What a great forum! I just bought a '94 Mustang GT convertible (great time of year here in SC to drive it!), and it came with an Alpine CDA-7965 CD unit (not changer, but head). Right now it does not have the Mach 460 speaker system - it has some sorry front and rear speakers.
My brother has some Clarion component speakers that I will probably buy and put in the front, but he only has one set of 2. I am trying my best to come out as inexpensively as I can with this setup, but I want it to sound good.
Would it be wise at all to put in another decent set of 5 x 7s (non-component) speakers in the back with these components in the front? I am also thinking of buying a JBL BP150.1 amp for about $80 to hook a sub or subs to.
I'm not a stereophile, but I have hooked up some systems in the recent past. I'm debating whether I would need to just run the components off the head unit and not put in another amp other than the JBL BP150.1, but if I need another inexpensive amp, I'll get it. Do I need to beef up the electrical system with these amps?
Believe me, ANY help would be GREATLY appreciated before I start to set this up. I want some decent thump out of a sub, but I don't need the car to rock, so the JBL amp should be fine for me.
Thanks very much for a great site!
Barry
Jeremiah 29:11
Replies (13)
asplundher on 04/16/2004 14:50:25
There are a vast array of front and rears to choose from so I suggest searching around for some of the same series for both to get the most tonal quality.
As far as the JBL 150.1, It may do okay with a low powered (200rms max) dual 4 ohm sub, but I doubt it will have enough power to add another. Perhaps if you can splurge a little more on the JBL 300.1, you will be better equipped for a sub upgrade later.
cplkittle on 04/17/2004 08:36:24
I would personally stick with Alpine. The '04 models in the type S series are some very clean heavy hitting components and coaxials. I think almost all models are around $115 MSRP. The subs have equally impressed me as well.
swez on 04/17/2004 10:24:59
An older model Alpine HU here... circa 1998 or so. From my diggings, it looks like you will need outboard amps for this HU as it is only a preamp and has no internal amps.
There are 3 pairs of RCA outs:
Front: L&R Full range
Rear: L&R Full range
Sub outs Probably LP filter
You may want to contact Alpine USA and get a DL copy of this HU tolearn what it can do and how it all works.
http://www.alpine-usa.com
==========================================
The Basics:
Alpine CDA 7965 CD Receiver
Product Specifications
- Multi CD Shuttle Control.
- 1 Disc DV-S Mechanism.
- 8x Oversampling.
- CD Text, CD Text Display, CD Text Scroll.
- CD-R Compatibility.
- 3-Position HP/LP Crossover (12dB/Oct.).
- 3 PreOuts.
- Anti-Theft Detachable Front Panel.
- Gold-Plated RCA Connectors.
- Wireless Remote Control.
- Preset Stations (FM:12/AM:6/DAP:6).
==========================================
The Comp speakers (Clarion) would be a good choice up front. As for the rears... 5x7 format will deliver only midrange & highs. Too small a package to get much low end performance from this size driver. Good for ambient fill in rear though.
A 4 channel amp will be required to drive the interior speakers. How much power and features you need, depends on the power handling of the speakers you choose. Many of us like the USB-4065 from US Acoustics. Low price, very good performance and features for under $150.00. This amp is a bit under rated, so it will deliver a tad more than 65 watts (RMS) x 4 channels. (max current draw: 35A)
SPECS: http://www.usacoustics.com/2004/usb4065%20specs.htm
Shop for: http://www.usacoustics.com/2004/audio%20products%20dealers.htm
=========================================
The Sub Engine:
A single 10" or 12" sub is adequate here. Alpine, Infinity, JBL and Kicker are all possible choices. To get the most power from the JBL 150.1 or 300.1, you'll need a DVC model that can be wired for 2 ohms.
The 150.1 & 300.1 are nice, compact amps. These models are Class D type, MONO and very efficient use of power. (~90% eff factor)
http://www.sounddomain.com/shoplist~b~JBL~t~Subwoofer+Mono+Amps for details and prices.
The only real differences between the 2 amps noted is power output and power consumption. The 150.1 is fused @ 20A, The 300.1 is fused at 2 x 20A.
===========================================
Have a look around at the links noted for more details and such. Once you have a buy list in mind, come back and we'll help you with getting into the install phase.
