Someone on a cell phone not paying attention destroyed my car so im faced with transferring my old setup into my new car. Ive suffered through several professional installs that were not done right. Ive done a little of my own installation back in the stone age and I come for advise from those with much more knowledge than me. I plan on doing this over the weekend.
Car: 2001 Subaru Outback Limited
Current Stereo Installed: premium stock w/CD, stock subwoofer under seat 61/2" speakers in each of the door kickpanels. 2 little factory tweat/mid in the front window framing either side.
System parts to transfer from old car: Alpine 7894 HU, 2x61/2" Alpine Pro Series, Alpine 200W 2/4 channel amp
Goal: Im a 75/25 (quality over thump). Im willing to spend up to $500-600 additional cash to complete the system with me doing the install and buying parts on-line or local.
My thoughts:
I plan on adding an amplified subwoofer in the back attached to the back of the rear seat. Its an open wagon with plenty of space but I would like to keep it as compact as possible. I was thinking the 10" bazooka powered Sub strapped on. A local shop had them for $250.brI plan on buying 2 more 61/2" speakers to go in the doors.brI plan on using the 200W alpine amp to power the 4 61/2" speakers and the 2 tweats up front. I plan on using the pre-outs from the alpine HU for the 4 channels and the sub pre-out to the sub.
Questions:
Given the existing parts, car and budget any recommendations on the sub & speakers brand etc. is welcome or alternative ideas on how to do it. The depth of the doors is not great so it would prob need to be shallow type speakers. Im not even sure if my Alpines will fit yet (hope).
Since I plan on installing this myself what install kit do I need and where can I get one on-line to cover the space where the stock stereo is coming out from.brWhat gauge wire should I run to the dist for power from the Alpine & Sub amp #4 or #8? Do I need to make a run for each or do I run a #4 from the dist to the dash then #8 to each of the amps?
I feel I can get the stereo in and the speakers in and the wires to the amp but im a little worried about the wiring of the amp to the battery and running the speaker wire into the panels.brIm concerned about how to crossover the small tweats in the window frame with the 61/2" in the front door panels.
Not sure where I will mount the amp. Havent figured out if there is enough space under the seat but expect that there is certainly could attach to the back seat as well.
Any advise about correct way to do the wiring or specifics on wiring a Subaru Outback would be very helpful. I read all the brownstone articles in the FAQ which were great but im looking for a little more detail on my specific car and stereo setup.brThis forum is wonderful ill continue to dig around for more info and any responses are greatly appreciated.
Taj
Replies (3)
swez on 05/12/2004 18:19:58
The 6.5's in the doors make for a clean install if they will fit. If the magnets get in the way of mechanics such as windows, can always us a 1" trim ring to pull them out, away from the mechanicals.
That Alpine amp... which one do you have here? (Model #)
As for a nice, compact sub system, have you considered the Infinity Basslink system? A 200 watt amp, 10" sub and passive radiator in a nice, compact yet potent enough package. I did see it on the web for under $250.00
http://www.techronics.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_id=807&aff=45847 $239.00
When using 2 amps, best to run your main power feed line from BAT (Pos) to back area where amps are located and use a Distribution Block to split power for each amp. Ground both amps in same location to bare metal ground. You will also need a fuse on that line, close to the battery. Depending on the wire gage used, 50 or 80 ampere fuse is good.
Wire gage to use depends on amps used. A #8 wire is good up to 50 amperes of current. The Infinity Basslink requires a 25 amp fuse. Depending on the other amp used, you might just get by with #8, but a #6 or #4 would be a better choice if you think you might upgrade later.
As for mounting your Alpine HU, I'll leave that one open to one of our installers to answer.
Hope that gets you started,
Swez
Taj on 05/12/2004 19:14:57
Thanks for the reply Swez
Alpine MRP-F200
Alpine 200W 4-ch Amplifier
4/3/2 Channel V-Power Series Amplifier 40W x 4 @ 4 ohms - 14.4V 50W x 4 @ 2 ohms - 14.4V 100W x 2 @ 4 ohms - 14.4V Bass Boost 18dB HP/LP (80Hz) Crossover 4 Volt Input MOSFET Power
Think it would be a good idea to invest in a better amp for the 4x61/2 and use the alpine for the sub?
I used the 1" trim rings on the speakers when they were in my old car but im not sure the rings will fit behind the grills on the new car. I will try that out if they are too deep. Any recommendations on a good pair of 61/2 speakers that are on the slim side? If they are able to fit should I just buy another pair of the Alpine Pro's. The 61/2's I have are the Alpine SPR-174A's.
