okay bought new alternator putting out 166 peak amps 12 volts. 8 6 cutlas supreme v8 307 4 barrel car 5.0 litler. replaced belt and plug that plugs into alternator. had both batteries charged fully. went to drive inn theater, watched one movie car barley started got home tried to start car again and battery dead. the guys at autozone said i had an electrical problem everything looks good though tested all wires except one that runs to ignition. some tests on alt showed no output, some showed very little amps (1.5-3.5). Any ideas? System not the problem nor is radio. Charge light now comes on when i turn steering wheel fully to either side.
Replies (12)
pmpn8ez on 06/2/2004 00:48:58
How are you testing the Ampre output? I would double test the battery because if your battery is not capable of holding a charge is doesn't matter how many Amps you're putting into it. If the battery is good try disconnecting components one at a time to see. oh, one last question...kinda dumb, but is your amps remote wire connected to the iggnition or HU? Just wanna make sure your AMP isn't always on.
netrecov on 06/2/2004 00:52:25
stereo autozone tests alternator for me i have learned how to read them
pmpn8ez on 06/2/2004 00:58:55
The amp is off when the car is off?
netrecov on 06/2/2004 01:02:13
yes, plus where can i find a free wiring diadram of my car's electrica system?
pmpn8ez on 06/2/2004 01:07:36
LOL, good luck there. Picking up a Chiltons or Haynes is your best bet
uochronos on 06/2/2004 01:51:34
even chiltons or haynes arent 100% factotry to factory and year to year little things change alot so its never 100%... i think the most likly cuase here is a bad batery or bad wires to the batery somewhere.
ttocs on 06/2/2004 11:24:19
that manual will not help you with an aftermarket alt however. You might want to hook up a amp meter to the battery(in series) and pull fuses one by one to see if there is a current draw, and if it drops when certain fuses are pulled. The fuses will point you in the right direction as to what is the problem.
swez on 06/2/2004 12:31:45
When lead/acid batteries dischage a few times, they often fail shortly thereafter. These batteries are not very good at multiple full discharges as the plates tend to short out. Have both batteries tested at AZ as well as ALT output check. If one battery is good, but other is dying, that will discharge both batteries in time as well.
As mentioned earlier, you may have a short or constant (hidden) load draw on the batteries, even with key off and out. Could be a device or two, that is drawing power or a short in ignition switch at the steering column. That's a tough one to track down and repair.
Diagnose as ttocks mentioned... read the battery voltage w/ engine off and have a helper read the meter as fuses are pulled. (one at a time) The circuit that is drawing current will show up when fuse is pulled as battery voltage will usually jump up a few points of a volt, if not more.
Free diagrams... YES, a good Library will often have repair manuals (Chilton's or Hayes) donated to them and you can go there, read and copy pages as needed.
Swez
netrecov on 06/17/2004 18:05:24
okay got wiring diagram and started working on it nothing is pulling power when car is off but it seems like my car is driving off the battery. supposed to be running at 13.5-14.5 but car is running at 12.2. i have disconnected just about everything but still can find the draw. any ideas?
swez on 06/17/2004 23:30:56
Hummm, measure the BAT voltage with car off, then with key in ACC/IGN position and finally, start the car and measure the voltage at the battery terminals.
1. BAT only will read (12.2 -12.5) volts DC is normal
2. With key in ACC/IGN, voltage readings may drop a few points (11.5 -12.0 volts) is normal
3. Start engine and read voltage again with motor running. It should be well above 13.0 volts, but less than 15.0 volts. If readings are less that these figures, charging system or wiring between ALT/BAT & poor ground are things to look for.
I would look very closely at the grounding wire that goes from BAT to body and grounding strap that goes from engine block to body. If either are badly rusted or corroded, clean or replace them.
Good luck and keep us posted OK?
Swez
ttocs on 06/18/2004 05:57:51
I don't think we ever asked how old the batter is did we? Also, where do you live? The climate here in pheonix severly lowers the life expectancy of batteries....
swez on 06/18/2004 11:43:48
Same issues in colder climates as well. Can usually expect 3-4 Winters from an average battery. If you get more than that... living on borrowed cell energy time.
