i have a pair of buckets to install in my 84 mazda but i don't really know which is better for installing a pair of 10s behind my seat. i have one 10 already behind on my passanger side and am planning to put another 10 on my side. it is very limited size already and i don't really know if buckets will make more or less room behind them.
Replies (20)
uochronos on 06/8/2004 02:23:28
i dont see them making less.... i honestly dont know i have a ranger much newer a 2003 to be exat and mine has buckets instead of bench and i know it ads room to have buckets in mine anyway. uif you have buckest and have a bench then measure them and see which leaves more room.
swez on 06/8/2004 10:26:23
Agreed... and don't just get locked in on the horizontal plane either. If you have enough vertical height behind the passenger seat, you may be able to stack a pair of 10's on that side and amps behind your seat.
Swez
ttocs on 06/8/2004 12:35:40
if you do buckets you can build a box/consol...........
oldmazda on 06/8/2004 23:23:47
i measured it out and i would lose an inch or two if i put the buckets, also i would have to mount the seats with the box in because the seats i got are for a four door so they don't flip up convieniently but if my truck is about one thing it surely isn't convienient to upgrade. one of the main reasons i wanted to put the buckets in place was so that i would be able to have a 10 behind each seat and my 6 by 9s in the centre. what do you think, should i keep my bench and just upgrade my 6 and 1/2s which i plan on doing anyways and get rid of my 6 by 9s completely?
compvr15s on 06/9/2004 09:53:19
it would definitly help if you upgraded your 6 1/2s in the doors with a good set of component speaks, and personally i would get rid of the 6x9s in that small of a vehicle. your fronts will definity produce enough sound. they are just their for rear fill. do you have enough room to build a box upfront, like where the consol would be? or is this a stick... have seen that done before. just extent the box from under your dash to the floor and then back to the front of the seats. can use matched carpet and make it look really custom and nice. dont know how much room you have. but for sure if you were planning on puttin your 6x9s in the center i would just eliminate them all together. just use the money that you save from buying the 6x9s and get a better set of 6 1/2s.... does the mazda have any where in the dash for the tweets. that usually sounds best, but can also mount them on the pillars as well or now lots of comps have a built in piller on the actual woofer to mount the tweet on to.
swez on 06/9/2004 10:13:45
Definitely improve your sound satge up front with a pair of quality 6.5" Comps and a modest 2 channel amp for more power.
As for the rear 6x9's... can dump em, disconnect them of just run them as rear fill off the HU rear channels. They are not a big priority in such a small vehicle.
Sub enclosure: I like the option noted by ttocs and CompVR... a console mounted sub kit, between the bucket seats. That is, if there is enough room for an enclosure that is useful for bass drivers. (8,10 or a 12" sub) The height and depth should be easy enough to manage. The width of the console is the main factor to consider when loading subs.
Map is all out and see what size console may fit with a set of buckets in there. Gotta think both inside and outside the box for this application.
Comments?
Swez
ttocs on 06/9/2004 11:43:16
how much space would be between the buckets? You might be able to sqeeze a 10 in the consol and use the rear for amp/speaker mounting.
oldmazda on 06/9/2004 17:57:40
well i have some pictures of my the interior of my truck with the buckets and the bench and the stereo that i have now so if someone know wants to take a look i could send them or something. the pictures of the buckets are not a definate thing but it should give an idea of how much room there is. there is also a picture or 2 of my truck with no seats to take a look at how the floor looks and the transmision and drive staft hump.br
swez on 06/9/2004 22:15:44
Pics do help a bit for an good overview. But we may need dimensional specifics as to what the actual space is available.
If you know how much room is between each seat (width max), how much forward and rearward room (length max) is available for an enclosure and how high you can go on the new enclosure/center console (height max) you feel is comfortable... then we can noodle out a few enclosure designs to consider.