How big of a deal is it to ground both amps in the same location? I was going to ground the amp I put under the front seat on the front seatbelt bolt and the one I put behind the back seat on the back seatbelt bolt.
How big of a deal is it to run power down the same side panel as sheilded RCA. I seem to read conflicting reports. Is there a good shielded wire to by or a kit I could buy thats out there on line that people recommend for the wire?
Thanks again.
swez on 05/13/2004 09:18:01
As for a Primo 6.5 Comp set, many here are trying the CDT CL-61a off Zeb. At $150.00 a pair this is an amazing price for high SQL full range system. I believe they are under 3" deep on the woofer.
Look: http://www.thezeb.com/detail.aspx?ID=1083
As for amps, the Alpine noted will do, but really a very modest amp in all. If you bridged it down to a 2 channel and powered your front speakers, (or sub) that will work pretty well.
As for rear channel speakers, you can still use your coaxials... a brand of your choice and either run them off the HU amplifers (rear channels) or get a modest 2 channel amp to power same, than add your powered sub in rear cargo area.
Another option... use the Alpine 2 channel in bridged mode to power a 4+4 DVC sub. It's a clean sounding amp... not too much power, so a single 10" DVC is adequate. Then add a more potent 4 channel to driver the full range speakers. For under $200.00, the USB-4085 delivers 85 RMS x 4 @ 4 ohms. May have to do a "google search" for them. Getting harder to find them online.
Look: http://www.usacoustics.com/2004/usb4085%20specs.htm
As for running power line and RCA's on the same rails... best not to do that as noise for inside the car or engine can easily be picked up by signal cables if too close to power and speaker lines. This is especially true on HU's that have very low output voltages through the RCA outs. Some get by with it... but if you had to spend hours tracking down noise problems and move the wires in the end, is it worth the gamble? Best to do it right the first time.
Finally, when using multiple amps, best to use a common grounding point in the vehicle for all amps and signal processors in the audio chain. This prevents noise and ground loop problems that often arise from using multiple grounding points.
When you install your HU, make sure your ground is to a bare metal (like floor pan) as the harness grounds are not always the best location. The harness ground may be noisy or lead to ground loop problems if used.
Swez
Car: 2001 Subaru Outback Limited
Current Stereo Installed: premium stock w/CD, stock subwoofer under seat 61/2" speakers in each of the door kickpanels. 2 little factory tweat/mid in the front window framing either side.
System parts to transfer from old car: Alpine 7894 HU, 2x61/2" Alpine Pro Series, Alpine 200W 2/4 channel amp
Goal: Im a 75/25 (quality over thump). Im willing to spend up to $500-600 additional cash to complete the system with me doing the install and buying parts on-line or local.
My thoughts:
I plan on adding an amplified subwoofer in the back attached to the back of the rear seat. Its an open wagon with plenty of space but I would like to keep it as compact as possible. I was thinking the 10" bazooka powered Sub strapped on. A local shop had them for $250.brI plan on buying 2 more 61/2" speakers to go in the doors.brI plan on using the 200W alpine amp to power the 4 61/2" speakers and the 2 tweats up front. I plan on using the pre-outs from the alpine HU for the 4 channels and the sub pre-out to the sub.
Questions:
Given the existing parts, car and budget any recommendations on the sub & speakers brand etc. is welcome or alternative ideas on how to do it. The depth of the doors is not great so it would prob need to be shallow type speakers. Im not even sure if my Alpines will fit yet (hope).
Since I plan on installing this myself what install kit do I need and where can I get one on-line to cover the space where the stock stereo is coming out from.brWhat gauge wire should I run to the dist for power from the Alpine & Sub amp #4 or #8? Do I need to make a run for each or do I run a #4 from the dist to the dash then #8 to each of the amps?
I feel I can get the stereo in and the speakers in and the wires to the amp but im a little worried about the wiring of the amp to the battery and running the speaker wire into the panels.brIm concerned about how to crossover the small tweats in the window frame with the 61/2" in the front door panels.
Not sure where I will mount the amp. Havent figured out if there is enough space under the seat but expect that there is certainly could attach to the back seat as well.
