Hi, I finally got all my stuff together and still a bit confused on some things. My install is in a Ford F-250 Crew cab truck. For now I'm having to use the factory headunit, but plan to upgrade later. I have a Kicker KX 800.4 4 channel amp to power a pair of Kicker RS5 component speakers for the front doors. Also a Pair of Kicker K693 3 way's for the rear. I plant to run the amp in the 4 channel mode to the 4 speakers. Then I have a 10" Kicker TVCR sub in a sealed box designed to be behind the rear seat. I plan to push the sub with a California 600 MSXMono amp. I'm confused about where to pick signal up from the factory headunit to go into the High Level inputs. Also, how to I pick up signal input into the Mono amp for the sub? Can I run the 2 amp wires together to the remote turn on wire to get power? And finally, should I run the 2 - 4 guage wires to the batteries seperatly, or get a block to wire the 2 amps together and run 1 wire to the battery? Also I want a lot of bass and do you guys think the 1 10" sub will provide good bass or should I add another? Long story, but thanks for any help.
Replies (24)
erikcooper on 01/13/2004 09:48:53
Which Kicker ten do you have? The Comp or Comp VR? To get a lot of bass out of 10s will take some good 10s really. I don't think that the Comp line would do it. You should probably go with the Solo-Baric L5 or L7. L7 would be best bet from kicker in a 10 but L5 would be much better than the Comp or Comp VR.
ttocs on 01/13/2004 11:09:06
if you are planning on replacing the headunit, you will save yourself alot of time if you tap the signal behind the deck, use a loc, and run rca's to the amps. This way when you do replace the deck all you have to do is plug the rca's in, rather then re-run anything.....
ram1 on 01/13/2004 23:48:46
eric, I have the comp VR. I had a feeling I might not be going to get bass that will get the neighbors attention. Maybe I should get something different. ttocs, just after posting I was reading somewhere in here about converting to the RCA, thanks guys for the advice. Do you guys think I should go with 1 or 2 10" L5 or L7s? I kinda have to squeeze them behind the back seat and I guess I almost have to go with a sealed box right? Thanks
fitz1465 on 01/13/2004 23:00:52
absolutely, i agree with ttocs on the LOC (line output converter). stinger makes a nice LOC that has an attenuator so you can control the strength of the signal going through the LOC.
ram1, i always run a LOC when interfacing with a factory unit to easily add an aftermarket head unit later and it cuts down on the noise interference the amp gets from running high level inputs. in my experience, NEVER run high level inputs unless abolutely necessary just because of in line noise.
please assure yourself in the future for car audio that you will not by a cheap california amp for a kicker sytem. you already have the kicker 800.4 amp, you should have got another kicker amp for the sub...kicker amps are amazing from my experiences with many amps, plus there is a reason that many of your car audio enthusiasts at audio shows run kicker amps and subs...they SOUND the best for the money in my opinion.
let's start from begining friend.
to hook up the LOC, you will need to connect the speaker +/- wires to the LOC before running the interconnects to the amps. you will probably need 2 LOC's to run enough interconnects if the cali amp does not have a low level output. to find which speakers are positive and negative for a speaker, trim the cover off the two wires going to the speaker and connect a 1.5v AA battery to the two wires. if the positive wire for the speaker is touching the positive end of the little battery in your hand, then the cone of the speaker should move visibly outward. if it does not, then switch the wires to make the cone "pop" out. then you will know how to match the +/- connection on the LOC.
as far as power wires, i never daisy chain battery + wires to amps. it is trashy looking and can leave an amp very unpowered. i have done this to low powered systems when people had no $ and it does work, but i DON'T recommend it.
with those two amps running at the power you will draw, i recommend 0/1 ga from the battery to a distribution block and split to two 4ga to the amps from the blocks.
