i have a 96' nissan regular cab truck and I just want clear sound with good highs lows and mids---iam 6' tall and my seat has to go all the way back...i am looking for speaker and amp suggestions to fit these parameters....i am 35 years old but i still like it loud but clean.....i only have 5 hundred bucks...i have a 4 year old supertuner3 - 2new pioneer 3 way 6*9s...2 garden variety tweeters...thanks
Replies (26)
cgorman68 on 02/3/2004 02:11:51
$500? Qlogic makes custom boxes for single cab trucks. They allow full seat travel. I think they come with a choice of a 12" RF RFZ sub, or 10" and 12" MTX subs. They have some that go in the doors... Some that go behing the seats... Worth checking out.
cplkittle on 02/3/2004 10:59:31
With limited space and a small cabin, sealed subs are the general recommendation, However you did mention the word 'clear'.
I would recommend visiting your local circuit city and listening to the new bazooka P.Miller series (endorsed by Master P). They have a very clean smooth sound to them. One 12 and an amplifier of the same series will run you around $400. I wouldn't go any larger than a 400w sub, if you do, you will end up needing additional amplifiers and upgrades on your mids and highs to balance with the power of the bass. The one I listened to was in its own premanufactured tube style ported enclosure.
And long live the super tuner III I have always like Pioneer HUs. Never had any trouble from them, even the older models.
erikcooper on 02/3/2004 11:14:44
Yes Q-logic does have those enclosures but they would push that budget hard when trying to get good drivers and amps to go along with it. The best suggestion here would be to build the enclosure yourself. While it takes time we could help you through it easily. I will be the first here to tell you that the component speakers, including mids and highs, of choice will be the CDT CL-61a for your price range. They have them from thezeb.com for $149.99 right now. It is a special price on some sets that had a duller paint shade. I got them and they sound great. I haven't gotten them hooked up in my own ride yet but tested them in a friends. brbrNow on subs it would be hard to find a great sub and great amp in this price range added to the CDTs. On this budget I would suggest running the CDTs off of the HU, for now at least. They will still sound great.brbrOne suggestion to add would be to get the JBL BP600.1 amp and use it to push an Elemental Designs e10A.22 This sub is seen in good light here and would give you hard, clean bass being pushed by this amp. It has an RMS of 650w and the amp will push 600. The only problem with this is that added to the CDTs the total price would be about $600, and that isn't shipped.brbrCDTs = $149.99brED e10A.22 = $270.00brJBL BP600.1 = $179.00brTotal = $598.99brbrYou would still have to build your box and get wiring accessories but this would be a killer set-up. If you absolutely cannot do this let me know, I will try and find others. I am sure others here will have input as well.brbrbrBTW I just saw that shipping on the ED sub would be $22.80.br
erikcooper on 02/3/2004 11:16:36
To comment on what CPL said, as it was posted while I was typing, would he have room for that tube in that cab?
I will try and think on what a good sub for 400w or less would be.
cplkittle on 02/3/2004 11:23:22
The 12" bazooka sub I saw was in a box no taller than 16", and no wider than 14". I am sure a 10 would do, but if a 12 would fit, and I am thinking it might, and still allow room to move the seat back and recline...
Saint, What are we looking at as far as space goes? behind the seat or passenger seat if necessary, or do you have bench seats?
ok, so I need some sleep... I just realized what size truck he has.
The tube might not work. I would still like to know what size we are looking at.
Also, just how loud do you want it?
erikcooper on 02/3/2004 11:31:37
If we can find some way to get a good sub and amp combo for less than $350 we would be doing good. That would let him get the CDTs, which would keep up with the subs easily I would say, even being pushed off the HU.
cplkittle on 02/4/2004 09:51:43
how about just a pair of powered bazooka tubes. Not exactly competition, but for small easy install, and above average sound, they should do fine. 8"sub w/amp $125-$150ea on ebay (new).
asplundher on 02/4/2004 10:40:30
In my opinion, the Us Acoustics 4065 or 4085 will be a better choice for amp. They're very affordable, versatile with high quality build (.01% thd, rated @12.9volts). They will be able to run both doors and sub. Then a component set will still be affordable with plenty left over for a good sub. I think some more research should be put into the available space though. At his height, I doubt you'll get anything bigger than a 8" in a thin truck box. Besides, an 8" or two will not overtake the highs as bad as a 10" or higher in the small cab. Plus they will have more room to tweak the Qtc. Also, check with Parts Express. They have some nice component sets (Phoenix Gold for instance) for around $100. That should give you more spending power when you get to the little stuff like wiring and such.
cplkittle on 02/4/2004 12:52:15
I think this is worth looking at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3072233982
Infinity
10" woofer and 10" passive radiator
clear chassis
200-watt Class D amplifier
frequency response 20-120 Hz
low-pass crossover variable from 50- 120 Hz at 12 dB per octave
bass boost feature (-6 dB to +3 dB at 40 Hz)
speaker and line-level inputs
20-amp fuse
auto turn-on with speaker-level inputs
remote turn-on lead (12V) required for use with RCA inputs
two 19-foot universal interface speaker-level input wiring harnesses included
14-1/2"W x 13-3/8"H x 9-7/8"D (vertical mount), 14-1/2"W x 9-1/2"H x 15-3/16"D(horizontal mount).
$225
asplundher on 02/4/2004 13:09:11
That's a pretty good deal! I'm still kinda leary about the space behind the seat though. I myself drive a mazda b2000 regular cab and at 6'1" there's not much room. I have two hollywood excursion 8"s in separate boxes est-12"h x 15"w x 7"d or so. Just enough room for me. I'd like to say about one notch from the farthest position. Any closer is kinda cramped. I think he needs to take some measurements before going any further.
cplkittle on 02/4/2004 13:13:39
I was mainly interested in the passive radiator feature.. Haven't seen this in car audio as far as prefab units go.
I have a friend that has a hollywood excursion 15", it is only the third or 4th 15" sub I have seen & heard installed, but it hits loud and cleaner than any other. Do the 8's you have stand out in comparison? Just curious, I don't hear much about these speakers.
asplundher on 02/4/2004 13:22:13
I get compliments on them more than I thought I would. Unfortunately they are discontinued. Only a few brochures showed them when that line first came out. Why do they stop a good thing I don't have a clue! They handle a punch 150 pretty well and sounded clean with good spl. Never had them bottom out on me.
asplundher on 02/4/2004 13:32:46
Out of curiousity, anyone ever heard one play before?br I've always wondered how they would sound. Back to the matter at hand. Without those measuerments it would be futile to plan on anything for even most prefab truck boxes are designed to fit a few vehicles, but not all. With him being that tall, more than likely he might have to have one custom made as I did.
erikcooper on 02/4/2004 14:05:24
I haven't, i don't think. I may have heard one but I didn't know it if I did.
cgorman68 on 02/4/2004 21:19:33
I have a single cab truck and was wondering if building a custom box that filled up everything behind the seat would be a good idea. It seems pretty easy, just have to make room for the driveshaft. Has anybody else seen or done that?
erikcooper on 02/5/2004 00:17:40
make room for the driveshaft? inside the truck?
asplundher on 02/5/2004 00:20:33
The main key here is to utilize the available space to the best you can. I've seen the type you are talking about to dual enclosures to one single enclosure on (one sub). I guess it all depends on your application. Example: what size sub & how many; available space & airspace required; desired Q level or alignment, etc. Whatever you decide to do plot it out so it will be less of a headache in the end.
Buickman94 on 02/5/2004 20:19:43
I would also check out RE 8s. Great little sub that gets impressivly low and loud for an 8. They also work well in really small boxes, worth a look: www.respl.com
cgorman68 on 02/5/2004 22:39:05
I need room for the driveshaft becasue there's a hump in the cab. Hard to explain. _________['''''''''''''']_________. It looks like that underneath the window.
erikcooper on 02/5/2004 23:10:12
Ok, makes sense now. That isn't hard to work around.
swez on 02/6/2004 12:45:04
I agree with CPL... that Infinity Bass Link might be a good option. Small in size, built in amp and the passive radiator nets the performacne of a ported enclosure w/o the bulk. Very accurate bass this way too.
Since you are an older guy, am sure you want clarity all the way around... Highs/Mids and sub. In a small cabin, it will not take a lot of bass power to get some nice lows. No, won't blow out your windows here... but a well balanced setup will still get you well over 110dB of bass SPL and a tad less for mids and highs when using the Pioneer HU amps.
