i was wondering if my jl 500/1 can power 3 10"w6v2 to there full potential? and should i go with a vented/port box for that setup?
thanks
Replies (7)
swez on 02/20/2004 08:27:31
Not to full potential. This sub is rated at 400 RMS per each. The 500/1 will give each sub ~166 watts RMS. Well under the potential of these potent puppies.
You may wish to consider the 1000/1 in this application. You'll get 333 watts RMS/sub and can use vented or sealed with good results. Depends on the music you like best.
Swez
gobber on 02/20/2004 09:39:30
i listen to mostly rap and hip hop, so i'm thinking a vented/port would give me better lower bass right? or with 3 it would really matter? when i get the 3 10s how do I hook them up to the amp? i looked at the jl site and i just don't understand why they have wire from the far right pos. to the far left neg. output of the amp connectting on all 3 of the subs.
thanks again
swez on 02/20/2004 11:30:28
Yes, a ported enclosure would be your best bet for the deep lows in Rap and HH.
As for wiring 3 subs, wire each sub for 8 ohms. That's both voice coils in SERIES. Then with all 3 in series, wire them all to the amp in PARALLEL, to net a 2.67 ohm load. That is well within operating range of these JL amps and exactly what the wiring diagram states in the JL site.
Again.. each sub is wired for 8 ohms, then all six main wires from the subs, are mated into 3 pairs. Three are positive, 3 are negative and go to the amp terminals that match polarity.
Swez
gobber on 02/20/2004 12:27:34
ok, thanks swez, i kindof sure how it hooks up, last question when i have the 3 pairs of negative do i but all of them in the far negative output of the amp? and do i put the other pair in the far positive output of the amp?you know like bridge them? (i was told you cann't bridge 500/1 or 1000/1) i just cann't see 3 wires fitting in the output of the amp. brthanks br
swez on 02/20/2004 16:56:51
Your best bet, would be to pick up a pair of barrier strip wire termination rails. Each strip should have 4 terminals and common bridging strips between all 4. That allows all 4 terminals to be cleanly connected to each other.
You will need 3 terminals... 1 for each woofer wire and one that leads to the amp output lug. The same process is used on NEG and POS wires so a pair of wiring strips are needed.
Here's what they look like and you will have to run some bridging wires down the output side of each strip, so all 4 wires are in the same circuit as parallel connections. #12 gage wire to woofers is fine. May want to use #8-10 gage out to amp.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&User_ID=18364795&St=8383&St2=80018967&St3=58183842&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=2403&DID=7
Swez
Bridges between top rail screws, #4 Output to amp, #5 not used
*____*____*____*____*
*.......*.......*........*.......*
w1---w2---w3---open---open
Hard to draw this right on this format.
gobber on 02/22/2004 09:48:14
Swez, by using termination rails is it going to add any big deal of resistances? do they make a cover for them? so just so, if something like wire or a piece of metal hit it, it wouldn't short out.
one pair of rails will be for pos. and the other one will be for the neg. right? then i just hook them up 3 pos. to one and 3 neg. to the other (to the speaker). then i take a piece of 8 or 10 gage wire from the amp neg. to the neg. of the speaker rail. and the same for pos.
thanks again
swez on 02/22/2004 10:43:11
Yep, you have the right idea and no... the terminals do not add resistance enough to cause any problems. (<0.1 ohms maybe)
As for mounting and covering, not really needed is you mount the rails inside the box. No chance of wires shorting this way and all the bundled wires are out of the way. If you wish, a small flap of rubber or flexible plastic can be employed to cover the terminals, after the wiring is in place. A few staples will hold it in place and no shorting is possible with the shield in place.
Also, you can install a terminal cup at the back or side of the box that uses binding posts to handle the #8 gage wires to the cup, then to amp. These can be ordered from PE as well. A nice finished look this way.
Look here:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&User_ID=18364795&St=8383&St2=80018967&St3=58183842&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=5679&DID=7
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&User_ID=18364795&St=8383&St2=80018967&St3=58183842&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=5681&DID=7
These will do just fine. #8 gage wire and can use banana plugs to terminate between amp and cup for easy disconnect from box to amp. You may wish to use banana plugs on the amp terminal side if the amp has that termination feature and if you use them on the box wiring side as well, make sure you disconnect from the amp first, then box to prevent shorts. Wrapping the cup side plug with electrical tape or a plastic sleeve will work too, but tape tends to leave a sticky residue.
BANANA PLUGS:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&User_ID=18364795&St=8383&St2=80018967&St3=58183842&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=2462&DID=7
There ya go sport... how does this look to you?