the 800.4 is a monstrous amp to run the mids and highs off of. 100 w rms per channel on four speakers you will find is loud as hell in a truck. even 50w rms on some components and the 6x9's would have been more than enough in your truck especially with only one 10 stuffed behind the seat. you will probably find that you will have to turn the 800.4 amp down to match the bass output of a music program otherwise you will be hearing a lot of high outdoing the low. make sure the 800.4 amp is has at least a 4 ga wire running to it. kicker recommends 2ga but that is for running the amp at full power in say all channels at 2 ohms. your class D amp will draw little power because of it's efficiency.
it is ok to daisy chain 12v turn on wires to amps though for you are just trying to get the amp to turn on. i always run two or three amps like this and it works fine.
as far as bass goes my friend. you are going to have a heck of a time getting that 10 in a sealed box to pound the way you probably are hoping. sealed boxes are for SQ (sound quality) not SPL (sound pressure levels). if you are looking for boom in a truck with subs stashed behind the seats, here is my system for you.
your 800.4 amp running the four mids and highs. get another Comp VR sub so you have two of them and get a good 300W a piece to those subs behind your seats. i don't know what your cali amp pushes, but i would sell it and look for a KX600.1 to power the two Comp VR subs. this is your ideal system for that super duty of yours. good luck and write back if any questions.
a long question deserves a long answer, right???
ram1 on 01/14/2004 00:07:16
fitz, thanks so much for everything. You clarified alot of things that were kind of confusing to me. That Cali amp, I'm taking your advice and my brother in law already wanted it, so thats an easy deal, and I/m going to just get another 10 and go with another Kicker amp. Thanks ,you guys help us not so experienced people in here to avoid making mistakes before we do then, wonder whats wrong.. Really do appreciate all the advice. Only thing I,m still wondering is about my choice of the sealed boxes for the subs. I bought the sub from Kicker already set-up that way. I didnt think a different type of box would work behind the seat, or will the 2 subs hit pretty hard in the sealed boxes? Thanks again
erikcooper on 01/14/2004 00:23:44
ram1, before you buy another Comp Vr let me ask you something. Exactly what kind of bass are you looking for? Do you want something that can get loud on certain notes and will rumble you a decent ammount on those notes or do you want something that, if you wanted it to, would be to much? I prefer the latter because I like that kind of bass and I can always turn it down to be sure I get a good match if I am wanting some good quality sounding music. Let me know which one you want and I will let you know which speakers to get. I may also have a good recomendation, especially confirmed on this forum, to fit it just right. I can also probably fit you on the enclosure.
ram1 on 01/14/2004 00:34:56
I guess its kinda the type of bass that you could feel in your chest kinda bass. Low rumble type. I listen to all kinds of music but mainly a lot of rap nelly, ying yang stuff. Know what I mean eric?
erikcooper on 01/14/2004 00:38:09
I know exactly what you mean, that is what I use my bass for SMILE So what money range are you looking in for these subs and sub amp combined? Or does it matter? I am not gonna put you very high regardless, especially in your limited room, but I could probably suggest you a good combination. I will find the prices while I await your reply.
ram1 on 01/14/2004 00:44:51
I guess somewhere around $400 cause I can seel the Cali amp
erikcooper on 01/14/2004 00:48:28
Ok, you can get the two L7 10"s for $290 on ebay. For an amp (this is just price quotes for you, I know it is to much) a Kicker SX1250.1 would push them for $620, a Kicker KX1200.1 would for $365, or, my recomendation, a JBL BP1200.1 would push them, maybe better, for $220.
This would be a little over $400 though so if you would like to go with the L5s and lose maybe 150w per sub then let me know. I will look up prices on the L5s and a good amp match.
Also, if you do not have to have Kicker I may can find you some subs from Audiobahn that will pull the same watts for quite a bit less cash.
I am going to hit the bed but I will check and reply by at least 9 a.m. central time tomorrow.
erikcooper on 01/14/2004 00:53:09
Oh, yah. I meant to add, you could probably fit a ported box back there since you are going with 10"s and nothing bigger. Once we decide with subs you want I will be able to tell you if you can.
ram1 on 01/14/2004 00:52:12
OK, that would be a big improvement over what I was going to do. If I can talk my brother in law into the TVCR too, I could probably beg enough to go with the L7s, would they have boxes to fit behind the seat of the truck. It is a crew cab and pretty big back there? Would I use a different type box other than sealed?
ram1 on 01/14/2004 00:56:21
OK thanks eric, I'll see what I can do tomorrow and we can go from there Thanks
Munchiesyumm on 01/14/2004 02:27:43
Kicker Solo-Baric S8L7-2 $125.00 each
450 watts RMS
+
JBL BP600.1 $189
Output 2 Ohms: 600W x 1
Signal-to-Noise (dBA): >100
Frequency Response (±3dB): 20Hz - 500Hz
Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.1%
both can be found on www.ikesound.com and of course ebay.
JBL amplifers are one of the very few high quality amplifers around. They are underrated power rise and reach their RMS rating at 12.9V which many amplifers need 14.4V to reach their max power outs which many cars cannot support. They are cost effective and very high quality.
erikcooper on 01/14/2004 09:51:15
If you want to go ahead and go with the L7 10s then it would match up perfectly with the JBL BP1200.1 in watts. Being 10"s and you say it has quite a bit of room I would venture to say that you could probably make a ported box for them without much hassle. I will look up the enclosure size that Kicker recommends and see how it works. The reason I am saying ported instead of sealed is because, although it takes mroe room, it will give you more SPL.
Did you decide you want to stay with the Kicker subs or do you want some quotes on the Audiobahns?
Here are some Audiobahns you can ponder.
AW1000Q - 600w RMS $89.99 each
Would match the JBL amp well.
ALUM10Q - 800w RMS $219.99 for 2
Would be a little underpowered with the JBL amp but wound sound much better than the AW1000Q as these are made for sound quality, but have the watts to hit hard. If I can find this one as a buy one option you could even use one of these with the JBL BP600.1 and it would sound good and hit hard. I will see what I can find.
1 ALUM10Q would be around $120 and would probably work pretty good with the JBL BP600.1
JBL BP600.1 is between $170 and $180
Note: These are all ebay prices, but for new items, not used.
fitz1465 on 01/14/2004 17:29:53
oh god an audiobahn fan........help us, but i like the JBL amps a lot especially the new crown series they have....wow these amps kick butt. you should see the BIG one.
it is from my experience and knowledge that audiobahn is a fad for high schoolers that have little money to purchase quality equipment or people who want cheap stuff to pump a lot of watts to. i never recommend audiobahn to anyone because i think their subs sound dirty but if you want just pounding bass put a couple in a ported box and fire away. i also think the surrounds on the subs are absolute crud, just not an audiobahn fan fellas.
sorry ram1 for not clarifying about the boxes.......you may have room for a ported box in the back if you want loads of low bass that sounds kinds of like one sound to me, but those ported enclosures definitely give off some low tones. if you cannot fit a ported box that is why i recommended the 2 compVR's in sealed boxes behind the seats because i thought your truck was a standard cab. eric sounds like he's willing to help with the dimensions of that box and the Kicker L7's, so that's cool. these subs pound and sound great, they just cost a little more than the compVR's. sealed boxes have a smoother rolloff and punch hard and handle a lot of power and are the most accurate enclosure for musical reproduction. it's just whatever you like. just please stay away from that audiobahn stuff for quality products' sake and great job for getting rid of that cali amp to your bro.
ebay is almost always the cheapest place to find stuff. go with what you want but there is a difference in selling products with time and effort put into technology and quality parts....aka....JL AUDIO,JBL, MTX, KICKER, FOCAL, PIONEER, MCINTOSH, etc and then there are companies that need hot chicks to sell cheap stuff like..........Audiobahn, Bazooka, MA Audio, etc.
Munchiesyumm on 01/14/2004 19:51:52
ram1 what do you currently have and what do you plan on getting?
