I have 2 Sony 12" subwoofers at 900 watts each in my trunk and I have 2 JBL 6.5" speakers at 135 watts each in the front. I have a Kenwood 1000 watt AMP hooked up to the Subs in the back and a Sony 444 watt AMP on the front 2. This is all coming off of my car's battery. It seems to be to much as my headlights dim at night when the subs reach the peak.
Should I resort to another power sorce?
If so, what should I do?
Help would be really appreciated
Thanks
Replies (5)
uochronos on 05/2/2004 23:54:23
get a high out put alternator this well solve the problem these can be found on ebay for realativly inexpensive.. i got a 200amp alternator for 199$ you most likly only need 150amp maybe a bit smaller. this is the best solution to fix your problem though
swez on 05/3/2004 00:41:57
Agreed... this is a common issue with larger sub amps. They do draw large amount of current at bass note peaks. You can try a few tricks to get past this problem, but the most effective one is a larger ALT.
1. You can start at the Battery. A larger CCA rated battery acts like a large current buffer and will suppliment low powered ALTs with greater reserve current. A stock BAT is 450 -600 CCA rated current. If you upgrade to an 800-900 CCA BAT, this should help the light dimming a lot.
2. Next, upgrading the power feed lines between the ALT/BAT, BAT/GND and grounding strap will allow more current flow and less restrictions. Stock wiring is normally #6 or #8 gage wiring. Dropping to #4 gage wires in these areas will help. (New wire KIT)
3. Also, what gage power line is running back to your amps now? A #4 power feed and ground will transfer more power and offer less voltage drop to your amps. (less dimming)
4. If all else fails, a larger ALT will definitely help. Something that can produce 150A., of current is better than a stock unit that does 80 or less amperes of current.
5. Finally, please note that ALTs have a low output value at idle. Once the RPMs are above ~1500, the output of the ALT is near MAX. One can change the pulley to a smaller diameter so that more ATL RPM is obtained at lower engine RPM.
Comments?
Swez
Sandead on 05/3/2004 14:11:41
I have a #4 gage wire running to both AMPs. I think Im going to go with the better ALT and hope that it solves my problem.
Ill try ebay first and see what kind of deal I can get on there.
You gotta love ebay.
Thanks alot for all the info.
You guys have been a big help.
uochronos on 05/3/2004 14:23:31
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2477136108&category=33573
this looks like it may work for your car but you well need to email the seller. good price fro a 165amp alternator though
swez on 05/4/2004 18:25:04
That's a winner if it will fit into your existing location. Also, you may want to upgrade the power wiring ALT/BAT, BAT/GND and GND strap to get the most current flow from your new HO ALT.
Most OEM wiring is #6-10 gage, depending on the vehicle. A #4 gage wire kit should be adequate for this application.
Good luck!
Swez
PS One thing good about this HO ALT, you have enough power to run your amps off 1 battery and use your regular car battery for car start and accesssories. This will never starve your system for power.
Should I resort to another power sorce?
If so, what should I do?
Help would be really appreciated
Thanks
Replies (5)
uochronos on 05/2/2004 23:54:23
get a high out put alternator this well solve the problem these can be found on ebay for realativly inexpensive.. i got a 200amp alternator for 199$ you most likly only need 150amp maybe a bit smaller. this is the best solution to fix your problem though
swez on 05/3/2004 00:41:57
Agreed... this is a common issue with larger sub amps. They do draw large amount of current at bass note peaks. You can try a few tricks to get past this problem, but the most effective one is a larger ALT.
1. You can start at the Battery. A larger CCA rated battery acts like a large current buffer and will suppliment low powered ALTs with greater reserve current. A stock BAT is 450 -600 CCA rated current. If you upgrade to an 800-900 CCA BAT, this should help the light dimming a lot.
2. Next, upgrading the power feed lines between the ALT/BAT, BAT/GND and grounding strap will allow more current flow and less restrictions. Stock wiring is normally #6 or #8 gage wiring. Dropping to #4 gage wires in these areas will help. (New wire KIT)
3. Also, what gage power line is running back to your amps now? A #4 power feed and ground will transfer more power and offer less voltage drop to your amps. (less dimming)
4. If all else fails, a larger ALT will definitely help. Something that can produce 150A., of current is better than a stock unit that does 80 or less amperes of current.
5. Finally, please note that ALTs have a low output value at idle. Once the RPMs are above ~1500, the output of the ALT is near MAX. One can change the pulley to a smaller diameter so that more ATL RPM is obtained at lower engine RPM.
Comments?
Swez
Sandead on 05/3/2004 14:11:41
I have a #4 gage wire running to both AMPs. I think Im going to go with the better ALT and hope that it solves my problem.
Ill try ebay first and see what kind of deal I can get on there.
You gotta love ebay.
Thanks alot for all the info.
You guys have been a big help.
uochronos on 05/3/2004 14:23:31
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2477136108&category=33573
this looks like it may work for your car but you well need to email the seller. good price fro a 165amp alternator though
swez on 05/4/2004 18:25:04
That's a winner if it will fit into your existing location. Also, you may want to upgrade the power wiring ALT/BAT, BAT/GND and GND strap to get the most current flow from your new HO ALT.
Most OEM wiring is #6-10 gage, depending on the vehicle. A #4 gage wire kit should be adequate for this application.
Good luck!
Swez
PS One thing good about this HO ALT, you have enough power to run your amps off 1 battery and use your regular car battery for car start and accesssories. This will never starve your system for power.
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