Ok, where to start. I just recently installed two 12 inch rockford hx2 4ohm dvc they are rated at 500 watts rms max and 1000 watts peak power. I have a rockford 1501bd amp pushing them which is putting out 1610 rms x1 at 2 ohms and 750 rms at 2 ohms. i have the subs run in series and the + wire is connected to the - on the amp and the - wire is connected to the + amp. I dont know to much about all the ohms and bridging and stuff but i am learning and i had alot of help installing. i dont know what ohms the subs are running at. I also have four regular pioneer door speakers that are like 120 watts a piece running from a rockford 301s 2 channel 300 rms amp. I have an optima red top bat running to the inline 60 amp fuse. from there it goes to the distribution box where i have 2 40 amp fuses. one 4 gauge wire goes from there to the 301s amp and the other 4 gauge goes to the rockford 1 farad capacitor. From the cap i have a 4 gauge wire going to the 1501bd amp. I have good grounds on the cap and the two amps, all my power wires and alt to bat wire is 4 gauge. My problem is when i turn the volume up and the bass gets on up there, the fuse in the distribution box or the fuse between the box and the battery will blow or should i say explode. I can turn it up for about 20 seconds and then the fuse blows,. I was told that i am drawing way to much current from my cars bat. My cap will go from like 13.2 down to like 9.0 with every thump. I am thinking that when the cap is getting under strain, it is trying to suck to much juice from the bat and it is blowingthe fuse. I am thinking of getting an optima yellow top and putting it in the back and hooking it up to the capacitor to see if that will remedy my problem. i was also told that i should check out hooking up a resistor between 2nd bat to capacitor but i know very little of resistors. If i get the 2nd optima, do i need to disconnect my front bat from the distribution block and run that wire from the distribution block to the back bat and just hook up a ground to it so that my front bat will have nothing hooked up to it but the original stuff or do i have to have an isolator circuit????
If you could help me out i would be greatly appreciative.
Thanx
Replies (7)
swez on 03/13/2004 19:06:16
RF db1501 Amp:
Key Features:
750 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
1500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
Class bd technology
requires 4-gauge power and ground leads and a 150-amp fuse and fuse holder — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
RF 301S
Key Features:
75 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms
150 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms
300 watts RMS x 1 bridged output at 4 ohms
stereo or bridged mono output
4-ohm stable in bridged mode
Tri-Way capable
requires a 10-gauge wiring kit with a 30-amp fuse — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
I'd say you have a few changes to make:
1. #2 gage wire from BAT/Fuse to D-block
2. bd1501 needs a larger fuse per specs noted above (100A. min.) **
3. OK wiring on 301S and 1501 from D-block back
** NOTE: this fuse value at the battery and D-block
This system is able to draw >150A., of current from the electrical system, as noted. If using a stock ALT., not going to cut it for long. (Cap or no Cap)
A 2nd battery, (Yellow Top) in trunk is useful. May need this as a buffer for the 1501 and 301S. A battery isolator (diode style) is recommended here. Once the primary battery is fully charged, (Red top) the ALT will concentrate on keeping the Yellow Top in constant charge state when you boom it hard.
Ditch the Cap or use it as a night light or a paper weight. An 800 CCA battery has >2,000,000 times the storage capacity of a 1 farad Cap.
Flow Chart for system: http://www.bcae1.com/battiso.htm
This shows 2 types of isolator installs and 1 install w/o isolator. READ IT CAREFULLY!!! Get the largest Yellow Top you can fit in the trunk and make sure you enclose/vent it for explosion protection.
Finally, this amp is pretty strong for those subs mentioned. You need to wire sub A in series (8 ohms) same for sub B. Now wire the pair in parallel (+ to +; - to -) to get a net ohm load of 4 ohms at amp. If you wired all voice coils in parallel, a 1 ohm load results and the amp will go into protect mode. You'll get ~750+ WATTS to the subs. (375 RMS each) Not bad and easier on the subs too.
Swez
PS For not knowing much about car audio, you did a fine job explaining how the install was done. Welcome to CK!
chanceallen on 03/14/2004 03:27:10
I should have no problem wiring the subs like you said, just got to get my hands on a multimeter. So i need to run 2 gauge from bat to d-block and add a 100+ fuse in there. 150 amps "wow" no wonder i was blowing fuses. you said my alt is not going to last long. If i get a 150+ alt and put the yellow top in the trunk and make the changes to the wiring and fuses and stuff, my system should be just fine?
Do you think i will still have the dimming lights and stuff?
One more thing, you said to encase and vent the battery for explosion protection. How could i make the battery explode, so i can avoid doing that? Back windshield is way to expensive. Thanx for all your help and will get back to you if i encounter any more problems.