I believe you said you already have a sub? If you already bought one it doesn't make sense to sell it and buy different one. The Comp VR subs will do just fine. Please remember these subs will be in a small area, one 10 in a F-250 would do just fine, throwing two 10s going to be a lot no matter what kickers you get.
It seems mostly clear to me you are on a tight budget so don't spend more than you have to. Let's try to work with what you have.
Could you please refresh what you have currently with MODEL numbers please? Let's get it stright what you're really looking into doing.
cplkittle on 01/14/2004 20:53:02
lol fitz. I buy anything if a pretty girl is pushing it.
seriously, not to be too biased, I did replace everything with audiobahn in my car (speakers only) I had polk 6.5's in the front, and blaus 6.5 in the rear, and an old pair of JBL loud and clear 12's in the back.
The 12's I like, and are still there, the 3 1/2's bahns I put up front are somewhere in the back yard now, and the 6x8 bahns made a good Christmas present for the $10 gift limit at work. Bahn subs are, in my opinion are decent, the comps suck.
erikcooper on 01/14/2004 23:50:57
Yea, I don't support Bahn components. The subs are just a lot more wattage for the dollar. If it was just a little bit higher watts it would be different, but it is a lot more. I like power and I like to have big bass when I want it. If I don't want it I can just turn it down. And if you have good components then the subs bass will sound good as long as it is hitting and isn't over/under powered.
ram1 on 01/15/2004 04:06:57
Sorry guys, couldn't get in here till late tonight, but interesting stuff here. Thanks Eric for checking on everything too. I do have the 1 Kicker TCVR 10 in a sealed box, designed for behind the seat and like we were saying , I have that California series 600MSX { RMS Power @ 4 ohm= 1x300W } RMS power @ 2 ohm= 1x410w } and I'm a little confused on that too, could someone give me a quick explaination of that? Anyway, I am on a kinda tight budget, but I can sell the sub and amp if you guys think I should use 2 different subs and a different amp. The F-250 is a crew cab, so it does have a lot of room behind the rear seat, I have to measure back there and let you guys know what exactly it is dimension wise. Like I was telling Eric, I hoped to get really big bass, rumbly kind of feel it in the chest type ya know? I'll measure it back there and let you know what kind of room there is exactly. I'd been here sooner, but had to go away tonight uncle died.. Talk later
cplkittle on 01/15/2004 16:08:26
what are you confused about as far as the RMS on the california series amp?
ram1 on 01/15/2004 23:34:33
I'm not fully understanding what it means by RMS power @ 4 OHM or 2 OHM. Is that comparing the amp pushing 1 or 2 speakers?
fitz1465 on 01/16/2004 00:30:24
hello friends, here i come to save the day.......!
ram1, we are going to make you an audio conniseur yet.
not getting techie...RMS power from an amp just means how many watts the amp is pushing constantly to the speaker or speakers connected at the impedence load of either 4 ohms or 2ohms, etc. this load the amp recieves is accomplished by the user who sets up the system by wiring the subs in either "parallel" or "series" or both. the ohm load is a resistance load that the amplifier recieves by connecting to a speaker's voice coil. you have probably heard most subs advertised as dual 2 ohm voice coils or single 4 ohm voice coil, etc. these are just a couple of examples of what you see for the specs on a sub. inside every sub lies a 1,2,even 4 voice coils sometimes now. not to get too detailed about voice coil formers and stuff, you just use these numbers to create the correct impedence load to the amplifier to get that RMS power at the 2 ohm load or the 4 ohm load. also always try to get subs with aluminum voice coil formers not Kapton formers.. the Kapton formers run much hotter and heat does not equal good in audio. we want to keep things cool....man...wow dude..yeahhh.
this would be best explained with a diagram or it's really confusing...but no, 2 ohm or 4 ohm does not mean running 1 or 2 speakers. it means the impedence load that the amplifier is recieving from how you wired the voice coils which are wired either "parallel" or "series" or a little of both......thisprobablysoundslikeblahblah
go to this page and click on different examples to see how you could wire a variety of subwoofers.....in fact read all you can here..it is a good place to get basic mobile audio education for the beginner.
http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S-VfMigjaHPsz/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html
this should help on understanding what you will get when connecting the sub or subs to the amp..
ram1 on 01/16/2004 03:08:31
Thamks Fitz, I checked that out and actually you made it make sense to me before I looked, but I appreciate you guys help a lot and I'm digging and studying and maybe someday I can help somebody like you guys all help me.
