ok guys...and gals?????..........anyways heres the deal: I have a 1998 chevy cavalier and we bought a JVC deck for it. We went to install the deck and we got it in and working but as we were putting the mounting bracket on one of the wires came loose, it was just a speaker wire so we put it back together adn put the deck back in but now the deck will not turn on. We tested the deck on the battery by placing the red adn yellow wires on the pos. the black wire on the neg. and the deck works fine. We then went and got a pioneer deck from one of my friends, and we know this deck also works, but when we hooked it up in the car it wont turn on. We have checked all the fuses and have actually went and bought new ones and replaced all of them but nothing is working. Are there any ideas or suggestions on what is wrong with my car???? Please help me!!!!I appreciate any help anyone can offer and apologize if this is already somewhere else on the forum ( I looked but didnt see anything!)
Replies (7)
swez on 04/3/2004 16:42:47
This one happens from time to time.
Need a 12 volt test probe or voltmeter to check your wiring in the harness. Since the JVC HU worked off that battery test, the only thing it can be is a blown fuse or bad wiring connections. The wires to check are the ACC/IGN, Ground and +12 volt Yellow constant for memory.
You need a good body ground here too. Not just antenna or wiring harness. Go right to the floor pan, sand off the paint under the carpet and use a small sheet metal screw to attach your ground. If you have to splice a length to make it reach... do it.
Did you use a OEM/Aftermarket wire harness adapter kit here? Makes the job easier and almost a no brainer. All the key wires are right there and good to go.
With the key in and set to ACC, test between ground and wire harness until you find a hot wire. The test light will glow when there is power between the probe tip and ground. Once you find a good wire, turn the key off. If test light still glows, you have a wire for Yellow constant tap.
If the lamp goes out, you have a switched circuit wire. Usually, the ACC/IGN wire in harness is a heavy gage wire. That's what you want... not a small gage one here.
How was the new HU wired to the car wiring system? Some use crimp style connectors, (good) Scotch loc splicers (good) or soldering wire to wire and use shrink tube to cover the wires. Heat tube until they shrink to a tight fit. (best) Worst method is twisting wire pairs, then wrap with electrical tape. These often fail when they get stretched or in hot weather. Tape often gets soft & loose causing the wires separate or short out.
Hope that helps,
Swez
PS We don't get too many gals on this site... mostly a guy thing. But you are more than welcome to join the club.
megzz on 04/3/2004 17:30:23
thanks for all the helpful information, I appreciate it...would it just be easier to purchase another wire harness?
saintanddolphin on 04/3/2004 19:10:00
chek to see if it has a reset button on the unit .if no reset follow the steps that swez descibed because it will not solve the power problem by replacing the hu harness if the problem lies with in the oem(factory) harness...do you know what the model of the unit is? that may help also..
mike
swez on 04/3/2004 20:44:46
Since I am not able to see what was done, I can only speculate that the wiring job done was not a good one. My guess, when the HU was pulled from mounting hardware, the wires got stresses and the main power wire may have dislodged... NO CONNECTION TO POWER FEED.
That's where I'd look first, and a good ground as well.
New harness? Maybe... maybe not. Can probe present harness to HU and see if you have power or lack of same. If no power is present when key is in ACC/IGN position, gotta back track to find out where power was lost.
Swez
ttocs on 04/3/2004 21:28:51
sounds like you were not using the proper connectors if they simply come apart. How were you making your connections?
megzz on 04/3/2004 22:38:51
Hey...I really appreciate all of the helpful tips and information you have all given. It's all been very helpful. Turns out it was the one fuse that EVERYBODY forgot to check, but we did go ahead and sauter it adn used the red butt connectors to connect the wires. Once again thank you all!!! :)
ttocs on 04/4/2004 12:33:04
I am confused on how you are soldering and then using butt connectors? if you are soldering it is better to use some heat shrink or tape rather then butt connectors. Glad to hear you got it working.
Replies (7)
swez on 04/3/2004 16:42:47
This one happens from time to time.
Need a 12 volt test probe or voltmeter to check your wiring in the harness. Since the JVC HU worked off that battery test, the only thing it can be is a blown fuse or bad wiring connections. The wires to check are the ACC/IGN, Ground and +12 volt Yellow constant for memory.
You need a good body ground here too. Not just antenna or wiring harness. Go right to the floor pan, sand off the paint under the carpet and use a small sheet metal screw to attach your ground. If you have to splice a length to make it reach... do it.
Did you use a OEM/Aftermarket wire harness adapter kit here? Makes the job easier and almost a no brainer. All the key wires are right there and good to go.
With the key in and set to ACC, test between ground and wire harness until you find a hot wire. The test light will glow when there is power between the probe tip and ground. Once you find a good wire, turn the key off. If test light still glows, you have a wire for Yellow constant tap.
If the lamp goes out, you have a switched circuit wire. Usually, the ACC/IGN wire in harness is a heavy gage wire. That's what you want... not a small gage one here.
How was the new HU wired to the car wiring system? Some use crimp style connectors, (good) Scotch loc splicers (good) or soldering wire to wire and use shrink tube to cover the wires. Heat tube until they shrink to a tight fit. (best) Worst method is twisting wire pairs, then wrap with electrical tape. These often fail when they get stretched or in hot weather. Tape often gets soft & loose causing the wires separate or short out.
Hope that helps,
Swez
PS We don't get too many gals on this site... mostly a guy thing. But you are more than welcome to join the club.
megzz on 04/3/2004 17:30:23
thanks for all the helpful information, I appreciate it...would it just be easier to purchase another wire harness?
saintanddolphin on 04/3/2004 19:10:00
chek to see if it has a reset button on the unit .if no reset follow the steps that swez descibed because it will not solve the power problem by replacing the hu harness if the problem lies with in the oem(factory) harness...do you know what the model of the unit is? that may help also..
mike
swez on 04/3/2004 20:44:46
Since I am not able to see what was done, I can only speculate that the wiring job done was not a good one. My guess, when the HU was pulled from mounting hardware, the wires got stresses and the main power wire may have dislodged... NO CONNECTION TO POWER FEED.
That's where I'd look first, and a good ground as well.
New harness? Maybe... maybe not. Can probe present harness to HU and see if you have power or lack of same. If no power is present when key is in ACC/IGN position, gotta back track to find out where power was lost.
Swez
ttocs on 04/3/2004 21:28:51
sounds like you were not using the proper connectors if they simply come apart. How were you making your connections?
megzz on 04/3/2004 22:38:51
Hey...I really appreciate all of the helpful tips and information you have all given. It's all been very helpful. Turns out it was the one fuse that EVERYBODY forgot to check, but we did go ahead and sauter it adn used the red butt connectors to connect the wires. Once again thank you all!!! :)
ttocs on 04/4/2004 12:33:04
I am confused on how you are soldering and then using butt connectors? if you are soldering it is better to use some heat shrink or tape rather then butt connectors. Glad to hear you got it working.
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