Swez
oldmazda on 06/9/2004 22:31:07
alrite these dimensions might not be perfect but i should be able to go 18" from my shifter to the back of my cab 16" high but here is the tricky one, i would probably only have 6" between the buckets. i don't really know how much room i would need to do this if the sub would be between because it wouldn't it likely be hitting the seat? you could tell me if this would be enough room if its not i found out that i could be able to put a 10 behind the passanger seat but i would have to mount the seat with the sub already in place because the seats that i got are for a '94 4 door firefly. also there is transmision/driveshaft hump that goes all the way to the back of my cab that i would have to build around. any suggestions?
oldmazda on 06/10/2004 00:31:33
also if i am to be putting in more subs which is what i plan to do even with the inconvenience of the seats i have i will need the equipment and i was wondering about ebay. i have been looking at amplifiers and they have so many cheap ones but lots of them are pyramid.... is pyramid as bad at making amps as it is at making decks and speakers? because i have heard and seen some terrible things about pyramid.
swez on 06/10/2004 10:39:42
As I picture this layout in my mind, it sounds like you might be OK with the overall Height & Length dimensions. The Width of ~6.0" will make for a very slimline sub install. If you only have 6" of width, then subtract 3/4" for each panel thickness... that leaves a 4.5" depth for the sub(s). If the sub used, has a cooling vent at the back of the magnet, need about 1.0" of airspace here to cool the sub as well. Now the sub is very shallow huh?
Am wondering if a multi-chamber enclosure might be in order here? This would allow you to use a slightly wider segment behind the seats for a deeper sub (and a longer, yet narrow segment between the seats to get the proper airspace for the sub(s). This would be your console section. More like a "T" designed box that traditional rectangles etc.
Can you picture that type of enclosure in your mind?
1. A long, narrow console chamber, ~6" width, "X" height and "Y" long
2. Then integrate a 2nd section of the enclosure to that console, large enough to fit 1 or 2, 10" subs that face outward to the sides of the rear cabin, behind the seats.
If using only 1 sub, this would be a bit easier to design. However, if using a pair of subs, a long internal divider board might be needed to prevent rear wave cancellations. This would in effect, be 2 sealed chambers in one enclosure. No biggie... that is common in all dual sub, sealed enclosures. Wish we could sketch on this forum!
OK, do you see the general concept I am struggling to explain to you? You can draw a scaled picture (dimensions included) in MS draw, Powerpoint or a jpeg file, then pass it on to me. I can review it, make comments and maybe add some sketched parameters as well.
If you wish to do that, just send me an e-mail with the overall dimensions available and we can try to sort out a best case plan of attack. The sketch should include:
1. Seat placements
2. Space dimensions between seats for console/enclosure
3. Length between shifter and rear of cabin
4. Space available behind the seats for sub mounting section (H,D & W)
My email is: swezdp@juno.com
Swez
PS The floor hump for drive train might be a challenge to work around, but can always add a pair of runner boards inder the console to lift console above it or make a false floor over the hump as well.
oldmazda on 06/10/2004 13:44:04
sorry but i don't know if i understand, the console wouldn't have a sub in it? where do the subs go if they were to face the side of the cabin, they wouldn't be behind the seat then, they would be in the center with boxes extending to behind the seat? what i was thinking was that the console would have a sub of its own facing either the driver or the passanger with the 2 subs one behind each seat. hmm i'm sorry i'm just not getting this, if i am way far off of what you were thinking just say something and i'll try to redesign. if you have a sketch that you could send me that'd be awesome my e-mail is skoalman_54@hotmail.com
swez on 06/10/2004 18:19:13
Now, a picture may be worth many words to help explain this concept. I'll see what I can do in a very basic sketch, e-mail to you and then we can discuss it more OK?
Swez
PS This is a hard thing to do over the Net... but we'll try to get you there anyway.
ttocs on 06/10/2004 19:01:05
we do alot of down-firing subs in consol's here at the shop. you need to leave a couple of inches between it and the floor.
oldmazda on 06/10/2004 21:48:38
i dunno about ttocs' idea i might be able to do that if i had the space... i'll have to put in my buckets tomorrowand measure. if i do have the room could i build a box that basically looks like a square funnel so that it would have the width i need for the sub on the bottom and still come up to fit between the fat part of my seats. this way the deepest part of the sub would be able to come up higher i just don't really know what kind of dimensions i would need or would if this type of box would work at all.
swez on 06/10/2004 23:58:00
Am sending you a very basic drawing in Power Point format to look at. Hopefully, this will spawn some ideas. Check your e-mail and open the attachment for the drawing.
No real dimensions in this drawing now. Can add them is this design makes sense and will fit.
Swez
oldmazda on 06/11/2004 03:55:10
ok this is great i actually know what you are talking about now. i do however have a question which is, where am i supposed to find the space, i would have to have at least 10 inches of room to fit these behind my seats if this is the idea you were having. i was however thinking of having just a single 10 with the same general setup (probably an mtx because of the limited depth) with the sub facing toward the back of the cab and the box narrowing to fit between my seats that would be my console. then to make sure that i would still have more than a single 10 i would put a ten behind each seat (this would be a pain because i would have to mount the seat with the sub already in place and bolted down but i am prepared to put in the extra effort) i think this might work better than ttocs idea of a sub facing downward because my seats would already be ahead a little because of the 10's behind the seats. i just don't know how if that shape of enclosure would work. well i am open to any critizism because you all certainly know more about stereos than me i just know a little more about my truck.
uochronos on 06/11/2004 04:07:28
you know 1 really good 10 or 12 well be as good as 3 low performance 10's... in the wedge design swez mentioned you can get a higher performance speaker and get it as loud as yuou would like. for an example a single elemental designs sub, a jl w6, or another brand that has a higher power effiecient sub. my friend is actualy doing almost the same exact install in a 88 ranger that had a bench seat and he is puting in newer buckets. i measured his truck which should be reasonably simialr and he has more then enough room for a decent sized 12 as long as he makes a box thats big at the back that narows at the seats...
if you end up using 3 mtx subs this would be not as loud and probaly spendier then getting one sub that is more efficient and handles more power,
swez on 06/11/2004 09:43:51
We can easily adjust the concept I sent to you using a single sub. It would bew just as you said... a wedge type funnel. The lip of the funnel will have to be large enough for the sub to fit. The tapered nozzle of the funnel, will be your airspace chamber.
I will send you a new sketch with a single sub, rear mounted. If that appeals to you, then we take it to the next step... measure the real space avilable and then move on to construction.
BTW, (as Chronos mentioned) a single strong driver is all you need in this small cabin space. The choice of sub, enclosure design and power to push the sub will do the rest.
Swez
Replies (20)
uochronos on 06/8/2004 02:23:28
i dont see them making less.... i honestly dont know i have a ranger much newer a 2003 to be exat and mine has buckets instead of bench and i know it ads room to have buckets in mine anyway. uif you have buckest and have a bench then measure them and see which leaves more room.
swez on 06/8/2004 10:26:23
Agreed... and don't just get locked in on the horizontal plane either. If you have enough vertical height behind the passenger seat, you may be able to stack a pair of 10's on that side and amps behind your seat.
Swez
ttocs on 06/8/2004 12:35:40
if you do buckets you can build a box/consol...........
oldmazda on 06/8/2004 23:23:47
i measured it out and i would lose an inch or two if i put the buckets, also i would have to mount the seats with the box in because the seats i got are for a four door so they don't flip up convieniently but if my truck is about one thing it surely isn't convienient to upgrade. one of the main reasons i wanted to put the buckets in place was so that i would be able to have a 10 behind each seat and my 6 by 9s in the centre. what do you think, should i keep my bench and just upgrade my 6 and 1/2s which i plan on doing anyways and get rid of my 6 by 9s completely?
compvr15s on 06/9/2004 09:53:19
it would definitly help if you upgraded your 6 1/2s in the doors with a good set of component speaks, and personally i would get rid of the 6x9s in that small of a vehicle. your fronts will definity produce enough sound. they are just their for rear fill. do you have enough room to build a box upfront, like where the consol would be? or is this a stick... have seen that done before. just extent the box from under your dash to the floor and then back to the front of the seats. can use matched carpet and make it look really custom and nice. dont know how much room you have. but for sure if you were planning on puttin your 6x9s in the center i would just eliminate them all together. just use the money that you save from buying the 6x9s and get a better set of 6 1/2s.... does the mazda have any where in the dash for the tweets. that usually sounds best, but can also mount them on the pillars as well or now lots of comps have a built in piller on the actual woofer to mount the tweet on to.
swez on 06/9/2004 10:13:45
Definitely improve your sound satge up front with a pair of quality 6.5" Comps and a modest 2 channel amp for more power.
As for the rear 6x9's... can dump em, disconnect them of just run them as rear fill off the HU rear channels. They are not a big priority in such a small vehicle.
Sub enclosure: I like the option noted by ttocs and CompVR... a console mounted sub kit, between the bucket seats. That is, if there is enough room for an enclosure that is useful for bass drivers. (8,10 or a 12" sub) The height and depth should be easy enough to manage. The width of the console is the main factor to consider when loading subs.
Map is all out and see what size console may fit with a set of buckets in there. Gotta think both inside and outside the box for this application.
Comments?
Swez
ttocs on 06/9/2004 11:43:16
how much space would be between the buckets? You might be able to sqeeze a 10 in the consol and use the rear for amp/speaker mounting.
oldmazda on 06/9/2004 17:57:40
well i have some pictures of my the interior of my truck with the buckets and the bench and the stereo that i have now so if someone know wants to take a look i could send them or something. the pictures of the buckets are not a definate thing but it should give an idea of how much room there is. there is also a picture or 2 of my truck with no seats to take a look at how the floor looks and the transmision and drive staft hump.br
swez on 06/9/2004 22:15:44
Pics do help a bit for an good overview. But we may need dimensional specifics as to what the actual space is available.
If you know how much room is between each seat (width max), how much forward and rearward room (length max) is available for an enclosure and how high you can go on the new enclosure/center console (height max) you feel is comfortable... then we can noodle out a few enclosure designs to consider.
Swez
oldmazda on 06/9/2004 22:31:07
alrite these dimensions might not be perfect but i should be able to go 18" from my shifter to the back of my cab 16" high but here is the tricky one, i would probably only have 6" between the buckets. i don't really know how much room i would need to do this if the sub would be between because it wouldn't it likely be hitting the seat? you could tell me if this would be enough room if its not i found out that i could be able to put a 10 behind the passanger seat but i would have to mount the seat with the sub already in place because the seats that i got are for a '94 4 door firefly. also there is transmision/driveshaft hump that goes all the way to the back of my cab that i would have to build around. any suggestions?
oldmazda on 06/10/2004 00:31:33
also if i am to be putting in more subs which is what i plan to do even with the inconvenience of the seats i have i will need the equipment and i was wondering about ebay. i have been looking at amplifiers and they have so many cheap ones but lots of them are pyramid.... is pyramid as bad at making amps as it is at making decks and speakers? because i have heard and seen some terrible things about pyramid.
swez on 06/10/2004 10:39:42
As I picture this layout in my mind, it sounds like you might be OK with the overall Height & Length dimensions. The Width of ~6.0" will make for a very slimline sub install. If you only have 6" of width, then subtract 3/4" for each panel thickness... that leaves a 4.5" depth for the sub(s). If the sub used, has a cooling vent at the back of the magnet, need about 1.0" of airspace here to cool the sub as well. Now the sub is very shallow huh?
Am wondering if a multi-chamber enclosure might be in order here? This would allow you to use a slightly wider segment behind the seats for a deeper sub (and a longer, yet narrow segment between the seats to get the proper airspace for the sub(s). This would be your console section. More like a "T" designed box that traditional rectangles etc.
Can you picture that type of enclosure in your mind?
1. A long, narrow console chamber, ~6" width, "X" height and "Y" long
2. Then integrate a 2nd section of the enclosure to that console, large enough to fit 1 or 2, 10" subs that face outward to the sides of the rear cabin, behind the seats.
If using only 1 sub, this would be a bit easier to design. However, if using a pair of subs, a long internal divider board might be needed to prevent rear wave cancellations. This would in effect, be 2 sealed chambers in one enclosure. No biggie... that is common in all dual sub, sealed enclosures. Wish we could sketch on this forum!
OK, do you see the general concept I am struggling to explain to you? You can draw a scaled picture (dimensions included) in MS draw, Powerpoint or a jpeg file, then pass it on to me. I can review it, make comments and maybe add some sketched parameters as well.