Replies (24)
erikcooper on 01/13/2004 09:48:53
Which Kicker ten do you have? The Comp or Comp VR? To get a lot of bass out of 10s will take some good 10s really. I don't think that the Comp line would do it. You should probably go with the Solo-Baric L5 or L7. L7 would be best bet from kicker in a 10 but L5 would be much better than the Comp or Comp VR.
ttocs on 01/13/2004 11:09:06
if you are planning on replacing the headunit, you will save yourself alot of time if you tap the signal behind the deck, use a loc, and run rca's to the amps. This way when you do replace the deck all you have to do is plug the rca's in, rather then re-run anything.....
ram1 on 01/13/2004 23:48:46
eric, I have the comp VR. I had a feeling I might not be going to get bass that will get the neighbors attention. Maybe I should get something different. ttocs, just after posting I was reading somewhere in here about converting to the RCA, thanks guys for the advice. Do you guys think I should go with 1 or 2 10" L5 or L7s? I kinda have to squeeze them behind the back seat and I guess I almost have to go with a sealed box right? Thanks
fitz1465 on 01/13/2004 23:00:52
absolutely, i agree with ttocs on the LOC (line output converter). stinger makes a nice LOC that has an attenuator so you can control the strength of the signal going through the LOC.
ram1, i always run a LOC when interfacing with a factory unit to easily add an aftermarket head unit later and it cuts down on the noise interference the amp gets from running high level inputs. in my experience, NEVER run high level inputs unless abolutely necessary just because of in line noise.
please assure yourself in the future for car audio that you will not by a cheap california amp for a kicker sytem. you already have the kicker 800.4 amp, you should have got another kicker amp for the sub...kicker amps are amazing from my experiences with many amps, plus there is a reason that many of your car audio enthusiasts at audio shows run kicker amps and subs...they SOUND the best for the money in my opinion.
let's start from begining friend.
to hook up the LOC, you will need to connect the speaker +/- wires to the LOC before running the interconnects to the amps. you will probably need 2 LOC's to run enough interconnects if the cali amp does not have a low level output. to find which speakers are positive and negative for a speaker, trim the cover off the two wires going to the speaker and connect a 1.5v AA battery to the two wires. if the positive wire for the speaker is touching the positive end of the little battery in your hand, then the cone of the speaker should move visibly outward. if it does not, then switch the wires to make the cone "pop" out. then you will know how to match the +/- connection on the LOC.
as far as power wires, i never daisy chain battery + wires to amps. it is trashy looking and can leave an amp very unpowered. i have done this to low powered systems when people had no $ and it does work, but i DON'T recommend it.
with those two amps running at the power you will draw, i recommend 0/1 ga from the battery to a distribution block and split to two 4ga to the amps from the blocks.
the 800.4 is a monstrous amp to run the mids and highs off of. 100 w rms per channel on four speakers you will find is loud as hell in a truck. even 50w rms on some components and the 6x9's would have been more than enough in your truck especially with only one 10 stuffed behind the seat. you will probably find that you will have to turn the 800.4 amp down to match the bass output of a music program otherwise you will be hearing a lot of high outdoing the low. make sure the 800.4 amp is has at least a 4 ga wire running to it. kicker recommends 2ga but that is for running the amp at full power in say all channels at 2 ohms. your class D amp will draw little power because of it's efficiency.
it is ok to daisy chain 12v turn on wires to amps though for you are just trying to get the amp to turn on. i always run two or three amps like this and it works fine.
