I have the following (Got these for free from a friend!!!)
Subwoofers:
2 x 12" MTX Thunder6000s
250 Watts RMS / 4 Ohm
Subwoofer Enclosure:
Q-Logic
"http://www.qlogic.ws/2003/products/qenclosures_detail.jsp?classID=55&productID=7189"
I was wondering what AMP you would recommend for this type of Sub/Enclosure???
Thanks,
Replies (21)
newcamr321 on 03/10/2004 10:30:09
Oh, I also have an Alpine Deck (CDA9807)
http://iweb.alpine-usa.com/pls/admn/item_info?p_item_name=CDA-9807&p_category=10&p_subcategory=20&p_main=10&p_more=y
and... 2 x (stock) (Very small speakers, tweeters?)
They are located at the same height as the mirrors (obviously inside though, haha =p )
and... 4 x (5x7) Infinity Speakers
- 2 in driver/passenger doors
- 2 rear of car
I also have another question. In between the 5x7s in the REAR, there is an 'empty' cut-out. I was told that if I had a premium sound system in my car, a factory-sub would have been installed there. Is there a speaker I could put there instead, or would it be useless???
swez on 03/10/2004 10:32:51
MTX recommends 1.0 - 2.0 cf per sub, sealed enclosure. The larger the enclosure, the better the low end bass extension will be. However, power handling will drop as enclosure size increases as it takes less watts for sub to reach X-max. (maximum excursion limits)
Generally, the best of both low bass and high SPL are right in the middle of the spec range. In this case, 1.5 cf sealed is a good target. But 1.25 cf is fine as well.
More details: http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/archive/T6124A.pdf
Do you have the single 4 ohm voice coil version or dual voice coils here? Knowing that data, we can recommend a few amps to match these subs.
Swez
PS The cutout is there for a powered sub. Would generally use a "free air" sub... no enclosure. Not as good performance as a sub in an enclosure by far.
newcamr321 on 03/10/2004 10:41:00
Ahhh... I meant could I put a SPEAKER in the cut-out or would it be impossible/pointless? Not a Sub =p
Also... I have no idea if these are Single or Dual Voice Coiled... I opened the box and it has a diagram with two sides. On one side it says "single voice coil" and on the other it says "dual voice coil". Because there is nothing written on the box or on the subs I am going to assume it's single voice coil???
compvr15s on 03/10/2004 12:57:29
to tell it its single or dual, look on the back side of the sub woofer, if you see just one red and one black wire terminal then its single, if there is 4 spots for wires two pos and two neg then its dual. as for that cut out, what size is it? if its small enough you can put a midbass in there or even a single sub, or just cover it up and use it for nothing, may help with bass movement from your trunk the the passenger area though. i dont know anywhere that you can find just a single speaker though, so you will have to buy two and let one site, unless you can find one on ebay. good luck
newcamr321 on 03/10/2004 13:36:13
It has one red and one black terminal. brSingle Voice Coiled (Is that bad?)brbrThe cut out measures 6x9brIt is also located DIRECTLY ABOVE where the Subwoofer Box would sit.brbrAnd... my friend needs to replace one of his 6x9s so I was gonna go halves with him on it, if it would fit the speaker, that is. brbrBut... if you think I could put it to better use by moving bass from the trunk to the passenger area, let me know.brbrThanks Again!brbr(Edited What's a Midbass?)
swez on 03/10/2004 13:38:02
That mounting hole for a sub can be used as a "passive" portal to the interior of your vehicle to pass bass from the subs, to the interior of the vehicle.
I would not recommend mounting a sub/Midbass there, until you hear the subs from the trunk. If it sounds good as is, leave it alone. But you will not know this until the subs arfe amped and installed.
In short, hold off on this one until you get an amp and try the subs.
Swez
newcamr321 on 03/10/2004 13:39:41
Ah ok thank you very much swez and comp ! Much appreciated!
Just waiting for that Tax Return check to buy an Amp... haha
Now what kind of amp do you two suggest??
swez on 03/10/2004 13:48:34
JBL BP600.1 is a very good option here. It will deliver +600 RMS to both subs at full output. You will get clean output, a bit more than RMS power for the subs. But you can compensate by reducing the amp gain settings here.
There are MTX amps that will fit this application too. Just not the power and overall performance of the JBL for well under $300.00. Ebay is a good option to look for this amp. Also Kicker 600.1 will work.... just more expensive.
Swez
compvr15s on 03/10/2004 15:22:07
id recommend the jbl as well. i myself have 2 kicker kx600.1s. i love them but for the price of the jbls its a no brainer. no ss-filter on the jbl but thas not a big deal unless you go ported and then you can still buy inline ss-filters and still have money to spare. good luck
swez on 03/10/2004 17:27:15
Just dawned on me... MTX kaes 4 & 8 ohm woofers in the 6000 series. That could change your amp selection choices in a heartbeat.
Do you have an ohm meter? Measure the resistance of subs off the rear wiring terminal on the box. If you get ~2.0 ohms, the JBL 600.1 or similar, is fine.
If you get a 3.X resistance, these are 8 ohm subs, wired in parallel. A 2 channel amp, bridged would be best for this scenario.
Swez
newcamr321 on 03/10/2004 20:33:59
They are 4 Ohm subs (says so on the box)
Alright I'm ready to order the JBL BP 600.1 Amplifier. So far every review I have read is excellent. Thanks!
Unfortunately, I don't do car stereo installs and I'm not comfortable letting any of my friends 'attempt' it, so I'm having it professionally installed. To save myself some $$ I'd like to buy ALL necessary parts before I get it installed.
What kind of wires should I buy? Every company says there wires are the best but I don't really know the difference... heh
Also, are there any addt'l parts that I may need to buy?
alanjlamore on 03/10/2004 21:21:39
You should get a wiring kit. They come with everything you need.
I believe that an 8 guage kit would be large enough. If you plan on upgrading in the future, I'd suggest a 4 guage wiring kit, and if you're going to have more than one amp, you'd want a distribution block.
I saw some 8 guage kits on ebay for $17.00 and $8.00 for shipping.
Even if you don't know much about car sterio installs, the people on this forum would be happy to step you through it. These guys are great, and I'm willing to help with what I know too.
It's realy not hard (especially with the help of this forum), and you'll save TONS of money, plus you'll have learned a lot.
If you still want to have it installed profesionally, make sure you don't get taken advantage of. They might try to sell you stuf you don't need. Just try to talk with them first and see if they seem honest and helpfull, not pushy or overly anxious to get a sale.
I don't think you'll need any fancy wiring if you're not trying to compete. As long as the wire's made for car audio, it should be good enough (my oppinion).
Good luck!
newcamr321 on 03/10/2004 23:05:08
This site is amazing. If not for you guys I would've probably wasted about $300+... haha.
And yes, I am very good about "not gettin ripped off"... I always get a 2nd opinion before I make purchases (that's where you guys come in, haha)
WooT...
I'll be making a donation soon *wink*
Munchiesyumm on 03/10/2004 23:54:10
If you have a walmart near you they have amp wiring kits that are pretty good. I use them on every install. The 1,000 watt pack is pretty good chouce. It's like $24.99
good luck on your install and happy to see you like the site!
These guys go 100% out when they help you!
swez on 03/11/2004 09:58:20
I recommend you use a good wiring kit for this install. Cheap kits are available, but if you get noise problems later, you may have to redo things with better quality materials.
Try this kit for subs:
Complete 4 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit
Item #: KOLAK4
Category: Amp Installation Kits
Price: $30.00
http://www.knukonceptz.com/
Also, if you are even thinking about amping the interior speakers later, it would be a no brainer to install RCA's for the pending amp purchase, while doing the sub wiring.
Your HU indicates 4.0 volt preamp out for subs, but it also says 3 RCA outs... Does that mean 3 pairs of RCA's (F,R & Subs) or 3 outs only...
(FL,FR & Sub) ? Please clarify.
Swez
cplkittle on 03/11/2004 20:53:20
I would highly recommend installing it yourself. We will help you.
I work at a car audio place, and even though I am getting paid, it breaks my heart to see people pay what they do just for installations. $50-$75, just to hook it up.
alanjlamore on 03/11/2004 20:58:04
I payed $75 to have one amp installed. The rest of my system was hooked up already.
I had all the wire and everything, but I was scared of touching power. What a rip-off.
I'm now a lot more confident with power thanks to this forum.
swez on 03/12/2004 07:08:59
Not to worry, we'll get you through the process and save a goodly sum too. Start reading the posts and FAQ sections. Ask questions as you need more clarification. We are very newbie friendly here.
Swez COFFEE
eldevioso on 03/12/2004 18:33:21
Just a side comment on the "hole" where a sub would've been installed in a premium system. Swez nailed it by saying, listen to your subs before adding a sub there. I have a stock subwoofer in my car and I had it playing while my aftermarket subwoofer was playing. The stock sub, or smaller sub, which would be equivalent to one you'd probably throw in there, causes distortion and a reduction in sound quality. My stock sub is free air as would be your and plain and simple: I disconnected it after I hooked up my aftermarket sub. It was unnecessary and hurt the sound quality.
Further, it will be a nice conduit for sound and pressure to enter the cabin. I can't pull down the seats in my sedan, instead i have the 4" by 10" center arm rest thing that drops down and leaves a small port into the trunk. I could certainly use more openings...as the pressure in my trunk is ridiuculous and most of it doesn't make it into the cabin.
Leaving that hole empty is most likely the BEST alternative you have.
newcamr321 on 03/24/2004 12:42:15
swez said to purchase >>>
Complete 4 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit
Item #: KOLAK4
Category: Amp Installation Kits
Price: $30.00
http://www.knukonceptz.com/
unfortunately they don't do Paypal and I don't have a Credit Card at this time... maybe you could suggest another site to buy this same wiring kit, or a different wiring kit?
Thanks,
By the way... about the preamps... how exactly would I find this out? Just by looking in the guide that came with the head unit??? I'll go start looking now... !
swez on 03/24/2004 20:32:09
Yes, the install guide will tell you what you have.
Some HU's have 3 RCA outputs: Right/Left/Sub outs
Others have 3 pairs RF/LF; RR/LR/Sub outs
Your install manual should have all the details or if the HU is not installed yet, have a look on the back panel to see what you have.
Since you are paypal or check/cash, go to Walmart and get a #4 gage install kit. The power wiring kit is pretty much universal. The RCA lines are the key. Good ones cost a bit more, but reject noise better due to good shielding and better jackets. Just make sure you get the proper length cables so you don't run short.
For your sub wiring, use #12 wire (min.) from amp to subs and subs to sub. Can use #10... but 12 is fine.
Finally, this system will be very bass heavy w/o amping the interior speakers. If it were me, I would hardwire the whole system at one time for dual amps. At the very least, amp the front speakers and run the rears off the HU amps. If you want all 4 quadrants amped, then get a decent 4 channel and plan ahead as you wire.
FYI: Best practice is to run all RCA lines down one side of vehicle. All power lines on the opposite side. Some choose to run the front speaker wires up the middle to HU harness (stock wires used) and rear channels direct, off the 4 channel amp.
Swez
Subwoofers:
2 x 12" MTX Thunder6000s
250 Watts RMS / 4 Ohm
Subwoofer Enclosure:
Q-Logic
"http://www.qlogic.ws/2003/products/qenclosures_detail.jsp?classID=55&productID=7189"
I was wondering what AMP you would recommend for this type of Sub/Enclosure???
Thanks,
Replies (21)
newcamr321 on 03/10/2004 10:30:09
Oh, I also have an Alpine Deck (CDA9807)
http://iweb.alpine-usa.com/pls/admn/item_info?p_item_name=CDA-9807&p_category=10&p_subcategory=20&p_main=10&p_more=y
and... 2 x (stock) (Very small speakers, tweeters?)
They are located at the same height as the mirrors (obviously inside though, haha =p )
and... 4 x (5x7) Infinity Speakers
- 2 in driver/passenger doors
- 2 rear of car
I also have another question. In between the 5x7s in the REAR, there is an 'empty' cut-out. I was told that if I had a premium sound system in my car, a factory-sub would have been installed there. Is there a speaker I could put there instead, or would it be useless???
swez on 03/10/2004 10:32:51
MTX recommends 1.0 - 2.0 cf per sub, sealed enclosure. The larger the enclosure, the better the low end bass extension will be. However, power handling will drop as enclosure size increases as it takes less watts for sub to reach X-max. (maximum excursion limits)
Generally, the best of both low bass and high SPL are right in the middle of the spec range. In this case, 1.5 cf sealed is a good target. But 1.25 cf is fine as well.
More details: http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/archive/T6124A.pdf
Do you have the single 4 ohm voice coil version or dual voice coils here? Knowing that data, we can recommend a few amps to match these subs.
Swez
PS The cutout is there for a powered sub. Would generally use a "free air" sub... no enclosure. Not as good performance as a sub in an enclosure by far.
newcamr321 on 03/10/2004 10:41:00
Ahhh... I meant could I put a SPEAKER in the cut-out or would it be impossible/pointless? Not a Sub =p
Also... I have no idea if these are Single or Dual Voice Coiled... I opened the box and it has a diagram with two sides. On one side it says "single voice coil" and on the other it says "dual voice coil". Because there is nothing written on the box or on the subs I am going to assume it's single voice coil???
compvr15s on 03/10/2004 12:57:29
to tell it its single or dual, look on the back side of the sub woofer, if you see just one red and one black wire terminal then its single, if there is 4 spots for wires two pos and two neg then its dual. as for that cut out, what size is it? if its small enough you can put a midbass in there or even a single sub, or just cover it up and use it for nothing, may help with bass movement from your trunk the the passenger area though. i dont know anywhere that you can find just a single speaker though, so you will have to buy two and let one site, unless you can find one on ebay. good luck
newcamr321 on 03/10/2004 13:36:13
It has one red and one black terminal. brSingle Voice Coiled (Is that bad?)brbrThe cut out measures 6x9brIt is also located DIRECTLY ABOVE where the Subwoofer Box would sit.brbrAnd... my friend needs to replace one of his 6x9s so I was gonna go halves with him on it, if it would fit the speaker, that is. brbrBut... if you think I could put it to better use by moving bass from the trunk to the passenger area, let me know.brbrThanks Again!brbr(Edited What's a Midbass?)
swez on 03/10/2004 13:38:02
That mounting hole for a sub can be used as a "passive" portal to the interior of your vehicle to pass bass from the subs, to the interior of the vehicle.
I would not recommend mounting a sub/Midbass there, until you hear the subs from the trunk. If it sounds good as is, leave it alone. But you will not know this until the subs arfe amped and installed.
In short, hold off on this one until you get an amp and try the subs.
Swez
newcamr321 on 03/10/2004 13:39:41
Ah ok thank you very much swez and comp ! Much appreciated!
Just waiting for that Tax Return check to buy an Amp... haha
Now what kind of amp do you two suggest??
swez on 03/10/2004 13:48:34
JBL BP600.1 is a very good option here. It will deliver +600 RMS to both subs at full output. You will get clean output, a bit more than RMS power for the subs. But you can compensate by reducing the amp gain settings here.
There are MTX amps that will fit this application too. Just not the power and overall performance of the JBL for well under $300.00. Ebay is a good option to look for this amp. Also Kicker 600.1 will work.... just more expensive.
Swez
compvr15s on 03/10/2004 15:22:07
id recommend the jbl as well. i myself have 2 kicker kx600.1s. i love them but for the price of the jbls its a no brainer. no ss-filter on the jbl but thas not a big deal unless you go ported and then you can still buy inline ss-filters and still have money to spare. good luck
swez on 03/10/2004 17:27:15
Just dawned on me... MTX kaes 4 & 8 ohm woofers in the 6000 series. That could change your amp selection choices in a heartbeat.
Do you have an ohm meter? Measure the resistance of subs off the rear wiring terminal on the box. If you get ~2.0 ohms, the JBL 600.1 or similar, is fine.
If you get a 3.X resistance, these are 8 ohm subs, wired in parallel. A 2 channel amp, bridged would be best for this scenario.
Swez
newcamr321 on 03/10/2004 20:33:59
They are 4 Ohm subs (says so on the box)
Alright I'm ready to order the JBL BP 600.1 Amplifier. So far every review I have read is excellent. Thanks!
Unfortunately, I don't do car stereo installs and I'm not comfortable letting any of my friends 'attempt' it, so I'm having it professionally installed. To save myself some $$ I'd like to buy ALL necessary parts before I get it installed.
What kind of wires should I buy? Every company says there wires are the best but I don't really know the difference... heh
Also, are there any addt'l parts that I may need to buy?
alanjlamore on 03/10/2004 21:21:39
You should get a wiring kit. They come with everything you need.
I believe that an 8 guage kit would be large enough. If you plan on upgrading in the future, I'd suggest a 4 guage wiring kit, and if you're going to have more than one amp, you'd want a distribution block.
I saw some 8 guage kits on ebay for $17.00 and $8.00 for shipping.
Even if you don't know much about car sterio installs, the people on this forum would be happy to step you through it. These guys are great, and I'm willing to help with what I know too.
It's realy not hard (especially with the help of this forum), and you'll save TONS of money, plus you'll have learned a lot.
If you still want to have it installed profesionally, make sure you don't get taken advantage of. They might try to sell you stuf you don't need. Just try to talk with them first and see if they seem honest and helpfull, not pushy or overly anxious to get a sale.
I don't think you'll need any fancy wiring if you're not trying to compete. As long as the wire's made for car audio, it should be good enough (my oppinion).
Good luck!
newcamr321 on 03/10/2004 23:05:08
This site is amazing. If not for you guys I would've probably wasted about $300+... haha.
