Well I have almost got everything for the truck.
In the front I have gone with 6.5" Directed Audio Component Speakers (s650) and in the back I have 6"x8" Directed Audio Coaxial (682dc).
I got a Viper amp. Class D, 350 watt (d300.1)
I picked up 2 cheap 10" JLs ( 10W - 4), but I thought they sounded fairly good and loud.
I want to get a box from SuperCrewSound.
Before the box, I got all the speakers, amp, and subs for $1300 Canadian before some taxes. The box would cost about $200 or 250 USD which would be $260 - $300 Canadian.
I hope that is all the box costs.
One question - Can I power all my 4 speakers using the factory deck and a line driver or something like that?
Suggestions or comments would be appreciated!!!
Replies (40)
ttocs on 12/28/2003 10:49:56
are you keeping the factory radio?
A line driver takes a low voltage rca style signal and boosts its voltage prior to going to the amp. It will not help in this case.
swez on 12/28/2003 11:44:33
A nice setup emerging here bud... but if you intend to stick with the stock Ford HU for now, it will work OK... just may be a tad bit bass heavy w/ that 300 watt sub amp.
If you want to get the most from your new speakers, a bit more power will really bring them to life. Figure 50-75 watts RMS per channel will do it and you can still keep the Factory HU. Just need to add an Line out convertor system to feed subs and add a new full range amp as you can afford same.
Swez
DP on 12/28/2003 14:00:29
Thanx
ya we were trying to keep the factory head unit since it is like a premium sound setup
I guess I didn't fully understand the line driver
Another question - If I have a factory 6 CD changer, is it possible to hook that up to an afermarket deck?
One person said they could, but several other said you can't.
ttocs on 12/28/2003 15:23:56
just because it says "premium" on it is not a reason to keep it. You will get a better sound by replacing it.
You can hook some factory cd chngrs to some decks as they are often made by the same people. But more then likely they will not match up.
DP on 12/28/2003 21:43:13
Well the head unit is premium. Not that the speakers are the greatest sounding or stuff like that, but the deck has alot of special features on it that aftermarket decks don't have unless you want to spend alot of money.
Doesn't Ford have some JBL in them, but JBL doesn't decks. - is this what you are talking about ttocs??
So the only way to see if it will work is to compare the hooks ups of the CD changer to a variety of decks??
curtis73 on 12/29/2003 01:52:28
Ford's "premium" sound system is 18wrms instead of 12 and upgraded cone material and magnets. The first thing I did was take it all out and use it for target practice. The round cones make nice targets and its neat to see the magnet fragments re-orient themselves in little radiant lines. It was particularly nice to hit the HU with a .45 ACP soft point. I've never seen anything explode quite like it.
They aren't that bad :). I did use mine for target practice, but pretty much anything that the aftermarket makes will be better than what Ford offerred; premium or not.
curtis73 on 12/29/2003 01:58:12
Oh, and another thing. The chances that your CD changer will hook up are slim to nill, and slim just left. Even if they do physically hook up, sometimes its because two different companies used the same harness manufacturer. Or if they do hook up its like buying a new Sony VCR and using your old Sony TV remote to operate it. Some of the functions might work, but others have changed their format.
I might suggest keeping the factory HU and CD changer so you have those options, but only using it for a signal. Drop it down to line level with those converters and run aftermarket amps and speakers. You won't regret it.
DP on 12/30/2003 01:37:06
Thanx for the input
I think I will try powering the speakers with the factory head unit for now, but I will probably get something more to power them before summer or if I need something done right away because I'm not happy with it
What would you guys have paid for my Viper Amp 350w (d300.1)?
swez on 12/30/2003 08:32:12
Actually, Ford uses 2 basic HU designs. One is made by Ford. The other is made for Ford by Alpine. Knowing which one you have will help and it is usually visable on the HU when removed with the proper "U" clips.
Once you have identified which one you have, adding a CD player can be done with ease. If you HU has a "CD" button on the face, you probably have the Ford OEM HU. I did install an aftermarket HU that dropped right in... wiring harnesses and all were included in the kit.
This is the unit I used:
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-QcyQVPP9ZRU/prodview.asp?s=0&I=581F1001I%20&cc=01
This one matches your vehicle. Can get it a tad bit cheaper if you do a google search... but I did find Crutch to be worth the few extra dollars and they do ship to Canada.
