OK, here is my Dilema. I got an amp from walmart *laugh* anywhos, I installed it ran all the wires, i grounded the ground, before i put the + wire on there that i ran straight off the battery... the remote switch i hooked up to a switch i had for my strobes.. and the woofer is connected in the bridged mode, the woofer. is a Kenwood (dont know model or nothing) it was a free gift from my brother-in-law. I redid the wiring in the box.. and hooked it up.. turned on my radio. and hit the remote switch no sound. looked at the amp while my friend turned it on, and the power protector light comes on green and goes right to red which means trouble.
could be the amp - dropped or such to damage the insides (not likely but could be that)
the sub - maybe the connections i did are perfect, not my fault if it is something internal.
the wiring. shoudl i have put a fuse block on there for 20 amp? or is running it straight off the battery ok? please feel free to email me at JKANE65@tampabay.rr.com or on AOL instant messanger MdPorkchop. thanks. i really need to know what to do next so i dont jsut drag it all outta my car, and put it off for a while. -John
Replies (4)
swez on 04/14/2004 08:56:50
The good news is... you came to the right place for help. Now, let's back up and see what parts are good and which items need to be looked at more closely.
1. Power lead from + terminal on BAT needs to be fused close to the battery. The fuse size and feed line are determined by the amount of power the amp draws. (Amp make & model # please)
2. The REMOTE is a + 12 volt supply to turn the amp on. You can wire this from an Aftermarket HU (Blue lead wire) or make your own with a manual switch off ACC/IGN circuit. Fuse this line at 1A. (The best switch I have found is a lit version when on)
3. You need an audio input to your sub amp. Please explain how you did this audio link. (taps off rear speakers or RCA wires from HU?)
4. The amp may be fine, but the wiring to sub, bridging technique or the sub may be problematic. You can test the sub and the amp indepenently to determine what component(s) is/are not working properly.
If you have an Ohmeter, test the sub ohms rating. You should get somewhere between 3 and 7 ohms, depending on the voice coil resistance. If you you get a "0" ohm reading... sub is shorted or the internal box wiring is shorted. You will have to remove the sub from enclosure and test it again. Note the Model number of the sub while removed.
If you have a spare speaker handy, hook that up to amp and see what you get. If you get sound... amp is good. If not, either amp is wired improperly or internal problems with amp.
Say more...
Swez
PS The amp ground must be connected to bare metal such as floor pan or a seatbelt bolt. Not grounding wires from rear tail lamp circuits. Ground wire should be same gage wire as power feed line... #10 or #8 is common for smaller amps under 25A current draw.
MdPorkchop on 04/15/2004 15:07:14
I went out and got a new subwoofer... it was free... it is a virtual reality 12" that handles 700 watts... I put a fuse close to the battery for the power line that feed my HU and the AMP. The Head unit has to remote wire. I already had a switch there that is lit when on... so i ran teh remote wire to that. i am goign to put this new sub in today. and see if that was the culprit. if not i will start form scratch. the amp is a sony xplode 250 watt. -John my name is the same on AOL IM as on here so anyone feel free to message me
swez on 04/15/2004 15:12:29
What model # on the Sony amp... they make like a zillion of them???
Mono Class D, 2 channel or other?
Swez
MdPorkchop on 04/16/2004 04:01:33
it is a 2 ch. 250 watt total power. i installed the new sub today. my next day off form work.. we are going to take all the wiring i did out and redo it all. if that doesnt work.. i wil get a new amp. it is a POS i bought from walmart
could be the amp - dropped or such to damage the insides (not likely but could be that)
the sub - maybe the connections i did are perfect, not my fault if it is something internal.
the wiring. shoudl i have put a fuse block on there for 20 amp? or is running it straight off the battery ok? please feel free to email me at JKANE65@tampabay.rr.com or on AOL instant messanger MdPorkchop. thanks. i really need to know what to do next so i dont jsut drag it all outta my car, and put it off for a while. -John
Replies (4)
swez on 04/14/2004 08:56:50
The good news is... you came to the right place for help. Now, let's back up and see what parts are good and which items need to be looked at more closely.
1. Power lead from + terminal on BAT needs to be fused close to the battery. The fuse size and feed line are determined by the amount of power the amp draws. (Amp make & model # please)
2. The REMOTE is a + 12 volt supply to turn the amp on. You can wire this from an Aftermarket HU (Blue lead wire) or make your own with a manual switch off ACC/IGN circuit. Fuse this line at 1A. (The best switch I have found is a lit version when on)
3. You need an audio input to your sub amp. Please explain how you did this audio link. (taps off rear speakers or RCA wires from HU?)
4. The amp may be fine, but the wiring to sub, bridging technique or the sub may be problematic. You can test the sub and the amp indepenently to determine what component(s) is/are not working properly.
If you have an Ohmeter, test the sub ohms rating. You should get somewhere between 3 and 7 ohms, depending on the voice coil resistance. If you you get a "0" ohm reading... sub is shorted or the internal box wiring is shorted. You will have to remove the sub from enclosure and test it again. Note the Model number of the sub while removed.
If you have a spare speaker handy, hook that up to amp and see what you get. If you get sound... amp is good. If not, either amp is wired improperly or internal problems with amp.
Say more...
Swez
PS The amp ground must be connected to bare metal such as floor pan or a seatbelt bolt. Not grounding wires from rear tail lamp circuits. Ground wire should be same gage wire as power feed line... #10 or #8 is common for smaller amps under 25A current draw.
MdPorkchop on 04/15/2004 15:07:14
I went out and got a new subwoofer... it was free... it is a virtual reality 12" that handles 700 watts... I put a fuse close to the battery for the power line that feed my HU and the AMP. The Head unit has to remote wire. I already had a switch there that is lit when on... so i ran teh remote wire to that. i am goign to put this new sub in today. and see if that was the culprit. if not i will start form scratch. the amp is a sony xplode 250 watt. -John my name is the same on AOL IM as on here so anyone feel free to message me
swez on 04/15/2004 15:12:29
What model # on the Sony amp... they make like a zillion of them???
Mono Class D, 2 channel or other?
Swez
MdPorkchop on 04/16/2004 04:01:33
it is a 2 ch. 250 watt total power. i installed the new sub today. my next day off form work.. we are going to take all the wiring i did out and redo it all. if that doesnt work.. i wil get a new amp. it is a POS i bought from walmart
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