And yes, I am very good about "not gettin ripped off"... I always get a 2nd opinion before I make purchases (that's where you guys come in, haha)
WooT...
I'll be making a donation soon *wink*
Munchiesyumm on 03/10/2004 23:54:10
If you have a walmart near you they have amp wiring kits that are pretty good. I use them on every install. The 1,000 watt pack is pretty good chouce. It's like $24.99
good luck on your install and happy to see you like the site!
These guys go 100% out when they help you!
swez on 03/11/2004 09:58:20
I recommend you use a good wiring kit for this install. Cheap kits are available, but if you get noise problems later, you may have to redo things with better quality materials.
Try this kit for subs:
Complete 4 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit
Item #: KOLAK4
Category: Amp Installation Kits
Price: $30.00
http://www.knukonceptz.com/
Also, if you are even thinking about amping the interior speakers later, it would be a no brainer to install RCA's for the pending amp purchase, while doing the sub wiring.
Your HU indicates 4.0 volt preamp out for subs, but it also says 3 RCA outs... Does that mean 3 pairs of RCA's (F,R & Subs) or 3 outs only...
(FL,FR & Sub) ? Please clarify.
Swez
cplkittle on 03/11/2004 20:53:20
I would highly recommend installing it yourself. We will help you.
I work at a car audio place, and even though I am getting paid, it breaks my heart to see people pay what they do just for installations. $50-$75, just to hook it up.
alanjlamore on 03/11/2004 20:58:04
I payed $75 to have one amp installed. The rest of my system was hooked up already.
I had all the wire and everything, but I was scared of touching power. What a rip-off.
I'm now a lot more confident with power thanks to this forum.
swez on 03/12/2004 07:08:59
Not to worry, we'll get you through the process and save a goodly sum too. Start reading the posts and FAQ sections. Ask questions as you need more clarification. We are very newbie friendly here.
Swez COFFEE
eldevioso on 03/12/2004 18:33:21
Just a side comment on the "hole" where a sub would've been installed in a premium system. Swez nailed it by saying, listen to your subs before adding a sub there. I have a stock subwoofer in my car and I had it playing while my aftermarket subwoofer was playing. The stock sub, or smaller sub, which would be equivalent to one you'd probably throw in there, causes distortion and a reduction in sound quality. My stock sub is free air as would be your and plain and simple: I disconnected it after I hooked up my aftermarket sub. It was unnecessary and hurt the sound quality.
Further, it will be a nice conduit for sound and pressure to enter the cabin. I can't pull down the seats in my sedan, instead i have the 4" by 10" center arm rest thing that drops down and leaves a small port into the trunk. I could certainly use more openings...as the pressure in my trunk is ridiuculous and most of it doesn't make it into the cabin.
Leaving that hole empty is most likely the BEST alternative you have.
newcamr321 on 03/24/2004 12:42:15
swez said to purchase >>>
Complete 4 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit
Item #: KOLAK4
Category: Amp Installation Kits
Price: $30.00
http://www.knukonceptz.com/
unfortunately they don't do Paypal and I don't have a Credit Card at this time... maybe you could suggest another site to buy this same wiring kit, or a different wiring kit?
Thanks,
By the way... about the preamps... how exactly would I find this out? Just by looking in the guide that came with the head unit??? I'll go start looking now... !
swez on 03/24/2004 20:32:09
Yes, the install guide will tell you what you have.
Some HU's have 3 RCA outputs: Right/Left/Sub outs
Others have 3 pairs RF/LF; RR/LR/Sub outs
Your install manual should have all the details or if the HU is not installed yet, have a look on the back panel to see what you have.
Since you are paypal or check/cash, go to Walmart and get a #4 gage install kit. The power wiring kit is pretty much universal. The RCA lines are the key. Good ones cost a bit more, but reject noise better due to good shielding and better jackets. Just make sure you get the proper length cables so you don't run short.
For your sub wiring, use #12 wire (min.) from amp to subs and subs to sub. Can use #10... but 12 is fine.
Finally, this system will be very bass heavy w/o amping the interior speakers. If it were me, I would hardwire the whole system at one time for dual amps. At the very least, amp the front speakers and run the rears off the HU amps. If you want all 4 quadrants amped, then get a decent 4 channel and plan ahead as you wire.
FYI: Best practice is to run all RCA lines down one side of vehicle. All power lines on the opposite side. Some choose to run the front speaker wires up the middle to HU harness (stock wires used) and rear channels direct, off the 4 channel amp.
Swez
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