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ok i have a my zapco ref. 750 going to my two 12 diamond audio m6-d4's. i was maybe looking on getting a 15 or a 18? just to have a lil' more bass. would a 15 or the 18 be louder then my two 12's? with my crossfire cfa-1000d (1000w rms) i did 143 db. now that i have the zapco it still sounds about the same, i like my zapco better. its hard to say what i am looking for, im just bored and want a change. the new sub that i was going to get has to be in a ported box and has to handle about 500-900 rms. my zapco is 750rms but birth sheat says bursts to 1020w. i do not want a new sub so i will be looking on ebay. what are some good brands to buy? i was looking at the audiobahn aw1805 sub? this change is not going to be forever i just want to hear some different brands and diff. sizes. so any 2 cents worth is good!!! GRIN thanks Replies (14) cplkittle on 02/14/2004 10:20:08 You can't get much better than Zapco as far as amplifiers go. As far as subs, Diamonds are on up there too.. They do have a TDX series out that is a step up from the m6 series. the 12s are rated at 1000w max. (kevlar cone, sens. 91db, but overall not much of a step up. and I personally like the black cone over the kevlar dirty canvas look). I would look at the audiobahn immortal series, or study deep on JL subs. JL puts in alot of lab time testing their equiptment, not just releasing a bad ass looking sub. The W7s are considered their spl drivers, while the W6's are a little better on the SQ scale. Audiobahn will probably be the most widely available low priced sub on ebay, however, Audiobahn does not support online sales (no warranties whatsoever from Audiobahn). JBL has some monsters out as well, the Gti series is right up there with the W6's and W7's, well maybe not quite up to the W7, but a close comparison. Kicker has also introduced the SOLO X in 10" and 12" models, but I think they are around 1000w RMS. In my experience, once you pass the 12" size you seriously start to lose SQ on a steep slope, excluding the JL13W7. I built a transmission line enclosure for 2 CM3 D10s about two months ago, and the owner of the shop thought I installed two 12's. no joke! Basically, IMO, it is going to be hard to beat 2 M6's, and I assume these are ported, since you said the new subs had to fit a ported box. Do you know offhand what freq the box is tuned at? Some changes in the box could yield some stronger lows. ckoscin2 on 02/14/2004 12:28:14 im not sure what my box is tuned to. my box is 1.5 cube ft a side with a 3" diamator port about a foot long. not sure how log it is i will have to mesure it later? does this help any? i heard from a kid on ebay that he was selling his diamonds, he called up diamond and told them what kind of car that he drove and they made him a box? thanksbrbrp.s. i dont really want to make a box, and i dont want to spend alot of $$$ for someone to make it for me? but i guess if investing in a good box is the key then i can do that.br cplkittle on 02/14/2004 12:33:28 What type of box is it and where did you buy it? Also, are you interested in building your own? cplkittle on 02/14/2004 12:40:10 ok, now that you revised your reply, I will come at this from a different angle... The box is the key to good sound for your subs, and since you purchased diamonds, I would definitely get them in the proper enclosure. You will be surprised by the difference. ckoscin2 on 02/15/2004 01:22:45 i got my box off a friend of mine that he got it from a local car audio place witch is no longer in business(chap audio). i dont really want to build my own. i think it would be a bad idea if i did that !!! where could i get the "right" box for my diamonds? big apple music out of watertown, NY deals with diamond audio. should i talk to them its about a hours drive away from me. what kind of box wouuld be good for my m6's? cplkittle on 02/15/2004 09:21:55 According to the manufacturer, a ported box with a volume of 1.5^ft, tuned to 35Hz, with one port 4" dia, 18" long. The specs are the same for the M6 12D2 and the 12D4. ckoscin2 on 02/16/2004 01:13:18 so how big does my box have to be ? i dont even want to get into building a box. could i take this info to my local shop and say i have 2 12" daimond audio's and they need to be in a box 1.5^ft with a port 4" dia and 18" long? or is it really really really easy to make a box? i know in the start i didnt want to spend alot of money but if this is goin to make a really big diff then it will be worth the caust. cplkittle on 02/16/2004 01:33:16 If you got a good deal, you probably spent $400 on those diamonds. Getting a simple custom box is worth another $200. ckoscin2 on 02/16/2004 15:29:43 so your saying that i could have my local shop do it ? do you think it would be worth it ? erikcooper on 02/17/2004 00:04:37 Before doing that you may check some places online that make boxes. That sounds like a box that some may already have pre-made. ckoscin2 on 02/20/2004 01:41:34 where could i look for that ? sorry for taking so long on the reply swez on 02/20/2004 08:46:07 Seems to me, your current box is the right cf/chamber already. The port you have now is what 3" dia., and 12" long. Simply swapping out the original ports for 4" dia., x 18" L., will net a well tuned box which is very much in line with Diamond specs. This will not be a huge expense, but it could be a bit tricky, depending on how deep your present enclosure is. A 4" PVC pipe will work fine and if you had to add a 90 degree elbow to get the proper length, that is not too hard for a fairly handy person. Getting the 3" dia., hole bored out to 4" PVC O.D. is the hard part. You'd have to pull the subs, install a 5" x 5" x 1/2" square plate and drill out the center carefully with a hole saw, router or Roto Zip circle cutter. Then install your new ports and subs. Viola! Swez PS PVC is white off the rack. You may want to paint it to make it look like a custom piece of work. ckoscin2 on 02/22/2004 02:12:10 ok swez, you have to explain the 5x5x.5 plate more and how would i do the 90* turn? swez on 02/22/2004 10:04:19 The 5x5 plates (better if you used 6x6" if you have the space) are alignment blocks to cut your new 4" holes in the same location as the present 3" port holes. These blocks will help center your circle cutting tool and give it a precise cut. It would be best to mount the blocks on the inside face of the speaker baffle panel. Can affix with screws or even hot glue and then removed, after the holes are fully cut. (hot glue would be easiest and the plates are easily pried out after the holes are cut) Take the blocks, and with a ruler, make an "X" from 2 diagonal lines that extend from opposing corners. Where the lines intersect... that is exact center. A small pilot hole in the center (centered in the present hole, will help you align the pending hole, exactly over the present hole. Got it? Now, about the new ports... where are they located on the box now? Some are side mounted, top mounted, face mounted or back mounted. Knowing this, and the amount of space you have to the opposite wall, will help determine how to install the port and whether a 90 degree elbow is needed or not. The back mouth of the port will need to have ~6" of clearance from any hard wall surface for air flow. If you do not have 18"s + 6" (24" in all) an elbow is needed to give you all 18" of port and 6" of clearance from any wall. Do you get the picture yet? Swez Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved |