Hello From the Guy that Brougth you About to get Amped.
Well I said I was A machinist right? and I was. Problem is that I do not remmeber all the math formulas.
Luckly at work today one guy gave me the formula to calculate how big a container I got to make to hold such amount of Liquid. Well in my case it is air chamber. I figure it is the same so this is what he gave me.
L x W x H / 231"Cube=??Gallons
now 3.785l = 1 Gallon.
In my case I need a 21.2 litres 0r (this is where i am messed up) .75 ft cube. I can understand how to get my calculations for my box by knowing that i need 21,2 litres then converting it to imperial and it is 5.601 gal. in therms the box will be around 11" x 11" x 10.75" (inside) Do I Have to compensate for the space that the back of the woofer is taking. and add that in my callculation. (Sealed Enclosure)
The Outside Dimensions will be 12.5 x 12.5 x 12.25
To me that size looks small
The JL Audio Site hase the Enclosure 18" x 11" x 10.25 (Outside Dimensions) and that is = to 8.786 gallons
Now thats a differance of 3.185 gallons to me that is a lot
This is why I am wondering if the woofer is taking 3.185 gallons of space or less
if the formula he has given me works. Which should because at work we make Hydraulic Power Units and we have to calculate tank sizes all the time. So It has to work.
I still feel I need the box a bit bigger for some reason like
15 x 12.5 x 12.25
I hope you know.
This is something I really want to know and understand
I want to be able to help out other people with this after.
I know most will tell my go to the store and buy one.
That is not my goal. My goal is to do this myself and understand what I am doing Because I think a lot of sellsmen don't have a clue what they are saying Basically repeating what someone else says. and they just want you money and the product might not work. Well I am really trying to get the Dimensions perfect for each of my Subs. So that I know what I have done should work perfectly. Plus There nothing more Satisfying then hearing people say wow man sounds awsome and then ask you where did you get this done? then You say my friend and I did it. It is a great feeling.
P.S. I went to a store today and I saw a Phenix Gold Class D Amp it had 250 w RMS x1 at 4 ohms I forgot the Model Number it was going for 300$ Canadian For some reason I get this feeling that this Product is really good.
the only problem is My JL Audio 10W04 are 125rms each.
Does that mean I would have to run My Amp. at full power all the time? I feel it is like I would have to have the Preddle to the meddle all the time to enjoy my car. please explain on thi one.
Replies (7)
uochronos on 06/4/2004 01:26:31
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t22
swez on 06/4/2004 08:44:47
The JL website offers a very good tuitorial on enclosure designs for their subs. If you follow their guidelines, a very good box is going to come out of it. However, if the box shape does not fit your space well, adjusting a few parameters will still net excellent bass.
Yes, there is a "fudge factor" and there is no perfect sub or enclosure design. But with a little background information in that FAQ noted above, you'll have a better understanding of the parameters required to make a great enclosure. As for calculating air space, we are looking at the "Volume/Area" of the enclosure for air space needed. When converting liters tcubic feet, use 1 liter = 0.035 cubic ft. One cubic foot = 28.32 liters. A shortcut math notation... 1.0 ft^3 = 28.32 l.
That PG amp is probably a very good choice for your subs if a Class D amp and 2 ohms stable. Can you get the model number? Will check it out and let you know if it is well suited to your subs. As for power ratings on the amp and subs... these JL's are conservatively rated at 125 RMS/sub. They can take take 200+ RMS and still be fine. Past 250 per sub, heading for a sub meltdown.
Amping power and sub choices are alot like a car engine and drive train. Just because a given engine can produce 500 HP and 475 ft. lbs of torque (@ 5500 RPM), does not mean we drive it to the red line all the time right? Sure nuff not!!! The engine will perform fine at 2,500 RPM, but will have plenty of reserve power when we hit the throttle.
Same idea applies to amps and subs. They perform well in a range of power settings. Yes, they can idle well or take a fast start from Zero to 130 dB in a few milli-seconds. But for normal everyday listening... they can cruise along just fine at a fraction of the power available... NO PROBLEM! Actually, it is better to buy an amp with more RMS power than the subs are rated for. When the amp is set up properly, very little distortion comes from the amp, going out to the subs. A clean 200 RMS to each sub, is better than 125 watts of "dirty power" (high
distortion content) because the amp is straining too hard to meet the demands from the idiot at the wheel. (volume control) When the amp is straining, the subs will get stressed and something will eventually give out. Usually the subs blow.
Oh, when calculating internal air volume of an enclosure, you do have to take account of the sub displacement, internal divider board and port displacements as well. (if using a ported enclosure)
Hope that helps, HAPPY
Swez
NOTES:
1. General specs on 10W04:
http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/10w0.html
2. Install manual w/ enclosure specs:
http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/pdfs/10_12_15W0_MAN.pdf
0u1lowwd2 on 06/6/2004 03:02:00
Hey Swez and Uochronos.
I did go to the JL Audio SItes and Download all info possible so in conlusion here is my decision.
Ok it is done I am making two seperate enclosure to spec. They will be 12.5" x 12.5" x 12.25" this is equale to 21 litres, from my calculations but i might just do 14" x 12.5" x 12.2 5" using 3/4" mdf.
The Enclosure I have Is not MDF Material. I forgot the name of it. it is like wood chips all clued and compressed together. I heard that it could blow up so forget about it. It will go back as a Telephone stand As it was for the last 3 years. Only this time i will gutt it out and make shelvings then cover it with something a a little livingroomish.
Anyhow What made me decide is that the MDF 3/4" 8' x 4" was only $24.00 (Can) cheap enough for me.
Now I have some Questions.
Inside the enclosure Do I have to put that Pillow stuffing Stuff? What is it called again?
Is there anything else that I can put.?
(After this, the subject on enclosures with me, should be closed forever)
Now for the Amp, looking at the other topics I see that you like to really convince people to buy online. I am nervouse about thios with all the spy-ware and stuff. I would like to know where I can get an amp for a good price. I will risk It no problem.
As you know I have 2 10" JL Audio series 10W04. 125W RMS each. 250W Max.
They will go in a Trunk (obviously) of A VW Jetta III Gen. As you know it is a big trunk for a campact car.
Now I was Told THat Phoenix Gold is really good. Now there is a hole line of them I was offered from a store $350 (Can) with LPL for what I believe what was from the tantrum series. It sounds really cool.(except when your kid pull one at Walmart for not buying his toy he wanted) It has 250 Watts RMS Modlel number 250.2 it doesn't say if it is Class D. but on the website it says 250 x 1 or 75 x 2.
Or it actually be from the Octane series. The OCTANE-R 2.5:2
80w x 2 or 250 x 1 (Brigded).
Anyhow $350 (Can) is a little High Priced for me.
So let me know where you did your online shopping and let me check it out. Because if you guys went there I am sure it is safe and that I can trust you.
I need an amp that is Class D. Like you told me to get. I need it to at least put out more then 125rms x 2 for each Subs.
Swez I am going to check out those amps you told me about on my "About to get amps Topic".
But what I really need is some good trusted site at good prices.
It is really hard to find because when i make a search so many site are available. and I am not to well informed on whats out there.
My gut tells me that names that i can trust like:
Phoenix Gold
PPI
Alpine
Autobahn (something like that but $$$$$$)
Kicker
Anyhow I just do not want to get screwed.
please let me know
see ya
uochronos on 06/6/2004 03:57:54
i have the tantrum 500.2 amplifer and it is wonderfull. a great amp. they are on the spendy side but very well built and very potent. if youw ant a phoenix gold amp for a bit cheaper they have the octane series from phoenix gold is a bit cheaper and also nice amps. since your subs are 125rms each you can get a amp a bit more powerfull too so something like 250-350watts rms well work.
swez on 06/6/2004 12:31:51
Enclosure info:
The box you mentioned with larger particles of wood chips... that's called... "PARTICLE BOARD" duhhh It is made from larger wood chips and glue, compressed and formed into wooden panels. Fine for indoor shelving and small storage bins etc. If it gets wet, it flakes and falls apart over time. Also very brittle. One good drop and the corners and edges can collapse.
MDF is the same idea, only using sawdust and fine particle sizes. Better for sub enclosures as it is more dense, handle moisture better and easy to tool & shape. Good price there for a 4' x 8' x 3/4" sheets. This board is actually a tad over size too. A bonus!
About pillow stuffing... yes, good to use on sealed sub enclosures. Can use fiberglass batting, polyfill (pillow/quilting filler) or even 25 - 36mm sponge foam materials. Helps dampen the rear bass waves that reflect off the back of the sub. Install with a staple gun.
=================================================
AMPS:
Yes, PPI, Phoenix Gold, HiFonics, Cadence, Rockford (the older ones especially), JL, JBL, Audiobahn & Kicker all make good amps. There are many more great amps out there as well.
Since you have a pair of 4 ohm subs, best to look for a Class D sub amp that nets ~300-500 watts RMS @ 2 ohm loads. Class D is very efficient with power as you get ~90% power out, VS power the amp draws. Class A/B (most 2/4 channel amps) are omly 50-60% efficient. Meaning, if is draws 100 watts, it will deliver about 60 watts to load. (subs)
If you buy a 2 channel amp like the PG Tantrum or Octane Series, you will have some limitations. Specifically, cannot bridge these amps to MONO (1 bass channel output) as they will not be stable at 2 ohm speaker loads in bridged mode.
Yes, you can run these subs in stereo. One sub to each channel, but power consumption (eff. %) will be higher and leaving SPL power on the table as well. The amp will not be workikng to full capacity this way. Plus... most 2 channels cost more as they have more circuits, filters and some have dual power supplies. Why pay for things you don't need? Again, "USE A CLASS D SUB AMP HERE" !!!
=================================================
Purchasing online is safe and you will get more bang for your buck. Just a matter of buying from reputable dealers. You don't have to enter a credit card number into your on line order either. Many sites will do the transaction over the phone. If there is a problem... you can alway contact your credit card company and freeze the charge or dispute (not pay) for things you did not order or did not get. All credit card companies have fraud protection departments to help resolve unauthorized purchases with your card.
FYI: I've had it happen before, and AMEX was great at assisting me in resolving the problems without any cost to me. Not an online purchase... but in a restaurant. Some "dirt-bag" took my CC# details, sold it to others, and they bought several hundred dollars worth of over seas phone card time with it. AMEX resolved it in short order and I did not have to pay a dime. I was well prepared with documentation, so there was no delay in taking this one off my billing.
==================================================
Possible amp choices:
1. Phoenix Gold Octane-R 5.0:1 ($320.00 USD)
http://www.cardomain.com/sku/PHOR501
Subwoofer Mono Amp Specifications:
Amplifier Type: Mono
RMS Power: 200W x 1 @ 4 ohms
THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: n/a
RMS Power: 400W x 1 @ 2 ohms
Speaker Level Inputs: No
Preamp Outputs: Yes
Built-In Crossovers: LP
Bass Boost: 0 - 15 dB
Frequency Response: 20-350 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio: >90 dB
Fuse Rating: n/a
Shipping Weight: 9 lbs
Warranty: 1 year
2. Phoenix Gold Xenon X400.1 ($350.00 USD)
http://www.cardomain.com/sku/PHOX4001
Subwoofer Mono Amp Specifications:
Amplifier Type: Mono
RMS Power: 400W x 1 @ 4 ohms
THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: n/a
RMS Power: 400W x 1 @ 2 ohms
Speaker Level Inputs: No
Preamp Outputs: Yes
Built-In Crossovers: LP
Bass Boost: 0 - 18 dB
Frequency Response: 20-300 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio: > 90 dB
Fuse Rating: 40 amps
Shipping Weight: 12 lbs
Warranty: 1 year
3. US Acoustics USB600D ($190 USD)
http://www.cardomain.com/sku/USAUSB600D
Subwoofer Mono Amp Specifications
Amplifier Type: Mono
RMS Power: 250W x 1 @ 4 Ohms
THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: <0.3%
RMS Power: 375W x 1 @ 2 Ohms
Speaker Level Inputs: No
Preamp Outputs: Yes
Built-In Crossovers: LP
Bass Boost: 0 or 10 dB
Frequency Response: n/a
Signal to Noise Ratio: >80 dB
Fuse Rating: 20 amps
Shipping Weight: 8 lbs
Warranty: 1 year
4.JBL PowerValve BP-600.1 ($220.00 USD)
http://www.cardomain.com/sku/JBLBP6001
Subwoofer Mono Amp Specifications:
Amplifier Type: Mono
RMS Power: 300W x 1 @ 4 ohms
THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: 0.1%
RMS Power: 600W x 1 @ 2 ohms
Speaker Level Inputs: Yes
Preamp Outputs: No
Built-In Crossovers: LP
Bass Boost: 0-6 dB
Frequency Response: 10-320 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio: >100 dB
Fuse Rating: 2 x 30 amps
Shipping Weight: 10.5 lbs
Warranty: 1 year
NOTE: This amp is a bit strong for your subs... but with a careful gain controll setup process, it will deliver strong bass with ultra-low distortion at 500 RMS.
5. HiFonics Warrior Merlin ($155.00 USD)
http://www.cardomain.com/sku/HIFMERLIN
Subwoofer Mono Amp Specifications
Amplifier Type: Mono
RMS Power: 200W x 1 @ 4 Ohms
THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: 0.08 %
RMS Power: 300W x 1 @ 2 ohms
Speaker Level Inputs: No
Preamp Outputs: No
Built-In Crossovers: LP
Bass Boost: 0 - 18 dB
Frequency Response: 10-150 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio: >95 dB
Fuse Rating: 2 x 25 amps
Shipping Weight: 6 lbs
Warranty: 1 year
6. HiFonics Nemesis NX750D ($280.00 USD)
http://www.cardomain.com/sku/HIFNX750D
Subwoofer Mono Amp Specifications:
Amplifier Type: Mono
RMS Power: 175W x 1 @ 4 ohms
THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: <0.08%
RMS Power: 400W x 1 @ 2 ohms
Speaker Level Inputs: No
Preamp Outputs: Yes
Built-In Crossovers: LP
Bass Boost: 0 - 18 dB
Frequency Response: 10-400 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio: >96 dB
Fuse Rating: 80 amps
Shipping Weight: 7 lbs
Warranty: 1 year
==================================================
OK, there is a pile of amps that will meet your needs. CarDomain will ship to Canada as well. There are currency exchange rates, duties and other customs charges that may apply as well. Shipping takes 7 - 14 days via ground services.
Also, CD will do a 105% price match against other web sites that sell at lower prices on items listed. Many of the amps listed will qualify for this price match is you give them details on web sites that sell for less.
Seems to me... you said a while back you live in Montreal, CAN? Do you have any friends in the US (northern NY State USA) that can take delivery and you run down and pick it up from USA? This would allow you to circumvent Customs fees, extra taxes ands duties.
Just be sure to either declare the purchase and pay duty fees or install the amp in USA, then head back to Montreal as the system is already installed. Mail all boxes, receipts and such back to your address in Montreal, so you have no documentation on hand that shows amp is new. Can even make the amp "look aged" and clean it up when you get home. (you did not hear that from me! wink)
The other option is to find any of these amps on CAN based websites. Than, all you have to deal with would be shipping and handling fees. The currency conversions are automatic and simple this way.
Comments?
Swez
0u1lowwd2 on 06/6/2004 23:20:24
Thank you Enormously. you guys are great.
Oh yeah One Question I have today.
What's the Deal with that giant capaciter I see people Buying for there Car Stereo?
I am going to check out all your suggestions.
see ya in a bit.
swez on 06/7/2004 10:09:20
Caps for sub amps act as power storage units. They are connected between the battery and sub amp. Some swear that they work great to limit/stop light dimming on heavy bass hits... but the engineers that originally (D. Navone and R. Clark) developed that concept, have recanted to say that they really don't help much.
If you have light dimming problems, a better strategy is to invest in a large CCA rated battery. Stock starter batteries are ~550-650 CCA. Using an 800+ CCA battery will be a very efficient current buffer between electricals and amps. An 800 CCA rated BAT has about 2,000,000 times the current buffering capacity of a 1.0 Farad Cap.
1 Farad Cap = a lawnmover engine (~5.0 HP)
800+ CCA battery = Nitro powered Funny Car (~5,000 HP)
Get the picture?
Swez
Well I said I was A machinist right? and I was. Problem is that I do not remmeber all the math formulas.
Luckly at work today one guy gave me the formula to calculate how big a container I got to make to hold such amount of Liquid. Well in my case it is air chamber. I figure it is the same so this is what he gave me.
L x W x H / 231"Cube=??Gallons
now 3.785l = 1 Gallon.
In my case I need a 21.2 litres 0r (this is where i am messed up) .75 ft cube. I can understand how to get my calculations for my box by knowing that i need 21,2 litres then converting it to imperial and it is 5.601 gal. in therms the box will be around 11" x 11" x 10.75" (inside) Do I Have to compensate for the space that the back of the woofer is taking. and add that in my callculation. (Sealed Enclosure)
The Outside Dimensions will be 12.5 x 12.5 x 12.25
To me that size looks small
The JL Audio Site hase the Enclosure 18" x 11" x 10.25 (Outside Dimensions) and that is = to 8.786 gallons
Now thats a differance of 3.185 gallons to me that is a lot
This is why I am wondering if the woofer is taking 3.185 gallons of space or less
if the formula he has given me works. Which should because at work we make Hydraulic Power Units and we have to calculate tank sizes all the time. So It has to work.
I still feel I need the box a bit bigger for some reason like
15 x 12.5 x 12.25
I hope you know.
This is something I really want to know and understand
I want to be able to help out other people with this after.
I know most will tell my go to the store and buy one.
That is not my goal. My goal is to do this myself and understand what I am doing Because I think a lot of sellsmen don't have a clue what they are saying Basically repeating what someone else says. and they just want you money and the product might not work. Well I am really trying to get the Dimensions perfect for each of my Subs. So that I know what I have done should work perfectly. Plus There nothing more Satisfying then hearing people say wow man sounds awsome and then ask you where did you get this done? then You say my friend and I did it. It is a great feeling.
P.S. I went to a store today and I saw a Phenix Gold Class D Amp it had 250 w RMS x1 at 4 ohms I forgot the Model Number it was going for 300$ Canadian For some reason I get this feeling that this Product is really good.
the only problem is My JL Audio 10W04 are 125rms each.
Does that mean I would have to run My Amp. at full power all the time? I feel it is like I would have to have the Preddle to the meddle all the time to enjoy my car. please explain on thi one.
Replies (7)
uochronos on 06/4/2004 01:26:31
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t22
swez on 06/4/2004 08:44:47
The JL website offers a very good tuitorial on enclosure designs for their subs. If you follow their guidelines, a very good box is going to come out of it. However, if the box shape does not fit your space well, adjusting a few parameters will still net excellent bass.
Yes, there is a "fudge factor" and there is no perfect sub or enclosure design. But with a little background information in that FAQ noted above, you'll have a better understanding of the parameters required to make a great enclosure. As for calculating air space, we are looking at the "Volume/Area" of the enclosure for air space needed. When converting liters tcubic feet, use 1 liter = 0.035 cubic ft. One cubic foot = 28.32 liters. A shortcut math notation... 1.0 ft^3 = 28.32 l.
That PG amp is probably a very good choice for your subs if a Class D amp and 2 ohms stable. Can you get the model number? Will check it out and let you know if it is well suited to your subs. As for power ratings on the amp and subs... these JL's are conservatively rated at 125 RMS/sub. They can take take 200+ RMS and still be fine. Past 250 per sub, heading for a sub meltdown.
Amping power and sub choices are alot like a car engine and drive train. Just because a given engine can produce 500 HP and 475 ft. lbs of torque (@ 5500 RPM), does not mean we drive it to the red line all the time right? Sure nuff not!!! The engine will perform fine at 2,500 RPM, but will have plenty of reserve power when we hit the throttle.
Same idea applies to amps and subs. They perform well in a range of power settings. Yes, they can idle well or take a fast start from Zero to 130 dB in a few milli-seconds. But for normal everyday listening... they can cruise along just fine at a fraction of the power available... NO PROBLEM! Actually, it is better to buy an amp with more RMS power than the subs are rated for. When the amp is set up properly, very little distortion comes from the amp, going out to the subs. A clean 200 RMS to each sub, is better than 125 watts of "dirty power" (high
distortion content) because the amp is straining too hard to meet the demands from the idiot at the wheel. (volume control) When the amp is straining, the subs will get stressed and something will eventually give out. Usually the subs blow.
Oh, when calculating internal air volume of an enclosure, you do have to take account of the sub displacement, internal divider board and port displacements as well. (if using a ported enclosure)
Hope that helps, HAPPY
Swez
NOTES:
1. General specs on 10W04:
http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/10w0.html
2. Install manual w/ enclosure specs:
http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/pdfs/10_12_15W0_MAN.pdf
0u1lowwd2 on 06/6/2004 03:02:00
Hey Swez and Uochronos.
I did go to the JL Audio SItes and Download all info possible so in conlusion here is my decision.
Ok it is done I am making two seperate enclosure to spec. They will be 12.5" x 12.5" x 12.25" this is equale to 21 litres, from my calculations but i might just do 14" x 12.5" x 12.2 5" using 3/4" mdf.
The Enclosure I have Is not MDF Material. I forgot the name of it. it is like wood chips all clued and compressed together. I heard that it could blow up so forget about it. It will go back as a Telephone stand As it was for the last 3 years. Only this time i will gutt it out and make shelvings then cover it with something a a little livingroomish.
Anyhow What made me decide is that the MDF 3/4" 8' x 4" was only $24.00 (Can) cheap enough for me.
Now I have some Questions.
Inside the enclosure Do I have to put that Pillow stuffing Stuff? What is it called again?
Is there anything else that I can put.?
(After this, the subject on enclosures with me, should be closed forever)
Now for the Amp, looking at the other topics I see that you like to really convince people to buy online. I am nervouse about thios with all the spy-ware and stuff. I would like to know where I can get an amp for a good price. I will risk It no problem.
As you know I have 2 10" JL Audio series 10W04. 125W RMS each. 250W Max.
They will go in a Trunk (obviously) of A VW Jetta III Gen. As you know it is a big trunk for a campact car.
Now I was Told THat Phoenix Gold is really good. Now there is a hole line of them I was offered from a store $350 (Can) with LPL for what I believe what was from the tantrum series. It sounds really cool.(except when your kid pull one at Walmart for not buying his toy he wanted) It has 250 Watts RMS Modlel number 250.2 it doesn't say if it is Class D. but on the website it says 250 x 1 or 75 x 2.
Or it actually be from the Octane series. The OCTANE-R 2.5:2
80w x 2 or 250 x 1 (Brigded).
Anyhow $350 (Can) is a little High Priced for me.
So let me know where you did your online shopping and let me check it out. Because if you guys went there I am sure it is safe and that I can trust you.
I need an amp that is Class D. Like you told me to get. I need it to at least put out more then 125rms x 2 for each Subs.
Swez I am going to check out those amps you told me about on my "About to get amps Topic".
But what I really need is some good trusted site at good prices.
It is really hard to find because when i make a search so many site are available. and I am not to well informed on whats out there.
My gut tells me that names that i can trust like:
Phoenix Gold
PPI
Alpine
Autobahn (something like that but $$$$$$)
Kicker
Anyhow I just do not want to get screwed.
please let me know
see ya
uochronos on 06/6/2004 03:57:54
i have the tantrum 500.2 amplifer and it is wonderfull. a great amp. they are on the spendy side but very well built and very potent. if youw ant a phoenix gold amp for a bit cheaper they have the octane series from phoenix gold is a bit cheaper and also nice amps. since your subs are 125rms each you can get a amp a bit more powerfull too so something like 250-350watts rms well work.
swez on 06/6/2004 12:31:51
Enclosure info:
The box you mentioned with larger particles of wood chips... that's called... "PARTICLE BOARD" duhhh It is made from larger wood chips and glue, compressed and formed into wooden panels. Fine for indoor shelving and small storage bins etc. If it gets wet, it flakes and falls apart over time. Also very brittle. One good drop and the corners and edges can collapse.
MDF is the same idea, only using sawdust and fine particle sizes. Better for sub enclosures as it is more dense, handle moisture better and easy to tool & shape. Good price there for a 4' x 8' x 3/4" sheets. This board is actually a tad over size too. A bonus!
About pillow stuffing... yes, good to use on sealed sub enclosures. Can use fiberglass batting, polyfill (pillow/quilting filler) or even 25 - 36mm sponge foam materials. Helps dampen the rear bass waves that reflect off the back of the sub. Install with a staple gun.
=================================================
AMPS:
Yes, PPI, Phoenix Gold, HiFonics, Cadence, Rockford (the older ones especially), JL, JBL, Audiobahn & Kicker all make good amps. There are many more great amps out there as well.
Since you have a pair of 4 ohm subs, best to look for a Class D sub amp that nets ~300-500 watts RMS @ 2 ohm loads. Class D is very efficient with power as you get ~90% power out, VS power the amp draws. Class A/B (most 2/4 channel amps) are omly 50-60% efficient. Meaning, if is draws 100 watts, it will deliver about 60 watts to load. (subs)
If you buy a 2 channel amp like the PG Tantrum or Octane Series, you will have some limitations. Specifically, cannot bridge these amps to MONO (1 bass channel output) as they will not be stable at 2 ohm speaker loads in bridged mode.
Yes, you can run these subs in stereo. One sub to each channel, but power consumption (eff. %) will be higher and leaving SPL power on the table as well. The amp will not be workikng to full capacity this way. Plus... most 2 channels cost more as they have more circuits, filters and some have dual power supplies. Why pay for things you don't need? Again, "USE A CLASS D SUB AMP HERE" !!!
=================================================
Purchasing online is safe and you will get more bang for your buck. Just a matter of buying from reputable dealers. You don't have to enter a credit card number into your on line order either. Many sites will do the transaction over the phone. If there is a problem... you can alway contact your credit card company and freeze the charge or dispute (not pay) for things you did not order or did not get. All credit card companies have fraud protection departments to help resolve unauthorized purchases with your card.
FYI: I've had it happen before, and AMEX was great at assisting me in resolving the problems without any cost to me. Not an online purchase... but in a restaurant. Some "dirt-bag" took my CC# details, sold it to others, and they bought several hundred dollars worth of over seas phone card time with it. AMEX resolved it in short order and I did not have to pay a dime. I was well prepared with documentation, so there was no delay in taking this one off my billing.
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Possible amp choices:
1. Phoenix Gold Octane-R 5.0:1 ($320.00 USD)
http://www.cardomain.com/sku/PHOR501
Subwoofer Mono Amp Specifications:
Amplifier Type: Mono
RMS Power: 200W x 1 @ 4 ohms
THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: n/a
RMS Power: 400W x 1 @ 2 ohms
Speaker Level Inputs: No
Preamp Outputs: Yes
Built-In Crossovers: LP
Bass Boost: 0 - 15 dB
Frequency Response: 20-350 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio: >90 dB
Fuse Rating: n/a
Shipping Weight: 9 lbs
Warranty: 1 year
2. Phoenix Gold Xenon X400.1 ($350.00 USD)
http://www.cardomain.com/sku/PHOX4001
Subwoofer Mono Amp Specifications:
Amplifier Type: Mono
RMS Power: 400W x 1 @ 4 ohms
THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: n/a
RMS Power: 400W x 1 @ 2 ohms
Speaker Level Inputs: No
Preamp Outputs: Yes
Built-In Crossovers: LP
Bass Boost: 0 - 18 dB
Frequency Response: 20-300 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio: > 90 dB
Fuse Rating: 40 amps
Shipping Weight: 12 lbs
Warranty: 1 year
3. US Acoustics USB600D ($190 USD)
http://www.cardomain.com/sku/USAUSB600D
Subwoofer Mono Amp Specifications
Amplifier Type: Mono
RMS Power: 250W x 1 @ 4 Ohms
THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: <0.3%
RMS Power: 375W x 1 @ 2 Ohms
Speaker Level Inputs: No
Preamp Outputs: Yes
Built-In Crossovers: LP
Bass Boost: 0 or 10 dB
Frequency Response: n/a
Signal to Noise Ratio: >80 dB
Fuse Rating: 20 amps
Shipping Weight: 8 lbs
Warranty: 1 year
4.JBL PowerValve BP-600.1 ($220.00 USD)
http://www.cardomain.com/sku/JBLBP6001
Subwoofer Mono Amp Specifications:
Amplifier Type: Mono
RMS Power: 300W x 1 @ 4 ohms
THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: 0.1%
RMS Power: 600W x 1 @ 2 ohms
Speaker Level Inputs: Yes
Preamp Outputs: No
Built-In Crossovers: LP
Bass Boost: 0-6 dB
Frequency Response: 10-320 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio: >100 dB
Fuse Rating: 2 x 30 amps
Shipping Weight: 10.5 lbs
Warranty: 1 year
NOTE: This amp is a bit strong for your subs... but with a careful gain controll setup process, it will deliver strong bass with ultra-low distortion at 500 RMS.