Swez
PS You have to get the HU removal clips to remove the HU for harness installation. I did have a little trouble getting these bulky harness connectors to fit into the dash pocket well... but other than that, was a breeze. I used this unit on a 2000 Lincoln and it works great!
erikcooper on 12/30/2003 09:58:41
Swez, that link was to a CD changer that matches up with the Ford factory HU. I think he is wanting an aftermarket HU that matches up with the Ford factory CD changer.
DP on 12/30/2003 14:18:17
Ya erik is right.
The local car audio store should have these U clips right?
ttocs on 12/30/2003 16:31:21
that or any auto parts store. $4..
DP on 12/31/2003 16:36:49
OK
My amp at 4 ohms does 200w powering 2 JL subs w/ RMSs' of 125, how would this all change if I have to run the subs in series and not wire them separate.
that 200w would be going to each sub right
its not divided and that is sent to each sub.
I'm not sure if I would have to run the subs series, but its not that hard to cut a small hole in the box. I would like to run the full 200w into the subs ( the danger zone is about at 250w I think)
What is the proper term for the place on the box w/ the little hole where the wires from the amp go, anyways???
Thanx
compvr15s on 12/31/2003 17:11:37
what are subs do you have, dual 2ohm or dual 4 ohm? that amp should be 2 ohm stable if its a class D mono amp.
compvr15s on 12/31/2003 17:11:37
what are subs do you have, dual 2ohm or dual 4 ohm? that amp should be 2 ohm stable if its a class D mono amp. tha proper term is a speaker terminal, where the wires run from the amp to subs.
swez on 12/31/2003 18:01:59
Those JL's... arn't they 4 ohm SVC's? They come in 4 or 8 ohm SVC's, but I think the - 4 means they are 4 ohm units. (checking on that now.... yep, these are 4 ohm)
The "terminal cup" is where the inner sub wiring is joined to the amp. Chances are pretty good that these subs are wired in parallel already if there is only 1 terminal cup. If you had 2 cups, that would give you an option to externally wire them 2 or 8 ohms to any amp. A sure way to check this is with a good ohmeter. It will read slightly under 2.0 ohms DC resistance if in parallel now. OR... if the subs are in series, that number will be closer to 7 ohms.
If you don't have an ohmeter, then pulling one sub to inspect the wiring is an option. Do you know how to identify subs wired in series or parallel?
Swez
DP on 01/1/2004 19:46:38
What do you mean exactly "identify"? I realized that I made a mistake with my terms in the last post if thats what your talking about.
Dave from SuperCrew Sound says the box for the two subs comes w/ one terminal cup, but if there is a second terminal cup, the box should be divided. He says we can ask for a second terminal.
My amp is also 2 ohm stable w/ 300w RMS.
So how then should I wire the subs and the amp to get the best performance?
cplkittle on 01/1/2004 22:29:48
what he is asking is do you know how each speaker is wired (DVCs)
How is each sub wired, and how are they wired together?
DP on 01/2/2004 01:52:14
All I can tell you is the subs are SVC available in 4 ohm.
The amp is available in 2 or 4 ohm.
DP on 01/2/2004 02:19:33
If a 2channel amp is stable at 2ohms, it means it is bridgable, right.?
So to biridge an amp I should run a wire from the outside positive to the outside negative and run the two 4 ohm subs in parallel, creating a 2 ohm load on my amp, with the positive and negative on the inside.
Tell me if I got it please.
ttocs on 01/4/2004 16:09:59
not necessarily. Many amps will advertise 2 ohm stable and they meant 2 ohms stereo...
DP on 01/5/2004 12:15:52
But am I right on the 2nd part.
uochronos on 01/5/2004 12:20:43
If by second part you mean how to get a 2 ohm load then yes your right just run the two 4ohm subs in parrelel. but definatly listen to ttocs... most 2 channel amps that i have looked at say 2 ohm stable but they are only stable to 4 ohms when bridged...
DP on 01/5/2004 12:32:48
thanx guys
in my amp manual is says "High-current N-channel MOSFET outputs stable into 2 ohm loads." so this is fine right ! ! ?
what exactly is MOSFET and what does it stand for.