If you wish to do that, just send me an e-mail with the overall dimensions available and we can try to sort out a best case plan of attack. The sketch should include:
1. Seat placements
2. Space dimensions between seats for console/enclosure
3. Length between shifter and rear of cabin
4. Space available behind the seats for sub mounting section (H,D & W)
My email is: swezdp@juno.com
Swez
PS The floor hump for drive train might be a challenge to work around, but can always add a pair of runner boards inder the console to lift console above it or make a false floor over the hump as well.
oldmazda on 06/10/2004 13:44:04
sorry but i don't know if i understand, the console wouldn't have a sub in it? where do the subs go if they were to face the side of the cabin, they wouldn't be behind the seat then, they would be in the center with boxes extending to behind the seat? what i was thinking was that the console would have a sub of its own facing either the driver or the passanger with the 2 subs one behind each seat. hmm i'm sorry i'm just not getting this, if i am way far off of what you were thinking just say something and i'll try to redesign. if you have a sketch that you could send me that'd be awesome my e-mail is skoalman_54@hotmail.com
swez on 06/10/2004 18:19:13
Now, a picture may be worth many words to help explain this concept. I'll see what I can do in a very basic sketch, e-mail to you and then we can discuss it more OK?
Swez
PS This is a hard thing to do over the Net... but we'll try to get you there anyway.
ttocs on 06/10/2004 19:01:05
we do alot of down-firing subs in consol's here at the shop. you need to leave a couple of inches between it and the floor.
oldmazda on 06/10/2004 21:48:38
i dunno about ttocs' idea i might be able to do that if i had the space... i'll have to put in my buckets tomorrowand measure. if i do have the room could i build a box that basically looks like a square funnel so that it would have the width i need for the sub on the bottom and still come up to fit between the fat part of my seats. this way the deepest part of the sub would be able to come up higher i just don't really know what kind of dimensions i would need or would if this type of box would work at all.
swez on 06/10/2004 23:58:00
Am sending you a very basic drawing in Power Point format to look at. Hopefully, this will spawn some ideas. Check your e-mail and open the attachment for the drawing.
No real dimensions in this drawing now. Can add them is this design makes sense and will fit.
Swez
oldmazda on 06/11/2004 03:55:10
ok this is great i actually know what you are talking about now. i do however have a question which is, where am i supposed to find the space, i would have to have at least 10 inches of room to fit these behind my seats if this is the idea you were having. i was however thinking of having just a single 10 with the same general setup (probably an mtx because of the limited depth) with the sub facing toward the back of the cab and the box narrowing to fit between my seats that would be my console. then to make sure that i would still have more than a single 10 i would put a ten behind each seat (this would be a pain because i would have to mount the seat with the sub already in place and bolted down but i am prepared to put in the extra effort) i think this might work better than ttocs idea of a sub facing downward because my seats would already be ahead a little because of the 10's behind the seats. i just don't know how if that shape of enclosure would work. well i am open to any critizism because you all certainly know more about stereos than me i just know a little more about my truck.
uochronos on 06/11/2004 04:07:28
you know 1 really good 10 or 12 well be as good as 3 low performance 10's... in the wedge design swez mentioned you can get a higher performance speaker and get it as loud as yuou would like. for an example a single elemental designs sub, a jl w6, or another brand that has a higher power effiecient sub. my friend is actualy doing almost the same exact install in a 88 ranger that had a bench seat and he is puting in newer buckets. i measured his truck which should be reasonably simialr and he has more then enough room for a decent sized 12 as long as he makes a box thats big at the back that narows at the seats...
if you end up using 3 mtx subs this would be not as loud and probaly spendier then getting one sub that is more efficient and handles more power,
swez on 06/11/2004 09:43:51
We can easily adjust the concept I sent to you using a single sub. It would bew just as you said... a wedge type funnel. The lip of the funnel will have to be large enough for the sub to fit. The tapered nozzle of the funnel, will be your airspace chamber.
I will send you a new sketch with a single sub, rear mounted. If that appeals to you, then we take it to the next step... measure the real space avilable and then move on to construction.
BTW, (as Chronos mentioned) a single strong driver is all you need in this small cabin space. The choice of sub, enclosure design and power to push the sub will do the rest.
Swez
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