Swez
thanks
Replies (7)
swez on 02/20/2004 08:27:31
Not to full potential. This sub is rated at 400 RMS per each. The 500/1 will give each sub ~166 watts RMS. Well under the potential of these potent puppies.
You may wish to consider the 1000/1 in this application. You'll get 333 watts RMS/sub and can use vented or sealed with good results. Depends on the music you like best.
Swez
gobber on 02/20/2004 09:39:30
i listen to mostly rap and hip hop, so i'm thinking a vented/port would give me better lower bass right? or with 3 it would really matter? when i get the 3 10s how do I hook them up to the amp? i looked at the jl site and i just don't understand why they have wire from the far right pos. to the far left neg. output of the amp connectting on all 3 of the subs.
thanks again
swez on 02/20/2004 11:30:28
Yes, a ported enclosure would be your best bet for the deep lows in Rap and HH.
As for wiring 3 subs, wire each sub for 8 ohms. That's both voice coils in SERIES. Then with all 3 in series, wire them all to the amp in PARALLEL, to net a 2.67 ohm load. That is well within operating range of these JL amps and exactly what the wiring diagram states in the JL site.
Again.. each sub is wired for 8 ohms, then all six main wires from the subs, are mated into 3 pairs. Three are positive, 3 are negative and go to the amp terminals that match polarity.
Swez
gobber on 02/20/2004 12:27:34
ok, thanks swez, i kindof sure how it hooks up, last question when i have the 3 pairs of negative do i but all of them in the far negative output of the amp? and do i put the other pair in the far positive output of the amp?you know like bridge them? (i was told you cann't bridge 500/1 or 1000/1) i just cann't see 3 wires fitting in the output of the amp. brthanks br
swez on 02/20/2004 16:56:51
Your best bet, would be to pick up a pair of barrier strip wire termination rails. Each strip should have 4 terminals and common bridging strips between all 4. That allows all 4 terminals to be cleanly connected to each other.
You will need 3 terminals... 1 for each woofer wire and one that leads to the amp output lug. The same process is used on NEG and POS wires so a pair of wiring strips are needed.
Here's what they look like and you will have to run some bridging wires down the output side of each strip, so all 4 wires are in the same circuit as parallel connections. #12 gage wire to woofers is fine. May want to use #8-10 gage out to amp.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&User_ID=18364795&St=8383&St2=80018967&St3=58183842&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=2403&DID=7
Swez
Bridges between top rail screws, #4 Output to amp, #5 not used
*____*____*____*____*
*.......*.......*........*.......*
w1---w2---w3---open---open
Hard to draw this right on this format.
gobber on 02/22/2004 09:48:14
Swez, by using termination rails is it going to add any big deal of resistances? do they make a cover for them? so just so, if something like wire or a piece of metal hit it, it wouldn't short out.
one pair of rails will be for pos. and the other one will be for the neg. right? then i just hook them up 3 pos. to one and 3 neg. to the other (to the speaker). then i take a piece of 8 or 10 gage wire from the amp neg. to the neg. of the speaker rail. and the same for pos.
thanks again
swez on 02/22/2004 10:43:11
Yep, you have the right idea and no... the terminals do not add resistance enough to cause any problems. (<0.1 ohms maybe)
As for mounting and covering, not really needed is you mount the rails inside the box. No chance of wires shorting this way and all the bundled wires are out of the way. If you wish, a small flap of rubber or flexible plastic can be employed to cover the terminals, after the wiring is in place. A few staples will hold it in place and no shorting is possible with the shield in place.
Also, you can install a terminal cup at the back or side of the box that uses binding posts to handle the #8 gage wires to the cup, then to amp. These can be ordered from PE as well. A nice finished look this way.
Look here:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&User_ID=18364795&St=8383&St2=80018967&St3=58183842&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=5679&DID=7
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&User_ID=18364795&St=8383&St2=80018967&St3=58183842&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=5681&DID=7
These will do just fine. #8 gage wire and can use banana plugs to terminate between amp and cup for easy disconnect from box to amp. You may wish to use banana plugs on the amp terminal side if the amp has that termination feature and if you use them on the box wiring side as well, make sure you disconnect from the amp first, then box to prevent shorts. Wrapping the cup side plug with electrical tape or a plastic sleeve will work too, but tape tends to leave a sticky residue.
BANANA PLUGS:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&User_ID=18364795&St=8383&St2=80018967&St3=58183842&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=2462&DID=7
There ya go sport... how does this look to you?
Swez
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