I'm planning on installing Polk db6500 components up front and matching 2-way db650's in the rear of my car. I am curious if using 2 Amps (2-channel front and 2-channel rear) is a better option then a 4-channel Amp set-up. The fronts are rated at 100W and the rears are rated at 60W. suggestions? Can I bridge a 4-channel to send more power to the front then the back? Should the watts match front and back? Any suggestions/theories on power distribution guys???
Replies (27)
uochronos on 05/10/2004 14:41:15
you can use 2 amps here but a single 4 channel well work. a 80-100watts rms 4 channel amp well work just keep trhe gain and boost turned down on the back and all should be ok. i personaly have run speakers rated at 60watts rms off a 125waztt rms amp i jsut kept it all turned down and was very carefull. no that i suggest over poweering speakers thast much just making an example.
ttocs on 05/10/2004 17:32:03
a single amp will make the wiring much easier and cheaper IMO... are you going to add a sub amp? if that is the case get a 4 channel, maybe even a 5 if you want to keep it simple....
wilee-coyote on 05/11/2004 00:22:38
Thanks guys. I was thinking of a 4-channel Rockford Amp with 65 watts per channel. As for the subwoofer, that was the first upgrade I did after a new Alpine head unit. Couldn't do new speakers and another Amp at the same time for $$$ reasons. So I have the sub and separate mono Amp already.br
swez on 05/11/2004 20:08:36
You can use a good 4 channel to power all Polks. The fronts may need a few extra watts to reach full potential as the rears often give a few more dB of output off the rear window.
As for amp brands... see if you can find a US Acoustics USB-4085 amp. This baby is sweet... 85 RMS/channel @ 4 ohms, full filtering and bridging capability and generally under $200.00 new off the web. Zeb and Crutchfield used to carry them, but have dropped them from their website. A google search or e-bay may be your best options.
Swez
wilee-coyote on 05/11/2004 22:46:18
Your input is invaluable and truly appreciated. Again just so I understand... it's OK to power the rear speakers rated at ^) wats with a 40-channel as you suggest rated at 85 watts? I will be searching for the Amp you recommend. Certainly worth looking at for the price/value. This whole set-up is a graduation present for my daughter's Toyota Celica. Thanks again for your help...
swez on 05/12/2004 10:47:38
It may be a bit harder to find this amp these days. A Google search may be your best bet.
Yes, even though the rear speakers are only rated for 60 watts, they can take more power as long as the power from the amp is low distortion and the amp is not clipping. (overload, w/high distortion)
There are 2 gain adjustments on this amp. One for the front channels and one for the rear. Setting the gains to match the HU output is your first step. (Ie: HU states a 2.0 volt preout voltage to RCA's) Use that as a starting point and then adjust rear channel gain control to balance the F&R speakers.
The High Pass Filters (HPF) should be set between 40 and 60 Hz if no subs are installed. This will net good lows and full range performance as well. If too much bass distortion is noted, raise the HPF to ~70 Hz.
Swez
wilee-coyote on 05/12/2004 14:12:44
Thanks again Swez----
I did a search last night and when I could find nothing I sent the company an email. A lady got back with me already this morning with this reply.
=========
Hi Steve,
Yes, the USX Line has recently been discontinued .. Our new replacement models USC will be shipping by the end of this month. We do have two four channel amps in our higher end line USG4080 & USG4125 - these two are getting very good reviews.
=========
I'll be looking into these but thought I'd pass the info on to you as well.
Take care and thanks again!
Steve
swez on 05/13/2004 09:59:45
Ahhh, that explains why the USX and USB series are so hard to find these days. They are a lot cheaper than the new USG series amps, but the USG series has been upgraded a bit to justify the price.
This one will work: http://www.thezeb.com/detail.aspx?ID=8742
Selling for $299.00 here.
Try e-bay for USX or USB-4085 series. You may get lucky and save a ~$100.00 !
Swez
wilee-coyote on 05/14/2004 09:41:17
Thanks again Swez,
I've always been a fan of Rockford Amps as well. I found a very "inexpensive" Rockford 301X (40x4 RMS) at www.etronics.com. Two more questions for you though if I may. Is 40x4 going to underpower the speakers too much? Give it too me straight... If I really need to step up in watts I will. Also, do you know if www.etronics.com a reputable place?
swez on 05/14/2004 11:37:32
Etronics has been used by several guys here and good results as well.
They often have some of the best prices off the web as well.
That RF 301X is a bit underpowered for the Polks noted. If user has a good sense of detecting amplifier "clipping" (excess distortion) this amp will do OK. Read as.. " If she likes it loud" ... could blow the speakers by high distortion output from an underpowered amp.
Larger amps will put out more "clean power" and this is actually good for quality audio. The speakers get plenty of usable clean watts and the amp is not working to hard to deliver same. If I were buying for myself, I'd go a bit larger amp then the 301X. (closer to 75 watts RMS x 4)
BTW, RF has been around a long time in car audio. They were "King of the Hill" for most of the 70's, 80's & 90's. RF has slipped a bit from that position as newer technology and better players have come into the game. Not saying RF is a poor choice, just not the best choice anymore. (price, performance and overall value wise)
Consider these:
1. PHOENIX GOLD OCTANE-R 5.0:4 ($179.00) (*****)
----------------------------
Multi-Channel Amp Specifications
Amplifier Type: Multi-Channel
RMS Power: 50W x 4 @ 14.4V
Bridged RMS Power: 150W x 2 @ 14.4V
THD at Rated RMS Power: n/a
Speaker Level Inputs: No
Preamp Outputs: Yes
Built-In Crossovers: HP/LP
Bass Boost: 0 - 15 dB
Frequency Response: 20-20,000 Hz
Channel Separation: n/a
Signal to Noise Ratio: >100 dB
Fuse Rating: 2 x 20 amps
http://www.justamps.com/Amp_Pages/PhoenixGold/PhoenixGold_
Octane.htm
==========================================
2. Lanzar Vibrant Series: VIBE418 $105.00 (***)
4 x 100 Watts RMS at 4 Ohms
4 x 200 Watts Max at 4 Ohms
2 x 400 Watts Max at 4 Ohms Bridged
4 x 175 Watts at 2 Ohms
Electronic Crossover Network
Bass Boost Circuit
Bridgeable at 4 Ohms
2 Ohms Stereo Stable
Tri-Mode Capable
Gold RCA Inputs
Line Outs For CH1/CH2/CH3/CH4 channels.