It has to w/ power supply and stuff right.
uochronos on 01/5/2004 13:12:36
well i dont know if its stable or not by what you told me...
my amp which is a 2 channel clearly lists
stereo 4 ohm stable 125watts
stereo 2 ohm stable 250watts
bridged 4 ohm stable 500watts
i would hope somewhere yours lists a easy chart like that.... what amp is this anyway if i knew what amp it was i could probaly tell you definatly.... but the only amp i see listed in posts about is a mono amp... my bad if i just missed it
DP on 01/5/2004 14:32:40
My amp is a Viper d300.1 - Class D
The manual also says RMS continuos power driven into 2 ohms... 300 watts.
uochronos on 01/5/2004 17:38:03
well yes that amp is 2 ohm stable.... from the post above i was awnsering about the 2 channel amp... i'm not sure if i'm confused or what hehe.. this post is the one that confused me
"If a 2channel amp is stable at 2ohms, it means it is bridgable, right.?
So to biridge an amp I should run a wire from the outside positive to the outside negative and run the two 4 ohm subs in parallel, creating a 2 ohm load on my amp, with the positive and negative on the inside.
Tell me if I got it please. "
DP on 01/5/2004 18:18:17
OK
But to bridge the amp I should run a wire from the outside positive to the outside negative. Right.
uochronos on 01/5/2004 18:26:26
yes to my knowledge that is how you would do it. alot of amps well even say above the right terminals... i have heard that some amps use the inner 2 to bridge them but i have never actualy seen this. the manual for the amp should say assumeing the amp is bridgable
DP on 01/6/2004 00:58:57
Ya, nowhere in my manual does it say anything about bridging, but thats gotta be the way to do it with this amp.
I am getting my speakers installed and my amp ready for the subs on Wed., and when my box arrives I want to install the subs myself.
I will check everything over w/ the guys at the shop, but I wanted to have a little more knowledge going in!!
Thanx
ttocs on 01/6/2004 10:07:11
That is a mono amp, if there are two speaker terminals then they are probably bridged in parallel already.
Mosfet= metal oxide silver field effect transistor. It is just the acronym for the type of transistor used. Mosfets are gennerally the most used.
DP on 01/6/2004 23:54:55
Thanx ttocs
This may be a stupid question but,
If I run my two subs in parallel ( only one terminal cup on box), and my amp sends 300w RMS at 2 ohm,--
How many watts will each sub get??
swez on 01/7/2004 00:39:07
150 watts per sub.
If this is a Class D MONO amp, there is only 1 channel to begin with. That's what MONO means... 1 channel. Yes, there may be 2 terminal sets to wire up speakers, but they are in parallel inside the amp.
You should be fine at 2 ohms with thia amp if it is Class D MONO.
Swez
erikcooper on 01/7/2004 02:07:30
So if it is already run in parallel inside the amp then will it hurt anything to run the speakers in parallel as well? He said there is only one terminal cup on box so that means the subs are prewired in parallel, does he need to change this?
DP on 01/7/2004 13:04:21
So swez,
if I had 2 terminal cups on my box and I used those 2 terminal sets "to wire up speakers", would the power out of both of those terminals be divided by 2 since it is mono.
And is there any problem w/ what cooper is talking about??
erikcooper on 01/7/2004 14:11:45
If there is only one terminal cup then that would have to mean the speakers are pre-wired in parallel. If you have two terminal cups you ought to be able to run them positive/negative on amp to positive/negative on speakers. One on each "channel." I think that would work.
DP on 01/8/2004 00:56:13
OK
Well I got my speakers hooked up yesterday (WED) and its sounds awesome. Just running it off of factory deck. I can't imagine what it would sound like with more power. I feel good about my decision w/ DEI, because many ppl. have said that it is a high quality product.
QUESTION
Do you think it is worth the bother to move the separate tweeters of the component speakers from inside the door to the kick panel area to shoot up across to the top of the seat belt? Would this give better imaging and would it sound better? Or would it not sound much better and not bother moving them?
I may not have the loudest system in my area, but I may have the best SQ in my area, which makes me feel pretty good.
Can't wait to get my subs hooked up!!!
Thanx guys for all your help!!
erikcooper on 01/8/2004 10:11:06
I personally like the looks of components in the kickpanels and tweeters in the bottom or top corners of the windshield. Top gets better acoustics.
DP on 01/8/2004 18:24:36
i was thinking of putting the tweeters shooting up from the kick panels to the other side of the truck, but I might look at what you have there.
The top of the truck does sound alot better, and it kinda seems the words are coming from the top already.
uochronos on 01/8/2004 18:58:13
i personaly have the tweets in the corners of the winshield and have them pointing across the truck... as in the passenger side tweeter is pointed at the driver and vise versa. It sounds really great way better then when it was in the doors and a little better then when i had them pointing at the clossest person.
