carry a set of jumper cables a while, just in case this happens. (even better... the jumper kits with a battery pack and cables if you have one)
The 65A stock ALT is gonna love the new toy coming soon. As for the fusing option, try a fuse holder that will accept 80A AGU type fuses. The 80 will help protect your electrical systems from serious overloads and limit power to the amp. If your system can handle 80 amperes w/o blowing... a good thing. If it keeps blowing 80's, dial back on the bass or risk major electrical issues like a fried ALT or dying battery.
When you figure out how well the electricals handle that load, can than move to an ANL type 100 or 150A system. But when pulling this much power, the present ALT will really be working hard to keep up.
FYI: Most cars need about 40-50 amperes of current (min.) to operate at 13.5 volts. If voltage drops to under 12.0, now the ALT cannot keep up and are running off battery reserves. Won't be long that the BAT will become depleated, voltage drops lower and now the car stops running.
Alrighty than... see how the car reacts to the new toy and keep us posted.
Swez
PS Use #2 gage power feed cable and ground for this amp. You'll need it if you add an interior amp later.
stevo
Replies (8)
swez on 07/13/2004 20:27:45
Yep, you will need a 1 ohm stable amp here... maybe 2 if you really want all you can get from them Since these are 3+3 DVC's, all in parallel nets 1.5 ohm loading to the amp. A pair of 1000-1200 watt (RMS) amps per sub, will give you what you need to power them to full potential. Good SQL subs here too!
The lowest priced amps in this range are the venerable JBL BP-1200.1 monovalves. They are very stable at 1 ohm, very beefy design and deliver a bit more than rated. At under $230.00/ea., this is not a bad choice for almost 2500 watts RMS of sub power. Wiring 1 sub per amp nets ~ 850 - 900 RMS at 3 ohms. Good nuff!
One problem here mate... each amp pulls >100 amperes of current at full power. That stock electrical system in your Taurus will have to be modified in a big way to run this gear. Stock ALT is probably a tad over 100A and your BAT is maybe 650 CCA rated. The car needs about 60A. to run properly. That leaves you pretty short (-140A) on power for a large amp system w/o major electrical upgrades. Are you prepared to make that leap financially? Talking about close to $500.00 just to upgrade the electricals here. (a 250-300A ALT and dual batteries... 900 CCA Optima or similar plus wiring upgrades)
Yes, you can go to other amps that net out ~2000 RMS into a 1.5 ohm load. But these amps have the same issues... huge current draw and electricals are lacking here too. Best to look for Class D or Class T amps as these are much more efficient with power draw VS audio output.
This Bahn amp is a possible option: (E-bay will be your best prices)
Audiobahn A2300HCT-OB
http://www.thezeb.com/detail.aspx?ID=9416 ($470.00)
This is a HIGH CURRENT (Class A/B) 2 channel amp. It will draw well over 200A at full power. May have to contact Audiobahn Tech Support for recommendations and power requirements on this amp.
tech@audiobahninc.com
Swez
Bigeazy4387 on 07/14/2004 02:19:19
manne swez i bet he wanted to hear that he just spent 400 on his subs now your sayin just to play them he will need another 500 plus the price of his amp lol but its all right manne i would just get my amp 4ga wires a cap and a 100a fuse now you might not get all the power the jbl monovalve is capable of but u will get alot
now all this being said swez's way to go is best if your gonna get 2 amps or if u have the budget it would be best for 1 but doing what i said u can have your system stable,bumpin,and protected for 1 jbl monovalve amp at a reasonable price
and swez if im wrong plz correct me and im sry in advance if i am
snbaseball277 on 07/14/2004 03:06:39
Thanks a lot swez, your advice helped me, i decided to go with what you said about specs and chose a Power Acoustik "Class D" Digital Amplifier 2400 Watts Max and 1 OHM RMS 1800 Watts mono amp. If you think this wont work then please let me know so i dont waste $$ im paying about 300$ for it. its stable @1ohm so im thinkin its going to sound nice, also what kind of enclosure do you think will sound the best in the trunk of my taurus. thnx
Bigeazy4387 on 07/14/2004 03:19:50
those subs are very versitile so they work well in a variety of encolsures it all depends on what u want and what kinda music you prefer.and good choice i am also running a power acoustik amp and am very pleased as they are very underrated but be careful about which one u buy because p,a makes sum very good equipment and some very cheap equipment but that amp is one of their good ones so good luck
swez on 07/14/2004 09:03:07
PA does make a few interesting products and yes, that amp should get your Bahn hopping too.