Power & Protection LED Indicators
Advanced Protection Circuitry
Soft Turn On/Off
Frequency Response: 15 Hz - 35 kHz
S/N ratio: 90dB
Dimensions: 11.5"W x 2.3"H x 12"L
http://www.justamps.com/Amp_Pages/Lanzar/Lanzar_Viberant.htm
===========================================
3. VIBE411 $107.00 (***)
4 Channel Amplifier
4 x 75 Watts RMS at 4 Ohms
4 x 125 Watts at 2 Ohms
MOSFET Switches Maintain Rated Power Over A Wide Range of Battery Voltages
Stiffly Regulated PWM-Type Power Supplies
Variable Input Level Controls for Each Pair of Cannels
Variable High & Low Pass Crossover Controls
High-Efficiency, Heavy Aluminum Heatsink
Remote Subwoofer Bass Control
Electronic Crossover Network
Bass Boost Circuit
Bridgeable at 4 Ohms
2 Ohm Stereo Stable
Tri-Mode Capable
Gold RCA Inputs
Power & Protection LED Indicators
Advanced Protection Circuitry
Soft Turn On/Off
Frequency Response: 15 Hz-35 kHz
S/N Ratio: 90 dB
Dimensions: 10.25"W x 2"H x 12"L
http://www.justamps.com/Amp_Pages/Lanzar/Lanzar_vibe2.htm
=========================================
4. Lightning Audio Bolt B2.400.4 $180.00 (****)
Multi-Channel Amp Specifications
Amplifier Type: Multi-Channel
RMS Power: 75W x 4
Bridged RMS Power: 200W x 2
THD at Rated RMS Power: n/a
Speaker Level Inputs: Yes
Preamp Outputs: Yes
Built-In Crossovers: HP/LP
Bass Boost: 0, 6, or 12dB
Frequency Response: 20-20,000 Hz
Channel Separation: 50 dB
Signal to Noise Ratio: >90 dB
Fuse Rating: 2 x 25 amps
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/LITB24004
===========================================
5.Avionixx AXA 440.4 $205.00 (****)
Number of Channels 4
RMS Power @ 4ohm, <0.05% THD 4x85 RMS
RMS Power @ Bridged 4 ohm <0.5% THD 2x220
RMS Power @ 2 ohm, <0.5% THD 4x110
Power Bandwidth (Rated Power -1dB) 15Hz - 30kHz
Frequency Response (+0/-3dB) 5Hz - 70kHz
"A" Weighted Signal to Niose Ratio >-90dBA
Channel Seperation >60dBA
Damping Factor >200
Variable Input Level 150mV - 6V
Variable Frequency Bass EQ 25Hz - 80Hz
Controlled Electronic Noise Suppression "Cens" Yes
Variable Low Pass Crossover Filter 50Hz - 250Hz 12dB
Variable High Pass Crossover Filter 50Hz - 250Hz 12dB
Double Sided, 1Oz. Copper Clad FR4 board Yes
Overload Protection Yes
Short Circut Protection Yes
DC Off-Set Protection Yes
Thermal Protection Yes
Fuse 2 x 40A
Heat Sink Dimensions - Inches 13 7/8x 9 7/8 x 2 1/4
Heat Sink Dimensions - Millimeters 352 x 251 x 57
Weight 12 Lbs.
http://www.avionixxusa.com/ep/axa_4402.htm
===========================================
These are low priced, adequate power, good reliability and well known brand names. The Phoenix Gold brand is best known for quality, reliability and a very good value. Power is less than desired but on par with better amps out there. PG is not cheap in design, price or quality.
Lightning Bolt series is a sister division of Rockford Fosgate. Not a bad little amp.
Lanzar is a midgrade amp maker. They offer good feqaturs, decent features and moderate prices. Many of the younger crowd use them as they cannot afford the Big Boy Toys.
Avionixx is a newcomer to the game. Several on the site have talked about them and a few have purchased same with good results. Personally, I know very little about them other than they offer adequate power, above average features, low distortion and a low introductory price.
Finally, in all candor... The USB/USX series mentioned earlier are a great all around deal... but cannot find them as US Acoustics has phased them out for the USG series. Probably similar in performance to the other 2 series... just costs considerably more. Looks like US Acoustics has elected to make higher profits on future designs offered. They were the "low ball" , best value amp on the market in my opinion.
What say you?
Swez
wilee-coyote on 05/14/2004 13:50:46
This is awesome info. I will heed your advice and go with a bit more power. It's funny, I have a home system that rivals most. Probably close to 20K in it now, with custom made (by me) innterconnects. I always go for SQ. She understands both SQ from watching me build the home system but she still loves to play her music loud. She trusts me to get her good quality at a fair price. I've been trying to strike a balance between SQ and SPL with an emphasis on SQ.
With that said, I plan to check out all the Amps you have suggested. Funny for as much as I know about home audio, my depth in the car world is limited. Guess that's why I'm here and I can not thank you enough for your time and your talent. I'll let you know what I decide after I check all these out. One last question. I may upgrade her subwoofer as well to keep everything similar. She has room for one sub but it could be either 10" or 12". I really like the Infinity Perfect line but do not really understand which makes a better choice 10" or 12". I know ther eare many variables but I'm not even sure what the advantages of either are in order to make an informed purchase. Any thoughts or is their a site to point me to with some good info?
Steve
uochronos on 05/14/2004 14:07:14
10" well get you punchy more clear bass but lack a bit in low end compared to the exact same model ina a 12". where as a 12" well net you more low end but lack a bit in the punchiness department compared to a 10" of the same model..
if you are looking to upgrade check out the elemental designs K series they are all udner 100$ for every size in that series and can handle up to 500watts but need very little to actualy work
http://www.edesignaudio.com/kv2.htm
i purchased one of there Kx series 12" speakers that they are clearaning for 75$ and i'm very pleased with it and i'm only putting 300watts intgo it. in my wifes car.
wilee-coyote on 05/14/2004 14:39:45
Thanks I will check out the K series. Just out of curiousity what do you gain when you start adding multiple subs? Two 10's or 2 12's for example.