In the front I have gone with 6.5" Directed Audio Component Speakers (s650) and in the back I have 6"x8" Directed Audio Coaxial (682dc).
I got a Viper amp. Class D, 350 watt (d300.1)
I picked up 2 cheap 10" JLs ( 10W - 4), but I thought they sounded fairly good and loud.
I want to get a box from SuperCrewSound.
Before the box, I got all the speakers, amp, and subs for $1300 Canadian before some taxes. The box would cost about $200 or 250 USD which would be $260 - $300 Canadian.
I hope that is all the box costs.
One question - Can I power all my 4 speakers using the factory deck and a line driver or something like that?
Suggestions or comments would be appreciated!!!
Replies (40)
ttocs on 12/28/2003 10:49:56
are you keeping the factory radio?
A line driver takes a low voltage rca style signal and boosts its voltage prior to going to the amp. It will not help in this case.
swez on 12/28/2003 11:44:33
A nice setup emerging here bud... but if you intend to stick with the stock Ford HU for now, it will work OK... just may be a tad bit bass heavy w/ that 300 watt sub amp.
If you want to get the most from your new speakers, a bit more power will really bring them to life. Figure 50-75 watts RMS per channel will do it and you can still keep the Factory HU. Just need to add an Line out convertor system to feed subs and add a new full range amp as you can afford same.
Swez
DP on 12/28/2003 14:00:29
Thanx
ya we were trying to keep the factory head unit since it is like a premium sound setup
I guess I didn't fully understand the line driver
Another question - If I have a factory 6 CD changer, is it possible to hook that up to an afermarket deck?
One person said they could, but several other said you can't.
ttocs on 12/28/2003 15:23:56
just because it says "premium" on it is not a reason to keep it. You will get a better sound by replacing it.
You can hook some factory cd chngrs to some decks as they are often made by the same people. But more then likely they will not match up.
DP on 12/28/2003 21:43:13
Well the head unit is premium. Not that the speakers are the greatest sounding or stuff like that, but the deck has alot of special features on it that aftermarket decks don't have unless you want to spend alot of money.
Doesn't Ford have some JBL in them, but JBL doesn't decks. - is this what you are talking about ttocs??
So the only way to see if it will work is to compare the hooks ups of the CD changer to a variety of decks??
curtis73 on 12/29/2003 01:52:28
Ford's "premium" sound system is 18wrms instead of 12 and upgraded cone material and magnets. The first thing I did was take it all out and use it for target practice. The round cones make nice targets and its neat to see the magnet fragments re-orient themselves in little radiant lines. It was particularly nice to hit the HU with a .45 ACP soft point. I've never seen anything explode quite like it.
They aren't that bad :). I did use mine for target practice, but pretty much anything that the aftermarket makes will be better than what Ford offerred; premium or not.
curtis73 on 12/29/2003 01:58:12
Oh, and another thing. The chances that your CD changer will hook up are slim to nill, and slim just left. Even if they do physically hook up, sometimes its because two different companies used the same harness manufacturer. Or if they do hook up its like buying a new Sony VCR and using your old Sony TV remote to operate it. Some of the functions might work, but others have changed their format.
I might suggest keeping the factory HU and CD changer so you have those options, but only using it for a signal. Drop it down to line level with those converters and run aftermarket amps and speakers. You won't regret it.
DP on 12/30/2003 01:37:06
Thanx for the input
I think I will try powering the speakers with the factory head unit for now, but I will probably get something more to power them before summer or if I need something done right away because I'm not happy with it
What would you guys have paid for my Viper Amp 350w (d300.1)?
swez on 12/30/2003 08:32:12
Actually, Ford uses 2 basic HU designs. One is made by Ford. The other is made for Ford by Alpine. Knowing which one you have will help and it is usually visable on the HU when removed with the proper "U" clips.
Once you have identified which one you have, adding a CD player can be done with ease. If you HU has a "CD" button on the face, you probably have the Ford OEM HU. I did install an aftermarket HU that dropped right in... wiring harnesses and all were included in the kit.
This is the unit I used:
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-QcyQVPP9ZRU/prodview.asp?s=0&I=581F1001I%20&cc=01
This one matches your vehicle. Can get it a tad bit cheaper if you do a google search... but I did find Crutch to be worth the few extra dollars and they do ship to Canada.