Chance
swez on 03/14/2004 09:16:08
Wiring guide for your subs: use option #2 (4 ohm load)
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/wiringwizard.asp?WoofQty=2+woofers&WoofImp=Dual+Voice+Coil+-+4+ohms+x+2&image.x=19&image.y=13
Your stock ALT is probably a 105A., version. GM makes several versions in same drop in slot that go as high as 140A. That should work for this application. A good auto parts store (Auto Zone) will have or get one for you. Much cheaper than a dealer or a Stinger HO ALT.
While you're at it, upgrade to #4 wires ALT/BAT, BAT/GND and double the ground strap from engine to body to allow more efficient current flow.
Yes, need #2 gage wire from Bat to D-block and larger fuses too. A #4 to sub amp, #10 to 2 channel is good. A 2nd #2 from D-block to a fuse, then 2nd battery is also needed. See ref link: Flow Chart for system: http://www.bcae1.com/battiso.htm
About the 2nd battery... get a Yellow Top Gel Cel (or similar) The battery isolator (diode type) will work well and prevent light dimming. But try wiring w/o isolator first and see how you make out. Also, when a battery is charging, it out gasses Hydrogen. Very flamable/explosive, in a concentrated form. That's why we recommend a containment box. Can usually get them at WalMart or any good boating supply store. Just vent it and maybe a 12 volt fan to remove pent up gasses. Check out Optima web site for suggestions and precautions. Just keep BAT away from open flames, sparks when it is charging. Should be fine. Tight connections to battery posts are a must!
Swez
chanceallen on 03/17/2004 16:29:06
went out and bought a jl 200 amp fuse and holder and put it inline with bat and dblock. had to get a new dblock to fit 4 or 2 gage wire. I went to rockfords website and rewired the subs and now they are pulling 2 ohms off the amp. perfect. I can beat the subs till my car explodes and the amp never gets hot or cuts off. I am going to make some of the changes you talked about but right now it is too expensive. i realized i have 4 gage wire running from bat to dblock. from dblock i have 8 gage running to 301 amp and i also have 8 gage running to the 1501 amp. is that going to do anything except maybe make it heat up quicker. I went to autozone and checked on an alternator and they said they or any of their sister stores didnt carry any alternators. so i checked online at nexxon.com and spoke witha guy there and he said i can get a 200 amp alternator for my application. the price... $439.00.....maybe in the near future.
but with the setup how it is now, will that be fine for a few weeks or so.
thanx
swez on 03/17/2004 18:31:24
Sounds good for now... but remember that #4 wire is good up to about 100-125A of current flow. Your amps are rated a tad over that when you really crank it up.
Also, change that #8 gage on the sub amp ASAP. When you are really boomin it up, a #8 can melt or catch on fire. This needs to be addressed now. I'd hate to see you lose your ride and gear from something this easy to fix. This amp needs a #4 ground too.
Swez
ttocs on 03/17/2004 20:58:19
I agree. Either install a bigger wire, or install a fire extingiusher and make sure your ins is up to date.....
rs is the v6 right? I see alot of gm alternators online for cheaper all the time.
swez on 03/18/2004 09:00:05
Here's a link to remanufactured ALTs. You may have to e-mail them regarding what ampere options they have for the engine you have. A 130-150A model should do the job.
http://autoexpress.safeshopper.com/index.htm?646
Swez
If you could help me out i would be greatly appreciative.
Thanx
Replies (7)
swez on 03/13/2004 19:06:16
RF db1501 Amp:
Key Features:
750 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
1500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
Class bd technology
requires 4-gauge power and ground leads and a 150-amp fuse and fuse holder — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
RF 301S
Key Features:
75 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms
150 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms
300 watts RMS x 1 bridged output at 4 ohms
stereo or bridged mono output
4-ohm stable in bridged mode
Tri-Way capable
requires a 10-gauge wiring kit with a 30-amp fuse — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
I'd say you have a few changes to make:
1. #2 gage wire from BAT/Fuse to D-block
2. bd1501 needs a larger fuse per specs noted above (100A. min.) **
3. OK wiring on 301S and 1501 from D-block back
** NOTE: this fuse value at the battery and D-block
This system is able to draw >150A., of current from the electrical system, as noted. If using a stock ALT., not going to cut it for long. (Cap or no Cap)
A 2nd battery, (Yellow Top) in trunk is useful. May need this as a buffer for the 1501 and 301S. A battery isolator (diode style) is recommended here. Once the primary battery is fully charged, (Red top) the ALT will concentrate on keeping the Yellow Top in constant charge state when you boom it hard.
Ditch the Cap or use it as a night light or a paper weight. An 800 CCA battery has >2,000,000 times the storage capacity of a 1 farad Cap.