swez on 05/15/2004 08:14:51
Multiple subs add more cone area to push out more bass energy. Generally, more power is required and matching the amp to the sub properly is the key. (ohmic rating)
In this install, you are working with a 12 volt system that thrives on current draw. In HT, you have 120 volts and moderate current draw. The components are basically the same... just smaller scale for car usage. The current available to power larger amps is limited in most stock electrical car systems. So you have to be savvy as to how much amping power you choose for the entire system or risk straining the electricals. (Ie: ALT, BAT & stock wiring)
For subs, Infinty makes a very good SQ/SPL sub. Mating it (them) to the right amp is key. To save on current draw, use a Class D or Class T, MONO amplifier. These draw less current for the watts they put out and most good amps are ~90% efficient. Class A/B amps are clean and best for mids/highs applications. However, they are ~60% efficient. For every 100 watts they draw in, you get ~60 watts of output)
Finally, a 10" or 12" sub... both will do a fine job with bass if you stick with Infinity or Alpine subs. The enclosure size and type (sealed, ported or bandpass) will determine the sound characteristics you'll get from the sub used. A 12" sub will generally go lower, a tad more efficient and will take more power as well. In this application, a well matched 10" sub, enclosure and amp is the key to great bass. Figure about 300 watts RMS to the sub you choose will be plenty. Much more than that, current draw issues will come into play and even more expense.
Swez
wilee-coyote on 05/16/2004 23:56:08
OK Swez --- I did the homework assignment you gave me and I checked out the AMPs you listed. I really like the Octane series. I know you recommended the OCTANE-R 5.0:4 but based on your suggestion to get closer to 75watts/channel I am OK with jumoing up to the OCTANE-R 8.0:4 (75watts RMSx4). Using the price match guarantee ant Sounddomain I can get that AMP for about $205 (they already approved it). Any reason not to get that AMP? Also in researching I found that PG makes an OCTANE 9.0:5 which is a 5 channel AMP (50watts x 4 + 250watts to the sub at 2ohms). Any thoughts on the 5 channel OCTANE from PG?
Thanks again for all your input. If my daugther only knew how well thought out her system will be!!!
Steve
swez on 05/17/2004 09:58:34
The PG 4 channel, Octane 8.0:4 is your best bet at that price. The 5 channel version (9.0:5) would also be a good choice provided you use a 4+4 Dual Voice Coil sub, wire in parallel for 2 ohms or a pair of 4 ohm Single coil subs. At this power range, a single 10" or 12" sub is plenty.
The only thing I would question, is the price difference between the 8.0:4 and 9.0:5. ($360.00 at Just Amps for the 9.0:5)
If it cost you more than ~$150.00 more for the 9.0:5, there are more cost effective ways to get bass from an add on sub amp. Adding a PG Octane 4.0:2 for the sub will work fine and match the 4 channel amp you wish to buy as well.
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/PHOR402 $179.95 ($130.00 @ Just Amps) Is 250 RMS when bridged MONO. A single 4 ohm sub is all that's needed here.
Plan on running a #4 gage power wire kit here. Anyway you slice it, going to pull close to 80A., of current at full power. This is probably going to tax the electrical system if your daughter likes her music loud! If she notes light dimming after the install is completed, some electrical upgrades may follow in short order. (Ie: larger CCA rated BAT and some larger gage wires between ALT/BAT, BAT/GND and Grounding strap to engine block.
If you want some bargaining power on price match policy at SD, use this site for best price on Octane series amps. The site below carries Octane Amps and at much lower than list pricing.
http://www.justamps.com/Amp_Pages/PhoenixGold/
PhoenixGold_Octane.htm
More homework... hope it works out in the budget.. but hey, we only graduate once from HS... then on to College or working.
Swez
PS It is good that you understand high end HT applications already. That will make this process much easier than if a total audio novice. May I also say you are one swell Dad for making the effort to do this for your daughter. CLAP to you Steve!
wilee-coyote on 05/17/2004 10:47:31
I am leaning toward just one Infinity Perfect 12.1 dual 4+4 sub that will pull at 2 ohms. It is rated at 350 RMS and 1400 Peak. I will be making a sealed enclosure myself that will be exactly 1.0 cf as recommended by Infinity.
I did use the JustAmps site as a reference and submitted price matches for the following 3 AMPs. They were all approved so now it's decision time. The 8.0:4 75watts x 4 (matched at $206.99), the 5.0:1 momo sub is 300watts @ 2 ohms (and matched at $216.59) and the 9.0:5 which is 50x4 and 300x1 @ 2 ohms matched at $286.69.
So my choices are really the 8.0:4 and the 5.0:1 for $423.58 or the 9.0:5 for $286.69. The two amp set-up provides 25 more watts to each speaker and more flexibility and a dedicated mono sub while the 5-channel provides a simpler install and a savings of $136.89.
One final option would be the 8.0:4 and the 4.0:2 as you suggested. Combined they will be about $335 but the sub will get 250 watts instead of 300 and it is not a class D amp (see I was listening earlier teacher!).
You've been a tremendous help and I will most definitely be making a donation when it's all said and done. Thanks for the compliment on being a good Dad. I had my daughter when I was only 18 and her Mother left us when she was 5. I've been Mr. Mom for 13 years now and she is a terrific kid. She shows no disrespect, never gets in trouble, good grades, no drinking, no smoking, has her own jobe makes her own car payments. She deserves this but thanks it helps to hear every once in a while....
I look forward to your continued recommendations on my Amp selection...
Steve
wilee-coyote on 05/17/2004 11:00:09
One last thing. The more I look at the 4.0:2 it might be a great option for the sub. According to the specs it is rated at 4-ohm Bridged: 250 watts x 1. Does that mean I could not use it with a single Infinity Perfect 12.1 dual 4?
Steve
uochronos on 05/17/2004 15:43:23
wiuth the 4.0:2 you would need a 2+2 ohm sub. i belive infinity makes dual 4 and a dual 2. but im not 100% sure have not dealt with them in some time. hmm i just checked and it looks like they make a 12.1 that is a single 4 ohm voice coil this would work with this sub. may i also suggest the JBL BP300.1 for your sub amp its a very potent amp and can be had for under 145$ shipped. the jble 300.1 well probaly have a bit more power then the octane 5.0:1 and a bit cheaper too. just a suggestion though
swez on 05/17/2004 18:29:16
The Octane 9.0:5 is your best value here and as I see it, there is not a huge sonic difference between 50 or 75 watts RMS amplification. (~+1.5 dB gain/ch., using the the 75 watt, 4 channel VS the 9.0:5) Not a lot of extra gain for the money involved here.
