Is there any source out there to look up the manufacturer and specs on a 20001 Honda Civic EX factory head unit?
Replies (16)
ttocs on 05/4/2004 22:17:16
what are you wanting to know? I can tell you the factory keyless entry unit is mounted to the deck.........
Buffalo on 05/4/2004 22:47:47
My son is trying to put together a system for the car a chunk at a time and was wanting to know whether it would be logical to delay the purchase of a new head and put the money into better speakers and/or amps. So I'm looking for whatever specs are available. I was hoping there was someplace on line that posted that sort of stuff. We are also wondering whether it has pre-outs or not.
uochronos on 05/4/2004 23:08:33
even if it has not preouts it still can be used for after amrket speakerrs and amps. you can get converters that well convert the speaker wires to preouts they are fairly reasonable i bought a pair for 12$ the other day. the basis for any good system well be the HU (head unit) though i personaly always start any system with a good HU but this step can be put off ig\f you are going to amp the speakers and dont need any of the options on a the after market HU's such as eq, and crossover and all that.
swez on 05/5/2004 07:34:59
The best initial investment will be new aftermarket speakers. The stock speakers in most non-premium sound systems are very cheap and limited frequency range.
Most OEM HU's do not have RCA pre-outs. However, as mentioned, a good add on Line out converter will allow him to add amplification for full range and sub, if he so chooses. The addition of outboard amps to drive internal speakers are superior to HU amping power. Most factory HU's have between 8-15 watts per channel. Adding a 50-60 watt x 4 channel amp will make his stereo sound much better than stock with good speakers.
Line out converters (LOC) will convert speaker level voltages to RCA levels and then he can wire in his amp(s). This is one of the better ones on the market today.
Product ID: N-774V Category: Adaptor Products
N-774V
Description: The N-774V is a high quality four-channel OEM to aftermarket stereo adaptor that was designed to connect the speaker level output of a factory type deck into the pre-amp level of an equalizer, xover, or amplifier. The signal level can be adjusted from a maximum of 9.5 volts rms down to zero volts. This is a great feature for optimizing the S/N of system and a must for competition or demo systems. Turning the knob clockwise increses the signal level. At the amplifier/speaker we recommend a 1:3 gain structure for most systems. The N-774V features full transformer isolation with maximum useable signal level which means more signal and less noise. The N-774V includes compensation for both frequency and phase with no loss of bass or treble. The maximum signal level output of the N-774V is 9.5 volts per channel.
Price: $34.95
http://www.davidnavone.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=N-774V
Swez
Buffalo on 05/5/2004 08:34:11
Thanks everybody for the replies. I was trying to get him into the mindset of limiting the amount he does for the budget he's got right now and using better components but he seems to have his heart set on a Clarion reciever so he's probably going to go that way. I've spent a considerable amount of time trying to find specs on the factory Honda units to no avail. I would imagine that they use different units depending on local but still I was hoping to find some source for the info.
swez on 05/5/2004 09:59:09
I checked E-bay for any stock HU's used for this car to no avail. So what you have is nothing special and the results reflect same. Even premium sound systems like Bose and Infinity are found lacking in factory stock installs. Compared to the prices they charge for Premium Factory gear, aftermarket components are generally superior in performance, VS price paid for Factory upgrade systems.
It is good to take things like this in small bites initially. But having an overall plan for the end result is best. Knowing what he wants in the end, then working backward from that point is a very good strategy.
Yes, a good aftermarket HU is definitely a step he will want to take into consideration. That's the main platform he will be working from til the end. Budget and features required are something he needs to consider now. (before he buys) The HU should have at least 4 RCA outs, (one for each channel) if he plans to add amps later. (or just a modest sub)
Stock speakers for now, are OK... but he will not get the full benefit of a new HU without upgrading to decent full range speakers. The front speakers have the most impact, while the rear speakers fill in the gaps. Adding a modest sub later, will bring the whole system to a new level of Hi Fi. A sub will add that last 1.5 octaves missing in most stock systems and 2-way speakers in front will give much better full range performance than stock ever could.