as far as bass goes my friend. you are going to have a heck of a time getting that 10 in a sealed box to pound the way you probably are hoping. sealed boxes are for SQ (sound quality) not SPL (sound pressure levels). if you are looking for boom in a truck with subs stashed behind the seats, here is my system for you.
your 800.4 amp running the four mids and highs. get another Comp VR sub so you have two of them and get a good 300W a piece to those subs behind your seats. i don't know what your cali amp pushes, but i would sell it and look for a KX600.1 to power the two Comp VR subs. this is your ideal system for that super duty of yours. good luck and write back if any questions.
a long question deserves a long answer, right???
ram1 on 01/14/2004 00:07:16
fitz, thanks so much for everything. You clarified alot of things that were kind of confusing to me. That Cali amp, I'm taking your advice and my brother in law already wanted it, so thats an easy deal, and I/m going to just get another 10 and go with another Kicker amp. Thanks ,you guys help us not so experienced people in here to avoid making mistakes before we do then, wonder whats wrong.. Really do appreciate all the advice. Only thing I,m still wondering is about my choice of the sealed boxes for the subs. I bought the sub from Kicker already set-up that way. I didnt think a different type of box would work behind the seat, or will the 2 subs hit pretty hard in the sealed boxes? Thanks again
erikcooper on 01/14/2004 00:23:44
ram1, before you buy another Comp Vr let me ask you something. Exactly what kind of bass are you looking for? Do you want something that can get loud on certain notes and will rumble you a decent ammount on those notes or do you want something that, if you wanted it to, would be to much? I prefer the latter because I like that kind of bass and I can always turn it down to be sure I get a good match if I am wanting some good quality sounding music. Let me know which one you want and I will let you know which speakers to get. I may also have a good recomendation, especially confirmed on this forum, to fit it just right. I can also probably fit you on the enclosure.
ram1 on 01/14/2004 00:34:56
I guess its kinda the type of bass that you could feel in your chest kinda bass. Low rumble type. I listen to all kinds of music but mainly a lot of rap nelly, ying yang stuff. Know what I mean eric?
erikcooper on 01/14/2004 00:38:09
I know exactly what you mean, that is what I use my bass for SMILE So what money range are you looking in for these subs and sub amp combined? Or does it matter? I am not gonna put you very high regardless, especially in your limited room, but I could probably suggest you a good combination. I will find the prices while I await your reply.
ram1 on 01/14/2004 00:44:51
I guess somewhere around $400 cause I can seel the Cali amp
erikcooper on 01/14/2004 00:48:28
Ok, you can get the two L7 10"s for $290 on ebay. For an amp (this is just price quotes for you, I know it is to much) a Kicker SX1250.1 would push them for $620, a Kicker KX1200.1 would for $365, or, my recomendation, a JBL BP1200.1 would push them, maybe better, for $220.
This would be a little over $400 though so if you would like to go with the L5s and lose maybe 150w per sub then let me know. I will look up prices on the L5s and a good amp match.
Also, if you do not have to have Kicker I may can find you some subs from Audiobahn that will pull the same watts for quite a bit less cash.
I am going to hit the bed but I will check and reply by at least 9 a.m. central time tomorrow.
erikcooper on 01/14/2004 00:53:09
Oh, yah. I meant to add, you could probably fit a ported box back there since you are going with 10"s and nothing bigger. Once we decide with subs you want I will be able to tell you if you can.
ram1 on 01/14/2004 00:52:12
OK, that would be a big improvement over what I was going to do. If I can talk my brother in law into the TVCR too, I could probably beg enough to go with the L7s, would they have boxes to fit behind the seat of the truck. It is a crew cab and pretty big back there? Would I use a different type box other than sealed?
ram1 on 01/14/2004 00:56:21
OK thanks eric, I'll see what I can do tomorrow and we can go from there Thanks
Munchiesyumm on 01/14/2004 02:27:43
Kicker Solo-Baric S8L7-2 $125.00 each
450 watts RMS
+
JBL BP600.1 $189
Output 2 Ohms: 600W x 1
Signal-to-Noise (dBA): >100
Frequency Response (±3dB): 20Hz - 500Hz
Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.1%
both can be found on www.ikesound.com and of course ebay.
