I just ordered these components, I hope I wont be dissappointed. Just wanted to know if I should cutback on the gain on my PPI PC2300, so I dont overload my ALT. And still get the best performance from the CDT's. Because I have the Hifonics BX1000D at 2 ohms and I dont get any light dimming at all, right now. My ALT is rated at 90 amps and my Hifonics Bx1000D has a 60 amp fuse and the PPI doesnt have a fuse at all. Thanx
Replies (18)
uochronos on 06/5/2004 14:26:16
if your PPI amp does not have a fuse then you should run one of proper size ine the power wire to it. and the gain should be set to the same voltage as your preout from your HU. for instance if you have 2 volt preouts then set the gain to 2 volts.
swez on 06/5/2004 15:44:27
Looks like this amp can put out 75 watts continous @ a 4 ohm load per channel. Since it is class A/B, I would guess it will draw about 40 amps of current max. You can try fusing it at 30A., and see how it does with same. If you are blowing fuses regularly, move up to a 40A., fuse and use #8 power line/ground here.
Should sound very good with your CDT's. A very clean amp!
Swez
SeJae on 06/5/2004 16:22:12
Good, but I hope I dont drain my 90 amp ALT. I also have a Hifonics BX1000D running at 2 ohms, but I plan on running it at 1ohm here next month and I hope these to dont make me spend money on a HO ALT. Is there anyway to limit what the PPI amp puts out?..
swez on 06/5/2004 20:06:38
Sure, feed it less and it will put out less. Just dialing up the gain controls is usually enough to cut the power output to most any amp.
I think you will be pretty close to the bone when you start running the BX-1000D at full tilt boogey. What.. close to 100A., current draw at max? A larger CCA (850 +) rated BAT would help to supply enough current to both amps when you dial em up.
Swez
SeJae on 06/6/2004 04:28:39
So Im in the clear then, Swez?! Just wanted to make sure. And I only paid 60$ for the PPI amp. I think its worth 200 to 300 bucks on the web.
swez on 06/6/2004 10:10:41
It appears you may be OK on this if there is some good sense practiced in managing that bass power amp. It will pull some serious current.
$60.00 for that PPI amp??? Really... I think that one retailed for over $400.00 when new.
Enjoy your toys responsibly,
Swez
SeJae on 06/6/2004 12:47:20
Also, since the PPI amp doesnt have a fuse. Do you think If I put a 30 to 50 amp fuse in the D-block the amp will be protected?.. Or should I put a fuse between the two for extra protection?
swez on 06/6/2004 12:53:29
If you have a D-block already, and it has several fuse slots, fuse the PG at 30-40A., and try a 60-80A fuse off the Brutus 1000D.
I would hope you have a min of #4 (#2 would be better) main power feed line from BAT/FUSE to D-block. The fuse at the BAT should be 80 -100A.
Do you know how much current the 1000D pulls at 1 ohm?
Swez
SeJae on 06/6/2004 12:56:36
I asked John at Maxxsonics and he said about 70 amp current draw, but the BX1000D has a 60 amp fuse, so I think hes telling a tall tale.
swez on 06/6/2004 13:24:50
You may be getting schmosed here. A true 1000 watt class D will often fuse between 75-85A. Depends on circuity used and efficiency levels used. (that's @ 13.5 volts... if they use a higher voltage # of say 14.4 volts, the fuse # will be smaller)
I looked at the HiFonics website and no current draw details are noted at all... no install or operation .pdf files either. Did you get an operation/install manual with your 1000D amp? That info should be covered in the manuals somewhere. Take a L@@K.
Swez
SeJae on 06/6/2004 13:38:53
My manual has nothing on current draw. It must be old because the manual says that the BX1000D has a 80 amp fuse, but now it has a 60 amp fuse and it said that all features subject to change without notice. I think Im going to try and sell it. But Ill wait until I get the 15KV2 (2+2) and see what happens.
swez on 06/6/2004 13:45:15
Well, HiFonics does make some very good amps. Their info on same, may be less than desirable... but performance is whay you are after anyway.