As you say, simplicity of installing only 1 amp for everything is a plus as well. That's up to your choice. Also, there is very little sonic output difference between 250 and 300 watts RMS to single sub. (less than 1dB of bass SPL here)
However, if you go ported with the sub of choice, you will pick up ~+3dB from porting. Tune the port at say 38 Hz., and it will sound very good in this vehicle. A ported enclosure is only slightly larger than sealed. Just a matter of getting the tuning port specs right along with the enclosure calulations.
In this application (R9.0:5) you need a 2 ohm load. That means a 4+4 DVC, wired full parallel to the sub amp. The 250 watts is more than adequate, even though the sub can take more... still fine. You can go with Infinity Kappa 120.3 (4+4 DVC) or Perfect 12.1d (also 4+4) DVC. The listed prices at SD are very high. A little shopping can get them down a bit. The Infinity Reference 1232W is also a good choice and now comes in 4+4 DVC configuration. A lot cheaper, rated for 250 RMS and everybit as capable as his bigger brothers at much lower cost. I've seen this one under $99.00 as well.
1. Infinity Kappa 120.3 $129.00
http://www.infinitecaraudio.com/cgi-bin/icastore.cgi?user_action=detail&catalogno=KAPPA1203DVC
2. Infinity Perfect 12. 1 DVC $189.00
http://www.infinitecaraudio.com/cgi-bin/icastore.cgi?user_action=detail&catalogno=PERFECT121DVC
3. Infinity Reference 1232W 4+4 DVC $89.00
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=13354
Also, consider the Alpine SWS or SWR series subs. These are also SQ/SPL subs and very much on par with Infinity subs, but generally cheaper as well.
4. Alpine SWR-1241d (4+4 ohms DVC) $100.00 http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?icatid=369&stk_code=alpswr1241d&svbname=30
Specs: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-DIPdQIglOAF/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?a=&s=0&cc=01&g=67700&id=features_and_specs&i=
500SWR1241
===========================================
That about covers quality subs in power range, lower prices, SQ/SPL and 4+4 DVC configuration. The Infinity Perfect is a very good sub. But I would not hesitate to use any of the other subs listed where a 2 ohm load is needed and 250-300 watts of power is available.
The best value of the bunch is the Alpine 1241d. No slouch here on performance either. Very similar to Infinity Kappa subs and a bit cheaper as well.
Hope that helps more than confuses,
Swez
wilee-coyote on 05/17/2004 21:32:30
The 9.0:5 it is.....brbrWell you should know by now I've already found the subs at www.etronics.com and price matched them with SD. The 12.1d is only going to run $133, I have listened to the Alpine and before I found the Infinity for $133 the Alpine was my choice. My daughter has been listening to her friends JL sub and she really likes it. That is a great sub but quite a bit more money.brbrIf she really wants the JL then I told her she may have to pay for the sub herself and I'll get everything else. Ideally she would like to get two 10" subs. If I get them it will be one 12.1d dual coil, if she pays for them she wants to get two 10" subs. If she gets two 10" subs should they be single coils to keep the impedence correct or should they be 10" DVC?br
swez on 05/18/2004 00:47:19
With the Octane R 9.0:5, if she really wants a pair of 10's, you'll have to go with a pair of 4 ohm SVC subs in parallel or a pair of 2+2 DVC's for that amp. It will cost more, be a larger box... but she can always add a larger sub amp later to drive a pair of dual 10's to full potential.
I did see Alpine 10's for under $85.00/each somewhere... let's look:
Yep... here we are:
http://www.pcplusltd.com/pcplus/product.asp?lMainCategoryID=145&lcategoryID=82&lProductID=92756 $83.00 each, 300 RMS per sub, 2+2 DVC... ported or sealed
SPECS: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-KSB5cFzlsCa/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?a=&s=0&cc=01&g=67700&id=features_and_specs&i=500SWS1222
These are very well priced subs and a pair of 10's in a 2+2 configuration will net a 2 ohm load when wired Serie/Parallel.
That'll work and she can always add a larger sub amp later if she wants more bass.
Swez
wilee-coyote on 05/18/2004 17:34:37
I think we're getting very close to putting an order together. One last question regarding the Amplifier (or Amplifiers). The head unit she has is an Alpine CDA-7864 with 2 preouts (1 for front and 1 for rear/subwoofer). How do I correctly hook up the front speakers, the rear speakers, and the sub(s). Especially if I decide to spring for two amps. Do I use the front preout for the 4 channel amp and the rear/sub preout for the subwoofer amp? The 9.0:5 has three sets of inputs (front/rear/sub). If we go with that AMP do I still use both sets of preouts and if so do I connect the front to the front inout and the rear/sub to the sub input?
Thanks again!
Steve
uochronos on 05/19/2004 05:07:45
the 4 channel i belive well take 4 rcs left/right front and left/right rear. so i would plug all 4 into the 4 channel amp. then the amp most likly well have output RCA jack run those to the sub woofer amp.... thats how i ran my amps before i got a EQ/crossover unit. and it worked fine that way.
swez on 05/19/2004 10:54:15
There are a few options here you can use:
1. Run all 4 RCA out to 4 channel segment of amp and use a pair of "Y" connectors off Rear RCA's from HU to split signal to rear and sub input RCA's. The "Y" splitters have 1 female RCA, and 2 male RCA's per set. These are available at WalMart, Target and most AV stores like CC or BB... cheap! You will need two sets.
This: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=240-125
2. A more expensive approach would be to use a line driver with 4 channels inputs and 5/6 channels out. These offer RCA signal preamps and boost RCA signals from HU to amp for best noise rejection. Not cheap either.
This: http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/PHOTLD66
The "Y" cables are usually adequate for most applications if the HU has a 4.0 volt or more RCA output range.
Swez
wilee-coyote on 05/19/2004 14:19:55
Well I really wasn't sure... I will either run all 4 to the 4-channel as uochronos suggests and then out from the 4-channel to the sub amp, or I will use the y cables. I am familiar with the y cables as I have two subwoofers in my home stereo and only one LF output from the reciever. The y adapter allowed me to send the signal to both subs. Never even thought of that solution here.
Thanks guys!
Steve
swez on 05/19/2004 19:31:15
From what I see on this amp (9.0:5) you have 4 channels for interior speakers and 1 or 2 channels for the sub. There is no preamp outs on this amp to daisy chain amps together.
