ok, so this forum is pretty cool. there is some knowledgeable people here.
so I know how to set up one amp. but I am wondering how to set up multiple amps. since there is only one wire for plugin on a deck for the remote turn on, how do you hook up a second amp. also, do you just run 2 separate power cords to your battery and same with the ground?
Replies (6)
UKinstaller on 07/4/2004 21:31:51
glad you like this place. i know very little compared to some of the guys around here, but i help when i can.
setting up multiple amps is pretty easy. for power, you can use a distribution block. you can split either a 4 gauge or 8 gauge wire into two and up to four connections. you can also use a block for the ground, but personally i use two grounds located very close to each other because it is cheaper. whichever you wanna do for the ground is cool, but the less that is grounded to the chassis, the less chance for picking up road noise.
as for a remote, all you have to do for the second amp is run a wire from its remote input to the input of the other amp. you can do this when wiring up to 4 amps without damaging the remote output on the radio.
that's all you have to do for power on multiple amps. it is very easy. are you running multiple subwoofer amps or are you having subwoofer(s) and a 4 channel amp??
hope that helps,
-UK
Pinch on 07/4/2004 21:46:13
Yeah, this forum is a great place to learn! As for your question, hooking up multiple amps is easy if you are comfortable with one. The first step is to figure out how much current you will be drawing total (for both amps together), and then determine the appropriate wire size for that amount of amperage. For example, a 50X4 amp will draw 200/12 amps, or approximately 17 amps. A 500 watt sub amp will draw about 42 amps. Together, you will be drawing 59 amps of current. So, you look up your current draw on this handy dandy wire size chart (http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t1)
and see that you fall somewhere between 7 and 8 awg wire. Never use smaller wire than necessary. Your amp will feel like it is trying to suck a Wendy's Frosty through a swizzle stick. In this case, use 4 awg since it is far more common than 5,6, or 7 awg wire.
So, you've got your 4 awg wire running from your battery back to where your amps are gonna go. Now you should hook it up to a distribution block. This is gonna be similar to what's probably clamped on to the positive terminal of your battery post. It is basically a "one input, several output" kind of thing. Plug your 4 awg wire into it, and then run one of the smaller wires to each of the amps. It is probably ok to run 8 awg the short distance from the distribution block to the amp. So power is good. As for the remote turn on wire, it is ok to just daisy chain this wire. It won't carry much current, so it's ok to have a small wire run from the deck to the back. Then just twist two wires together, solder them to the wire running from the back of the deck, and connect the other ends to the amps. As far as ground goes, it is a good idea to ground them as close to the amp as possible. Don't run a wire all the way back to the battery, just find a BARE METAL spot near the amp(s) and clean it with a wire brush till it looks nice and shiny. Next I like to use a self tapping screw (make sure you're not going to screw into anything under your vehicle...gas tanks seem not to get along with screws:) and secure the ring terminals of the ground leads of the amps to that shiny spot. Put the wire grounding the amp with the highest current draw closest to the shiny spot. In the above example, the 500 watt amp's ground lead should be on the metal, and the 50X4 amp's ground lead should be stacked on top of it. And that's about it. I hope I didn't ramble too much.
Pinch on 07/4/2004 21:47:32
Hehe, I took too long writing and UK beat me...
Happy 4th Everyone!
swez on 07/4/2004 22:56:51
Can only add a few comments as the others have done well so far.
The issue I wish to address, is how much current both amps will draw at say 80% of full capacity. To be on the safe side, it is always good to use #4 gage power feed wire from the BAT to inline fuse, then back to the D-block when running 2 or more amplifiers.
Depending on the total power draw, the D-block should have at least one #4 input (maybe dual #4's) and a few #8 outputs. Since the whole D-block is a common power source, you can use inputs or outputs as power taps interchangeably. Depends on the amps used. Bigger amps that draw large amounts of current, may need a #4 wire, while smaller amps will only need a #8. Are you with me so far? I don't want to lose you here.