I would believe the 80A fuse number, (full power mode) unless they redesigned the product to cut costs, draw less current and so on.
Swez
SeJae on 06/6/2004 13:56:54
One more thing to ask you. Im having trouble trying to find the enclosure for 15KV2 for for a cheap price. Edesign's specs for this is 1.5 to 1.8 sealed and thats what the customer service dude recommended. I just want to know how I can reduce the internal cubic feet, so I can get in between those two numbers?.. Oh yeah without buying an expensive box.
swez on 06/6/2004 14:38:43
Yes, you can use an enclosure that is in the middle or ~10% larger or smaller than specified. The smaller the cf air space, the more power the sub will handle, but less lows end bass.
The larger the enclosure, more low end bass is typical, but less power handling is typical as well.
If you do find a slightly larger enclosure... can add wood blocks or similar materials to bring the internal box volume down to specs for the sub. If you find a slightly smaller enclosure, fill it with ~ 16-20 Oz., of polyfill to give the sub the feel of a larger box.
Worst case, make your own enclosure per eD specs and save a small fortune. The building materials for this size enclosure will be about $60.00.
Swez
SeJae on 06/6/2004 14:55:19
Thanx, I found a sealed box at 1.88 cf, so thats less than the ~10% you were talking about, right?. It's 35$ before shipping. I gotta found out how much shipping still.br
swez on 06/6/2004 17:52:25
Just a thought... this box is going to hold a pretty potent sub and you have a pretty large amp. The material & construction of this kind of box will be an issue. Hopefully, the walls are 3/4" MDF and the baffle board is close to 1" thickness as well. A stout system, needs a stout enclosure.
Other than that, 1.88 cf is a good match.
Swez
SeJae on 06/7/2004 00:06:00
Yes, the box is 3/4" MDF, but I'm not sure if the baffle is 1" thick. The box is originally made for a PG titanium 15". So with this amp and sub setup I should be turning heads, right?!..
swez on 06/7/2004 09:52:33
You'll know that answer after the install is complete. Plenty of amping power here to work with, a great sub and the box should be up to the task... keep up your pace and you'll know the answer to your question in a few days.
Swez
PS Allow the new sub to break in a few days. It takes a while for a new sub to loosen up. After break in period, the sub should be breathing lots of bass waves out.
Replies (18)
uochronos on 06/5/2004 14:26:16
if your PPI amp does not have a fuse then you should run one of proper size ine the power wire to it. and the gain should be set to the same voltage as your preout from your HU. for instance if you have 2 volt preouts then set the gain to 2 volts.
swez on 06/5/2004 15:44:27
Looks like this amp can put out 75 watts continous @ a 4 ohm load per channel. Since it is class A/B, I would guess it will draw about 40 amps of current max. You can try fusing it at 30A., and see how it does with same. If you are blowing fuses regularly, move up to a 40A., fuse and use #8 power line/ground here.
Should sound very good with your CDT's. A very clean amp!
Swez
SeJae on 06/5/2004 16:22:12
Good, but I hope I dont drain my 90 amp ALT. I also have a Hifonics BX1000D running at 2 ohms, but I plan on running it at 1ohm here next month and I hope these to dont make me spend money on a HO ALT. Is there anyway to limit what the PPI amp puts out?..
swez on 06/5/2004 20:06:38
Sure, feed it less and it will put out less. Just dialing up the gain controls is usually enough to cut the power output to most any amp.
I think you will be pretty close to the bone when you start running the BX-1000D at full tilt boogey. What.. close to 100A., current draw at max? A larger CCA (850 +) rated BAT would help to supply enough current to both amps when you dial em up.
Swez
SeJae on 06/6/2004 04:28:39
So Im in the clear then, Swez?! Just wanted to make sure. And I only paid 60$ for the PPI amp. I think its worth 200 to 300 bucks on the web.
swez on 06/6/2004 10:10:41
It appears you may be OK on this if there is some good sense practiced in managing that bass power amp. It will pull some serious current.
$60.00 for that PPI amp??? Really... I think that one retailed for over $400.00 when new.