The "Y" cables are your best option in terms of price if there is enough HU voltage out of the "Y" splitters to drive each amp input.
Swez
Replies (27)
uochronos on 05/10/2004 14:41:15
you can use 2 amps here but a single 4 channel well work. a 80-100watts rms 4 channel amp well work just keep trhe gain and boost turned down on the back and all should be ok. i personaly have run speakers rated at 60watts rms off a 125waztt rms amp i jsut kept it all turned down and was very carefull. no that i suggest over poweering speakers thast much just making an example.
ttocs on 05/10/2004 17:32:03
a single amp will make the wiring much easier and cheaper IMO... are you going to add a sub amp? if that is the case get a 4 channel, maybe even a 5 if you want to keep it simple....
wilee-coyote on 05/11/2004 00:22:38
Thanks guys. I was thinking of a 4-channel Rockford Amp with 65 watts per channel. As for the subwoofer, that was the first upgrade I did after a new Alpine head unit. Couldn't do new speakers and another Amp at the same time for $$$ reasons. So I have the sub and separate mono Amp already.br
swez on 05/11/2004 20:08:36
You can use a good 4 channel to power all Polks. The fronts may need a few extra watts to reach full potential as the rears often give a few more dB of output off the rear window.
As for amp brands... see if you can find a US Acoustics USB-4085 amp. This baby is sweet... 85 RMS/channel @ 4 ohms, full filtering and bridging capability and generally under $200.00 new off the web. Zeb and Crutchfield used to carry them, but have dropped them from their website. A google search or e-bay may be your best options.
Swez
wilee-coyote on 05/11/2004 22:46:18
Your input is invaluable and truly appreciated. Again just so I understand... it's OK to power the rear speakers rated at ^) wats with a 40-channel as you suggest rated at 85 watts? I will be searching for the Amp you recommend. Certainly worth looking at for the price/value. This whole set-up is a graduation present for my daughter's Toyota Celica. Thanks again for your help...
swez on 05/12/2004 10:47:38
It may be a bit harder to find this amp these days. A Google search may be your best bet.
Yes, even though the rear speakers are only rated for 60 watts, they can take more power as long as the power from the amp is low distortion and the amp is not clipping. (overload, w/high distortion)
There are 2 gain adjustments on this amp. One for the front channels and one for the rear. Setting the gains to match the HU output is your first step. (Ie: HU states a 2.0 volt preout voltage to RCA's) Use that as a starting point and then adjust rear channel gain control to balance the F&R speakers.
The High Pass Filters (HPF) should be set between 40 and 60 Hz if no subs are installed. This will net good lows and full range performance as well. If too much bass distortion is noted, raise the HPF to ~70 Hz.
Swez
wilee-coyote on 05/12/2004 14:12:44
Thanks again Swez----
I did a search last night and when I could find nothing I sent the company an email. A lady got back with me already this morning with this reply.
=========
Hi Steve,
Yes, the USX Line has recently been discontinued .. Our new replacement models USC will be shipping by the end of this month. We do have two four channel amps in our higher end line USG4080 & USG4125 - these two are getting very good reviews.
=========
I'll be looking into these but thought I'd pass the info on to you as well.
Take care and thanks again!
Steve
swez on 05/13/2004 09:59:45
Ahhh, that explains why the USX and USB series are so hard to find these days. They are a lot cheaper than the new USG series amps, but the USG series has been upgraded a bit to justify the price.
This one will work: http://www.thezeb.com/detail.aspx?ID=8742
Selling for $299.00 here.
Try e-bay for USX or USB-4085 series. You may get lucky and save a ~$100.00 !
Swez
wilee-coyote on 05/14/2004 09:41:17
Thanks again Swez,
I've always been a fan of Rockford Amps as well. I found a very "inexpensive" Rockford 301X (40x4 RMS) at www.etronics.com. Two more questions for you though if I may. Is 40x4 going to underpower the speakers too much? Give it too me straight... If I really need to step up in watts I will. Also, do you know if www.etronics.com a reputable place?
swez on 05/14/2004 11:37:32
Etronics has been used by several guys here and good results as well.
They often have some of the best prices off the web as well.
That RF 301X is a bit underpowered for the Polks noted. If user has a good sense of detecting amplifier "clipping" (excess distortion) this amp will do OK. Read as.. " If she likes it loud" ... could blow the speakers by high distortion output from an underpowered amp.
Larger amps will put out more "clean power" and this is actually good for quality audio. The speakers get plenty of usable clean watts and the amp is not working to hard to deliver same. If I were buying for myself, I'd go a bit larger amp then the 301X. (closer to 75 watts RMS x 4)
BTW, RF has been around a long time in car audio. They were "King of the Hill" for most of the 70's, 80's & 90's. RF has slipped a bit from that position as newer technology and better players have come into the game. Not saying RF is a poor choice, just not the best choice anymore. (price, performance and overall value wise)
Consider these:
1. PHOENIX GOLD OCTANE-R 5.0:4 ($179.00) (*****)
----------------------------
Multi-Channel Amp Specifications
Amplifier Type: Multi-Channel
RMS Power: 50W x 4 @ 14.4V
Bridged RMS Power: 150W x 2 @ 14.4V
THD at Rated RMS Power: n/a
Speaker Level Inputs: No
Preamp Outputs: Yes
Built-In Crossovers: HP/LP
Bass Boost: 0 - 15 dB
Frequency Response: 20-20,000 Hz
Channel Separation: n/a
Signal to Noise Ratio: >100 dB
Fuse Rating: 2 x 20 amps
http://www.justamps.com/Amp_Pages/PhoenixGold/PhoenixGold_
Octane.htm
==========================================
2. Lanzar Vibrant Series: VIBE418 $105.00 (***)
4 x 100 Watts RMS at 4 Ohms
4 x 200 Watts Max at 4 Ohms
2 x 400 Watts Max at 4 Ohms Bridged
4 x 175 Watts at 2 Ohms
Electronic Crossover Network
Bass Boost Circuit
Bridgeable at 4 Ohms
2 Ohms Stereo Stable
Tri-Mode Capable
Gold RCA Inputs
Line Outs For CH1/CH2/CH3/CH4 channels.