Adding some quality Mid/highs speakers down the road will definitely improve your listening enjoyment here.
Swez
saintanddolphin on 02/6/2004 20:17:32
ok guys this is what i have come up with...I found a crossfire tek 50.2 for $129.00on clearance @ caraudioshopping.com and bought it..1 12" xplod sub for 79.99...It has been tough the last 2 days but i have managed to build a box that fits...i could only use half inch ply wood because of the limited space....now i need help onthe electronic side...best way to set it all up...hu,2 6x9's,the new amp and sub...p.s. it has been a long time since i have had this much fun and frustration at the same time....i appreciate all of you guys help
swez on 02/6/2004 21:04:23
Two channel Crossfire can be bridged to MONO for max power to the sub. Since Sony 12" is a 4 ohm SVC design, a good match.
As for enclosure, I would stay pretty much between 0.85 - 1.20 cf internally for this sub. The larger the box, the better your low end extension will be.
As for wiring, am sure #8 gage power and ground wire are plenty good for this modest amp. You'll need a terminal connector for the POS side battery terminal to #8 gage power wire, a fuse within 18" of the battery, then run the balance of your power wire, back to the amp location. A #8 gage ground wire is also needed near the amp. Try to keep it undcer 2 feet if possible and connect to body floor pan with all paint removed... ( a 2" circle is fine) can use a 1/4" x20 bolt or #8 x1 sheet metal screw to attach ground wire to body ground. Seal the bare metal with silicone to prevent rust etc.
Your Pioneer HU... does it have RCA level preamp outs? If yes, use them for best for signal/noise ratios. If no RCA's, can either tap rear speaker leads and feed them (R&L channels) to amp high signal input side of amp. If amp has only RCA style inputs, will have to buy a Line Out Convertor to drop speaker voltage to match amp input voltage range.
Finally, does your HU have a power antenna or REMOTE power feed line? This is usually Blue or Blue/white stripe. This wire needs to be extended back to the amp REM's B+ input lug. This turns on the amp when the HU is switched on. If you do not have that feature on this HU, will have to hardwire a +12 lead from fuse panel to amps' REM input. The IGN/ACC circuit is the one to tap. Fuse this wire near the fuse box with a 3A. inline fuse.
Swez
PS If your HU has 4 channel outputs for speakers, you may want to use the front channels for door speakers of the best quality you can afford. If no rear speakers are used in rear, these wires can be used to obtain input signals to your 2 channel sub amp.
Most small cabin PU's can sound very nice with quality Comps in front, and sub volume is controlled off the rear channel of the HU fader. Easy deal and less hassles this way.
saintanddolphin on 02/6/2004 21:27:51
thanks swez..my hu has rca and remote capabilities...since i have a few bucks left could i add a second amp for my 6x9's...or can i just run them off of my new amp?...the paperwork for the amp says that it is both stereo and mono capable...i dont know if that means you can do both at once...if not how could i split the signal from the hu to run a second amp...thanks saint
cplkittle on 02/7/2004 13:45:50
Splitting the signal through an RCA 'Y' is not really recommended. The power the stereo puts out through the RCAs (avg around 2.2-2.5v) will determine the clarity of the sound. When you split the RCAs you split the power as well, and lose sound quality. Another thing, if you only have one pair of RCA outs on the back of your HU, most likely they are sub preouts. If you have 2 or 3 pair of RCA outs on the other hand, it will be simple to add an amplifier.
If not, you can always get a converter that switches speaker wire to RCA wire. I highly recommend using RCA inputs on an amplifier, they are much simpler and you get a cleaner sound. High level imputs (straight wire) usually carryover alot of engine noise (fuzz), alternator noise (whine) and I have heard some pop real loud when the brake lights or blinkers come on.
