Car: 1997 Ford F-150 ext cabbrbrbrHU : JVC KD-SH55 brhttp://www.dealtime.com/xPF-JVC_KD_SH55brbrBASS AMP : JBL BP600.1brhttp://www.dealtime.com/xPF-JBL_BP600_1brbrMIDS AMP : JBL P80.4brhttp://www.dealtime.com/xPF-JBL_P80_4_21880372brbrFRONT COMPONENTS : Infinity Reference REF 6000CSbrhttp://www.dealtime.com/xPF-Infinity_Reference_REF_6000CSbrbrSUBS : pair of Xtant Z104 10 inch subs http://www.dealtime.com/xPF-Xtant_Z104br(can't find any more specs on them)brbrbrbrOK so this is the deal I'd like you guys opinion on the best way to set this system up. I mean how to wire the amps and the subs etc. Oh yeah I'm planning on replacing the rear factory 6x8's with some pioneer or kenwood speakers. This is because I've always heard you guys say that the back speakers aren't that important. They're just there for rear fill. Would it be wise to do that, since I'm planning on using a 4 channel amp for the cabin. I was thinking maybe too much power. And also will the two amps draw a large amount of current from the alt. I'm not fimiliar with the amp rating on the truck's alt, but i't a lariat V-8 so I'm thinking that it should do right? brbrbrbrEnclosure wise I'm waiting for the subs to arrive later this week to see what exactly their specs are. volume, depth etc.I'm planning on putting them underneath the rear seat so I'll probably need to buy some spacers to lift the seat up.a bit. Oh yeah which way is best for the subs to face, up or down ?brbrbrI don't know why my post shows up like this. Everywhere I have a space it says brbr. What's that all about?
Replies (3)
swez on 03/2/2004 13:41:12
The 600.1 for sub is fine and it can draw 57A. alone. The 2nd 600.1 for midbass is a bit much... 300 RMS is plenty there or even 150. The Class D design is not well suited to higher frequencies though. I think JBL recommends 500 Hz., max in specs. A smaller amp would suffice for MB.
The P80.4 is only 40 watts RMS x 4 @ 4 ohms, 80 RMS @ 2 ohms and 160 x 2 @ 4 ohms, so best to run it 2 ohms 4 channel or bridge it to a 2 channel for front Comps.
If you use the rear 6x8's for rear fill, will you amp them or just use the HU amps? If HU only, remain stock initially and see how they blend in. Stocks are often more efficient and limited frequency range, so the stocks may be ok as is.
Swez
blacktallon2000 on 03/2/2004 15:27:43
I know it was difficult to read, but I'm only using one 600.1 for the subs. The p80.4 I was planning on using with the front comps and the rear 6x8's. how would i wire up those subs to the 600.1 though. that's basically the main question i have. And also how to wire up the p80.4 to the comps and 6x8's.
I figured that since I already bought the four channel amp I might as well use it. Or would it be better to run the rear speakers of the HU amp and just use the P80.4 to power up the comps. If so Do I just bridge it and wouldn't it be too much juice for the comps?
cplkittle on 03/2/2004 16:51:12
I would run the subs at the lowest ohmage possibe to the amp (1ohm stable) if the speakers are 4ohm DVC, run the voice coils in parallel on each speaker for 2 ohms per speaker, then parallel again at the amp for 1 ohm, this will net the full 600w+ from the amplifier.
For rear fill, in my experience, a 2 or 3 way is a tad too much highs. I would recommend a 6x9 component with variable crossover for the high frequencies if you decide the highs are even needed. Planet Audio makes a nice 6x9 component capable of some pretty clean lows. IF your rear fill is not strong enough, you could always bridge the rear channel for a little more power. I have always used kenwood 6x9s and never had much of a problem with them. The will warp pretty bad after 3-4 years if iexposed to constant direct sunlight.
Once you get everything connected, find the average loudest volume that you might play your system at, and isolate each stage one at a time to listen for any distortion at that volume. Some times with loud bass and high end components up front, it is hard to hear distortion from the rear fill.
Replies (3)
swez on 03/2/2004 13:41:12
The 600.1 for sub is fine and it can draw 57A. alone. The 2nd 600.1 for midbass is a bit much... 300 RMS is plenty there or even 150. The Class D design is not well suited to higher frequencies though. I think JBL recommends 500 Hz., max in specs. A smaller amp would suffice for MB.
The P80.4 is only 40 watts RMS x 4 @ 4 ohms, 80 RMS @ 2 ohms and 160 x 2 @ 4 ohms, so best to run it 2 ohms 4 channel or bridge it to a 2 channel for front Comps.
If you use the rear 6x8's for rear fill, will you amp them or just use the HU amps? If HU only, remain stock initially and see how they blend in. Stocks are often more efficient and limited frequency range, so the stocks may be ok as is.
Swez
blacktallon2000 on 03/2/2004 15:27:43
I know it was difficult to read, but I'm only using one 600.1 for the subs. The p80.4 I was planning on using with the front comps and the rear 6x8's. how would i wire up those subs to the 600.1 though. that's basically the main question i have. And also how to wire up the p80.4 to the comps and 6x8's.
I figured that since I already bought the four channel amp I might as well use it. Or would it be better to run the rear speakers of the HU amp and just use the P80.4 to power up the comps. If so Do I just bridge it and wouldn't it be too much juice for the comps?
cplkittle on 03/2/2004 16:51:12
I would run the subs at the lowest ohmage possibe to the amp (1ohm stable) if the speakers are 4ohm DVC, run the voice coils in parallel on each speaker for 2 ohms per speaker, then parallel again at the amp for 1 ohm, this will net the full 600w+ from the amplifier.
For rear fill, in my experience, a 2 or 3 way is a tad too much highs. I would recommend a 6x9 component with variable crossover for the high frequencies if you decide the highs are even needed. Planet Audio makes a nice 6x9 component capable of some pretty clean lows. IF your rear fill is not strong enough, you could always bridge the rear channel for a little more power. I have always used kenwood 6x9s and never had much of a problem with them. The will warp pretty bad after 3-4 years if iexposed to constant direct sunlight.
Once you get everything connected, find the average loudest volume that you might play your system at, and isolate each stage one at a time to listen for any distortion at that volume. Some times with loud bass and high end components up front, it is hard to hear distortion from the rear fill.
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