The REM feed issues were covered by others. Just note that some amps pull more current to turn them on than others. It is wise to limit the HU REM line to a pair of amps. If you use more than 2 amps, then a relay circuit for REM is best. Can explain that later, if you need to take that route.
FYI: Most HU's can deliver 200 - 250mA (~1/4 ampere) of current off the HU REM. If we draw more than that, it will blow the REM circuit and you'll have to hardwire a separate manual REM lead. Most newer amps draw well under that for REM. Older RF and MTX amps can really suck up REM power and overload the HU REM circuit.
Lastly, make sure you have enough RCA feeds from the HU to run all amps. Many of the newer amps have RCA outs to "daisy chain" signals to other amps. A nice feature to have amd really simplifies the install of a 2nd amp kit. If you need more RCA inputs, we can give you a few other options as well.
Glad you like the site. Yes, there are some very talented guys to help out. Some are specialists and many are generalists that know a little or a lot, on many subjects. You'll figure out whois which in time.
Good luck on your install upgrades and feel free to comment on your results when done. We enjoy other peoples' successes even more that just doling out advice.
Swez
PS You seem to be catching on very fast... good deal and keep it up. You can have my chair anytime you are ready. hehe BTW, the pay ain't so hot, (no monitary comp) but if you like helping others, the perks are very rewarding! Right guys ???
acgrundy on 07/6/2004 02:36:51
thanks for the help guys. I'm actually not doing any of this right now, as I don't have the money, or even a nice enuff car. but I really like learning about this stuff, and I was always curious about this. thanks again.
UKinstaller on 07/6/2004 09:40:21
well that's cool that you like learning this stuff. there's a lot to learn, but once you understand the basics, you can learn pretty much anything.
BTW, in my opinion, there's no such thing as not having a nice enough car to put in a nice sounding car audio system. i wouldn't get into video and all that, but everybody deserves to have a nice sounding system no matter what the car is.
any more questions??
take it easy,
-UK
so I know how to set up one amp. but I am wondering how to set up multiple amps. since there is only one wire for plugin on a deck for the remote turn on, how do you hook up a second amp. also, do you just run 2 separate power cords to your battery and same with the ground?
Replies (6)
UKinstaller on 07/4/2004 21:31:51
glad you like this place. i know very little compared to some of the guys around here, but i help when i can.
setting up multiple amps is pretty easy. for power, you can use a distribution block. you can split either a 4 gauge or 8 gauge wire into two and up to four connections. you can also use a block for the ground, but personally i use two grounds located very close to each other because it is cheaper. whichever you wanna do for the ground is cool, but the less that is grounded to the chassis, the less chance for picking up road noise.
as for a remote, all you have to do for the second amp is run a wire from its remote input to the input of the other amp. you can do this when wiring up to 4 amps without damaging the remote output on the radio.
that's all you have to do for power on multiple amps. it is very easy. are you running multiple subwoofer amps or are you having subwoofer(s) and a 4 channel amp??
hope that helps,
-UK
Pinch on 07/4/2004 21:46:13
Yeah, this forum is a great place to learn! As for your question, hooking up multiple amps is easy if you are comfortable with one. The first step is to figure out how much current you will be drawing total (for both amps together), and then determine the appropriate wire size for that amount of amperage. For example, a 50X4 amp will draw 200/12 amps, or approximately 17 amps. A 500 watt sub amp will draw about 42 amps. Together, you will be drawing 59 amps of current. So, you look up your current draw on this handy dandy wire size chart (http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t1)
and see that you fall somewhere between 7 and 8 awg wire. Never use smaller wire than necessary. Your amp will feel like it is trying to suck a Wendy's Frosty through a swizzle stick. In this case, use 4 awg since it is far more common than 5,6, or 7 awg wire.