It's not a bad idea to install a new HU first. But the full benefits from doing this now, will not be fully realized until he gets some decent speakers installed.
Finally, Clarion does make some nice gear as does Pioneer, Alpine and a few others. Just depends on the features he desires and the $$ he has at hand. Some carefull shopping on the Web, will help sort out the winners from the dogs. We can make some suggestions if you care to share some budget numbers.
Swez
PS Crutchfield is a very good place to start a search... but they do tend to be high on prices in certain lines. Their Customer Service, Tech Support and product selections are excellent. But you pay more for all the overhead too.
ttocs on 05/5/2004 10:04:48
Does he have keyless entry in the car? If he does and he pulls the deck, he will loose it. the only way to fix this solution is to get a t-hrns, and mount the deck down inside the dash, turned off. I don't know if this is a do-it-yourself deck install. I could get you through it but it is not the easiest. Start with a nice easy sub install first and work your way up.....
Buffalo on 05/6/2004 08:51:28
ttocs could you elaborate on losing the keyless entry and what is a t-hms? what are the alternatives that would keep the keyless entry working?
ttocs on 05/6/2004 13:07:25
the factory keyless entry is mounted to the radio.. If you pull the radio out, you pull the keyless out. There is a method where you use a hrns that keeps the factory radio in the car(tucked up behind the dash), and wires an after market radio in the factory location. Takes a little more time but is not too bad.
Buffalo on 05/6/2004 16:35:50
ttocs, forgive my newbie status but what is an hms?
Raefin on 05/6/2004 17:03:43
It is actually HRNS or harness shorthand.
swez on 05/6/2004 17:25:19
Ttocks,
Is it possible to isolate the keyless entry circuit in the stock HU, remove it and hardwire only that circuit into the cavity?
Swez
ttocs on 05/7/2004 16:26:42
you could try, but that would be more trouble then burying it in the dash. It takes some work(cussing really) but it will fit. If I remember it is riveted to the radio chassis........
Buffalo on 05/10/2004 08:03:32
Thanks again guys. He kind of shrugged his shoulders when I told him about the keyless entry. Of course he does that to a lot of the things I tell him so I'm not sure what that means. Anyway. Everything is bought now and we are waiting for it to get here and planning our little hearts out. Next big decision is how and where to mount the 4 channel amp he bought (Audiobahn 4x50) and the distribution block. He will be adding a sub box and amp when money allows so we are going to do all the hidden wiring for that now. We bought a 4ga wiring kit for 2 amps from Sounddomain. We start this weekend.
swez on 05/10/2004 09:56:06
Good start... when running speaker and Power feed line, keep the RCA signal wires on the opposite side of the vehicle to prevent noise intrusion to amps.
Your power line will run from POS post on BAT, to a fuse block. Try to keep the fuse block close to the BAT (18" or less) as this will protect the BAT, ALT and wires in the event of a short to ground by power line. The fuse choice is amp dependent... but an 80A., fuse should be more than adequate for most dual amp setups. If you don't have one now, WalMart, CC or BB has them. Make sure the fuse block accepts #4 wires.
As for running your power line back to amps, start looking for a knock out plug on the firewall to get your wire from the engine compartment to the interior of the car. There is often a knockout near the brake pedal (where a clutch pedal) would be if a manual transmission were used. You can also look for existing wire feeds that might yield a large enough opening forthe wire. You need a grommet for the wire to pass through, so the wire is not chaffed by sharp metal. Last option would be to drill a hole in the firewall to pass the wire through that way.
CAUTION: KNOW WHERE YOU ARE DRILLING SO THAT NO DAMAGE IS DONE TO EXSISTING COMPONENTS ON EITHER SIDE OF THE FIREWALL.
More details to follow and Kit or ttocs can advise possible locations for your power feed line.
Swez
Buffalo on 05/10/2004 12:29:21
Swez,
Thanks for all the advice. I'm going to start confining my answers to the other thread from here on out but..... I've ordered what in my business we call a bulkhead fitting for 4 ga to go through the firewall incase we don't find anything else. It's waterproof so it should work well.