saintanddolphin on 02/10/2004 17:30:52
i have installed the sub and box(tight fit)behind the seat..bridged the amp and installed 2-6x9's(1 in each door)...the sub sound good no distortion, humming, buzzinng,whining etc...fells like a good install...i only have 1 set of pre outs on the hu.i installed a line converter on the front channel speaker wires to install additional amp for the 2 6x9's...i dont like it...i am not sure if i should have used both channels on the second amp for the two 6x9's (1 on each channel) just run them both off of one channel(parallel) i have read faqs on this subject but these articles only refer to subs ...just not to sure about this ...any help would be appreciated....mike
Replies (26)
cgorman68 on 02/3/2004 02:11:51
$500? Qlogic makes custom boxes for single cab trucks. They allow full seat travel. I think they come with a choice of a 12" RF RFZ sub, or 10" and 12" MTX subs. They have some that go in the doors... Some that go behing the seats... Worth checking out.
cplkittle on 02/3/2004 10:59:31
With limited space and a small cabin, sealed subs are the general recommendation, However you did mention the word 'clear'.
I would recommend visiting your local circuit city and listening to the new bazooka P.Miller series (endorsed by Master P). They have a very clean smooth sound to them. One 12 and an amplifier of the same series will run you around $400. I wouldn't go any larger than a 400w sub, if you do, you will end up needing additional amplifiers and upgrades on your mids and highs to balance with the power of the bass. The one I listened to was in its own premanufactured tube style ported enclosure.
And long live the super tuner III I have always like Pioneer HUs. Never had any trouble from them, even the older models.
erikcooper on 02/3/2004 11:14:44
Yes Q-logic does have those enclosures but they would push that budget hard when trying to get good drivers and amps to go along with it. The best suggestion here would be to build the enclosure yourself. While it takes time we could help you through it easily. I will be the first here to tell you that the component speakers, including mids and highs, of choice will be the CDT CL-61a for your price range. They have them from thezeb.com for $149.99 right now. It is a special price on some sets that had a duller paint shade. I got them and they sound great. I haven't gotten them hooked up in my own ride yet but tested them in a friends. brbrNow on subs it would be hard to find a great sub and great amp in this price range added to the CDTs. On this budget I would suggest running the CDTs off of the HU, for now at least. They will still sound great.brbrOne suggestion to add would be to get the JBL BP600.1 amp and use it to push an Elemental Designs e10A.22 This sub is seen in good light here and would give you hard, clean bass being pushed by this amp. It has an RMS of 650w and the amp will push 600. The only problem with this is that added to the CDTs the total price would be about $600, and that isn't shipped.brbrCDTs = $149.99brED e10A.22 = $270.00brJBL BP600.1 = $179.00brTotal = $598.99brbrYou would still have to build your box and get wiring accessories but this would be a killer set-up. If you absolutely cannot do this let me know, I will try and find others. I am sure others here will have input as well.brbrbrBTW I just saw that shipping on the ED sub would be $22.80.br
erikcooper on 02/3/2004 11:16:36
To comment on what CPL said, as it was posted while I was typing, would he have room for that tube in that cab?
I will try and think on what a good sub for 400w or less would be.
cplkittle on 02/3/2004 11:23:22
The 12" bazooka sub I saw was in a box no taller than 16", and no wider than 14". I am sure a 10 would do, but if a 12 would fit, and I am thinking it might, and still allow room to move the seat back and recline...
Saint, What are we looking at as far as space goes? behind the seat or passenger seat if necessary, or do you have bench seats?
ok, so I need some sleep... I just realized what size truck he has.
The tube might not work. I would still like to know what size we are looking at.
Also, just how loud do you want it?
erikcooper on 02/3/2004 11:31:37
If we can find some way to get a good sub and amp combo for less than $350 we would be doing good. That would let him get the CDTs, which would keep up with the subs easily I would say, even being pushed off the HU.
cplkittle on 02/4/2004 09:51:43
how about just a pair of powered bazooka tubes. Not exactly competition, but for small easy install, and above average sound, they should do fine. 8"sub w/amp $125-$150ea on ebay (new).
asplundher on 02/4/2004 10:40:30
In my opinion, the Us Acoustics 4065 or 4085 will be a better choice for amp. They're very affordable, versatile with high quality build (.01% thd, rated @12.9volts). They will be able to run both doors and sub. Then a component set will still be affordable with plenty left over for a good sub. I think some more research should be put into the available space though. At his height, I doubt you'll get anything bigger than a 8" in a thin truck box. Besides, an 8" or two will not overtake the highs as bad as a 10" or higher in the small cab. Plus they will have more room to tweak the Qtc. Also, check with Parts Express. They have some nice component sets (Phoenix Gold for instance) for around $100. That should give you more spending power when you get to the little stuff like wiring and such.