So, you've got your 4 awg wire running from your battery back to where your amps are gonna go. Now you should hook it up to a distribution block. This is gonna be similar to what's probably clamped on to the positive terminal of your battery post. It is basically a "one input, several output" kind of thing. Plug your 4 awg wire into it, and then run one of the smaller wires to each of the amps. It is probably ok to run 8 awg the short distance from the distribution block to the amp. So power is good. As for the remote turn on wire, it is ok to just daisy chain this wire. It won't carry much current, so it's ok to have a small wire run from the deck to the back. Then just twist two wires together, solder them to the wire running from the back of the deck, and connect the other ends to the amps. As far as ground goes, it is a good idea to ground them as close to the amp as possible. Don't run a wire all the way back to the battery, just find a BARE METAL spot near the amp(s) and clean it with a wire brush till it looks nice and shiny. Next I like to use a self tapping screw (make sure you're not going to screw into anything under your vehicle...gas tanks seem not to get along with screws:) and secure the ring terminals of the ground leads of the amps to that shiny spot. Put the wire grounding the amp with the highest current draw closest to the shiny spot. In the above example, the 500 watt amp's ground lead should be on the metal, and the 50X4 amp's ground lead should be stacked on top of it. And that's about it. I hope I didn't ramble too much.
Pinch on 07/4/2004 21:47:32
Hehe, I took too long writing and UK beat me...
Happy 4th Everyone!
swez on 07/4/2004 22:56:51
Can only add a few comments as the others have done well so far.
The issue I wish to address, is how much current both amps will draw at say 80% of full capacity. To be on the safe side, it is always good to use #4 gage power feed wire from the BAT to inline fuse, then back to the D-block when running 2 or more amplifiers.
Depending on the total power draw, the D-block should have at least one #4 input (maybe dual #4's) and a few #8 outputs. Since the whole D-block is a common power source, you can use inputs or outputs as power taps interchangeably. Depends on the amps used. Bigger amps that draw large amounts of current, may need a #4 wire, while smaller amps will only need a #8. Are you with me so far? I don't want to lose you here.
The REM feed issues were covered by others. Just note that some amps pull more current to turn them on than others. It is wise to limit the HU REM line to a pair of amps. If you use more than 2 amps, then a relay circuit for REM is best. Can explain that later, if you need to take that route.
FYI: Most HU's can deliver 200 - 250mA (~1/4 ampere) of current off the HU REM. If we draw more than that, it will blow the REM circuit and you'll have to hardwire a separate manual REM lead. Most newer amps draw well under that for REM. Older RF and MTX amps can really suck up REM power and overload the HU REM circuit.
Lastly, make sure you have enough RCA feeds from the HU to run all amps. Many of the newer amps have RCA outs to "daisy chain" signals to other amps. A nice feature to have amd really simplifies the install of a 2nd amp kit. If you need more RCA inputs, we can give you a few other options as well.
Glad you like the site. Yes, there are some very talented guys to help out. Some are specialists and many are generalists that know a little or a lot, on many subjects. You'll figure out whois which in time.
Good luck on your install upgrades and feel free to comment on your results when done. We enjoy other peoples' successes even more that just doling out advice.
Swez
PS You seem to be catching on very fast... good deal and keep it up. You can have my chair anytime you are ready. hehe BTW, the pay ain't so hot, (no monitary comp) but if you like helping others, the perks are very rewarding! Right guys ???
acgrundy on 07/6/2004 02:36:51
thanks for the help guys. I'm actually not doing any of this right now, as I don't have the money, or even a nice enuff car. but I really like learning about this stuff, and I was always curious about this. thanks again.
UKinstaller on 07/6/2004 09:40:21
well that's cool that you like learning this stuff. there's a lot to learn, but once you understand the basics, you can learn pretty much anything.
BTW, in my opinion, there's no such thing as not having a nice enough car to put in a nice sounding car audio system. i wouldn't get into video and all that, but everybody deserves to have a nice sounding system no matter what the car is.
any more questions??
take it easy,
-UK
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