Have fun,
Swez
mrstangblb on 04/19/2004 11:02:42
All this information sounds great. I do have a physical copy of the manual, so I have all of the wiring diagrams, etc. for the HU. I just ordered the 150.1 mainly because I won't be doing anything else later on to make it thump - this should be plenty!
By the way, the 150.1 was $77.99 shipped at CarToys.com. I thought that was an excellent price. I have my brother's Clarion components on hand. They seem to be 5-1/4" speakers. Any ideas on good ways to make them fit into the 6 x 8 spot? I'll separate the tweeters and put them up in the triangle covering the side mirror mounting bolts. I just need to figure out how to make the 5-1/4" rounds fit into the existing 6 x 8 spot. Any help there would be greatly appreciated as well...
mrstangblb on 04/19/2004 11:08:44
...and do I REALLY need an amp for the four speakers? I'll have the Clarion components up front, maybe some Pioneer 220W speakers in back, and the 150.1 driving a single sub in the back. I don't know what I'm going to do about mounting a sub - I don't really want to put it in the trunk, but I don't want to do any chopping to put one in, either. I may put it in a box to just lay in the back seat - that way I can take it out and put it in the trunk as needed so nobody will steal it. I doubt it would kick well enough to leave in the trunk all the time (my brother's got his sub in the trunk and he can't really hear it well with the top down).
I know a separate amp for the 4 speakers would be optimal, but like I said... I'm trying to get away as inexpensively as I can right now. I might add an amp later on for the 4 speakers.
swez on 04/19/2004 12:00:21
You have no other options with that HU. IT DOES NOT HAVE ANY INTERNAL AMPLIFIERS according my research.
As for mounting the 5/4"s in a 6x8 opening, yes, make/buy an adapter plate that allows you to convert from one format to another.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-8Ig0P8W60IZ/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?s=0&c=11&g=103200&I=142SA68&o=p&a=0&cc=01&avf=N
About mounting your sub... yes, you can mount the sub enclosure in the trunk or leave it on the rear seat. Trunk mounts are safer and more secure. You will get the low end bump, but not as loud as one mounted inside the vehicle.
Finally, If you keep your Ford Stock radio, it usually has amplifiers to power interior speakers. If it does not have CD player, can always add an RF style CD player that plays CD's through your radio tuner. Using the rear speaker line taps to power your sub amp is an option with JBL amps. You will not need a REMOTE power line to turn on the sub amp as JBL has signal sensing circuits on the high level inputs that will turn the amp on when signals are present at the rear speakers.
Swez
mrstangblb on 04/19/2004 12:12:06
Thanks very much!
swez on 04/19/2004 15:17:44
You are most welcome!
There is one option we did not discuss... that would be to use a 2 channel amp where the RF & RR are powered by one amp channel. The other side... same deal.
The only problem with this approach is that you will have no fade control (front to rear) speaker balancing. Most 2 channel amps are cheaper and will deliver more bang for the buck when run at 2 ohms per channel. However, the rear speakers tend to overpower the front speakers when doing this configuration. But there are ways to bring down the volume on the rear channel as well. It's called an L-pad. Basically, a volume control for each rear speaker will do the job.
Swez
mrstangblb on 04/19/2004 15:27:45
It's possible that I may even go with a Bazooka passive amp tube in the back for ease of taking in and out of the car.
swez on 04/19/2004 15:44:10
That works as would Infinity power sub or JBL powered sub packages.
Infinity Basslink: http://www.justwoofers.com/Woofer_Pages/Infinity/infinity_BassLink.htm
JBL Bass Pro:
http://www.justwoofers.com/Woofer_Pages/JBL/JBL_basspro.htm
Misc Bazooka and other powered subs:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-kGwntAbcZnJ/cgi-bin/prodgroup.asp?s=0&cc=01&g=51000&est=&search=Subwoofers
ttocs on 04/19/2004 17:07:29
if that is a premuim sound system I can get you around it.....
mrstangblb on 04/19/2004 17:15:06
The problem is it's not a premium sound system (not a Mach 460). The Alpine unit is hooked up to 4 apparently OEM speakers, and they distort if you turn it up much at all to hear it over the wind noise with the top down right now.
swez on 04/19/2004 21:39:58
Yep... road noise in a rag top is high when driving. Amping the system will help... but you are in an open air environment where sound cannot be contained well. Especially at highway speeds.