cplkittle on 02/4/2004 12:52:15
I think this is worth looking at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3072233982
Infinity
10" woofer and 10" passive radiator
clear chassis
200-watt Class D amplifier
frequency response 20-120 Hz
low-pass crossover variable from 50- 120 Hz at 12 dB per octave
bass boost feature (-6 dB to +3 dB at 40 Hz)
speaker and line-level inputs
20-amp fuse
auto turn-on with speaker-level inputs
remote turn-on lead (12V) required for use with RCA inputs
two 19-foot universal interface speaker-level input wiring harnesses included
14-1/2"W x 13-3/8"H x 9-7/8"D (vertical mount), 14-1/2"W x 9-1/2"H x 15-3/16"D(horizontal mount).
$225
asplundher on 02/4/2004 13:09:11
That's a pretty good deal! I'm still kinda leary about the space behind the seat though. I myself drive a mazda b2000 regular cab and at 6'1" there's not much room. I have two hollywood excursion 8"s in separate boxes est-12"h x 15"w x 7"d or so. Just enough room for me. I'd like to say about one notch from the farthest position. Any closer is kinda cramped. I think he needs to take some measurements before going any further.
cplkittle on 02/4/2004 13:13:39
I was mainly interested in the passive radiator feature.. Haven't seen this in car audio as far as prefab units go.
I have a friend that has a hollywood excursion 15", it is only the third or 4th 15" sub I have seen & heard installed, but it hits loud and cleaner than any other. Do the 8's you have stand out in comparison? Just curious, I don't hear much about these speakers.
asplundher on 02/4/2004 13:22:13
I get compliments on them more than I thought I would. Unfortunately they are discontinued. Only a few brochures showed them when that line first came out. Why do they stop a good thing I don't have a clue! They handle a punch 150 pretty well and sounded clean with good spl. Never had them bottom out on me.
asplundher on 02/4/2004 13:32:46
Out of curiousity, anyone ever heard one play before?br I've always wondered how they would sound. Back to the matter at hand. Without those measuerments it would be futile to plan on anything for even most prefab truck boxes are designed to fit a few vehicles, but not all. With him being that tall, more than likely he might have to have one custom made as I did.
erikcooper on 02/4/2004 14:05:24
I haven't, i don't think. I may have heard one but I didn't know it if I did.
cgorman68 on 02/4/2004 21:19:33
I have a single cab truck and was wondering if building a custom box that filled up everything behind the seat would be a good idea. It seems pretty easy, just have to make room for the driveshaft. Has anybody else seen or done that?
erikcooper on 02/5/2004 00:17:40
make room for the driveshaft? inside the truck?
asplundher on 02/5/2004 00:20:33
The main key here is to utilize the available space to the best you can. I've seen the type you are talking about to dual enclosures to one single enclosure on (one sub). I guess it all depends on your application. Example: what size sub & how many; available space & airspace required; desired Q level or alignment, etc. Whatever you decide to do plot it out so it will be less of a headache in the end.
Buickman94 on 02/5/2004 20:19:43
I would also check out RE 8s. Great little sub that gets impressivly low and loud for an 8. They also work well in really small boxes, worth a look: www.respl.com
cgorman68 on 02/5/2004 22:39:05
I need room for the driveshaft becasue there's a hump in the cab. Hard to explain. _________['''''''''''''']_________. It looks like that underneath the window.
erikcooper on 02/5/2004 23:10:12
Ok, makes sense now. That isn't hard to work around.
swez on 02/6/2004 12:45:04
I agree with CPL... that Infinity Bass Link might be a good option. Small in size, built in amp and the passive radiator nets the performacne of a ported enclosure w/o the bulk. Very accurate bass this way too.
Since you are an older guy, am sure you want clarity all the way around... Highs/Mids and sub. In a small cabin, it will not take a lot of bass power to get some nice lows. No, won't blow out your windows here... but a well balanced setup will still get you well over 110dB of bass SPL and a tad less for mids and highs when using the Pioneer HU amps.
Adding some quality Mid/highs speakers down the road will definitely improve your listening enjoyment here.