5. HiFonics Warrior Merlin ($155.00 USD)
http://www.cardomain.com/sku/HIFMERLIN
Subwoofer Mono Amp Specifications
Amplifier Type: Mono
RMS Power: 200W x 1 @ 4 Ohms
THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: 0.08 %
RMS Power: 300W x 1 @ 2 ohms
Speaker Level Inputs: No
Preamp Outputs: No
Built-In Crossovers: LP
Bass Boost: 0 - 18 dB
Frequency Response: 10-150 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio: >95 dB
Fuse Rating: 2 x 25 amps
Shipping Weight: 6 lbs
Warranty: 1 year
6. HiFonics Nemesis NX750D ($280.00 USD)
http://www.cardomain.com/sku/HIFNX750D
Subwoofer Mono Amp Specifications:
Amplifier Type: Mono
RMS Power: 175W x 1 @ 4 ohms
THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: <0.08%
RMS Power: 400W x 1 @ 2 ohms
Speaker Level Inputs: No
Preamp Outputs: Yes
Built-In Crossovers: LP
Bass Boost: 0 - 18 dB
Frequency Response: 10-400 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio: >96 dB
Fuse Rating: 80 amps
Shipping Weight: 7 lbs
Warranty: 1 year
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OK, there is a pile of amps that will meet your needs. CarDomain will ship to Canada as well. There are currency exchange rates, duties and other customs charges that may apply as well. Shipping takes 7 - 14 days via ground services.
Also, CD will do a 105% price match against other web sites that sell at lower prices on items listed. Many of the amps listed will qualify for this price match is you give them details on web sites that sell for less.
Seems to me... you said a while back you live in Montreal, CAN? Do you have any friends in the US (northern NY State USA) that can take delivery and you run down and pick it up from USA? This would allow you to circumvent Customs fees, extra taxes ands duties.
Just be sure to either declare the purchase and pay duty fees or install the amp in USA, then head back to Montreal as the system is already installed. Mail all boxes, receipts and such back to your address in Montreal, so you have no documentation on hand that shows amp is new. Can even make the amp "look aged" and clean it up when you get home. (you did not hear that from me! wink)
The other option is to find any of these amps on CAN based websites. Than, all you have to deal with would be shipping and handling fees. The currency conversions are automatic and simple this way.
Comments?
Swez
0u1lowwd2 on 06/6/2004 23:20:24
Thank you Enormously. you guys are great.
Oh yeah One Question I have today.
What's the Deal with that giant capaciter I see people Buying for there Car Stereo?
I am going to check out all your suggestions.
see ya in a bit.
swez on 06/7/2004 10:09:20
Caps for sub amps act as power storage units. They are connected between the battery and sub amp. Some swear that they work great to limit/stop light dimming on heavy bass hits... but the engineers that originally (D. Navone and R. Clark) developed that concept, have recanted to say that they really don't help much.
If you have light dimming problems, a better strategy is to invest in a large CCA rated battery. Stock starter batteries are ~550-650 CCA. Using an 800+ CCA battery will be a very efficient current buffer between electricals and amps. An 800 CCA rated BAT has about 2,000,000 times the current buffering capacity of a 1.0 Farad Cap.
1 Farad Cap = a lawnmover engine (~5.0 HP)
800+ CCA battery = Nitro powered Funny Car (~5,000 HP)
Get the picture?
Swez
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