Swez
PS You have to get the HU removal clips to remove the HU for harness installation. I did have a little trouble getting these bulky harness connectors to fit into the dash pocket well... but other than that, was a breeze. I used this unit on a 2000 Lincoln and it works great!
erikcooper on 12/30/2003 09:58:41
Swez, that link was to a CD changer that matches up with the Ford factory HU. I think he is wanting an aftermarket HU that matches up with the Ford factory CD changer.
DP on 12/30/2003 14:18:17
Ya erik is right.
The local car audio store should have these U clips right?
ttocs on 12/30/2003 16:31:21
that or any auto parts store. $4..
DP on 12/31/2003 16:36:49
OK
My amp at 4 ohms does 200w powering 2 JL subs w/ RMSs' of 125, how would this all change if I have to run the subs in series and not wire them separate.
that 200w would be going to each sub right
its not divided and that is sent to each sub.
I'm not sure if I would have to run the subs series, but its not that hard to cut a small hole in the box. I would like to run the full 200w into the subs ( the danger zone is about at 250w I think)
What is the proper term for the place on the box w/ the little hole where the wires from the amp go, anyways???
Thanx
compvr15s on 12/31/2003 17:11:37
what are subs do you have, dual 2ohm or dual 4 ohm? that amp should be 2 ohm stable if its a class D mono amp.
compvr15s on 12/31/2003 17:11:37
what are subs do you have, dual 2ohm or dual 4 ohm? that amp should be 2 ohm stable if its a class D mono amp. tha proper term is a speaker terminal, where the wires run from the amp to subs.
swez on 12/31/2003 18:01:59
Those JL's... arn't they 4 ohm SVC's? They come in 4 or 8 ohm SVC's, but I think the - 4 means they are 4 ohm units. (checking on that now.... yep, these are 4 ohm)
The "terminal cup" is where the inner sub wiring is joined to the amp. Chances are pretty good that these subs are wired in parallel already if there is only 1 terminal cup. If you had 2 cups, that would give you an option to externally wire them 2 or 8 ohms to any amp. A sure way to check this is with a good ohmeter. It will read slightly under 2.0 ohms DC resistance if in parallel now. OR... if the subs are in series, that number will be closer to 7 ohms.
If you don't have an ohmeter, then pulling one sub to inspect the wiring is an option. Do you know how to identify subs wired in series or parallel?
Swez
DP on 01/1/2004 19:46:38
What do you mean exactly "identify"? I realized that I made a mistake with my terms in the last post if thats what your talking about.
Dave from SuperCrew Sound says the box for the two subs comes w/ one terminal cup, but if there is a second terminal cup, the box should be divided. He says we can ask for a second terminal.
My amp is also 2 ohm stable w/ 300w RMS.
So how then should I wire the subs and the amp to get the best performance?
cplkittle on 01/1/2004 22:29:48
what he is asking is do you know how each speaker is wired (DVCs)
How is each sub wired, and how are they wired together?
DP on 01/2/2004 01:52:14
All I can tell you is the subs are SVC available in 4 ohm.
The amp is available in 2 or 4 ohm.
DP on 01/2/2004 02:19:33
If a 2channel amp is stable at 2ohms, it means it is bridgable, right.?
So to biridge an amp I should run a wire from the outside positive to the outside negative and run the two 4 ohm subs in parallel, creating a 2 ohm load on my amp, with the positive and negative on the inside.
Tell me if I got it please.
ttocs on 01/4/2004 16:09:59
not necessarily. Many amps will advertise 2 ohm stable and they meant 2 ohms stereo...
DP on 01/5/2004 12:15:52
But am I right on the 2nd part.
uochronos on 01/5/2004 12:20:43
If by second part you mean how to get a 2 ohm load then yes your right just run the two 4ohm subs in parrelel. but definatly listen to ttocs... most 2 channel amps that i have looked at say 2 ohm stable but they are only stable to 4 ohms when bridged...
DP on 01/5/2004 12:32:48
thanx guys
in my amp manual is says "High-current N-channel MOSFET outputs stable into 2 ohm loads." so this is fine right ! ! ?
what exactly is MOSFET and what does it stand for.