Also, if you live in a hot climate (as ttocs mentioned) battery life can be shortened if the fluid levels drop due to evaporation. Older battery styles used to have removable caps so you can add "DISTILLED WATER" to them and top them off. If over-filled, may get some leakage until the cell reservoirs equalize.
Swez
PS How old are/is, these/this, batteries/battery?
Replies (12)
pmpn8ez on 06/2/2004 00:48:58
How are you testing the Ampre output? I would double test the battery because if your battery is not capable of holding a charge is doesn't matter how many Amps you're putting into it. If the battery is good try disconnecting components one at a time to see. oh, one last question...kinda dumb, but is your amps remote wire connected to the iggnition or HU? Just wanna make sure your AMP isn't always on.
netrecov on 06/2/2004 00:52:25
stereo autozone tests alternator for me i have learned how to read them
pmpn8ez on 06/2/2004 00:58:55
The amp is off when the car is off?
netrecov on 06/2/2004 01:02:13
yes, plus where can i find a free wiring diadram of my car's electrica system?
pmpn8ez on 06/2/2004 01:07:36
LOL, good luck there. Picking up a Chiltons or Haynes is your best bet
uochronos on 06/2/2004 01:51:34
even chiltons or haynes arent 100% factotry to factory and year to year little things change alot so its never 100%... i think the most likly cuase here is a bad batery or bad wires to the batery somewhere.
ttocs on 06/2/2004 11:24:19
that manual will not help you with an aftermarket alt however. You might want to hook up a amp meter to the battery(in series) and pull fuses one by one to see if there is a current draw, and if it drops when certain fuses are pulled. The fuses will point you in the right direction as to what is the problem.
swez on 06/2/2004 12:31:45
When lead/acid batteries dischage a few times, they often fail shortly thereafter. These batteries are not very good at multiple full discharges as the plates tend to short out. Have both batteries tested at AZ as well as ALT output check. If one battery is good, but other is dying, that will discharge both batteries in time as well.
As mentioned earlier, you may have a short or constant (hidden) load draw on the batteries, even with key off and out. Could be a device or two, that is drawing power or a short in ignition switch at the steering column. That's a tough one to track down and repair.
Diagnose as ttocks mentioned... read the battery voltage w/ engine off and have a helper read the meter as fuses are pulled. (one at a time) The circuit that is drawing current will show up when fuse is pulled as battery voltage will usually jump up a few points of a volt, if not more.
Free diagrams... YES, a good Library will often have repair manuals (Chilton's or Hayes) donated to them and you can go there, read and copy pages as needed.
Swez
netrecov on 06/17/2004 18:05:24
okay got wiring diagram and started working on it nothing is pulling power when car is off but it seems like my car is driving off the battery. supposed to be running at 13.5-14.5 but car is running at 12.2. i have disconnected just about everything but still can find the draw. any ideas?
swez on 06/17/2004 23:30:56
Hummm, measure the BAT voltage with car off, then with key in ACC/IGN position and finally, start the car and measure the voltage at the battery terminals.
1. BAT only will read (12.2 -12.5) volts DC is normal
2. With key in ACC/IGN, voltage readings may drop a few points (11.5 -12.0 volts) is normal
3. Start engine and read voltage again with motor running. It should be well above 13.0 volts, but less than 15.0 volts. If readings are less that these figures, charging system or wiring between ALT/BAT & poor ground are things to look for.
I would look very closely at the grounding wire that goes from BAT to body and grounding strap that goes from engine block to body. If either are badly rusted or corroded, clean or replace them.
Good luck and keep us posted OK?
Swez
ttocs on 06/18/2004 05:57:51
I don't think we ever asked how old the batter is did we? Also, where do you live? The climate here in pheonix severly lowers the life expectancy of batteries....
swez on 06/18/2004 11:43:48
Same issues in colder climates as well. Can usually expect 3-4 Winters from an average battery. If you get more than that... living on borrowed cell energy time.
Also, if you live in a hot climate (as ttocs mentioned) battery life can be shortened if the fluid levels drop due to evaporation. Older battery styles used to have removable caps so you can add "DISTILLED WATER" to them and top them off. If over-filled, may get some leakage until the cell reservoirs equalize.
Swez
PS How old are/is, these/this, batteries/battery?
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