JBL amplifers are one of the very few high quality amplifers around. They are underrated power rise and reach their RMS rating at 12.9V which many amplifers need 14.4V to reach their max power outs which many cars cannot support. They are cost effective and very high quality.
erikcooper on 01/14/2004 09:51:15
If you want to go ahead and go with the L7 10s then it would match up perfectly with the JBL BP1200.1 in watts. Being 10"s and you say it has quite a bit of room I would venture to say that you could probably make a ported box for them without much hassle. I will look up the enclosure size that Kicker recommends and see how it works. The reason I am saying ported instead of sealed is because, although it takes mroe room, it will give you more SPL.
Did you decide you want to stay with the Kicker subs or do you want some quotes on the Audiobahns?
Here are some Audiobahns you can ponder.
AW1000Q - 600w RMS $89.99 each
Would match the JBL amp well.
ALUM10Q - 800w RMS $219.99 for 2
Would be a little underpowered with the JBL amp but wound sound much better than the AW1000Q as these are made for sound quality, but have the watts to hit hard. If I can find this one as a buy one option you could even use one of these with the JBL BP600.1 and it would sound good and hit hard. I will see what I can find.
1 ALUM10Q would be around $120 and would probably work pretty good with the JBL BP600.1
JBL BP600.1 is between $170 and $180
Note: These are all ebay prices, but for new items, not used.
fitz1465 on 01/14/2004 17:29:53
oh god an audiobahn fan........help us, but i like the JBL amps a lot especially the new crown series they have....wow these amps kick butt. you should see the BIG one.
it is from my experience and knowledge that audiobahn is a fad for high schoolers that have little money to purchase quality equipment or people who want cheap stuff to pump a lot of watts to. i never recommend audiobahn to anyone because i think their subs sound dirty but if you want just pounding bass put a couple in a ported box and fire away. i also think the surrounds on the subs are absolute crud, just not an audiobahn fan fellas.
sorry ram1 for not clarifying about the boxes.......you may have room for a ported box in the back if you want loads of low bass that sounds kinds of like one sound to me, but those ported enclosures definitely give off some low tones. if you cannot fit a ported box that is why i recommended the 2 compVR's in sealed boxes behind the seats because i thought your truck was a standard cab. eric sounds like he's willing to help with the dimensions of that box and the Kicker L7's, so that's cool. these subs pound and sound great, they just cost a little more than the compVR's. sealed boxes have a smoother rolloff and punch hard and handle a lot of power and are the most accurate enclosure for musical reproduction. it's just whatever you like. just please stay away from that audiobahn stuff for quality products' sake and great job for getting rid of that cali amp to your bro.
ebay is almost always the cheapest place to find stuff. go with what you want but there is a difference in selling products with time and effort put into technology and quality parts....aka....JL AUDIO,JBL, MTX, KICKER, FOCAL, PIONEER, MCINTOSH, etc and then there are companies that need hot chicks to sell cheap stuff like..........Audiobahn, Bazooka, MA Audio, etc.
Munchiesyumm on 01/14/2004 19:51:52
ram1 what do you currently have and what do you plan on getting?
I believe you said you already have a sub? If you already bought one it doesn't make sense to sell it and buy different one. The Comp VR subs will do just fine. Please remember these subs will be in a small area, one 10 in a F-250 would do just fine, throwing two 10s going to be a lot no matter what kickers you get.
It seems mostly clear to me you are on a tight budget so don't spend more than you have to. Let's try to work with what you have.