Power & Protection LED Indicators
Advanced Protection Circuitry
Soft Turn On/Off
Frequency Response: 15 Hz - 35 kHz
S/N ratio: 90dB
Dimensions: 11.5"W x 2.3"H x 12"L
http://www.justamps.com/Amp_Pages/Lanzar/Lanzar_Viberant.htm
===========================================
3. VIBE411 $107.00 (***)
4 Channel Amplifier
4 x 75 Watts RMS at 4 Ohms
4 x 125 Watts at 2 Ohms
MOSFET Switches Maintain Rated Power Over A Wide Range of Battery Voltages
Stiffly Regulated PWM-Type Power Supplies
Variable Input Level Controls for Each Pair of Cannels
Variable High & Low Pass Crossover Controls
High-Efficiency, Heavy Aluminum Heatsink
Remote Subwoofer Bass Control
Electronic Crossover Network
Bass Boost Circuit
Bridgeable at 4 Ohms
2 Ohm Stereo Stable
Tri-Mode Capable
Gold RCA Inputs
Power & Protection LED Indicators
Advanced Protection Circuitry
Soft Turn On/Off
Frequency Response: 15 Hz-35 kHz
S/N Ratio: 90 dB
Dimensions: 10.25"W x 2"H x 12"L
http://www.justamps.com/Amp_Pages/Lanzar/Lanzar_vibe2.htm
=========================================
4. Lightning Audio Bolt B2.400.4 $180.00 (****)
Multi-Channel Amp Specifications
Amplifier Type: Multi-Channel
RMS Power: 75W x 4
Bridged RMS Power: 200W x 2
THD at Rated RMS Power: n/a
Speaker Level Inputs: Yes
Preamp Outputs: Yes
Built-In Crossovers: HP/LP
Bass Boost: 0, 6, or 12dB
Frequency Response: 20-20,000 Hz
Channel Separation: 50 dB
Signal to Noise Ratio: >90 dB
Fuse Rating: 2 x 25 amps
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/LITB24004
===========================================
5.Avionixx AXA 440.4 $205.00 (****)
Number of Channels 4
RMS Power @ 4ohm, <0.05% THD 4x85 RMS
RMS Power @ Bridged 4 ohm <0.5% THD 2x220
RMS Power @ 2 ohm, <0.5% THD 4x110
Power Bandwidth (Rated Power -1dB) 15Hz - 30kHz
Frequency Response (+0/-3dB) 5Hz - 70kHz
"A" Weighted Signal to Niose Ratio >-90dBA
Channel Seperation >60dBA
Damping Factor >200
Variable Input Level 150mV - 6V
Variable Frequency Bass EQ 25Hz - 80Hz
Controlled Electronic Noise Suppression "Cens" Yes
Variable Low Pass Crossover Filter 50Hz - 250Hz 12dB
Variable High Pass Crossover Filter 50Hz - 250Hz 12dB
Double Sided, 1Oz. Copper Clad FR4 board Yes
Overload Protection Yes
Short Circut Protection Yes
DC Off-Set Protection Yes
Thermal Protection Yes
Fuse 2 x 40A
Heat Sink Dimensions - Inches 13 7/8x 9 7/8 x 2 1/4
Heat Sink Dimensions - Millimeters 352 x 251 x 57
Weight 12 Lbs.
http://www.avionixxusa.com/ep/axa_4402.htm
===========================================
These are low priced, adequate power, good reliability and well known brand names. The Phoenix Gold brand is best known for quality, reliability and a very good value. Power is less than desired but on par with better amps out there. PG is not cheap in design, price or quality.
Lightning Bolt series is a sister division of Rockford Fosgate. Not a bad little amp.
Lanzar is a midgrade amp maker. They offer good feqaturs, decent features and moderate prices. Many of the younger crowd use them as they cannot afford the Big Boy Toys.
Avionixx is a newcomer to the game. Several on the site have talked about them and a few have purchased same with good results. Personally, I know very little about them other than they offer adequate power, above average features, low distortion and a low introductory price.
Finally, in all candor... The USB/USX series mentioned earlier are a great all around deal... but cannot find them as US Acoustics has phased them out for the USG series. Probably similar in performance to the other 2 series... just costs considerably more. Looks like US Acoustics has elected to make higher profits on future designs offered. They were the "low ball" , best value amp on the market in my opinion.
What say you?
Swez
wilee-coyote on 05/14/2004 13:50:46
This is awesome info. I will heed your advice and go with a bit more power. It's funny, I have a home system that rivals most. Probably close to 20K in it now, with custom made (by me) innterconnects. I always go for SQ. She understands both SQ from watching me build the home system but she still loves to play her music loud. She trusts me to get her good quality at a fair price. I've been trying to strike a balance between SQ and SPL with an emphasis on SQ.
With that said, I plan to check out all the Amps you have suggested. Funny for as much as I know about home audio, my depth in the car world is limited. Guess that's why I'm here and I can not thank you enough for your time and your talent. I'll let you know what I decide after I check all these out. One last question. I may upgrade her subwoofer as well to keep everything similar. She has room for one sub but it could be either 10" or 12". I really like the Infinity Perfect line but do not really understand which makes a better choice 10" or 12". I know ther eare many variables but I'm not even sure what the advantages of either are in order to make an informed purchase. Any thoughts or is their a site to point me to with some good info?
Steve
uochronos on 05/14/2004 14:07:14
10" well get you punchy more clear bass but lack a bit in low end compared to the exact same model ina a 12". where as a 12" well net you more low end but lack a bit in the punchiness department compared to a 10" of the same model..
if you are looking to upgrade check out the elemental designs K series they are all udner 100$ for every size in that series and can handle up to 500watts but need very little to actualy work
http://www.edesignaudio.com/kv2.htm
i purchased one of there Kx series 12" speakers that they are clearaning for 75$ and i'm very pleased with it and i'm only putting 300watts intgo it. in my wifes car.
wilee-coyote on 05/14/2004 14:39:45
Thanks I will check out the K series. Just out of curiousity what do you gain when you start adding multiple subs? Two 10's or 2 12's for example.