Swez
saintanddolphin on 02/6/2004 20:17:32
ok guys this is what i have come up with...I found a crossfire tek 50.2 for $129.00on clearance @ caraudioshopping.com and bought it..1 12" xplod sub for 79.99...It has been tough the last 2 days but i have managed to build a box that fits...i could only use half inch ply wood because of the limited space....now i need help onthe electronic side...best way to set it all up...hu,2 6x9's,the new amp and sub...p.s. it has been a long time since i have had this much fun and frustration at the same time....i appreciate all of you guys help
swez on 02/6/2004 21:04:23
Two channel Crossfire can be bridged to MONO for max power to the sub. Since Sony 12" is a 4 ohm SVC design, a good match.
As for enclosure, I would stay pretty much between 0.85 - 1.20 cf internally for this sub. The larger the box, the better your low end extension will be.
As for wiring, am sure #8 gage power and ground wire are plenty good for this modest amp. You'll need a terminal connector for the POS side battery terminal to #8 gage power wire, a fuse within 18" of the battery, then run the balance of your power wire, back to the amp location. A #8 gage ground wire is also needed near the amp. Try to keep it undcer 2 feet if possible and connect to body floor pan with all paint removed... ( a 2" circle is fine) can use a 1/4" x20 bolt or #8 x1 sheet metal screw to attach ground wire to body ground. Seal the bare metal with silicone to prevent rust etc.
Your Pioneer HU... does it have RCA level preamp outs? If yes, use them for best for signal/noise ratios. If no RCA's, can either tap rear speaker leads and feed them (R&L channels) to amp high signal input side of amp. If amp has only RCA style inputs, will have to buy a Line Out Convertor to drop speaker voltage to match amp input voltage range.
Finally, does your HU have a power antenna or REMOTE power feed line? This is usually Blue or Blue/white stripe. This wire needs to be extended back to the amp REM's B+ input lug. This turns on the amp when the HU is switched on. If you do not have that feature on this HU, will have to hardwire a +12 lead from fuse panel to amps' REM input. The IGN/ACC circuit is the one to tap. Fuse this wire near the fuse box with a 3A. inline fuse.
Swez
PS If your HU has 4 channel outputs for speakers, you may want to use the front channels for door speakers of the best quality you can afford. If no rear speakers are used in rear, these wires can be used to obtain input signals to your 2 channel sub amp.
Most small cabin PU's can sound very nice with quality Comps in front, and sub volume is controlled off the rear channel of the HU fader. Easy deal and less hassles this way.
saintanddolphin on 02/6/2004 21:27:51
thanks swez..my hu has rca and remote capabilities...since i have a few bucks left could i add a second amp for my 6x9's...or can i just run them off of my new amp?...the paperwork for the amp says that it is both stereo and mono capable...i dont know if that means you can do both at once...if not how could i split the signal from the hu to run a second amp...thanks saint
cplkittle on 02/7/2004 13:45:50
Splitting the signal through an RCA 'Y' is not really recommended. The power the stereo puts out through the RCAs (avg around 2.2-2.5v) will determine the clarity of the sound. When you split the RCAs you split the power as well, and lose sound quality. Another thing, if you only have one pair of RCA outs on the back of your HU, most likely they are sub preouts. If you have 2 or 3 pair of RCA outs on the other hand, it will be simple to add an amplifier.
If not, you can always get a converter that switches speaker wire to RCA wire. I highly recommend using RCA inputs on an amplifier, they are much simpler and you get a cleaner sound. High level imputs (straight wire) usually carryover alot of engine noise (fuzz), alternator noise (whine) and I have heard some pop real loud when the brake lights or blinkers come on.
saintanddolphin on 02/10/2004 17:30:52
i have installed the sub and box(tight fit)behind the seat..bridged the amp and installed 2-6x9's(1 in each door)...the sub sound good no distortion, humming, buzzinng,whining etc...fells like a good install...i only have 1 set of pre outs on the hu.i installed a line converter on the front channel speaker wires to install additional amp for the 2 6x9's...i dont like it...i am not sure if i should have used both channels on the second amp for the two 6x9's (1 on each channel) just run them both off of one channel(parallel) i have read faqs on this subject but these articles only refer to subs ...just not to sure about this ...any help would be appreciated....mike
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