I mentioned the power issues as you can either wing it as is and hope for the best... or start planning for some serious electrical upgrades in the future. A CAP on this size amp may haelp smooth out the power surge draws from big (but short) bass hits. But if you like music that has long, drawn out bass tones, a 15 Farad cap will not even cut that.
Which PA model are you looking at? Mentioned 2400 watts peak, 1 ohm stable Class D and that's about 1200 RMS @ 1 ohm... maybe a tad less.
Why not get a JBL BP1200.1 instead? Is cheaper... about 2500 watts peak, 1200 + RMS @ 1 ohm and can be had a bit cheaper than the PA you mentioned. I think you can get them off e-bay for under $300.00 new.
Swez
snbaseball277 on 07/14/2004 14:47:44
I was looking into a 2.4 Farad PA cap, also I listen to mainly rap music such as 36 mafia and twista, who tend to have long bass rhythms. The PA amp (model A2400DB) im going to get is actually right around the same price range as the JBL so i figure an extra 10 bucks isnt going to kill me. Im ordering a 4 gauge PA amp installation kit. also my Stock ALT is 65A i believe, so will that be ok to run the system off of? also, Any ideas on my cap size? i read that you should have 1 farad per 1000 watts, so i figured that if i got a 2400 watt amp then 2.4 would match perfectly. I appreciate all of your help.
,stevo
Bigeazy4387 on 07/14/2004 17:47:21
that cap sounds good but what size fuse comes with that amp kit
ps. that amp wont hit 2400watts pa has very nonchalant ways of measuring peak power but it will drive those bahns very nice i have a pa lt1440/2 class a/b amp that pulls pretty close to the ampres yours will pull and i run a 1.5fared cap with large wire and the only problem i have is the lights dim a little at night so you might have to keep it down at night so what i would do is try it out before i spent 500+ dollars on electrical system upgrades and if it doesnt dim the lights but a little you might consider a battery upgrade to fix BUT BEFORE YOU TRY IT OUT YOU MUST GET THE RIGHT FUSE TO PROTECT EVERYTHING
pss swez that amp rms is about 1800 at 14.4 volts so i say it will probaly push more around 1500
swez on 07/14/2004 18:47:30
Hey, give it try as mentioned by Sir Easy. If you get light dimming badly at night... dial back on the bass or you may find yourself looking for a jump. If you have a voltage gage... keep an eye on it. If the gage drops below 10.5 volts, serious discharing going on and most cars will shut down at ~10.0 volts. (Dead Battery) Carry a set of jumper cables a while, just in case this happens. (even better... the jumper kits with a battery pack and cables if you have one)
The 65A stock ALT is gonna love the new toy coming soon. As for the fusing option, try a fuse holder that will accept 80A AGU type fuses. The 80 will help protect your electrical systems from serious overloads and limit power to the amp. If your system can handle 80 amperes w/o blowing... a good thing. If it keeps blowing 80's, dial back on the bass or risk major electrical issues like a fried ALT or dying battery.
When you figure out how well the electricals handle that load, can than move to an ANL type 100 or 150A system. But when pulling this much power, the present ALT will really be working hard to keep up.
FYI: Most cars need about 40-50 amperes of current (min.) to operate at 13.5 volts. If voltage drops to under 12.0, now the ALT cannot keep up and are running off battery reserves. Won't be long that the BAT will become depleated, voltage drops lower and now the car stops running.
Alrighty than... see how the car reacts to the new toy and keep us posted.
Swez
PS Use #2 gage power feed cable and ground for this amp. You'll need it if you add an interior amp later.
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