Hey Guys,
I am new to the site & thought I would jump right in. I have seen several pieces of good information... and just thought I would ask some opinons of others on here.
GRIN My setup:
Kenwood KDC-V7702 Head Unit
Kenwood KTC-SR903 Sirrus Tuner w/Terk SIR3 Ant.
Kenwood KDC-C719 10 disc CD Changer
Cadence Ultra Drive (Chrome) Z1200-C & Z800-C 2 channel - 2 ohm mono 4 ohm bridged
Cadence (Matcing) QXR7 Crossover
2 awg wire from bat. to trunk
4 awg wire from neg. term. to trunk
Infinity KAPA 1" Dome Tweets in Mirror Pods
Pioneer TS-A1767 3 way 6 3/4" Front Doors
Kenwood KFC-6908 4 way 6x9 in Rear Deck
Currently: 1 12" Power Acoustik MOFO in a custom built ported slit box
THINK Questions:
What size alt. should I run for this set up?
Should I get a Optima Yellow top batt.? Or run it & current stock batt.?
Is a 5.0 farad cap. a good idea and/or useful?
What type of box would you recomend for use?
Should I purchase another 12 & run 2 series wired?
What Sub's would be Good? IDEA(I like the MOFO, but it's old & loose. I was thinking of getting 2 12" Audiobahn ALUMQ's)
Any other suggestions would be a great help as well.
This is the first system that I am not trying to piece togeather with mix match parts & at lowest cost possible. The amps are old.. but I love them & they work ther ass off. Sub needs repalacement & in past was running 2. (Voice Coil on other MOFO 12 got damaged in transit & never sounded right again)
Thanks for any help you can provide.....
Replies (3)
brandonshady on 07/12/2004 06:39:17
I just got done reading Mr. B's Car Audio FAQ. There was a lot of Interseting & Useful information. I can see now, that what many have said is true. The Big Name Brands are not always best... yet in some cases do hold true to their RMS values & some not.
I agree with his theory of $1 per total RMS watt. I have had many people ask what componets & amps I was running. While I feel that Cadence is a overall "good" brand. I feel the dollar amount I paid for the wattage I am getting was well worth it, according to his theory.
Among other topics read...
Speaker placement is key. I am what he reffered to as a 75%/25% listener. Numerous hours of placement & re-installs for speaker placement in my vehical have been key. As you can see, I am running name brands (per say)... but not really high end/top line componets. However, while sitting in any seat of my vehical every word & high note can be heard clearly.
***I made custom moldings for the 6x9's, on the top of the rear deck, so that they were angled slighty up & facing tward front of vehical. Also, kick pannel installs are a must, especially in Stang's. The 3 way's brought very clear & wide range of highs to the faces of my passangers, when placed facing upward from front floor board. While they sounded nice in the doors... it was a whole new ballgame in custom kick pannels. Lastly, I do not think I have mastered the art of box making. While I believe mine sounds good. I often fear the the space is to great & being in a ported enclosure... I over work my subs. I have had boxes built by car audio shops in past, but never really was happy. Maybe just my luck, or they didn't know what they were doing.*****
Sub Choice & Box Idea's would be a big help. Also, what x-over freq. & input levals I should be tuned to, if possible. I try to tune/adjust per my listning pleaures. However, feel it's imposible since I love to listen to all types of music.
Thanks again for any help....
swez on 07/12/2004 09:51:01
Have done well so far... the amps used are of very high quality and should last many years. The weakest link in the whole system is probably the SQ ability of your front mounted 6x9, 3-ways. A pair of SQL Components in their place would make the front stage really shine.
===================================================
Sub comments: The MOFO is a very potent SPL sub. If it is sloppy in bass performance, mostly due to enclosure design and tuning freq of the box used. A subsonic filter is a must for this sub application and you need to know the port tuning freq. Blocking all lows under port tune is a must! The steeper the slope on that filter, the better...
(-24dB/octave) is a good start point. A good LPF crossover point for most subs would be ~80 Hz. Anything much higher than that, the midbass will overpower the low bass and sound a bit muddy or nasally. Your interior speakers should be crossed (HPF) at the same freq., as the subs...
===================================================
The Z800 looks like 500 RMS @ 4 ohms bridged (~50A current draw?)
The Z1200 looks like a 1200 RMS @ 1 ohm (~100A draw) So here, we really have to look closely at a 200A ALT to feed your amps and keep the car from pooping out some night due to a depleated battery or a dead electrical system.
===================================================
Mr. B has some very good thoughts and we shared a lot of common ideas in the past. I knew him well and know his biases. (he was well aware of mine as well) The buck a watt theory was his gage on pricing for a quality amp. He sold many high end products at his web site... High Voltage Car Audio (circa late 90's/2001) We cannot locate him anymore however. He dropped off the face of the earth in April 2001. Have not heard boo on his whereabouts since.
Hope this all helps,
Swez
brandonshady on 07/12/2004 22:03:07
That all sounds great...
I know the box is going to need to be built better. I have decided to go with 2 12" MOFO's. I found a great deal on 2 new ones, for around $120 each.
What are your views on caps.?
Is a battery upgrade a must?
Also, do you think the MOFO or Audiobahn 12" ALUMQ's are better to go with?
Also, the 6x9 4 ways are in my rear deck... not in the front kicks. I have 6 3/4" 3 ways in the kicks with an additional tweeter mounted in mirror pod. Do you think I should upgrade speaker choice to a Componet System?