Could you please refresh what you have currently with MODEL numbers please? Let's get it stright what you're really looking into doing.
cplkittle on 01/14/2004 20:53:02
lol fitz. I buy anything if a pretty girl is pushing it.
seriously, not to be too biased, I did replace everything with audiobahn in my car (speakers only) I had polk 6.5's in the front, and blaus 6.5 in the rear, and an old pair of JBL loud and clear 12's in the back.
The 12's I like, and are still there, the 3 1/2's bahns I put up front are somewhere in the back yard now, and the 6x8 bahns made a good Christmas present for the $10 gift limit at work. Bahn subs are, in my opinion are decent, the comps suck.
erikcooper on 01/14/2004 23:50:57
Yea, I don't support Bahn components. The subs are just a lot more wattage for the dollar. If it was just a little bit higher watts it would be different, but it is a lot more. I like power and I like to have big bass when I want it. If I don't want it I can just turn it down. And if you have good components then the subs bass will sound good as long as it is hitting and isn't over/under powered.
ram1 on 01/15/2004 04:06:57
Sorry guys, couldn't get in here till late tonight, but interesting stuff here. Thanks Eric for checking on everything too. I do have the 1 Kicker TCVR 10 in a sealed box, designed for behind the seat and like we were saying , I have that California series 600MSX { RMS Power @ 4 ohm= 1x300W } RMS power @ 2 ohm= 1x410w } and I'm a little confused on that too, could someone give me a quick explaination of that? Anyway, I am on a kinda tight budget, but I can sell the sub and amp if you guys think I should use 2 different subs and a different amp. The F-250 is a crew cab, so it does have a lot of room behind the rear seat, I have to measure back there and let you guys know what exactly it is dimension wise. Like I was telling Eric, I hoped to get really big bass, rumbly kind of feel it in the chest type ya know? I'll measure it back there and let you know what kind of room there is exactly. I'd been here sooner, but had to go away tonight uncle died.. Talk later
cplkittle on 01/15/2004 16:08:26
what are you confused about as far as the RMS on the california series amp?
ram1 on 01/15/2004 23:34:33
I'm not fully understanding what it means by RMS power @ 4 OHM or 2 OHM. Is that comparing the amp pushing 1 or 2 speakers?
fitz1465 on 01/16/2004 00:30:24
hello friends, here i come to save the day.......!
ram1, we are going to make you an audio conniseur yet.
not getting techie...RMS power from an amp just means how many watts the amp is pushing constantly to the speaker or speakers connected at the impedence load of either 4 ohms or 2ohms, etc. this load the amp recieves is accomplished by the user who sets up the system by wiring the subs in either "parallel" or "series" or both. the ohm load is a resistance load that the amplifier recieves by connecting to a speaker's voice coil. you have probably heard most subs advertised as dual 2 ohm voice coils or single 4 ohm voice coil, etc. these are just a couple of examples of what you see for the specs on a sub. inside every sub lies a 1,2,even 4 voice coils sometimes now. not to get too detailed about voice coil formers and stuff, you just use these numbers to create the correct impedence load to the amplifier to get that RMS power at the 2 ohm load or the 4 ohm load. also always try to get subs with aluminum voice coil formers not Kapton formers.. the Kapton formers run much hotter and heat does not equal good in audio. we want to keep things cool....man...wow dude..yeahhh.
this would be best explained with a diagram or it's really confusing...but no, 2 ohm or 4 ohm does not mean running 1 or 2 speakers. it means the impedence load that the amplifier is recieving from how you wired the voice coils which are wired either "parallel" or "series" or a little of both......thisprobablysoundslikeblahblah
go to this page and click on different examples to see how you could wire a variety of subwoofers.....in fact read all you can here..it is a good place to get basic mobile audio education for the beginner.
http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S-VfMigjaHPsz/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html
this should help on understanding what you will get when connecting the sub or subs to the amp..
ram1 on 01/16/2004 03:08:31
Thamks Fitz, I checked that out and actually you made it make sense to me before I looked, but I appreciate you guys help a lot and I'm digging and studying and maybe someday I can help somebody like you guys all help me.
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