swez on 05/15/2004 08:14:51
Multiple subs add more cone area to push out more bass energy. Generally, more power is required and matching the amp to the sub properly is the key. (ohmic rating)
In this install, you are working with a 12 volt system that thrives on current draw. In HT, you have 120 volts and moderate current draw. The components are basically the same... just smaller scale for car usage. The current available to power larger amps is limited in most stock electrical car systems. So you have to be savvy as to how much amping power you choose for the entire system or risk straining the electricals. (Ie: ALT, BAT & stock wiring)
For subs, Infinty makes a very good SQ/SPL sub. Mating it (them) to the right amp is key. To save on current draw, use a Class D or Class T, MONO amplifier. These draw less current for the watts they put out and most good amps are ~90% efficient. Class A/B amps are clean and best for mids/highs applications. However, they are ~60% efficient. For every 100 watts they draw in, you get ~60 watts of output)
Finally, a 10" or 12" sub... both will do a fine job with bass if you stick with Infinity or Alpine subs. The enclosure size and type (sealed, ported or bandpass) will determine the sound characteristics you'll get from the sub used. A 12" sub will generally go lower, a tad more efficient and will take more power as well. In this application, a well matched 10" sub, enclosure and amp is the key to great bass. Figure about 300 watts RMS to the sub you choose will be plenty. Much more than that, current draw issues will come into play and even more expense.
Swez
wilee-coyote on 05/16/2004 23:56:08
OK Swez --- I did the homework assignment you gave me and I checked out the AMPs you listed. I really like the Octane series. I know you recommended the OCTANE-R 5.0:4 but based on your suggestion to get closer to 75watts/channel I am OK with jumoing up to the OCTANE-R 8.0:4 (75watts RMSx4). Using the price match guarantee ant Sounddomain I can get that AMP for about $205 (they already approved it). Any reason not to get that AMP? Also in researching I found that PG makes an OCTANE 9.0:5 which is a 5 channel AMP (50watts x 4 + 250watts to the sub at 2ohms). Any thoughts on the 5 channel OCTANE from PG?
Thanks again for all your input. If my daugther only knew how well thought out her system will be!!!
Steve
swez on 05/17/2004 09:58:34
The PG 4 channel, Octane 8.0:4 is your best bet at that price. The 5 channel version (9.0:5) would also be a good choice provided you use a 4+4 Dual Voice Coil sub, wire in parallel for 2 ohms or a pair of 4 ohm Single coil subs. At this power range, a single 10" or 12" sub is plenty.
The only thing I would question, is the price difference between the 8.0:4 and 9.0:5. ($360.00 at Just Amps for the 9.0:5)
If it cost you more than ~$150.00 more for the 9.0:5, there are more cost effective ways to get bass from an add on sub amp. Adding a PG Octane 4.0:2 for the sub will work fine and match the 4 channel amp you wish to buy as well.
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/PHOR402 $179.95 ($130.00 @ Just Amps) Is 250 RMS when bridged MONO. A single 4 ohm sub is all that's needed here.
Plan on running a #4 gage power wire kit here. Anyway you slice it, going to pull close to 80A., of current at full power. This is probably going to tax the electrical system if your daughter likes her music loud! If she notes light dimming after the install is completed, some electrical upgrades may follow in short order. (Ie: larger CCA rated BAT and some larger gage wires between ALT/BAT, BAT/GND and Grounding strap to engine block.
If you want some bargaining power on price match policy at SD, use this site for best price on Octane series amps. The site below carries Octane Amps and at much lower than list pricing.
http://www.justamps.com/Amp_Pages/PhoenixGold/
PhoenixGold_Octane.htm
More homework... hope it works out in the budget.. but hey, we only graduate once from HS... then on to College or working.
Swez
PS It is good that you understand high end HT applications already. That will make this process much easier than if a total audio novice. May I also say you are one swell Dad for making the effort to do this for your daughter. CLAP to you Steve!
wilee-coyote on 05/17/2004 10:47:31
I am leaning toward just one Infinity Perfect 12.1 dual 4+4 sub that will pull at 2 ohms. It is rated at 350 RMS and 1400 Peak. I will be making a sealed enclosure myself that will be exactly 1.0 cf as recommended by Infinity.
I did use the JustAmps site as a reference and submitted price matches for the following 3 AMPs. They were all approved so now it's decision time. The 8.0:4 75watts x 4 (matched at $206.99), the 5.0:1 momo sub is 300watts @ 2 ohms (and matched at $216.59) and the 9.0:5 which is 50x4 and 300x1 @ 2 ohms matched at $286.69.
So my choices are really the 8.0:4 and the 5.0:1 for $423.58 or the 9.0:5 for $286.69. The two amp set-up provides 25 more watts to each speaker and more flexibility and a dedicated mono sub while the 5-channel provides a simpler install and a savings of $136.89.
One final option would be the 8.0:4 and the 4.0:2 as you suggested. Combined they will be about $335 but the sub will get 250 watts instead of 300 and it is not a class D amp (see I was listening earlier teacher!).
You've been a tremendous help and I will most definitely be making a donation when it's all said and done. Thanks for the compliment on being a good Dad. I had my daughter when I was only 18 and her Mother left us when she was 5. I've been Mr. Mom for 13 years now and she is a terrific kid. She shows no disrespect, never gets in trouble, good grades, no drinking, no smoking, has her own jobe makes her own car payments. She deserves this but thanks it helps to hear every once in a while....
I look forward to your continued recommendations on my Amp selection...
Steve
wilee-coyote on 05/17/2004 11:00:09
One last thing. The more I look at the 4.0:2 it might be a great option for the sub. According to the specs it is rated at 4-ohm Bridged: 250 watts x 1. Does that mean I could not use it with a single Infinity Perfect 12.1 dual 4?
Steve
uochronos on 05/17/2004 15:43:23
wiuth the 4.0:2 you would need a 2+2 ohm sub. i belive infinity makes dual 4 and a dual 2. but im not 100% sure have not dealt with them in some time. hmm i just checked and it looks like they make a 12.1 that is a single 4 ohm voice coil this would work with this sub. may i also suggest the JBL BP300.1 for your sub amp its a very potent amp and can be had for under 145$ shipped. the jble 300.1 well probaly have a bit more power then the octane 5.0:1 and a bit cheaper too. just a suggestion though
swez on 05/17/2004 18:29:16
The Octane 9.0:5 is your best value here and as I see it, there is not a huge sonic difference between 50 or 75 watts RMS amplification. (~+1.5 dB gain/ch., using the the 75 watt, 4 channel VS the 9.0:5) Not a lot of extra gain for the money involved here.