It's kinda like an outdoor concert with road/wind noise added to the mix. Takes a fair amout of watts (SPL) to overcome that road noise in an open air environment. No containment here, until you park it or pull the top up.
Swez
My brother has some Clarion component speakers that I will probably buy and put in the front, but he only has one set of 2. I am trying my best to come out as inexpensively as I can with this setup, but I want it to sound good.
Would it be wise at all to put in another decent set of 5 x 7s (non-component) speakers in the back with these components in the front? I am also thinking of buying a JBL BP150.1 amp for about $80 to hook a sub or subs to.
I'm not a stereophile, but I have hooked up some systems in the recent past. I'm debating whether I would need to just run the components off the head unit and not put in another amp other than the JBL BP150.1, but if I need another inexpensive amp, I'll get it. Do I need to beef up the electrical system with these amps?
Believe me, ANY help would be GREATLY appreciated before I start to set this up. I want some decent thump out of a sub, but I don't need the car to rock, so the JBL amp should be fine for me.
Thanks very much for a great site!
Barry
Jeremiah 29:11
Replies (13)
asplundher on 04/16/2004 14:50:25
There are a vast array of front and rears to choose from so I suggest searching around for some of the same series for both to get the most tonal quality.
As far as the JBL 150.1, It may do okay with a low powered (200rms max) dual 4 ohm sub, but I doubt it will have enough power to add another. Perhaps if you can splurge a little more on the JBL 300.1, you will be better equipped for a sub upgrade later.
cplkittle on 04/17/2004 08:36:24
I would personally stick with Alpine. The '04 models in the type S series are some very clean heavy hitting components and coaxials. I think almost all models are around $115 MSRP. The subs have equally impressed me as well.
swez on 04/17/2004 10:24:59
An older model Alpine HU here... circa 1998 or so. From my diggings, it looks like you will need outboard amps for this HU as it is only a preamp and has no internal amps.
There are 3 pairs of RCA outs:
Front: L&R Full range
Rear: L&R Full range
Sub outs Probably LP filter
You may want to contact Alpine USA and get a DL copy of this HU tolearn what it can do and how it all works.
http://www.alpine-usa.com
==========================================
The Basics:
Alpine CDA 7965 CD Receiver
Product Specifications
- Multi CD Shuttle Control.
- 1 Disc DV-S Mechanism.
- 8x Oversampling.
- CD Text, CD Text Display, CD Text Scroll.
- CD-R Compatibility.
- 3-Position HP/LP Crossover (12dB/Oct.).
- 3 PreOuts.
- Anti-Theft Detachable Front Panel.
- Gold-Plated RCA Connectors.
- Wireless Remote Control.
- Preset Stations (FM:12/AM:6/DAP:6).
==========================================
The Comp speakers (Clarion) would be a good choice up front. As for the rears... 5x7 format will deliver only midrange & highs. Too small a package to get much low end performance from this size driver. Good for ambient fill in rear though.
A 4 channel amp will be required to drive the interior speakers. How much power and features you need, depends on the power handling of the speakers you choose. Many of us like the USB-4065 from US Acoustics. Low price, very good performance and features for under $150.00. This amp is a bit under rated, so it will deliver a tad more than 65 watts (RMS) x 4 channels. (max current draw: 35A)
SPECS: http://www.usacoustics.com/2004/usb4065%20specs.htm
Shop for: http://www.usacoustics.com/2004/audio%20products%20dealers.htm
=========================================
The Sub Engine:
A single 10" or 12" sub is adequate here. Alpine, Infinity, JBL and Kicker are all possible choices. To get the most power from the JBL 150.1 or 300.1, you'll need a DVC model that can be wired for 2 ohms.
The 150.1 & 300.1 are nice, compact amps. These models are Class D type, MONO and very efficient use of power. (~90% eff factor)
http://www.sounddomain.com/shoplist~b~JBL~t~Subwoofer+Mono+Amps for details and prices.
The only real differences between the 2 amps noted is power output and power consumption. The 150.1 is fused @ 20A, The 300.1 is fused at 2 x 20A.
===========================================
Have a look around at the links noted for more details and such. Once you have a buy list in mind, come back and we'll help you with getting into the install phase.
Have fun,
Swez
mrstangblb on 04/19/2004 11:02:42
All this information sounds great. I do have a physical copy of the manual, so I have all of the wiring diagrams, etc. for the HU. I just ordered the 150.1 mainly because I won't be doing anything else later on to make it thump - this should be plenty!