Flow Chart for system: http://www.bcae1.com/battiso.htm
This shows 2 types of isolator installs and 1 install w/o isolator. READ IT CAREFULLY!!! Get the largest Yellow Top you can fit in the trunk and make sure you enclose/vent it for explosion protection.
Finally, this amp is pretty strong for those subs mentioned. You need to wire sub A in series (8 ohms) same for sub B. Now wire the pair in parallel (+ to +; - to -) to get a net ohm load of 4 ohms at amp. If you wired all voice coils in parallel, a 1 ohm load results and the amp will go into protect mode. You'll get ~750+ WATTS to the subs. (375 RMS each) Not bad and easier on the subs too.
Swez
PS For not knowing much about car audio, you did a fine job explaining how the install was done. Welcome to CK!
chanceallen on 03/14/2004 03:27:10
I should have no problem wiring the subs like you said, just got to get my hands on a multimeter. So i need to run 2 gauge from bat to d-block and add a 100+ fuse in there. 150 amps "wow" no wonder i was blowing fuses. you said my alt is not going to last long. If i get a 150+ alt and put the yellow top in the trunk and make the changes to the wiring and fuses and stuff, my system should be just fine?
Do you think i will still have the dimming lights and stuff?
One more thing, you said to encase and vent the battery for explosion protection. How could i make the battery explode, so i can avoid doing that? Back windshield is way to expensive. Thanx for all your help and will get back to you if i encounter any more problems.
Chance
swez on 03/14/2004 09:16:08
Wiring guide for your subs: use option #2 (4 ohm load)
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/wiringwizard.asp?WoofQty=2+woofers&WoofImp=Dual+Voice+Coil+-+4+ohms+x+2&image.x=19&image.y=13
Your stock ALT is probably a 105A., version. GM makes several versions in same drop in slot that go as high as 140A. That should work for this application. A good auto parts store (Auto Zone) will have or get one for you. Much cheaper than a dealer or a Stinger HO ALT.
While you're at it, upgrade to #4 wires ALT/BAT, BAT/GND and double the ground strap from engine to body to allow more efficient current flow.
Yes, need #2 gage wire from Bat to D-block and larger fuses too. A #4 to sub amp, #10 to 2 channel is good. A 2nd #2 from D-block to a fuse, then 2nd battery is also needed. See ref link: Flow Chart for system: http://www.bcae1.com/battiso.htm
About the 2nd battery... get a Yellow Top Gel Cel (or similar) The battery isolator (diode type) will work well and prevent light dimming. But try wiring w/o isolator first and see how you make out. Also, when a battery is charging, it out gasses Hydrogen. Very flamable/explosive, in a concentrated form. That's why we recommend a containment box. Can usually get them at WalMart or any good boating supply store. Just vent it and maybe a 12 volt fan to remove pent up gasses. Check out Optima web site for suggestions and precautions. Just keep BAT away from open flames, sparks when it is charging. Should be fine. Tight connections to battery posts are a must!
Swez
chanceallen on 03/17/2004 16:29:06
went out and bought a jl 200 amp fuse and holder and put it inline with bat and dblock. had to get a new dblock to fit 4 or 2 gage wire. I went to rockfords website and rewired the subs and now they are pulling 2 ohms off the amp. perfect. I can beat the subs till my car explodes and the amp never gets hot or cuts off. I am going to make some of the changes you talked about but right now it is too expensive. i realized i have 4 gage wire running from bat to dblock. from dblock i have 8 gage running to 301 amp and i also have 8 gage running to the 1501 amp. is that going to do anything except maybe make it heat up quicker. I went to autozone and checked on an alternator and they said they or any of their sister stores didnt carry any alternators. so i checked online at nexxon.com and spoke witha guy there and he said i can get a 200 amp alternator for my application. the price... $439.00.....maybe in the near future.
but with the setup how it is now, will that be fine for a few weeks or so.
thanx
swez on 03/17/2004 18:31:24
Sounds good for now... but remember that #4 wire is good up to about 100-125A of current flow. Your amps are rated a tad over that when you really crank it up.
Also, change that #8 gage on the sub amp ASAP. When you are really boomin it up, a #8 can melt or catch on fire. This needs to be addressed now. I'd hate to see you lose your ride and gear from something this easy to fix. This amp needs a #4 ground too.
Swez
ttocs on 03/17/2004 20:58:19
I agree. Either install a bigger wire, or install a fire extingiusher and make sure your ins is up to date.....
rs is the v6 right? I see alot of gm alternators online for cheaper all the time.
swez on 03/18/2004 09:00:05
Here's a link to remanufactured ALTs. You may have to e-mail them regarding what ampere options they have for the engine you have. A 130-150A model should do the job.
http://autoexpress.safeshopper.com/index.htm?646
Swez
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