As you say, simplicity of installing only 1 amp for everything is a plus as well. That's up to your choice. Also, there is very little sonic output difference between 250 and 300 watts RMS to single sub. (less than 1dB of bass SPL here)
However, if you go ported with the sub of choice, you will pick up ~+3dB from porting. Tune the port at say 38 Hz., and it will sound very good in this vehicle. A ported enclosure is only slightly larger than sealed. Just a matter of getting the tuning port specs right along with the enclosure calulations.
In this application (R9.0:5) you need a 2 ohm load. That means a 4+4 DVC, wired full parallel to the sub amp. The 250 watts is more than adequate, even though the sub can take more... still fine. You can go with Infinity Kappa 120.3 (4+4 DVC) or Perfect 12.1d (also 4+4) DVC. The listed prices at SD are very high. A little shopping can get them down a bit. The Infinity Reference 1232W is also a good choice and now comes in 4+4 DVC configuration. A lot cheaper, rated for 250 RMS and everybit as capable as his bigger brothers at much lower cost. I've seen this one under $99.00 as well.
1. Infinity Kappa 120.3 $129.00
http://www.infinitecaraudio.com/cgi-bin/icastore.cgi?user_action=detail&catalogno=KAPPA1203DVC
2. Infinity Perfect 12. 1 DVC $189.00
http://www.infinitecaraudio.com/cgi-bin/icastore.cgi?user_action=detail&catalogno=PERFECT121DVC
3. Infinity Reference 1232W 4+4 DVC $89.00
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=13354
Also, consider the Alpine SWS or SWR series subs. These are also SQ/SPL subs and very much on par with Infinity subs, but generally cheaper as well.
4. Alpine SWR-1241d (4+4 ohms DVC) $100.00 http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?icatid=369&stk_code=alpswr1241d&svbname=30
Specs: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-DIPdQIglOAF/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?a=&s=0&cc=01&g=67700&id=features_and_specs&i=
500SWR1241
===========================================
That about covers quality subs in power range, lower prices, SQ/SPL and 4+4 DVC configuration. The Infinity Perfect is a very good sub. But I would not hesitate to use any of the other subs listed where a 2 ohm load is needed and 250-300 watts of power is available.
The best value of the bunch is the Alpine 1241d. No slouch here on performance either. Very similar to Infinity Kappa subs and a bit cheaper as well.
Hope that helps more than confuses,
Swez
wilee-coyote on 05/17/2004 21:32:30
The 9.0:5 it is.....brbrWell you should know by now I've already found the subs at www.etronics.com and price matched them with SD. The 12.1d is only going to run $133, I have listened to the Alpine and before I found the Infinity for $133 the Alpine was my choice. My daughter has been listening to her friends JL sub and she really likes it. That is a great sub but quite a bit more money.brbrIf she really wants the JL then I told her she may have to pay for the sub herself and I'll get everything else. Ideally she would like to get two 10" subs. If I get them it will be one 12.1d dual coil, if she pays for them she wants to get two 10" subs. If she gets two 10" subs should they be single coils to keep the impedence correct or should they be 10" DVC?br
swez on 05/18/2004 00:47:19
With the Octane R 9.0:5, if she really wants a pair of 10's, you'll have to go with a pair of 4 ohm SVC subs in parallel or a pair of 2+2 DVC's for that amp. It will cost more, be a larger box... but she can always add a larger sub amp later to drive a pair of dual 10's to full potential.
I did see Alpine 10's for under $85.00/each somewhere... let's look:
Yep... here we are:
http://www.pcplusltd.com/pcplus/product.asp?lMainCategoryID=145&lcategoryID=82&lProductID=92756 $83.00 each, 300 RMS per sub, 2+2 DVC... ported or sealed
SPECS: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-KSB5cFzlsCa/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?a=&s=0&cc=01&g=67700&id=features_and_specs&i=500SWS1222
These are very well priced subs and a pair of 10's in a 2+2 configuration will net a 2 ohm load when wired Serie/Parallel.
That'll work and she can always add a larger sub amp later if she wants more bass.
Swez
wilee-coyote on 05/18/2004 17:34:37
I think we're getting very close to putting an order together. One last question regarding the Amplifier (or Amplifiers). The head unit she has is an Alpine CDA-7864 with 2 preouts (1 for front and 1 for rear/subwoofer). How do I correctly hook up the front speakers, the rear speakers, and the sub(s). Especially if I decide to spring for two amps. Do I use the front preout for the 4 channel amp and the rear/sub preout for the subwoofer amp? The 9.0:5 has three sets of inputs (front/rear/sub). If we go with that AMP do I still use both sets of preouts and if so do I connect the front to the front inout and the rear/sub to the sub input?
Thanks again!
Steve
uochronos on 05/19/2004 05:07:45
the 4 channel i belive well take 4 rcs left/right front and left/right rear. so i would plug all 4 into the 4 channel amp. then the amp most likly well have output RCA jack run those to the sub woofer amp.... thats how i ran my amps before i got a EQ/crossover unit. and it worked fine that way.
swez on 05/19/2004 10:54:15
There are a few options here you can use:
1. Run all 4 RCA out to 4 channel segment of amp and use a pair of "Y" connectors off Rear RCA's from HU to split signal to rear and sub input RCA's. The "Y" splitters have 1 female RCA, and 2 male RCA's per set. These are available at WalMart, Target and most AV stores like CC or BB... cheap! You will need two sets.
This: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=240-125
2. A more expensive approach would be to use a line driver with 4 channels inputs and 5/6 channels out. These offer RCA signal preamps and boost RCA signals from HU to amp for best noise rejection. Not cheap either.
This: http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/PHOTLD66
The "Y" cables are usually adequate for most applications if the HU has a 4.0 volt or more RCA output range.
Swez
wilee-coyote on 05/19/2004 14:19:55
Well I really wasn't sure... I will either run all 4 to the 4-channel as uochronos suggests and then out from the 4-channel to the sub amp, or I will use the y cables. I am familiar with the y cables as I have two subwoofers in my home stereo and only one LF output from the reciever. The y adapter allowed me to send the signal to both subs. Never even thought of that solution here.
Thanks guys!
Steve
swez on 05/19/2004 19:31:15
From what I see on this amp (9.0:5) you have 4 channels for interior speakers and 1 or 2 channels for the sub. There is no preamp outs on this amp to daisy chain amps together.
The "Y" cables are your best option in terms of price if there is enough HU voltage out of the "Y" splitters to drive each amp input.
Swez
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