I have a phoenix gold zx500 and 2 xmax 12's. I'm installing them in my grand prix. My question is: How do i hook the amp to the head unit? There are no rca outputs in the factory head unit. Thanks for the help.
JD
Replies (7)
s2003_redman on 05/21/2003 22:20:42
use the high output adapter that came with your amp.
Swez on 05/22/2003 11:55:50
Yep, that's the easiest way.... just tap some wires off your rear speakers, and feed them into the high signal adapter plug of that amp.
If that amp does not have this adapter/feature, get a Line out Convertor (LOC) with one side connecting to rear speakers, and has RCA outputs for your amp. Try to get an LOC that has adjustable gain controls for L&R channel. Not too expensive at most any good car audio shops.
Swez
ttocs on 05/22/2003 11:57:52
there should be a section on the amp marked, "high level input". This allows you to run speaker wire from the amp, to one of the sets of speakers. You could also purchase a line out converter(loc) if you want to try and get a little better sound.
Good choice on the equipment. The shop that I spent the majority of my time at was a PG dealer, and I did alot of systems with those very componants. Just curious, check the amp on the top behind the model number and see if it says V1, or V2. They had a problem with the original runs of those amps and had to do a mod to fix them. If it has been done it will say V2 on it.
We had an old 12" x-max in the sound board at that shop that had seen better days. We decided that we would blow it and send it back. We used the zx500 amp, gained all the way up, along with all the bass turned up as well. We blasted that thing for almost 3 hrs one night. The room smelled, and the duscap of the speaker was very warm... The speaker never did quit working...
dirtyknight71 on 05/22/2003 13:52:35
Thanks for the help everyone. I'm gonna go try to hook it up this afternoon. Another quick question, where can i hook up the trigger wire for the amp? ttocs, the shop i bought my x-max's at tried some similar tests and never succeeded in blowing the speaker. The guy even started kicking it but it never faltered. Thanks again.
jd
ttocs on 05/22/2003 15:34:58
we beat the heck out of that thing with no evail... the room smelled like it was toast and it just kept on playing! I could definitly own a set...
For the remote wire, you can use a +12v ignition wire. This wire will be on with the key. In most GM cars you can find a spot at the fuseblock marked "ign". Many other cars have similar features. What size pwr wire are you going to use. That amp can draw some juice.
dirtyknight71 on 05/23/2003 10:42:40
Thanks, I've got everything installed so far but the speakers arent playing. The amp comes on when the car starts. I used a LOC with one side connected to the rear speakers and the other connected to the amp via rca cables. Not exactly sure what the problem is. Any suggestions?
8 gauge wire for the power.
jd
Swez on 05/23/2003 17:12:58
There are a few things to check:
1. Make sure the amp gains are set properly
2. Be sure you have a working amp & subs
3. Getting output from LOC to amp?
How to:
Setting the amp gains are easy ... they are generally clearly marked and there is one for each channel. Set the amp gains to mid point for now.
To check the amp and subs:
Get out your Walkman or similar audio source with a headphone jack plug on one end and RCA wires on the other. These adapters are available at Radio Shack, BB & CC. (Converts 3.5mm headphone jack to 2 RCA's)
Turn on your Walkman, drop in a CD or tape ....set the volume knob to ~50% of max and plug the adapter RCA's into your amp inputs. Start the car and listen to the subs.... do you hear any music now?
If yes, then dial up the Walkman and amp gains to get the subs bumping. See what you got... within reason. This means your amp and subs are working, but the LOC signal is not getting through to the amp... recheck your wiring connections from rear speakers, LOC
and RCA's.
If still no sound, either the amp has a problem or the subs are not working.
Testing the subs:
Easy to test subs by plugging them into a known good audio amplifier. If you get sound this way, then the subs are probably OK. If you get no sound from subs, may have a problem there. Have to dig deeper to test subs.
To test the amp:
Same Walkman input process as before, only use a known good speaker, connected to the output section of the amp. Go easy on the gain settings of the amp (set to ~10-20% of max gain) so you don't damage a low powered speaker. Any sound this time?
If YES, the amp is probably OK. If NO... amp may have problems!
Finally, if amp and subs check out OK per tests noted above, remove the LOC from rear speakers and run tap wires from each rear speaker, to the high signal input pigtail in the amp. Do you have sound now? If yes, your LOC was not installed properly or incompatible with your present set up.
Question for you, what is the fuse rating on the amp used? If less than 50A. total, the #8 gage is fine for both power and ground. If the amp has larger fuse ratings... then #8 may not be large enough to carry required current to amp.
Here's a guide to wire gage VS power of amplifier:
2 awg 210 amps 1740 watts
4 awg 132 amps 1096 watts
6 awg 83.4 amps 690 watts
8 awg 52.5 amps 435 watts
Good luck on the troubleshooting phase of this install.... let us know how you make out OK?
Swez COFFEE
JD
Replies (7)
s2003_redman on 05/21/2003 22:20:42
use the high output adapter that came with your amp.
Swez on 05/22/2003 11:55:50
Yep, that's the easiest way.... just tap some wires off your rear speakers, and feed them into the high signal adapter plug of that amp.
If that amp does not have this adapter/feature, get a Line out Convertor (LOC) with one side connecting to rear speakers, and has RCA outputs for your amp. Try to get an LOC that has adjustable gain controls for L&R channel. Not too expensive at most any good car audio shops.
Swez
ttocs on 05/22/2003 11:57:52
there should be a section on the amp marked, "high level input". This allows you to run speaker wire from the amp, to one of the sets of speakers. You could also purchase a line out converter(loc) if you want to try and get a little better sound.
Good choice on the equipment. The shop that I spent the majority of my time at was a PG dealer, and I did alot of systems with those very componants. Just curious, check the amp on the top behind the model number and see if it says V1, or V2. They had a problem with the original runs of those amps and had to do a mod to fix them. If it has been done it will say V2 on it.
We had an old 12" x-max in the sound board at that shop that had seen better days. We decided that we would blow it and send it back. We used the zx500 amp, gained all the way up, along with all the bass turned up as well. We blasted that thing for almost 3 hrs one night. The room smelled, and the duscap of the speaker was very warm... The speaker never did quit working...
dirtyknight71 on 05/22/2003 13:52:35
Thanks for the help everyone. I'm gonna go try to hook it up this afternoon. Another quick question, where can i hook up the trigger wire for the amp? ttocs, the shop i bought my x-max's at tried some similar tests and never succeeded in blowing the speaker. The guy even started kicking it but it never faltered. Thanks again.
jd
ttocs on 05/22/2003 15:34:58
we beat the heck out of that thing with no evail... the room smelled like it was toast and it just kept on playing! I could definitly own a set...
For the remote wire, you can use a +12v ignition wire. This wire will be on with the key. In most GM cars you can find a spot at the fuseblock marked "ign". Many other cars have similar features. What size pwr wire are you going to use. That amp can draw some juice.
dirtyknight71 on 05/23/2003 10:42:40
Thanks, I've got everything installed so far but the speakers arent playing. The amp comes on when the car starts. I used a LOC with one side connected to the rear speakers and the other connected to the amp via rca cables. Not exactly sure what the problem is. Any suggestions?
8 gauge wire for the power.
jd
Swez on 05/23/2003 17:12:58
There are a few things to check:
1. Make sure the amp gains are set properly
2. Be sure you have a working amp & subs
3. Getting output from LOC to amp?
How to:
Setting the amp gains are easy ... they are generally clearly marked and there is one for each channel. Set the amp gains to mid point for now.
To check the amp and subs:
Get out your Walkman or similar audio source with a headphone jack plug on one end and RCA wires on the other. These adapters are available at Radio Shack, BB & CC. (Converts 3.5mm headphone jack to 2 RCA's)
Turn on your Walkman, drop in a CD or tape ....set the volume knob to ~50% of max and plug the adapter RCA's into your amp inputs. Start the car and listen to the subs.... do you hear any music now?
If yes, then dial up the Walkman and amp gains to get the subs bumping. See what you got... within reason. This means your amp and subs are working, but the LOC signal is not getting through to the amp... recheck your wiring connections from rear speakers, LOC
and RCA's.
If still no sound, either the amp has a problem or the subs are not working.
Testing the subs:
Easy to test subs by plugging them into a known good audio amplifier. If you get sound this way, then the subs are probably OK. If you get no sound from subs, may have a problem there. Have to dig deeper to test subs.
To test the amp:
Same Walkman input process as before, only use a known good speaker, connected to the output section of the amp. Go easy on the gain settings of the amp (set to ~10-20% of max gain) so you don't damage a low powered speaker. Any sound this time?
If YES, the amp is probably OK. If NO... amp may have problems!
Finally, if amp and subs check out OK per tests noted above, remove the LOC from rear speakers and run tap wires from each rear speaker, to the high signal input pigtail in the amp. Do you have sound now? If yes, your LOC was not installed properly or incompatible with your present set up.
Question for you, what is the fuse rating on the amp used? If less than 50A. total, the #8 gage is fine for both power and ground. If the amp has larger fuse ratings... then #8 may not be large enough to carry required current to amp.
Here's a guide to wire gage VS power of amplifier:
2 awg 210 amps 1740 watts
4 awg 132 amps 1096 watts
6 awg 83.4 amps 690 watts
8 awg 52.5 amps 435 watts
Good luck on the troubleshooting phase of this install.... let us know how you make out OK?
Swez COFFEE
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