It has to w/ power supply and stuff right.
uochronos on 01/5/2004 13:12:36
well i dont know if its stable or not by what you told me...
my amp which is a 2 channel clearly lists
stereo 4 ohm stable 125watts
stereo 2 ohm stable 250watts
bridged 4 ohm stable 500watts
i would hope somewhere yours lists a easy chart like that.... what amp is this anyway if i knew what amp it was i could probaly tell you definatly.... but the only amp i see listed in posts about is a mono amp... my bad if i just missed it
DP on 01/5/2004 14:32:40
My amp is a Viper d300.1 - Class D
The manual also says RMS continuos power driven into 2 ohms... 300 watts.
uochronos on 01/5/2004 17:38:03
well yes that amp is 2 ohm stable.... from the post above i was awnsering about the 2 channel amp... i'm not sure if i'm confused or what hehe.. this post is the one that confused me
"If a 2channel amp is stable at 2ohms, it means it is bridgable, right.?
So to biridge an amp I should run a wire from the outside positive to the outside negative and run the two 4 ohm subs in parallel, creating a 2 ohm load on my amp, with the positive and negative on the inside.
Tell me if I got it please. "
DP on 01/5/2004 18:18:17
OK
But to bridge the amp I should run a wire from the outside positive to the outside negative. Right.
uochronos on 01/5/2004 18:26:26
yes to my knowledge that is how you would do it. alot of amps well even say above the right terminals... i have heard that some amps use the inner 2 to bridge them but i have never actualy seen this. the manual for the amp should say assumeing the amp is bridgable
DP on 01/6/2004 00:58:57
Ya, nowhere in my manual does it say anything about bridging, but thats gotta be the way to do it with this amp.
I am getting my speakers installed and my amp ready for the subs on Wed., and when my box arrives I want to install the subs myself.
I will check everything over w/ the guys at the shop, but I wanted to have a little more knowledge going in!!
Thanx
ttocs on 01/6/2004 10:07:11
That is a mono amp, if there are two speaker terminals then they are probably bridged in parallel already.
Mosfet= metal oxide silver field effect transistor. It is just the acronym for the type of transistor used. Mosfets are gennerally the most used.
DP on 01/6/2004 23:54:55
Thanx ttocs
This may be a stupid question but,
If I run my two subs in parallel ( only one terminal cup on box), and my amp sends 300w RMS at 2 ohm,--
How many watts will each sub get??
swez on 01/7/2004 00:39:07
150 watts per sub.
If this is a Class D MONO amp, there is only 1 channel to begin with. That's what MONO means... 1 channel. Yes, there may be 2 terminal sets to wire up speakers, but they are in parallel inside the amp.
You should be fine at 2 ohms with thia amp if it is Class D MONO.
Swez
erikcooper on 01/7/2004 02:07:30
So if it is already run in parallel inside the amp then will it hurt anything to run the speakers in parallel as well? He said there is only one terminal cup on box so that means the subs are prewired in parallel, does he need to change this?
DP on 01/7/2004 13:04:21
So swez,
if I had 2 terminal cups on my box and I used those 2 terminal sets "to wire up speakers", would the power out of both of those terminals be divided by 2 since it is mono.
And is there any problem w/ what cooper is talking about??
erikcooper on 01/7/2004 14:11:45
If there is only one terminal cup then that would have to mean the speakers are pre-wired in parallel. If you have two terminal cups you ought to be able to run them positive/negative on amp to positive/negative on speakers. One on each "channel." I think that would work.
DP on 01/8/2004 00:56:13
OK
Well I got my speakers hooked up yesterday (WED) and its sounds awesome. Just running it off of factory deck. I can't imagine what it would sound like with more power. I feel good about my decision w/ DEI, because many ppl. have said that it is a high quality product.
QUESTION
Do you think it is worth the bother to move the separate tweeters of the component speakers from inside the door to the kick panel area to shoot up across to the top of the seat belt? Would this give better imaging and would it sound better? Or would it not sound much better and not bother moving them?
I may not have the loudest system in my area, but I may have the best SQ in my area, which makes me feel pretty good.
Can't wait to get my subs hooked up!!!
Thanx guys for all your help!!
erikcooper on 01/8/2004 10:11:06
I personally like the looks of components in the kickpanels and tweeters in the bottom or top corners of the windshield. Top gets better acoustics.
DP on 01/8/2004 18:24:36
i was thinking of putting the tweeters shooting up from the kick panels to the other side of the truck, but I might look at what you have there.
The top of the truck does sound alot better, and it kinda seems the words are coming from the top already.
uochronos on 01/8/2004 18:58:13
i personaly have the tweets in the corners of the winshield and have them pointing across the truck... as in the passenger side tweeter is pointed at the driver and vise versa. It sounds really great way better then when it was in the doors and a little better then when i had them pointing at the clossest person.
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