Enjoy your toys responsibly,
Swez
SeJae on 06/6/2004 12:47:20
Also, since the PPI amp doesnt have a fuse. Do you think If I put a 30 to 50 amp fuse in the D-block the amp will be protected?.. Or should I put a fuse between the two for extra protection?
swez on 06/6/2004 12:53:29
If you have a D-block already, and it has several fuse slots, fuse the PG at 30-40A., and try a 60-80A fuse off the Brutus 1000D.
I would hope you have a min of #4 (#2 would be better) main power feed line from BAT/FUSE to D-block. The fuse at the BAT should be 80 -100A.
Do you know how much current the 1000D pulls at 1 ohm?
Swez
SeJae on 06/6/2004 12:56:36
I asked John at Maxxsonics and he said about 70 amp current draw, but the BX1000D has a 60 amp fuse, so I think hes telling a tall tale.
swez on 06/6/2004 13:24:50
You may be getting schmosed here. A true 1000 watt class D will often fuse between 75-85A. Depends on circuity used and efficiency levels used. (that's @ 13.5 volts... if they use a higher voltage # of say 14.4 volts, the fuse # will be smaller)
I looked at the HiFonics website and no current draw details are noted at all... no install or operation .pdf files either. Did you get an operation/install manual with your 1000D amp? That info should be covered in the manuals somewhere. Take a L@@K.
Swez
SeJae on 06/6/2004 13:38:53
My manual has nothing on current draw. It must be old because the manual says that the BX1000D has a 80 amp fuse, but now it has a 60 amp fuse and it said that all features subject to change without notice. I think Im going to try and sell it. But Ill wait until I get the 15KV2 (2+2) and see what happens.
swez on 06/6/2004 13:45:15
Well, HiFonics does make some very good amps. Their info on same, may be less than desirable... but performance is whay you are after anyway.
I would believe the 80A fuse number, (full power mode) unless they redesigned the product to cut costs, draw less current and so on.
Swez
SeJae on 06/6/2004 13:56:54
One more thing to ask you. Im having trouble trying to find the enclosure for 15KV2 for for a cheap price. Edesign's specs for this is 1.5 to 1.8 sealed and thats what the customer service dude recommended. I just want to know how I can reduce the internal cubic feet, so I can get in between those two numbers?.. Oh yeah without buying an expensive box.
swez on 06/6/2004 14:38:43
Yes, you can use an enclosure that is in the middle or ~10% larger or smaller than specified. The smaller the cf air space, the more power the sub will handle, but less lows end bass.
The larger the enclosure, more low end bass is typical, but less power handling is typical as well.
If you do find a slightly larger enclosure... can add wood blocks or similar materials to bring the internal box volume down to specs for the sub. If you find a slightly smaller enclosure, fill it with ~ 16-20 Oz., of polyfill to give the sub the feel of a larger box.
Worst case, make your own enclosure per eD specs and save a small fortune. The building materials for this size enclosure will be about $60.00.
Swez
SeJae on 06/6/2004 14:55:19
Thanx, I found a sealed box at 1.88 cf, so thats less than the ~10% you were talking about, right?. It's 35$ before shipping. I gotta found out how much shipping still.br
swez on 06/6/2004 17:52:25
Just a thought... this box is going to hold a pretty potent sub and you have a pretty large amp. The material & construction of this kind of box will be an issue. Hopefully, the walls are 3/4" MDF and the baffle board is close to 1" thickness as well. A stout system, needs a stout enclosure.
Other than that, 1.88 cf is a good match.
Swez
SeJae on 06/7/2004 00:06:00
Yes, the box is 3/4" MDF, but I'm not sure if the baffle is 1" thick. The box is originally made for a PG titanium 15". So with this amp and sub setup I should be turning heads, right?!..
swez on 06/7/2004 09:52:33
You'll know that answer after the install is complete. Plenty of amping power here to work with, a great sub and the box should be up to the task... keep up your pace and you'll know the answer to your question in a few days.
Swez
PS Allow the new sub to break in a few days. It takes a while for a new sub to loosen up. After break in period, the sub should be breathing lots of bass waves out.
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