Any advise about correct way to do the wiring or specifics on wiring a Subaru Outback would be very helpful. I read all the brownstone articles in the FAQ which were great but im looking for a little more detail on my specific car and stereo setup.brThis forum is wonderful ill continue to dig around for more info and any responses are greatly appreciated.
Taj
Replies (3)
swez on 05/12/2004 18:19:58
The 6.5's in the doors make for a clean install if they will fit. If the magnets get in the way of mechanics such as windows, can always us a 1" trim ring to pull them out, away from the mechanicals.
That Alpine amp... which one do you have here? (Model #)
As for a nice, compact sub system, have you considered the Infinity Basslink system? A 200 watt amp, 10" sub and passive radiator in a nice, compact yet potent enough package. I did see it on the web for under $250.00
http://www.techronics.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_id=807&aff=45847 $239.00
When using 2 amps, best to run your main power feed line from BAT (Pos) to back area where amps are located and use a Distribution Block to split power for each amp. Ground both amps in same location to bare metal ground. You will also need a fuse on that line, close to the battery. Depending on the wire gage used, 50 or 80 ampere fuse is good.
Wire gage to use depends on amps used. A #8 wire is good up to 50 amperes of current. The Infinity Basslink requires a 25 amp fuse. Depending on the other amp used, you might just get by with #8, but a #6 or #4 would be a better choice if you think you might upgrade later.
As for mounting your Alpine HU, I'll leave that one open to one of our installers to answer.
Hope that gets you started,
Swez
Taj on 05/12/2004 19:14:57
Thanks for the reply Swez
Alpine MRP-F200
Alpine 200W 4-ch Amplifier
4/3/2 Channel V-Power Series Amplifier 40W x 4 @ 4 ohms - 14.4V 50W x 4 @ 2 ohms - 14.4V 100W x 2 @ 4 ohms - 14.4V Bass Boost 18dB HP/LP (80Hz) Crossover 4 Volt Input MOSFET Power
Think it would be a good idea to invest in a better amp for the 4x61/2 and use the alpine for the sub?
I used the 1" trim rings on the speakers when they were in my old car but im not sure the rings will fit behind the grills on the new car. I will try that out if they are too deep. Any recommendations on a good pair of 61/2 speakers that are on the slim side? If they are able to fit should I just buy another pair of the Alpine Pro's. The 61/2's I have are the Alpine SPR-174A's.
How big of a deal is it to ground both amps in the same location? I was going to ground the amp I put under the front seat on the front seatbelt bolt and the one I put behind the back seat on the back seatbelt bolt.
How big of a deal is it to run power down the same side panel as sheilded RCA. I seem to read conflicting reports. Is there a good shielded wire to by or a kit I could buy thats out there on line that people recommend for the wire?
Thanks again.
swez on 05/13/2004 09:18:01
As for a Primo 6.5 Comp set, many here are trying the CDT CL-61a off Zeb. At $150.00 a pair this is an amazing price for high SQL full range system. I believe they are under 3" deep on the woofer.
Look: http://www.thezeb.com/detail.aspx?ID=1083
As for amps, the Alpine noted will do, but really a very modest amp in all. If you bridged it down to a 2 channel and powered your front speakers, (or sub) that will work pretty well.
As for rear channel speakers, you can still use your coaxials... a brand of your choice and either run them off the HU amplifers (rear channels) or get a modest 2 channel amp to power same, than add your powered sub in rear cargo area.
Another option... use the Alpine 2 channel in bridged mode to power a 4+4 DVC sub. It's a clean sounding amp... not too much power, so a single 10" DVC is adequate. Then add a more potent 4 channel to driver the full range speakers. For under $200.00, the USB-4085 delivers 85 RMS x 4 @ 4 ohms. May have to do a "google search" for them. Getting harder to find them online.
Look: http://www.usacoustics.com/2004/usb4085%20specs.htm
As for running power line and RCA's on the same rails... best not to do that as noise for inside the car or engine can easily be picked up by signal cables if too close to power and speaker lines. This is especially true on HU's that have very low output voltages through the RCA outs. Some get by with it... but if you had to spend hours tracking down noise problems and move the wires in the end, is it worth the gamble? Best to do it right the first time.
Finally, when using multiple amps, best to use a common grounding point in the vehicle for all amps and signal processors in the audio chain. This prevents noise and ground loop problems that often arise from using multiple grounding points.
When you install your HU, make sure your ground is to a bare metal (like floor pan) as the harness grounds are not always the best location. The harness ground may be noisy or lead to ground loop problems if used.
Swez
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