Replies (16)
ttocs on 05/4/2004 22:17:16
what are you wanting to know? I can tell you the factory keyless entry unit is mounted to the deck.........
Buffalo on 05/4/2004 22:47:47
My son is trying to put together a system for the car a chunk at a time and was wanting to know whether it would be logical to delay the purchase of a new head and put the money into better speakers and/or amps. So I'm looking for whatever specs are available. I was hoping there was someplace on line that posted that sort of stuff. We are also wondering whether it has pre-outs or not.
uochronos on 05/4/2004 23:08:33
even if it has not preouts it still can be used for after amrket speakerrs and amps. you can get converters that well convert the speaker wires to preouts they are fairly reasonable i bought a pair for 12$ the other day. the basis for any good system well be the HU (head unit) though i personaly always start any system with a good HU but this step can be put off ig\f you are going to amp the speakers and dont need any of the options on a the after market HU's such as eq, and crossover and all that.
swez on 05/5/2004 07:34:59
The best initial investment will be new aftermarket speakers. The stock speakers in most non-premium sound systems are very cheap and limited frequency range.
Most OEM HU's do not have RCA pre-outs. However, as mentioned, a good add on Line out converter will allow him to add amplification for full range and sub, if he so chooses. The addition of outboard amps to drive internal speakers are superior to HU amping power. Most factory HU's have between 8-15 watts per channel. Adding a 50-60 watt x 4 channel amp will make his stereo sound much better than stock with good speakers.
Line out converters (LOC) will convert speaker level voltages to RCA levels and then he can wire in his amp(s). This is one of the better ones on the market today.
Product ID: N-774V Category: Adaptor Products
N-774V
Description: The N-774V is a high quality four-channel OEM to aftermarket stereo adaptor that was designed to connect the speaker level output of a factory type deck into the pre-amp level of an equalizer, xover, or amplifier. The signal level can be adjusted from a maximum of 9.5 volts rms down to zero volts. This is a great feature for optimizing the S/N of system and a must for competition or demo systems. Turning the knob clockwise increses the signal level. At the amplifier/speaker we recommend a 1:3 gain structure for most systems. The N-774V features full transformer isolation with maximum useable signal level which means more signal and less noise. The N-774V includes compensation for both frequency and phase with no loss of bass or treble. The maximum signal level output of the N-774V is 9.5 volts per channel.
Price: $34.95
http://www.davidnavone.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=N-774V
Swez
Buffalo on 05/5/2004 08:34:11
Thanks everybody for the replies. I was trying to get him into the mindset of limiting the amount he does for the budget he's got right now and using better components but he seems to have his heart set on a Clarion reciever so he's probably going to go that way. I've spent a considerable amount of time trying to find specs on the factory Honda units to no avail. I would imagine that they use different units depending on local but still I was hoping to find some source for the info.
swez on 05/5/2004 09:59:09
I checked E-bay for any stock HU's used for this car to no avail. So what you have is nothing special and the results reflect same. Even premium sound systems like Bose and Infinity are found lacking in factory stock installs. Compared to the prices they charge for Premium Factory gear, aftermarket components are generally superior in performance, VS price paid for Factory upgrade systems.
It is good to take things like this in small bites initially. But having an overall plan for the end result is best. Knowing what he wants in the end, then working backward from that point is a very good strategy.
Yes, a good aftermarket HU is definitely a step he will want to take into consideration. That's the main platform he will be working from til the end. Budget and features required are something he needs to consider now. (before he buys) The HU should have at least 4 RCA outs, (one for each channel) if he plans to add amps later. (or just a modest sub)
Stock speakers for now, are OK... but he will not get the full benefit of a new HU without upgrading to decent full range speakers. The front speakers have the most impact, while the rear speakers fill in the gaps. Adding a modest sub later, will bring the whole system to a new level of Hi Fi. A sub will add that last 1.5 octaves missing in most stock systems and 2-way speakers in front will give much better full range performance than stock ever could.