By the way, the 150.1 was $77.99 shipped at CarToys.com. I thought that was an excellent price. I have my brother's Clarion components on hand. They seem to be 5-1/4" speakers. Any ideas on good ways to make them fit into the 6 x 8 spot? I'll separate the tweeters and put them up in the triangle covering the side mirror mounting bolts. I just need to figure out how to make the 5-1/4" rounds fit into the existing 6 x 8 spot. Any help there would be greatly appreciated as well...
mrstangblb on 04/19/2004 11:08:44
...and do I REALLY need an amp for the four speakers? I'll have the Clarion components up front, maybe some Pioneer 220W speakers in back, and the 150.1 driving a single sub in the back. I don't know what I'm going to do about mounting a sub - I don't really want to put it in the trunk, but I don't want to do any chopping to put one in, either. I may put it in a box to just lay in the back seat - that way I can take it out and put it in the trunk as needed so nobody will steal it. I doubt it would kick well enough to leave in the trunk all the time (my brother's got his sub in the trunk and he can't really hear it well with the top down).
I know a separate amp for the 4 speakers would be optimal, but like I said... I'm trying to get away as inexpensively as I can right now. I might add an amp later on for the 4 speakers.
swez on 04/19/2004 12:00:21
You have no other options with that HU. IT DOES NOT HAVE ANY INTERNAL AMPLIFIERS according my research.
As for mounting the 5/4"s in a 6x8 opening, yes, make/buy an adapter plate that allows you to convert from one format to another.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-8Ig0P8W60IZ/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?s=0&c=11&g=103200&I=142SA68&o=p&a=0&cc=01&avf=N
About mounting your sub... yes, you can mount the sub enclosure in the trunk or leave it on the rear seat. Trunk mounts are safer and more secure. You will get the low end bump, but not as loud as one mounted inside the vehicle.
Finally, If you keep your Ford Stock radio, it usually has amplifiers to power interior speakers. If it does not have CD player, can always add an RF style CD player that plays CD's through your radio tuner. Using the rear speaker line taps to power your sub amp is an option with JBL amps. You will not need a REMOTE power line to turn on the sub amp as JBL has signal sensing circuits on the high level inputs that will turn the amp on when signals are present at the rear speakers.
Swez
mrstangblb on 04/19/2004 12:12:06
Thanks very much!
swez on 04/19/2004 15:17:44
You are most welcome!
There is one option we did not discuss... that would be to use a 2 channel amp where the RF & RR are powered by one amp channel. The other side... same deal.
The only problem with this approach is that you will have no fade control (front to rear) speaker balancing. Most 2 channel amps are cheaper and will deliver more bang for the buck when run at 2 ohms per channel. However, the rear speakers tend to overpower the front speakers when doing this configuration. But there are ways to bring down the volume on the rear channel as well. It's called an L-pad. Basically, a volume control for each rear speaker will do the job.
Swez
mrstangblb on 04/19/2004 15:27:45
It's possible that I may even go with a Bazooka passive amp tube in the back for ease of taking in and out of the car.
swez on 04/19/2004 15:44:10
That works as would Infinity power sub or JBL powered sub packages.
Infinity Basslink: http://www.justwoofers.com/Woofer_Pages/Infinity/infinity_BassLink.htm
JBL Bass Pro:
http://www.justwoofers.com/Woofer_Pages/JBL/JBL_basspro.htm
Misc Bazooka and other powered subs:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-kGwntAbcZnJ/cgi-bin/prodgroup.asp?s=0&cc=01&g=51000&est=&search=Subwoofers
ttocs on 04/19/2004 17:07:29
if that is a premuim sound system I can get you around it.....
mrstangblb on 04/19/2004 17:15:06
The problem is it's not a premium sound system (not a Mach 460). The Alpine unit is hooked up to 4 apparently OEM speakers, and they distort if you turn it up much at all to hear it over the wind noise with the top down right now.
swez on 04/19/2004 21:39:58
Yep... road noise in a rag top is high when driving. Amping the system will help... but you are in an open air environment where sound cannot be contained well. Especially at highway speeds.
It's kinda like an outdoor concert with road/wind noise added to the mix. Takes a fair amout of watts (SPL) to overcome that road noise in an open air environment. No containment here, until you park it or pull the top up.
Swez
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