I am new to the site & thought I would jump right in. I have seen several pieces of good information... and just thought I would ask some opinons of others on here.
GRIN My setup:
Kenwood KDC-V7702 Head Unit
Kenwood KTC-SR903 Sirrus Tuner w/Terk SIR3 Ant.
Kenwood KDC-C719 10 disc CD Changer
Cadence Ultra Drive (Chrome) Z1200-C & Z800-C 2 channel - 2 ohm mono 4 ohm bridged
Cadence (Matcing) QXR7 Crossover
2 awg wire from bat. to trunk
4 awg wire from neg. term. to trunk
Infinity KAPA 1" Dome Tweets in Mirror Pods
Pioneer TS-A1767 3 way 6 3/4" Front Doors
Kenwood KFC-6908 4 way 6x9 in Rear Deck
Currently: 1 12" Power Acoustik MOFO in a custom built ported slit box
THINK Questions:
What size alt. should I run for this set up?
Should I get a Optima Yellow top batt.? Or run it & current stock batt.?
Is a 5.0 farad cap. a good idea and/or useful?
What type of box would you recomend for use?
Should I purchase another 12 & run 2 series wired?
What Sub's would be Good? IDEA(I like the MOFO, but it's old & loose. I was thinking of getting 2 12" Audiobahn ALUMQ's)
Any other suggestions would be a great help as well.
This is the first system that I am not trying to piece togeather with mix match parts & at lowest cost possible. The amps are old.. but I love them & they work ther ass off. Sub needs repalacement & in past was running 2. (Voice Coil on other MOFO 12 got damaged in transit & never sounded right again)
Thanks for any help you can provide.....
Replies (3)
brandonshady on 07/12/2004 06:39:17
I just got done reading Mr. B's Car Audio FAQ. There was a lot of Interseting & Useful information. I can see now, that what many have said is true. The Big Name Brands are not always best... yet in some cases do hold true to their RMS values & some not.
I agree with his theory of $1 per total RMS watt. I have had many people ask what componets & amps I was running. While I feel that Cadence is a overall "good" brand. I feel the dollar amount I paid for the wattage I am getting was well worth it, according to his theory.
Among other topics read...
Speaker placement is key. I am what he reffered to as a 75%/25% listener. Numerous hours of placement & re-installs for speaker placement in my vehical have been key. As you can see, I am running name brands (per say)... but not really high end/top line componets. However, while sitting in any seat of my vehical every word & high note can be heard clearly.
***I made custom moldings for the 6x9's, on the top of the rear deck, so that they were angled slighty up & facing tward front of vehical. Also, kick pannel installs are a must, especially in Stang's. The 3 way's brought very clear & wide range of highs to the faces of my passangers, when placed facing upward from front floor board. While they sounded nice in the doors... it was a whole new ballgame in custom kick pannels. Lastly, I do not think I have mastered the art of box making. While I believe mine sounds good. I often fear the the space is to great & being in a ported enclosure... I over work my subs. I have had boxes built by car audio shops in past, but never really was happy. Maybe just my luck, or they didn't know what they were doing.*****
Sub Choice & Box Idea's would be a big help. Also, what x-over freq. & input levals I should be tuned to, if possible. I try to tune/adjust per my listning pleaures. However, feel it's imposible since I love to listen to all types of music.
Thanks again for any help....
swez on 07/12/2004 09:51:01
Have done well so far... the amps used are of very high quality and should last many years. The weakest link in the whole system is probably the SQ ability of your front mounted 6x9, 3-ways. A pair of SQL Components in their place would make the front stage really shine.
===================================================
Sub comments: The MOFO is a very potent SPL sub. If it is sloppy in bass performance, mostly due to enclosure design and tuning freq of the box used. A subsonic filter is a must for this sub application and you need to know the port tuning freq. Blocking all lows under port tune is a must! The steeper the slope on that filter, the better...
(-24dB/octave) is a good start point. A good LPF crossover point for most subs would be ~80 Hz. Anything much higher than that, the midbass will overpower the low bass and sound a bit muddy or nasally. Your interior speakers should be crossed (HPF) at the same freq., as the subs...
===================================================
The Z800 looks like 500 RMS @ 4 ohms bridged (~50A current draw?)
The Z1200 looks like a 1200 RMS @ 1 ohm (~100A draw) So here, we really have to look closely at a 200A ALT to feed your amps and keep the car from pooping out some night due to a depleated battery or a dead electrical system.
===================================================
Mr. B has some very good thoughts and we shared a lot of common ideas in the past. I knew him well and know his biases. (he was well aware of mine as well) The buck a watt theory was his gage on pricing for a quality amp. He sold many high end products at his web site... High Voltage Car Audio (circa late 90's/2001) We cannot locate him anymore however. He dropped off the face of the earth in April 2001. Have not heard boo on his whereabouts since.
Hope this all helps,
Swez
brandonshady on 07/12/2004 22:03:07
That all sounds great...
I know the box is going to need to be built better. I have decided to go with 2 12" MOFO's. I found a great deal on 2 new ones, for around $120 each.
What are your views on caps.?
Is a battery upgrade a must?
Also, do you think the MOFO or Audiobahn 12" ALUMQ's are better to go with?
Also, the 6x9 4 ways are in my rear deck... not in the front kicks. I have 6 3/4" 3 ways in the kicks with an additional tweeter mounted in mirror pod. Do you think I should upgrade speaker choice to a Componet System?
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