It's not a bad idea to install a new HU first. But the full benefits from doing this now, will not be fully realized until he gets some decent speakers installed.
Finally, Clarion does make some nice gear as does Pioneer, Alpine and a few others. Just depends on the features he desires and the $$ he has at hand. Some carefull shopping on the Web, will help sort out the winners from the dogs. We can make some suggestions if you care to share some budget numbers.
Swez
PS Crutchfield is a very good place to start a search... but they do tend to be high on prices in certain lines. Their Customer Service, Tech Support and product selections are excellent. But you pay more for all the overhead too.
ttocs on 05/5/2004 10:04:48
Does he have keyless entry in the car? If he does and he pulls the deck, he will loose it. the only way to fix this solution is to get a t-hrns, and mount the deck down inside the dash, turned off. I don't know if this is a do-it-yourself deck install. I could get you through it but it is not the easiest. Start with a nice easy sub install first and work your way up.....
Buffalo on 05/6/2004 08:51:28
ttocs could you elaborate on losing the keyless entry and what is a t-hms? what are the alternatives that would keep the keyless entry working?
ttocs on 05/6/2004 13:07:25
the factory keyless entry is mounted to the radio.. If you pull the radio out, you pull the keyless out. There is a method where you use a hrns that keeps the factory radio in the car(tucked up behind the dash), and wires an after market radio in the factory location. Takes a little more time but is not too bad.
Buffalo on 05/6/2004 16:35:50
ttocs, forgive my newbie status but what is an hms?
Raefin on 05/6/2004 17:03:43
It is actually HRNS or harness shorthand.
swez on 05/6/2004 17:25:19
Ttocks,
Is it possible to isolate the keyless entry circuit in the stock HU, remove it and hardwire only that circuit into the cavity?
Swez
ttocs on 05/7/2004 16:26:42
you could try, but that would be more trouble then burying it in the dash. It takes some work(cussing really) but it will fit. If I remember it is riveted to the radio chassis........
Buffalo on 05/10/2004 08:03:32
Thanks again guys. He kind of shrugged his shoulders when I told him about the keyless entry. Of course he does that to a lot of the things I tell him so I'm not sure what that means. Anyway. Everything is bought now and we are waiting for it to get here and planning our little hearts out. Next big decision is how and where to mount the 4 channel amp he bought (Audiobahn 4x50) and the distribution block. He will be adding a sub box and amp when money allows so we are going to do all the hidden wiring for that now. We bought a 4ga wiring kit for 2 amps from Sounddomain. We start this weekend.
swez on 05/10/2004 09:56:06
Good start... when running speaker and Power feed line, keep the RCA signal wires on the opposite side of the vehicle to prevent noise intrusion to amps.
Your power line will run from POS post on BAT, to a fuse block. Try to keep the fuse block close to the BAT (18" or less) as this will protect the BAT, ALT and wires in the event of a short to ground by power line. The fuse choice is amp dependent... but an 80A., fuse should be more than adequate for most dual amp setups. If you don't have one now, WalMart, CC or BB has them. Make sure the fuse block accepts #4 wires.
As for running your power line back to amps, start looking for a knock out plug on the firewall to get your wire from the engine compartment to the interior of the car. There is often a knockout near the brake pedal (where a clutch pedal) would be if a manual transmission were used. You can also look for existing wire feeds that might yield a large enough opening forthe wire. You need a grommet for the wire to pass through, so the wire is not chaffed by sharp metal. Last option would be to drill a hole in the firewall to pass the wire through that way.
CAUTION: KNOW WHERE YOU ARE DRILLING SO THAT NO DAMAGE IS DONE TO EXSISTING COMPONENTS ON EITHER SIDE OF THE FIREWALL.
More details to follow and Kit or ttocs can advise possible locations for your power feed line.
Swez
Buffalo on 05/10/2004 12:29:21
Swez,
Thanks for all the advice. I'm going to start confining my answers to the other thread from here on out but..... I've ordered what in my business we call a bulkhead fitting for 4 ga to go through the firewall incase we don't find anything else. It's waterproof so it should work well.
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